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  2. Tony, What the hell are you doing? Stop. Your car looks amazing!. Leave it alone! Those rims look like air jordans on my grandmother. Spend it on something else...... chris
  3. I would be interested in seeing what you are talking about the 70 going under the fender apron. My guess is that you won't get too much lateral stiffness that way, but definitely longitudinal stiffness. What about reinforcing the current tower braces. They have a near 45 degrees angle so if they were reinforced it should help adding stiffness without the MC cross bar.
  4. Thanks HemiKiller and David! Very helpful info. I will contact Precision for one of my cars that has 460 exhaust manifolds for help with an H pipe and I'm glad to know the hangers are available on Ebay. I don't know how I missed finding them on Ebay because I sure did look there! I guess I missed some key words in the search. The vendors I use all say they're out of stock on the hangers. I'm thinking the maker may have gone out on his own on Ebay. All good, because the price seems to be lower! Thanks again guys.
  5. Just saw this thread. My 1971 Gremlin.
  6. Hi ,actually I am deciding what to do about adding a bar in between the towers on top.The Chassis Manual does show how and where to put one...........but on the 70 team cars,they don't have one.the 69 cars have the bar,in 70 they deleted it and went to what you would call an upper frame rail that was built and installed from the top of the cowl under the fender apron just to the front of the shock tower.So what I am doing is trying to think like a Kar Kraft engineer and figure out what and how they would have addressed that area. The 70 and 71 rules stated that no additional bars may be added
  7. Thank you! It looks like the Power Steering pump belt goes on 1st, then the alternator belt, then the A/C belt. From the looks of it, it does not have an extra idler pulley next to the power steering pump. Thank you again, you've cleared things up!
  8. Yesterday
  9. If you have a heat gun I would warm it up some, and then try to get a thin bladed putty knife between the gasket and head, and try to move it along the perimeter a little. It likely won't take much, just need to get it started pulling loose in one place.
  10. For me it always to be that my brain sees it a nano second before the incident happens, but it isn't fast enough to make me stop from doing it. Like holding something in the palm of my hand and using a flat bladed screw driver to remove a stuck screw. And right before the screw driver slips and goes deep into my palm, I swear that I knew it was going to happen the nano second before. Or holding a nail in an awkward position, thinking that I should just reposition myself, my brain sees the hammer heading for my thumb the nano second before I have a blue thumb nail. it is
  11. One of my favorite AMCs.... https://barnfinds.com/holy-grail-hornet-1971-amc-hornet-sc-360/
  12. If you crash one one of these from 55 mph you are luck to survive. They are eat up with rust.
  13. Great optioned car. Only the dealer ordered cars had few options. when a real person ordered they had options.
  14. Our convertibles definitely need to be given the respect of a lethal weapon. Heck all of our cars are not far off.
  15. Posted by a family friend. I do not have any other details on the car at this point, One family owned. Has been a summer driver for many years. Remember it is posted in Cdn. dollars, so looks to be priced pretty well. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/calgary/mustang-convertible/1524933272
  16. So I am tearing down the externals on my engine getting ready to do some painting on the engine. I am not going to remove the engine since it appears to be in good shape. Some context: In preparation for getting my Mach back running again after sitting 25+ years I have been doing a bit of work. I pulled the plugs and borescoped the cylinders and they are all rust free and thankfully appear to be in good shape. With all the accessories & water pump off the front of the engine, the crankshaft turned easily and smoothly with a ratchet wrench. I have not done a compression chec
  17. I would think there are many out there in parts cars. I just hammered two back into shape for my next build a week ago. Same for all models.
  18. I do not have a great picture. There is a lock nut when you have locks. Here is what I have. Can't get more pics for a couple days, laid up.
  19. I just looked on Ebay and there are quite a few listed. Do not know what engine or if you want dual or single you might go check them out. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1973-Exhaust-Muffler-Hanger-with-Dual-Exhaust-LH/401169190230?fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item5d678c0d56:g:orcAAOSwZVlXrMZx
  20. Service parts always had black or red oxide. Production was different. I had hoped someone would have an un restored original. This is not a show car but just as easy to do right as wrong.
  21. My uncle Charlie always had several cool cars. 1950 Ford yellow and black Crestliner, Model A roadsters, PU's even Model AA log truck. He even had a Packard lemo. He like Fords best but he also had this little rambler. Not his but just like his. I spent lots of time in Wisconsin with John Deere in Horicon. You still see some parked but not as many as you would think. A tool shop in Atlanta Georgia, DeKalb T&D bought several of the big presses when they shut down AMC. My cousin kept none of his dads cars he had a 1935 Ford coupe with 800 miles from Arizona and he did not even keep that.
  22. I looked at them back in the day but too small for 6.5" guy like me. Like a Viper today my head hits the roof even turned sideways and no helmet. They do look great and were a big go kart. Don't know about this one. It is easy to build a fast car today with all the stuff available.
  23. Keep in mind if you weld brackets to the frame it creates huge stress risers. There is a reason they bolt and rivet tractor trailer chassis together. If they welded would never last even 100,000 miles. If you do weld you need to cut the ends of the brackets on curves or arch so it is not weld a straight line. After many years of helping design equipment for John Deere I learned a lot. Look at the spring shackles on Ford PU riveted not welded. The rear would fall out if welded. Ok for something with a short life like a race car but not durable or long lived. Also when you come to the end of
  24. Yes the overlap and cut to match is pretty much the way all good shops do it. Those that just overlap and weld suck. The problem is most repo panels do not match the Ford panels 100% and you have to heat and beat into alignment. You want some gap in there or the panels will heat up expand and push each other apart.
  25. 1973 Q code I am swapping in a 1970 square bore manifold, need suggestions as to best carb, was looking at Holley Street Brawler 750cfm, elec choke, mechanical secondaries (about 100-150 less than the double pumper with same specs) though I am open to other suggestions. I need to keep the height close to stock as I intend to add either a nasa hood with ram air or the shaker intake. secondly, dizzy is in poor shape, need to go to electronic, am considering petronix II rtr replacement dizzy with the petronix 1.5 ohm coil using the original resistance wire in order to keep original tach, I d
  26. I have a one owner 73 Mach 1 that I ordered new. Has AC, PS, PDB, PW, HD alternator. I do not know if any of this helps or no. The car sat for 37 years so lots of dust and acorns but original. Single pulley on water pump on mine. I have an Osborn Chassis assembly manual for 1973 so they do have them. It show all versions of engines. There is not a Ford assembly manual just for engines that I know of. The chassis manual shows it all.
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