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  2. General 71-73 Discussion

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  3. Tech Forums

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    2. Exterior, Body, Chassis & Paint

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    3. Interior, Seats, Door Panels, Trunk, Glass, etc

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    6. Presentation, Polishing & Detailing

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    7. General Maintenance and Repair

      Discussion of maintenance and repair of your 71-73 Mustang. Please be sure to include as much information as possible when posting a question! Use this forum for fast answers!

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  5. Odds & Ends

    1. Shop Talk

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    5. Gone But Not Forgotten

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    7. Other Years of Mustangs

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  • Latest Topics

  • Latest Posts

    • I made 100% templates and cut them out from material bought on-line. Sorry don't remember the source but it was a 99% match to OEM. Chuck
    • Glad you like the SCE products. They also come in various thickness for custom builds/needs. I hope all goes well. Let us know. Chuck
    • So things I've learned.... 1) do not use coppercoat or any additional sealants when using newer Fel-pro head gaskets with permatorque coating. It caused leaks between almost all my cylinders in less than a year.  2) Fel-pro Printo-seal intake manifold gaskets SUCK.  The seal around 3 out of my 8 intake ports failed. Each failure was due to a split along that blue "seal." This is an obvious weak spot.  I have no idea why they would have failed.  3) Mr Gasket intake manifold gaskets aren't that great.  Mine came out of the package with tears and they were essentially brittle cardboard.  SCE gaskets are significantly higher in quality, really glad i ordered them, thanks Chuck!    Hopefully will be firing her up today. Tuned the carb back to stock. Look forward to seeing if all my previous issues are resolved. 
    • Stanglover,                   I hear ya. Obviously, there is no heat channel in this manifold, like the factory manifolds have under the carb base gasket, so direct heat is minimized. Here, in the shop, when we have a set of heads requiring the exhaust crossover blocked for competition porting, we will either weld the crossover port close behind the exhaust bowls, or we sometimes use a copper block-off plate at the intake manifold surface, and pour molten aluminum,  melted down from a forged piston, to completely fill the cavity all the way through into the exhaust bowl, where it's shaped to the bowl shape. Another method for street driving, is to use the steel "restrictor" plates that come in many small block Chevrolet gasket sets. these plates have a small 1/8th inch hole in them. Placed in both sides of the intake they allow some heat to help atomize the intake charge, without excessive heat being used. In reality, my project will not be a competition engine, I don't use it as such. Being that this car gets driven everyday, cold morning starting and running is important to me. I may, or may not, block the crossover completely....we'll see as the engine project progresses. You mentioned that your car had fuel boil-off, and had difficult hot starting.  Years ago when I first bought this car, and started towing with it, I experienced hard hot starting after just pulling a long hill with the boat behind. I was pulling the hill like a Banshee, so you know the exhausts were red hot, when my wife needed a potty stop. We pulled off in a truck stop, and the car wouldn't start, not even with a jump from the dragboat's battery. I just had to wait a while to let the starter cool.   The fix, one that remains on the car to this day, is a heat blanket wrapped around the starter. I think I got it from Summitt, and it was pretty inexpensive. I've never had any hot start issues ever again, not even carb boil-over, my car even has A/C, but doesn't overheat . 
    • I have used this on different projects. You can pick your style and color to do the doors, dash trim and horn to match. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wood-Grain-Textured-Vinyl-Wrap-Sticker-Decal-Self-adhesive-Car-Internal-Stickers/264060898091?var=563601231031&hash=item3d7b418b2b:g:ZD4AAOSwnCdb~CPX    
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    • B229218  »  Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

      Do our cars use a horn relay like earlier models?
      · 1 reply
    • Terry

      Hi All just another update from Aus,
      Mustang is progressing well, I have spent many hours on the end of my grinder with wire wheels cleaning up the engine bay and underside, for others thinking of doing this, effective but dangerous with wires flying off the wheel, make sure you wear a  face shield.
      cleaned it up then sanded With 120 grit, high pressure washed with degreaser then detergent, then wax and cleaned many times.
      then painted with 2k etch primer, next 2k high fill, then Satin black.
      I found one bit of rust which I cut out and repaired one the rear quarter lucky was only the one bit in the car.
      im starting on the boot/trunk next I’ve noticed it had a rear end collision at some point  and will need a lot of work to do it properly
      until next time.

      · 0 replies
    • Idaho Chris  »  EdM

      Ed- I am located east of the Moyie Bridge just off of Rt 2.  We must be very close neighbors. You've done a number of things to your car that I would sure like to talk with you about as I get started with mine. 
      Might you be willing to swap contact information?
      · 0 replies
    • Joe Stang

      I'm back from retirement and sorta in retirement too. brand new 6k Build had one lobe on new cam go poo poo. Wife is now pissed motor 5 is now .40over JE Pistons .$5k in a blink . The world is ending but please send .40rod and main bearings so I can complete assembly of new engine . Yes I know what Joe Gibbs is NOW Zink your new engine break in pal. So yah I gotta reassemble 72ho :4bolt main service block .  
      · 0 replies
    • kevken1959  »  HKramer

      Hi Harry. Can you please tell me the exact color code you used for your brown? I love it! I have a medium brown metallic car I need to repaint and I really don't like the factory shade, but I do like the shade on your car. I'm thinking your car is painted in a shade of brown that is different from the factory shade, but I could be wrong. It looks a little darker to me. Thanks, Kevin.
      · 0 replies
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