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  2. That caught me out with my Green one -- and this is the problem when a previous owner had also been dicking about with the wiring -- I ordered new and what I got was 2 prong... I tried to stall to drivers side and found 3x wires. one terminated out by previous owner... I learned the "don't assume you're working with originality" lesson here.
  3. Today
  4. The base configuration has a 3 pin door jamb switch on the driver's side and a 2 pin on the passenger side. However, with the convenience harness as an option, the passenger side door jamb connector plugs into the convenience harness pigtail and a 3 pin actually goes to the door jamb to allow the seat back release to occur when the passenger door opens. The courtesy lights work when either the driver or passenger side doors open allowing current to flow from the green/yellow wire at the door jamb to the black/blue wires, which actually light the lamps.
  5. My drivers side courtesy light switch has been broken for years, and I figured it should be a pretty simple fix to attempt. The actual switch is broken, the button will not pop out when the door is open, it stays permanently in the closed position. I ordered new switches and they physically work great, but electrically something is wrong and I have no idea where to begin to fix it. I tried installing the new drivers side courtesy light switch tonight to no avail…it is my understanding that the drivers side switch should have a 2 prong plug, and the passengers side should have a 3 prong plug…I seem to have 3 prongs on both of my plugs, and they appear to work intermittently depending on how you hold the wiring. Is this a grounding issue? Did someone incorrectly rewire this car at some point? My drivers side switch has 3 wires going to it, while my passengers side has 5. Now I’m no electrician, and I don’t really know how to read an electrical diagram. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be going on here? IMG_7881.MOV
  6. You guys are just going to have to get used to me mentioning the AMX every once in a while,it's part of the family....LOL...................AND NOW,back to our regularly scheduled program.I've been working on this problem for about a month...ish.And yes while messing with the AMX it did hit me,and I knew what I was going to do.The stock suspension sits on the frame at full droop,so why not build mounts the bolt to the car,just up higher in the chassis to make up for the shorter spring.So here we are.The chassis brackets are short enough to allow the spring to to removed and installed. Then bolt on the stop brackets and done. They hold tension on the spring so it can't rotate in the seat or fall out of the car.Everything is made of 1/8'',with 5/16'' grade 8 fine thread bolts.I left my self enough material to install 2 more bolts per side and upgrade them to 3/8th if I wanted to.There is no deflection in the mounts and it works like it should and looks like it belongs on the car.
  7. Yesterday
  8. 71-72 Sport lamp bulbs have to be grounded via a wire in the harness. The bulbs are different to other types. On the bottom, there are two contacts, 1 is power the other ground. On my car, I have switched all the lights to LED type including a special sport lamp bulb. Contac Bill at HiPoParts.com for the best LED's and accessories. Bill will only sell high quality stuff, not like on epay https://www.hipoparts.com
  9. Sport lamps are in the grill, the one below the bumper are running and turn signal lights.
  10. No idea about a write up per se, but I set mine so the push bar (from the Z bar) is very slightly loose, can be turned by your fingers. i.e. not too tight, not too loose. I do adjust and grease it periodically if needed. The pedal height is set by the stop on the bracket. Reminder; If you're installing a diaphragm style clutch, not the long finger style originally used, then the assist spring needs to be removed. Be careful doing this!!! Clutch set-up.pdf
  11. Yeah, well mine isn't original. Best I can tell is it's from the '78 era.
  12. If you have the "How to Rebuild Ford V8 engines" by Tom Monroe, that's really all you need. If you follow the step by step process, you really can't go wrong. I rebuilt my first engine in the parking lot of my college apartment with nothing more than basic hand tools and that book.
  13. I use the same bearing tightening procedure and finger-tighten the nut to the point it takes out any noticeable slack or movement in the rotor. Spin the rotor while torqueing, back off, then turn the nut in while rocking the top of the rotor in and out. Once there is no noticeable play, I'll put the cage and cotter in place. Never had any bearing failures with this procedure. FWIW, I always replace the races in rotor assemblies, do not trust them. Will only use USA or Japanese made bearings, whatever the brand.
  14. The correct bulb number is #94. Easiest place to find them is a marine store, they're used in stern lights. You can also use a #1076.
  15. I have a fair library of manuals and "how to" books. Some repops, some originals. The 71, 68 & 65 are reproductions, the rest are originals. The 71 & 68 I bought ages ago from Mustangs Unlimited. The 65 I bought last year from Rock Auto and it's a Detroit Iron publication. Quality is excellent and the paper is good, heavy stock. They have the 73 manual set for $60. The only caveat there is it's missing Volume 6, the one with the emissions and vacuum diagrams. RA also sells the Dave Graham reproductions, which I've heard terrible reviews on, as they supposedly have huge watermarks. I recently bought a Detroit Iron digital manual for the 73s and it's pretty darn good for $20. It's also missing volume 6, but does have the complete dealer service department wiring diagrams. FWIW, the Haynes V8 Mustang manual is worth the $20 as a good reference piece. Try to find a used one with the 72 Mach 1 cutaway on the cover, as it has the heavier paper stock, not the newsprint they use today.
  16. If you could get it all up to OKC we could do it over a weekend. 7hr drive though. Have you joined the Mustang club in San Antonio? If not that’s your next stop. https://samc.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?sl=1491604316
  17. In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined
  18. Thanks for the tips, everyone. When I replace the z bar and all of the bushings, I assume I need to readjust the clutch linkage. Is there a write-up on doing so?
  19. Got my set (5) on eBay some time ago. These are the original Ford shop manuals. mike
  20. Heck yeah! I'd never leave the shop!!
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