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  3. Chuck, I have not torn the old engine down yet, it’s still in the car for now. I did run a bore scope into #6 to see the cylinder wall had failed. Unsure if that is the cause or the result. I talked with some local guys here who own Classic Fords and they gave me the name of this shop I went to. I guess the do a lot of corvette restoration and engine work locally. Anyway, they said they were going to clean it and give it a check over for main journal wear, taper, cracks, warping, etc. and call me before doing any work. They were the ones that told me I needed to go to .030 over because that is what’s available today. They said the .010 are not available any more. My web research agrees. I am listening to this team and wondering if I should possibly move to another shop. I picked this one because I have testimony from the Ford guys that used them and they are happy with the results. It’s hard to discount that recommendation. For oil pump I want to stick with standard volume based on my problem earlier this year. For intake, you stated the stock 4v intake is terrible, I assume that statement is based on poor intake velocity based on the runners. I do have an Edelbrock Performer II intake laying around, but don’t know if that is any better. I want to look as stock as possible(I don’t mind the aluminum intake look) and definitely want to be able to keep the original Ram air system on the car. So what are you suggesting for a better intake.? As for engine assembly, I have the skill there. I just don’t have the hot rod brain to know all the little upgrades that will let the beast breathe and effortlessly stretch its legs. Before the engine failed I was thinking I needed to go up in carb size as the power felt a little inconsistent at highway speed. I currently have a Holley 670 ultra. I hear I should be doing a 750. For a cam in the failed engine I was using the SVO M6250-A341 , .510/.536 duration 292/302. I am afraid to harvest that from a failed engine, but it seemed like a fun running cam considering I never really got to drive the car much. kcmash
  4. In my green Sportsroof, I made a mistake and placed new Monroe Shocks....these had me bottoming out at the front - they also turned my 71 into a waterbed I re-loaded with KYB - a bit more expensive ... but definitely a better ride at rear I put gas adjustable to raise the rear 1"
  5. I have to go help someone with painting their home. DO NOT USE THE FOAM TAPE. NPD even states in their catalog not to use it. It does not work on window or roof rail. Ford did not have time on the line to hammer and dolly the window openings flat. So they put the least expensive, cleanest possible solution in but not the best for sure. REMEMBER you have to do the headliner first. You should go over the window opening and hammer and dolly and grind any raged areas smooth. Of course paint as needed. Always test fit your trim before putting in the window and seal. Much easier to put on and take off when you can see the clips. Should only take one thumb to push in place if more something is wrong. Never hammer in place something is wrong. There is a special hook too to pull the corners of the rubber into place you can get from any body shop supply house I use Auto Body Toolmart go to their web site. Also use the correct non hardening 3-M sealer made for rubber seals. It is called Bedding & Glazing and the 3-M # is 08509 here is a link to a supplier. https://www.jbtools.com/3m-08509-auto-bedding-and-glazing-compound-cartridge-1-10-gallon/?wi=off&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzZa9yNaa8wIVE7SzCh1gwwTkEAQYAiABEgKxvPD_BwE I cut the smallest opening I can in the tube. I put a tiny bead in the channel for the glass. Then a tiny bit along the bottom of the opening for the glass and spread out with finger. Then you put your cord in the rubber and have someone help you set the bottom of the rubber and glass over the bottom lip in the opening. Then someone gets into the car and pulls while the other massages the corners in. NEVER USE METAL TOOLS EXCEPT FOR THE HOOK MADE FOR THE INSTALL. If you use anything use plastic trim tools or wooden dowels ground to a wedge. With the glass in then you have your helper take a plastic trim tool and lift the edge of the rubber seal from the outside and put a tiny amount of the Bedding between rubber and window opening. NEVER FILL THE CHANNEL LIKE CJ PONEY SAYS TO DO IN THEIR INSTALL VIDEO. I would then put in the sun and let it settle in place pushing down all the way around. Put a small piece of tape where each window clip is and lay the trim in place and push down lightly to clip. Should never leak ever. Some go around the opening with wide masking tape to protect while working there up to you. A couple of the lifting suction cups helps a lot but not required.
  6. Try it again, I just tested this one, and it worked. How to install a rear window on a 71-73 fastback - Interior, Seats, Door Panels, Trunk, Glass, etc - 7173Mustangs.com
  7. Does anyone know how to find the tutorial as the link no longer works and I can’t seem to find it in the tutorials. thanks!
  8. Well done. The lines on that car are awesome! Great job so far!!
  9. KC, I guess I missed what actually failed on the old engine. It doesn't matter now, but I'm just curious. Picking the right machine shop is the most important part of any build. Did they tell you how much bore wear/taper there was? Do they have a proper deck plate? Can they accurately measure/adjust deck height (critical in determining piston pin location)? Assuming they can do all of that and more, you can move on to parts selection. Unless the budget is very tight, I'd opt for forged pistons and float the pins. Be very careful about selecting a piston with an appropriate pin location (compression distance). Get this wrong and the piston will be too far down the bore at DTC, not enough compression. Or, pistons too far above the deck at TDC to be used/too much compression. I can recommend Mahle pistons and rings for an off the shelf piston. I can also recommend Auto Tech/Race Tech pistons if you need to tailor pin locations or want specific valve relief CCs, dish volumes, ring thickness, gas porting, etc. There are real advantages in using the newer ring technologies (thinner rings and better metallurgy) now available and proven. Randy Gillis at Auto Tech is easy to work with and very knowledgeable about 351C and all Ford engines. They will make most changes at no extra charge. Once you have enough information, use the Diamond Pistons compression calculator to figure out static and dynamic compressions. Dynamic compression is not a "Be all end all" number, but it is an indicator of resistance to detonation. I agree with Boilermaster, 7.9-8.1 dynamic is a good number for pump premium gas. Have the rods magna-fluxed and checked for Center to Center distance and roundness. At a minimum replace the rod bolt nuts with quality aftermarket nuts (known failure item). Make sure the flywheel and damper are good and the outer ring has not moved BEFORE everything is balanced. Have them measure and set bearing clearances. When the clearances are known then decide on wether or not a high volume oil pump is advisable. An adjustable timing set makes degreeing the cam a LOT easier. If you are not set up to degree the cam, have them do that. Given what you have said about the cam, both Comp and Lunati make an improved version of the B351 cam with hydraulic lifters. If you want something closer to optimum, Contact Brent at Lykins Motorsports in Kentucky. When the cam and lifter are in, rotate the engine and watch the lifters. If they don't rotate, there is a problem with cam taper or lifter radius. Getting valve train geometry right is important, it is easier with adjustable rocker arms. No matter what pushrod lengths are called for, a minimum wall thickness of .080 should be specified (you wouldn't believe how much thin wall pushrods flex). Do all you can to make sure the engine starts quickly, use break in oil, and follow break-in procedures, don't just let it idle at 2000 RPM for 20 minute, vary the rpm periodically. Assuming the stock valves have been replaced have them check the guide clearances and do a 3 or 5 angle valve job if needed. Use appropriate spring pressures and installed spring heights for the cam selected. The D0AE-L intake is not a terrible intake, a 1/2 or 1 inch spacer does help out above 5000RPM. The block should be magna-fluxed, lifter bores checked, and the cylinder bores should be sonic-tested before any machine work begins to make sure the block is usable. If the budget permits, an extra capacity oil pan is always a good idea. As for assembly, it depends on the tools, experience, and confidence you have. The plus side to the machine shop assembling the engine/ short block is if something is not right they can't blame it on you. It can be done with less effort, time, and expense using stock or less expensive parts. It all depends on what you want and what the budget will support. DO NOT buy a engine rebuild "kit" none of them contain high quality components for use in anything other than a grocery getter engine, if that. I hope all goes well with the new build and you are back on the road soon. Chuck
  10. Having just done a 351C stock stroke build and had the flat tappet cam fail - here's my suggestions..... Buy a roller cam, or look for old stock lifters from a reputable company - TRW, Perfect Circle, Speed Pro etc. The new lifters I received from a *very* reputable cam grinder were garbage. Talk to a custom cam grinder that understands Clevelands, such as Lykins Motorsports or Bullet. Tell them your goals and setup, they'll hook you up right. I ran the classic Motorsport 214/224 - .510"/.536" hydraulic cam in a car with a 4 speed and 3.00 gear without issues. 4V Clevelands like a dual pattern cam with more exhaust duration. If I were going to use an off the shelf grind, it would be one of the Lunati Voodoo units. Use a flat top piston with the proper compression height - Keith Black hypers, Wiseco or RaceTec. This will save money on zero decking the engine. TRW forged have a lower compression height, are heavy and require extra machine work. With the closed chamber heads and proper quench height setup, premium fuel is not a problem. The stock multigroove valves, springs, keepers and retainers are junk, throw them in the trash. Replace with quality Ferrea or Manley single groove valves, with the balance of parts to match the cam. Don't bother with the studs and guidplates machine work. The Crane stud conversion or Scorpion adjustable will be just fine. Replace the rod *nuts* with ARP hardware. The stock rod bolts are plenty strong. A couple links to some good build info https://www.corral.net/threads/budget-351c-rebuild-and-dyno-test.2092114/ https://pantera.infopop.cc/topic/engine-build-and-dyno-results Pics below are from one of the FB 351C groups, impressive numbers for a fairly stock build.
  11. Thanks for the dialogue. My biggest problem here Is restoration burnout. I finally got this SOB on the road, then I lose the engine. so I don,t know how to state what I am looking for. Performance somewhere between an M code and a Boss351 will likely be fine for me. Reliability is important. I use the BP premium fuel in this car. The block has never been serviced, this is the first tear down since the car rolled off the line. so I am thinking this should be a pretty easy build. I don’t have a Horsepower target, I don’t have a 1/4 mile target, I just want a little hotter performance than stock. What are those simple upgrades to the 4 v Cleveland that Ford should have done to make it a little more fun? Or is fresh M code performance the way to go? kcmash
  12. Are you planning on using them on a white interior and if so how close is the color or do you think you’ll need to paint them?
  13. There were quite a few 429s built early October! Mine was built about the same time as yours. Looks like a great car. Any pictures?
  14. To cure my 1971 Mach 1 SCJ from bottoming out so easily, I removed the leaf springs and installed a new set of springs, bushings, and bolts from Eaton Springs in Detroit. The car does ride a bit stiffer, but still seems to bottom out in rear way too easily. New shocks installed a year or so ago. Wondering if these ponies require extra heavy duty shocks in rear. What experience have you had?
  15. If it were fuel delivery I should see a lean condition in the AFR logs. Right now I don't see any lean condition. It was actually running too rich at around 11.9 at 6,000. Now I have it set leaner at 12.8. A few years ago I was chasing some other issues at idle and have my EFI very well RFI isolated. I am not running EFI timing, just a good 'ol distributor with all in at 36 degrees.
  16. No, the factory tach is not triggered by voltage pulses, but by current pulses and it has to have the coil signal run through it. The tach does not require the resistor wire (which is there to protect the points), but it may need a slight recalibration if you bypass the resistor wire.
  17. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
  18. I have seen some people go totally nuts trying to figure out all types of issues with their engines that have the Holley Sniper/FiTech fuel injection system. I was following a guy on YouTube that was going completely nuts with a drivability issue with his Holley Sniper. After months of frustration he finally figured that that the issue is RFI/EMI noise. I know that it sounds nuts, but these old cars were never designed to run EFI, and thus have little to no RFI/EMI suppression on their electrical systems. The RFI/EMI could be so bad that the EFI system just does not run, or it could be mild and you get power/drivability issues. Worth taking a look at it. Search YouTube for "Holley Sniper RFI problems or FiTech RFI problems. You will find a ton of issues. This is a generic video of the issue, buy it will give you an overview of what can happen: Everything that I can see on your engine specs looks right. Cam was degreed in, springs were installed at the correct height, you have checked your compression and know exactly what it is etc... I would not even think of pulling those heads to do a little valve unshrouding or porting, the difference will be negligible. This seems like a tuning issue, either ignition or fuel. I doubt that you have any valve float issues, valve float is very noticeable, and when you hit valve float the engine just hits a wall. Also once you start floating valves, the floating will start earlier and earlier as the springs get fatigued by the valve float. There are 2 dips in that Dyno chart after 5000 RPM, which should not be there. Do you have a way to check your fuel pressure to make sure that it is not somehow falling off at higher RPM? Maybe the timing is doing something strange after 5000. If I were to take a guess , I would bet on fuel delivery, but I could be very wrong.
  19. Sounds like the original resistance wire through the tacho has been bypassed. Isn't the resistor wire for the coil, not the tacho. As I understand it the tacho itself doesn't actually run the coil voltage through it as it is triggered by the voltage pulses from the points. I run MSD ignition with full 12V "through" the factory tacho and it works fine, accurate and steady. The resistance wire has been removed entirely.
  20. I had a problem with stripped threads in the hub and purchased 2 kits to suit. One was so bad I got a refund. The build quality is probably some of the worst I've seen. The photos show the new parts straight out of the box. The wires on both slip rings are soldered in the path of the slip ring pins. I ended up having to remove the original slip ring plate and glue it onto the new hub. What kit number did you buy? It appears you may have a direct short circuit. First, check that the horns work. Disconnect the wires, remove the steering wheel and hub. That done, bridge the 2 slip ring pins and the horns should work. If not and you get sparks instead, the problem is in the wiring somewhere else. I have instructions and can provide more photos if you need them for the Grant kit.
  21. Been a while since I posted…. welder/body guy finally started! The short version is my front half of quarter was previously crashed and heavily bondo’d, and the bottom of the door pillar was completely broken loose. It’s back together now, will need some minor massage and filler to get it perfect, but way better than before! Pic fest to follow, below the vent hole to the rocker is all new metal.
  22. I'm a believer. I was so worried I was going to be disappointed in the numbers my 408 would make with those heads. Love telling people the power she made on stock oc heads!
  23. 73'mach1, 10 years ago, I would have called Don's statement rubbish, but the fact is it's very true (at least where our iron heads are concerned. Pretty sure this all came about when the MoCo started dropping compression ratios and then everyone thought compression ratio was the ONLY way to build power, blame it all on the Boss and its (advertised compression ratio and horsepower).
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