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  2. Big hammer works every time (well, almost).
  3. Everything is new: points, plugs condenser, wires, cap and rotor, accelerator pump works, filter is clear, gas flow good out of the fuel line, and it still won't start after it sits a while. Last week I put a set of $20 Echlin (sp?) points because I was using my old points at the time for troubleshooting. For the record, it ran good temporarily with the old points during troubleshooting too whenever it decided to cooperate. After I installed and adjusted the new points, I started it immediately and it ran great for about 2-3 minutes, then died, like it was running out of gas. I was able to get it restarted and quickly started revving the motor at the carb manually when it would start to die. I had to do this several times until it idled ok on it's own. I would then rev it at high rpms and let it settle back down to idle, and "rinse and repeat" several times. It idled that day for about a half hour with no problems, even after shutting it off and restarting it. Fast forward to just now, where I just went out and tried starting it and the same thing, popping and farting and no start. I probably flooded it trying to start it this time, I plan on bypassing the tank tomorrow and running good gas from a line directly into the pump, although I'm getting a feeling it's a problem somewhere in the carb. I have been looking at a new motor craft 2100 anyway because that's what I have in there now. I'm pretty sure it's a fuel problem, either bad fuel (doubtful, because it does run good when it finally starts), or something in the carb that, after the car sits a while, decides to not function.........IDEAS???????
  4. Never mind, just needed a little persuasion.
  5. Today
  6. How is this suppose to secure to the square hole? The tabs don't have any notch to hold it in.
  7. You cannot connect both the tachometer and the relay to the coil, it sounds like the relay is being self energized. Like Steve said, use the relay to supply voltage to the module, not the coil. If you want to keep the 0.6 ohm coil you'll need to get the MSD Tachometer adapter (Part No. 8920) and disconnect the factory wire from the positive side of the coil, connect it to the relay and then use the MSD adapter to provide the pulses for the tachometer. Or, the cleanest way would be to get Rocketman (a site supporter and advertiser) to convert your tachometer to a 3-wire.
  8. I have shorty headers and can drop the box out the bottom. For 1sostatic…
  9. I bled the brakes. I used the vacuum method. All in all I fed about a quart of DOT 3 into the system. I will use the two person pedal method to confirm all the air is out before driving the car. Now with brakes bled and the heater core replaced, I put the strut braces back in place, ran new vacuum hoses and finished up the engine bay. Ha! I've been looking all over for my missing deep 11/16" socket, and after posting up this photo I notice it is sitting on the washer fluid bottle. Mystery solved!
  10. Keep the pink wire connected from the tach to the coil and use a 1.5 ohm Ignitor coil. To low of an ohm coil will damage the tach. Use the relay to supply the run-only 12v to the Pertronix module in the dizzy.
  11. The words inept, self-serving, and corrupt come to mind. Chuck
  12. I'd examine your relay you are using to supply 12V to the ignitor: it should be RUN-only and that should shut off both the engine and the tach should stop as well.
  13. It's some kind of stop located at the front edge. Not sure what it's called or where to find replacement.
  14. There is guy on Minneapolis Craigslist with a fairly used set of the 1971 Ford shop manuals, all 5 for $30. But, you'll want the right set for your year due to changes in the 1973. As said, the Haynes is okay for reference, but the Haynes/Chiltons/etc. leave out a lot of information.
  15. Adding to the above post, I forgot to add the 17.5:1 fixed ratio box tags generally used on non Mach 1's SPA-S or U or SPA-AD or AF after 1/2/73. Manual box tags; SMA-R = 22:1 1971, SMA-T =24:1 1972/73 or SMA-AC or AE >1/2/73
  16. I'd take two can of r12.
  17. Jason- I have a set of the original Ford Shop Manuals that I bought direct from Ford back in 1975. They came in a five volume set and I use them most every day I work on the car. I highly recommend them. It looks like NPD sells a repro: https://www.npdlink.com/product/shop-manual-printed-1973-ford-mercury-car/138046?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshop%2Bmanual%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1973&year=1973 If the above repro is anything like the repro I recently bought from them for the 1970 model year, the repro is just as the original but they combine volumes into a couple of bindings instead of separate books for each volume. The separate bindings are easier to lay out flat on a workbench but other than that the repros are just like the originals. Worth the $ if you are planning to get serious!
  18. My car is a 73 Mach 1 with a 351C. Just installed a Pertronix Ignitor 2 conversion in my Autolite distributor. Also put in Ignitor 2 coil (0.6 Ohm) with relay to supply 12 V to it. If I leave the tach wire connected to the coil, the engine won't shut off. How can I use my tach without causing this problem? Thanks!
  19. That caught me out with my Green one -- and this is the problem when a previous owner had also been dicking about with the wiring -- I ordered new and what I got was 2 prong... I tried to install to drivers side and found 3x wires. one terminated out by previous owner... I learned the "don't assume you're working with originality" lesson here.
  20. The base configuration has a 3 pin door jamb switch on the driver's side and a 2 pin on the passenger side. However, with the convenience harness as an option, the passenger side door jamb connector plugs into the convenience harness pigtail and a 3 pin actually goes to the door jamb to allow the seat back release to occur when the passenger door opens. The courtesy lights work when either the driver or passenger side doors open allowing current to flow from the green/yellow wire at the door jamb to the black/blue wires, which actually light the lamps.
  21. My drivers side courtesy light switch has been broken for years, and I figured it should be a pretty simple fix to attempt. The actual switch is broken, the button will not pop out when the door is open, it stays permanently in the closed position. I ordered new switches and they physically work great, but electrically something is wrong and I have no idea where to begin to fix it. I tried installing the new drivers side courtesy light switch tonight to no avail…it is my understanding that the drivers side switch should have a 2 prong plug, and the passengers side should have a 3 prong plug…I seem to have 3 prongs on both of my plugs, and they appear to work intermittently depending on how you hold the wiring. Is this a grounding issue? Did someone incorrectly rewire this car at some point? My drivers side switch has 3 wires going to it, while my passengers side has 5. Now I’m no electrician, and I don’t really know how to read an electrical diagram. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be going on here? IMG_7881.MOV
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