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Carlisle Ford Nationals
tony-muscle posted a topic in Anyone want to meet up?,
I am still debating if I will make the trip there. Who all are planning on attending? I know David will be exhibiting his car. This year is the special for our 71-73 years so it is very tempting. It would be a 12 hour drive for me, which is doable. I think I can drive 10+ hours the first day to somewhere east of Pittsburg and then arrive the next morning.
https://www.carlisleevents.com/events/events-detail/index?id=ford+nationals
There are a lot of events going on over the weekends. Which ones are a must to attend?-
- 19 replies
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Sheet Metal for sale
kcmash posted a topic in Exterior, Body, Chassis & Paint,
I have various sheet metal I need to move now that the project is nearly complete.
Left and Right Doors. Left is very solid right is in need of some work
71/72 Front Fenders -
- 1 Matched pair, have been dipped, need some dent removal bodywork near the headlight.
- 1 Right side fender with the headlamp box weldment removed. Clean piece of sheet metal.
- Original plain rear valance(no exhaust cutouts) . Lower retaining tabs missing. Straight solid piece otherwise.
All parts located in the Kansas City area. Not sure how to ship the doors or Fenders, but they need a new home.
kcmash
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Winter Raffle 2020!
RocketFoot posted a topic in Site News,
Hey everyone! We have a special prize to give away for the 2020 Winter Raffle! It is a custom made Mustang Tri-Bar logo trophy! It is 1 of 10 that we had made for a fund raiser a while back. This one was graciously donated back to the forum by an anonymous supporter for the raffle!! Made from multi layered steel and hand painted with translucent pearl paint, it sits about 12 inches tall and looks great displayed in a curio with your die-cast Mustangs or display it on your desk or wall shelf! It is a great conversation starter and stunning reflection of your Mustang pride!
Raffle tickets are just $5 each or 5 for $20!
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100% of all proceeds benefit 7173Mustangs.com forum operating costs including server fees, domain fees and software licenses.
The winner will be drawn randomly from all entries on November 7th, 2020
A BIG thank you to our anonymous donor for making this raffle possible!-
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By Bentworker · Posted
I have a vacuum advance, not sure if I should use it or lock it out. Idle quality at 860 RPM seems fair, when I place the car into gear it drops a bit but is stable. As far as vacuum reads go - I have no idea what it is at idle. I'm going to put a vacuum gage on it this weekend and see what I come up with as I am fooling with. Wild guess is about 7" -
When I got my car, it was in a field with everything under the hood gone. I guess you could say the last guy who had it did all the vacuum delete for me. I put the car together 1 piece at a time. Crate 351 long block, edlebrock intake, holley carb, C4 transmission I had kicking around. As far as vacuum goes, I have a fitting in the intake manifold running the large hose directly to the power brake booster. Aftermarket carbs have one or more places to connect to pull vacuum from manifold or ported. Its a 4 hour conversation if you want to run your distributor from ported or manifold vacuum. There are guys who feel strongly both ways. And you can tune a car and get good performance no matter which strategy you go with. Whichever one you choose, plug the hose from your distributor to that port on the carb. The distributor I used has the retard port on it and I just left that capped. On our automatic transmissions, there's a vacuum line going to the transmission modulator. It needs to be connected to full manifold vacuum. You can tee it in to your distributor line if that one is also using manifold vacuum and you dont have any more ports on the carb. Then I have the big port on the back of the carb running to the PCV fitting on one valve cover. Other valve cover is pulling filtered air from the air cleaner. My car does not have the heater hooked up. I'll be using an aftermarket AC, so I dont think those vacuum lines will be necessary. My ram air kit is not installed. When I do put it on, I reckon it'll need manifold vacuum, so I'll tee off an existing line if I don't have a free port. -
By Bentworker · Posted
When your wheels are straight what is the position of the pins on your rag joint? Are they at 12 and 6 O'clock? -
By mach71351c · Posted
Thanks, it was like Christmas! The weather is no different. -
Interesting. I recently did my radiator support and didn't even think to use my HF spot welder. I have the 110 version, still unopened in the box from a year ago. I keep forgetting I have it. I picked up a bottle of gas and use the HF mig/tig/stick welder. I did the ol' drill, weld, grind, paint routine. It came out pretty good. Does the spot welder burn through the paint or do you need to grind anything to bare metal first? And do you need any special arms or contact points for it?
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SVO2SCJ » Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs
Hi· 1 reply
Well I know there is a forum for this and that community reputation counts THUMBS UP!! But after spending time with David at Ford Carlisle I wanted to take the same time to write here about him!! We know he bleeds Ford blue and has protected his car, spending his money for all the see. When together he is both an ambassador for our marque and truly interested in the people he meets! We talked, walked together and he introduced me to other cars and people. We are often so busy or focused on our own stuff that we fail to be like David! I wanted to thank him for his time and interest and wanted to say it publicly. SVO Mark
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Time to catch up on my 71 Mach 351-c 2v. I removed the edlebrock manifold and carb went back to factory intake with 2 barrel Holley.· 1 reply
I installed a cam and lifters first time for me. Cam is rated idle to 4000 on the specs. I was just trying for something close to a factory cam. Hope I got it.
Cutting ahead still was having problem with going dead. Decided to install the Petronix and coil. The magnetic pickup would not fit. Petronix cs said aftermarket lobe to big. Got an autolite from npd car runs great with that dizzy. Either cam made the aftermarket bad or wrong dizzy.
I still ain’t there yet. I can drive everywhere as long as I run under 70 mph. When I go fast really mash the gas she dies. I’ve adjusted float started high and went down till I now flip on the electric pump and that lets me keep going.
Going to bring float back up a little I’m right there. Also the two idle screws function correctly as in kill the engine.
Any ideas the gas is good the electric good new dizzy,regulator, capacitor, alternator isn’t new reads correct.
Can the bottom of the engine be worn causing this? What about the heads can they do this? Thanks in advance
ps right knee replacement Monday in case I don’t get back soon.
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Hello, thank you for your post. I am on my first rebuilding engine process, so about technical things I am not the best. But I will use my stock heads, valves I have are from Alex's parts.· 0 replies
Tomorrow I need to bring heads to the machinist cause not enough clearence between stem valves and new guides.
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Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs » 72Oly
Looks like you are new to forum. Go post and introduction and tell about your car.· 0 replies
What you willing to spend on a tilt column? If you do buy one be sure you get everything you will never find the missing pieces. The forged pieces on the rag joint are different, the plate at the floor is different and never buy one with anything broken parts are scarce.
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