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  2. They are 3D printed. Don't know the quality of the product compared to the molded ones. I would think since most 3D printers use either ABS or PLA filament that these would be decent. Don't know if the would would pass for concours correct but they are an alternative to the ones on ebay. The $255 is for the ones on ebay. There is a Boss facebook group that got these printed. I think it is one of their members that is doing it but I could be wrong.
  3. That is a nice looking repair job! To the OP, I've found that the SEM paints seem to be a good color match. It was anyway, for the white interior that I have. You may want to use their vinyl prep before painting.
  4. FWIW, the eBay versions don't looks 3D printed to me (albeit, I'm no expert here). The poster is also claiming: Note: I have no relationship to the eBay poster and am NOT pimping/advocating for their product. I'm just providing details I find for betterment of our community.
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  6. I'm wondering if those are 3D printed? Looking at the website, it looks like they do do 3D printing. If so how good they are is dependent on the material used. Also, where does the $255.00 come from? They show as (rounded) 115 and 102 Canadian. Going to the bottom of the page, switched to US dollars, they are 90 and 80 or 170 US. That's a rough exchange of 22%. I'm not sure what the actual exchange rate is, but I think it's a bit on the low side. Buyer beware! Good info as always Steve, Thanks.
  7. Thanks @secluff ! Having an early-ish '71, I always appreciate whenever anyone shares the historical significance, especially considering that after 50 years there are fewer and fewer of us that remember any of these details.
  8. That's a slick idea! Thanks for sharing. I have no valves or plenum in mine so when it rains the engine gets very wet.
  9. Very nice work! The car is going to be better than new when you're done.
  10. I get what you mean about the HOA, some neighbors have their nose so far up your ass they can see daylight. I lived in a condo for a while and had an old retired broad across the street that took to bitching about my garage activities as a hobby. BTW, I do like the wimbledon white even though it's not white! LOL!!
  11. Thanks for the tip! As of right now there is no wiring in the engine compartment but I do have brake lines and other small components.
  12. Strength is also as much about the design of the structure as the material. Most if not all racing sanctions will sonic check the tubing thickness based on the material used. To introduce a new material and get sanctioning bodies to accept it may be a challenge too. That said, I've seen some very scary stuff at the track. I may not be smart enough to be scared but I don't like the look of a roll bar in a convertible. Not in mine anyway.
  13. Something like this for the metric bending is what we use https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/en/MS-01-179.pdf
  14. You can pay someone to vinyl wrap them. What I did was sand the area down for prep and added a few layers of Jb Weld and then sand it until it’s smooth. Then ordered paint from cjpony that matched and painted it. Looks good as new imo.
  15. Those small plastic pieces at the upper rear of the fender Ford called a "Front Fender Filler". They were production installed until 6/1/71 on the '71 Mustang and Cougar, after that date they were no longer used. Good used ones can be a difficult find since a lot of them have deteriorated over time, and were not installed for the entire '71 production run. Part number for the right side is D1ZZ-16570-A (ID# D1ZB-16570-AA,AB,AE) Left side D1ZZ-16571-A (ID# D1ZB-16571-AA,AB,AE). As you can see there were three suffix number changes on the engineering number but the part number never changed. For
  16. @Spike Morelli the only problem I have with drum brakes is when they get wet. We had an old IHC Travelall when I was a kid. Whenever it would rain and we hit a puddle, water would get into the drums and make it impossible to stop for a light.
  17. Overdue update here. Most of you saw this in my other thread where I whined about the color not being my favorite. It’s growing on me. Since the last update here is what is done: Rear quarters, roof, and rear body panel block sanded Door jambs and door shells sanded and seam sealed Quarters, roof, and rear body re-primered Door jambs and door shells painted Wimbledon White Doors reinstalled Bitched and moaned about Wimbledon White Fenders reinstalled to maintain hood alignment Hood removed, topside sanded and primered Fender and quarte
  18. One might consider larger rear drum brakes, as opposed to the disc swap, like Shelby American did on their GT-350 race cars. Shelby American also went with sintered metallic linings to resist fade. Larger rear drum brakes make some sense to me, as I've always known that there is more frictional area with drums over discs, and as an example, semi-trucks have utilized drums on their tractors and trailers for so many years, and they really have to stop some weight and big rolling stock. I'm sure that discs are the best way to go always, in the front, but possibly there is a van or station wago
  19. You'd have to buy a f-ton of tubing to get someone to make you a special size. I can't believe that tube bending equipment suppliers are not supporting metric sizes, it's not 1955 any more. You can order mandrels, dies and wipers in any size you need, as long as the equipment supports it and it'll form properly. If you're going to form these components, you're running the tubing through a mandrel bender, and there are far more tube forming equipment manufacturers in "metric" countries than there are in the US. The market will never support anything more costly than 4130 in any volu
  20. With the B-pillar in place and secure, it's time to turn to to the inner and outer wheelhouses and quarter panel. With the quarter panel laid outside down, I put the outer wheelhouse in place, clamping it to the wheel well opening. It took some muscle to squeeze get it clamped together, but it came together nicely. I then did the same to the wheelhouses, clamping the inner and outer wheelhouse together. Once I was convinced that they would fit together, I got to work cutting out the inner wheel house. I drilled/ground the welds. I cut along the lower edge, just above the trunk floor
  21. So mine is a 72, it’s an early 72, most of the parts are 71 parts numbers, from what I’ve been able to see. Not sure if that’s common some previous owner hacked the panels for the 4x6 speakers mounted in the panels. I put new ones in the doors. And now want to cut the panel hole to make it appear more factory. I guess the point I’m trying to make is as long as they look factory I’m good. Message me with what you have
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