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  2. General 71-73 Discussion

    1. 71-73 Mustang Talk

      General 71-73 Mustang topics. Please use the tech forums below for specific topics.

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    2. Individual Project Build Threads

      This is the place to put your Project Build and/or your ongoing blog.

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    3. Glamor Shots

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    4. Your Mustang Walk Around

      Forum members simply using their digital smart phones or cameras to take a video of their Mustangs while slowly walking around the car. It doesn't have to be a flashy video production as such - just shoot the video as you walk around your Mustang in a 360 degree circle. If you get background wind or other noises, or if the video is a bit shaky, who cares. Let's see what'cha got!

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      This forum is for Concours d'Elégance (French for 'competition of elegance') general discussions. Please use the proper sub forums for specific discussions.

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      Post your Marti reports here to be analyzed and discussed.  Remember to also upload your Marti Report into "My Marti Report" on your profile page!

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  3. Tech Forums

    1. Engine, Transmission, Drive Line, Etc

      All topics concerning the engine, drive train, transmission, rear diffs and general performance.

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    2. Exterior, Body, Chassis & Paint

      All things chassis, rust repair, sheet metal replacement, body work and paint.

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    3. Interior, Seats, Door Panels, Trunk, Glass, etc

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    4. Suspension, Handling, Brakes, Wheels and Tires

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    5. Electrical, Lighting & Electronics

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    6. Presentation, Polishing & Detailing

      Topics about washing, cleaning, waxing, etc..for interior and exterior

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    7. General Maintenance and Repair

      Discussion of maintenance and repair of your 71-73 Mustang. Please be sure to include as much information as possible when posting a question! Use this forum for fast answers!

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  5. Odds & Ends

    1. Shop Talk

      Discuss your garage/shop, tools, tool boxes, lifts, rotisseries and various other aspects of Mustang restoration and maintaining

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    2. Off Topic Discussions

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    4. The Q & A Forum

      Do you have a simple question that doesn't fit in any of the other forums?  Ask it here and see if you can "Stump the Chumps!"  Answers can be voted up by other members until the best answer is at the top!  Please try to keep more complex questions and posts in the proper forums.

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    6. Gone But Not Forgotten

      This forum is to pay tribute to members who have been called home. In memory of "Totaled".

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    7. Racing

      Discussions about race track adventures, drag racing, auto cross and burn out derbies! (No street racing stories, please!) You can also discuss your car set up and 1/4 mile times here.

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    8. Other Years of Mustangs

      Topics about all other years of Ford Mustangs. (Put the model year in the subject line).

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    9. Other Vehicles

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  • Latest Topics

  • Latest Posts

    • Very interesting notes, I am comparing efficiency from factory box. For 1,000$ old air sells "front end" kit, but utilizes stock box internals, stage II includes upgraded evap, full system from c.a.a. or old air products 1600$ but new box.     Thank you for the reach out, I have rebuilt entire dash a/c box, flushed out evap/core, ect.  I think of going with original air firewall forward upgrade kit.
    • I would start by using races/bearings of good hard metal quality. Timken for instance. Affordable and reliable. Well lubricated there should be no noticeable wear when torqued first time to specs for thousands of miles. Even for wider tires. Tho, during first 100 miles it would make sense to check if there is no play. Also make sure you use new hardware for the retainer. They are cheap. Also and I've seen it on my 71, make sure you have the dust cover on that is ment to keep the grease. Personally if a "wobble" would be present after more than 500 miles since install, I would consider change them again asap as they have likely created some lows into the race that will fail sooner than you want, even if re-torquing fixes for now.
    • Any chance you could send a link to the part?
    • I would have kept it as a reminder about buying stuff (or not) from S.D. When you have a frustrating day, it would have been a good target for blows from the big hammer.
    • I would check the rod that goes from the pedal to the z-bar. The end that rides in the Z-bar has a little plastic bushing that wears out and then the same thing happens. The link and bushings aren't too expensive and easy enough to change at the same time...
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  • Recent Status Updates

    • 72 Green Machine  »  Nance

      Is your Urethane bumper still available?
      · 2 replies
    • SVO2SCJ  »  Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

      Hi
      Well I know there is a forum for this and that community reputation counts THUMBS UP!!  But after spending time with David at Ford Carlisle I wanted to take the same time to write here about him!!    We know he bleeds Ford blue and has protected his car, spending his money for all the see.   When together he is both an ambassador for our marque and truly interested in the people he meets!    We talked, walked together and he introduced me to other cars and people.     We are often so busy or focused on our own stuff that we fail to be like David!    I wanted to thank him for his time and interest and wanted to say it publicly.  SVO Mark 
      · 1 reply
    • Tommyt

      Time to catch up on my 71 Mach 351-c 2v. I removed the edlebrock manifold and carb went back to factory intake with 2 barrel Holley. 
          I installed a cam and lifters first time for me. Cam is rated idle to 4000 on the specs. I was just trying for something close to a factory cam. Hope I got it.
           Cutting ahead still was having problem with going dead. Decided to install the Petronix and coil. The magnetic pickup would not fit. Petronix cs said aftermarket lobe to big. Got an autolite from npd car runs great with that dizzy. Either cam made the aftermarket bad or wrong dizzy.
          I still ain’t there yet. I can drive everywhere as long as I run under 70 mph. When I go fast really mash the gas she dies. I’ve adjusted float started high and went down till I now flip on the electric pump and that lets me keep going.
         Going to bring float back up a little I’m right there. Also the two idle screws function correctly as in kill the engine.
          Any ideas the gas is good the electric good new dizzy,regulator, capacitor, alternator isn’t new reads correct.
          Can the bottom of the engine be worn causing this? What about the heads can they do this? Thanks in advance
      ps right knee replacement Monday in case I don’t get back soon.
       



      · 2 replies
    • Manu Mach1  »  Q1SVT

      Hello, thank you for your post. I am on my first rebuilding engine process, so about technical things I am not the best. But I will use my stock heads, valves I have are from Alex's parts.
      Tomorrow I need to bring heads to the machinist cause not enough clearence between stem valves and new guides.
      · 0 replies
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