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    Don C

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/25/2021 in all areas

  1. On my GT, not my Mustang, but figured you guys would appreciate anyway. You've seen the movie, no? ;-)
    8 points
  2. Though it’s more of a video where I’m talking through a slideshow of my work I hope you still find it enjoyable. I promise to be better about filming!
    6 points
  3. Hi Just finished my DIY cover :-)
    6 points
  4. Finally starting to work underneath the car again and got the fuel tank installed. Had to call the wifey to come down and help hold it up so I could position in place then attach the straps. Found my original evap hose with the part numbers still on it. Got the fuel filler neck in and the rubber gasket. Next up is the honeycomb moldings, then onto the rear suspension restoration.
    6 points
  5. Decided to tackle this little project. The car came with a center console that was in less than desirable shape but not bad enough to toss so I decided to try a few things. First there was a section missing, so I took an extra kick panel I had and cut it to shape the outline of the forward drivers side. then steel wool on all the trim and masked. Sprayed with some duplicolor flexible vinyl paint I believe it was. second, found some textured black abs plastic on eBay (12” square 1/8” thick) and fabricated a cover and made a cup holder where the ash tray was and a usb charge
    6 points
  6. Just got an E-mail confirming that my one owner 1973 Mach 1 has been picked to be part of the 50th. Birthday of the, what they are calling, 'Big Horse Mustangs, 1971 - 1973". It will be located in Building T. I have to have the car there on June 2 2021 and the actual public showing is June 4 - 6, 2021. So maybe some of the members in the area can get together and meet for real. I am on the list now to get the Covid vaccine since I have Emphysema I am at high risk and will be 73 in March. So will see if Dr. can take care of my back surgery ASAP. Did not want to do unless I had the vaccine
    4 points
  7. Well I started today with the goal of getting the leaf springs off to replace the bushings. The bolts won that battle, but I got a case of the "since I'm here"s and ended up stripping and painting the rear end. Think I'm gonna try again on the leaf spring bolts on the weekend. The nuts came off ok, but the actual bolts themselves are stuck in the bushings so I'm thinking about taking a sawzall to them.
    4 points
  8. Tony, I'll have to post the page from Icon's catalog, showing the special piston inverse dome that goes with the Aussie head chamber configuration. These heads have a smaller combustion chamber than the 4V Clevelands do, and therefore, will raise the compression ratio higher than what pump gas can handle, so a special piston is required. If memory serves, the compression ratio with the Icons is somewhere around 9.0 to 9.5:1. Chamber cc's , deck volume, and gasket volume , can be juggled, and will dictate the final C/R. The dish in the piston top resembles the chamber shape, so the quench area
    4 points
  9. Okay, I think we're just getting a bit off track here now. We're not building race cars or even high performance street cars. We are trying to get a 71-73 Mustang to handle a bit better without breaking the bank. Sure, we could spend 5 grand or more on a really slick suspension set-up and some indeed want to do that and build a truly amazing rocket ship, but that's not many of us. For sure, not too many of us really know the ins and outs of suspension geometry, so we sort of have to trust what's out there in the marketplace and hope that sufficient engineering was done prior to us buying the p
    4 points
  10. End-result I am quite satisfied
    4 points
  11. Years ago, I owned a beautiful 1930 Model A Coupe, and was an active member in the San Fernando Valley Chapter of the Model A Ford Club of America. I drove my car everyday ,although it was as clean or cleaner than most, but no show car. At one point, I actually worked at Thee Antique Ford Shop, in Reseda, for a man who owned four himself, and did concourse restorations, to radiator flushes, on A's and early V8s . Interesting point, is that during this time, the judging standards changed from allowing Cad plated engine hardware, to saying that Black Oxide was now the appropriate fastener
    4 points
  12. This morning, I ground the welds on the quarter panel patch. I found a few pinholes that I also welded up and dressed. It came out pretty nice, I think. A very thin skim coat of body filler, and you will never be able to find it. I got the quarter panel extensions mounted and hey, it's starting to look like a car, again. With the quarter panels done, it's time to move on to the roof. I started removing the spot welds along the drip rails. There are about 28, or maybe more, along each drip rail, with about 36 along the front edge and 34 along the back edge. After
    4 points
  13. hello everybody. I have been a passive viewer of the forum for a while, but am just getting to introducing myself... my dad received a '71 mach 1 as payment for some concrete work he did when i was about 7 yrs old. He had no need for a muscle car since he was a contractor and only needed more trucks. But his plans to sell the beauty were stopped when I overheard his conversations and offered him everything in my ceramic piggy bank (>$10). Unfortunately I was unable to work on the car until i graduated college, and my first "few" paychecks went into restoring it. Long story short, here
    3 points
  14. Yo all I'm nearly as good as 4x4 Mister ... I now have a Chrome nose Been sorting him out since his winter hybernation -- only minor defects left over - for example: dash light dimmer doesnt work, irritating little garbage like that! The big stuff is nearly done. -apart from one of the front shocks still squeaks - so they're getting replaced next weekend. New UK plates put on today - so took him on a test run today .
    3 points
  15. Hello,it only took 4 weeks to install the radiator,but at least it's done. I made the mounts using the KK blue prints for 69/70,and modified it for a 71.The radiator is a high as I could get it. The upper hold downs are about 3/8ish from the bottom of the hood,and I was able to get the outlet about 3/8ths above the drivers frame rail.I also moved the top of it as close to the support as possible.I had to bend ,tweek and shorten the upper brackets.Hinchcliffs and Topes car both used Vette radiators.I had thought about it,but decided to fight with Henry's 4 core,as thats what i assume they woul
    3 points
  16. Get a mechanic's stethoscope and try to isolate the area the noise is coming from.
    3 points
  17. Yesterday I layed down with 5 layers of clothes and removed the rear leaf spings and the rear axle. To my surprise the front bolt of the front eye bushing of the rear leafs were going out almost like butter. A little wiggeling with the leafs, a small punch here and there out they where! Thank god sometime in the very past the previous owner changed the springs, put some big shackles in the rear, air shocks and painted all red - it's not that I am that thankful of all these things but at least he put in new valuable bolts everywhere so I had no problems taking them out! Puh...
    3 points
  18. Last evening I began with my 6-year-old the disassembling of the rear axle... It began and ended up really good Saw some interesting solutions, asked some questions about it there: 28-spline - original to the axle and fits to the axle tag Confirmed: '73 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, 4-speed, competition suspension and 3.50 (non locking) gears came original with 28-spline axles Black, coated with carbon, but not dead Original Ford-seal, was still sealing
    3 points
  19. Not to go too far off subject, but almost every bar I go to sways after a few replacement drinks...
    3 points
  20. I actually bought matching pairs of Manufacturers plates for my 73. These were issue to Ford Motor Company in 1973 and were on any vehicles that the engineers or test personnel took out on the road. Just thought it would be different. One set was taken from Ford by an engineer the other I do not know.
    3 points
  21. Small update: Laid down the template from Graphic Express for the TuTone Hood Blackout! Had some help from a friend and a professionel graphic designer buddy We didn't had to cut it but measure carefully and laid it down with an original hood lip attached! Took some measurements of some original cars of our forum here before (David's, 7173Vert's etc.). With the original template uncut the width is a little bit narrower than David's and 7173Vert's, but only a little bit. As they are very inconsistent from the factory it will look right. The space to the hood lip I
    3 points
  22. Thanks, Rio, timachone, and Fabrice. It's my first real project like this, and I think it's going pretty well. I'm really getting excited seeing it actually come together. Don, I looked at additional bracing for the back of the roof, but the support I have from the old donor roof that didn't work out wouldn't fit and I am not prepared to fab up a brace before the roof skin goes back on. I won't be doing any body filler on the roof panel, though. Just a couple coats of high build primer, and I'll go real easy with the sanding block on that. Today, I finished cleaning up the wel
    3 points
  23. Best I could get. All the ones with Mach spelled out in any fashion were taken.
    3 points
  24. If you guys really want a Boss, I have a used one that I just divorced, and she'll cost less than what this guy is asking for. And she's good at Bossing, let me tell you!
    3 points
  25. I bought my Boss 351 for $38,000 about 5 years ago. Mine is not concourse, but a very nice car. So guessing he is a little high on the pricing as you guys stated because of the non originality. But what a great car to drive and enjoy if you can get it at a reasonable price.
    3 points
  26. Pretty, but I don’t understand it being worth that value. In the write up they say they went from the original pewter to this color, they reduced compression from 11.7 to 9.4 or so, and they changed the rear end out from the 3:91. Additionally, the front chassis paint is incorrect. Also stated that the block and the differential were not numbers matching, has a different carb, and that it comes with the original exhaust manifolds, meaning it’s probably got headers. So don’t think I am dissing the seller for not being original, as my car is far from original. I just think the p
    3 points
  27. Finally got my a/f and trans temp gauges installed. Did a dry fit on both sides plus the rear of the shifter and the passenger side worked out best. Really no other place to put them. Easy to see and out of the way even for the passenger. Need to finish hooking up the exhaust and I will be back on the road again.
    3 points
  28. David, not everybody believes in, or trust Chiropractors, but as someone who has had some back pain issues, mainly from my past power lifting competition days, along with doing stupid stuff, I have had great relief from Chiropractic and acupuncture. I personally don't go to Dr's for pain relief if I can avoid it, they just pump you up with pills and short term relief. Your choice of course, but all I'm saying is there may be an alternative to pain pills. Reading all your posts, you have had a varied and interesting life, don't give up on your dreams with your Mustangs just yet. Wishi
    3 points
  29. Hi, just to drive home the fact I am using the staggered shocks.Here is a pic of a 71 Penske Trans Am Javelin.
    2 points
  30. I did the 460 (it was already built at the time and 351c was out to repair rear main leak and pull bad C6 anyway..). 429 mounts, 429 PI exhaust manifolds (simplicity, but better flow than 71 460 manifolds), had a big spline Torino toploader on hand already too. Used the 71 Lincoln Mark 3 radiator and the 351c PS pump bolted to the Lincoln brackets. Install was not complex. Standard smaller spline 4 speed is tough, but will be taxed similarly with either a stroker or a 460, so isn't a big factor between the 2 options presented, idt. If jacking up a 351c to approach 460 torque outputs, th
    2 points
  31. Last weekend I did the 3rd member with my friend Oli and his great experience concerning rear ends was a big help. It was a 12h job including new axle shaft bearings. But all went flush as good as it could be! So we could dial in the gears perfectly with a very good contact pattern. The gears looked still very nice and we were able to get good toothing with a big wide area pattern, preload and backlash perfect though. By doing this we changed the open carrier to a limited slip one, a original Ford one, the M-4204-F28A, I bought five years ago. We used Timken and Koyo USA bearings for all, so g
    2 points
  32. When you turn the screw make only slight adjustments. Turning it 1/4 turn left or right will make it not work. Im sure you know this but the screw adjusts the vibration tone.
    2 points
  33. Okay the Ram Air setup is finished. I blocked the snorkel of and left the flappers open so it only sucks air from the scoops. The air cleaner filter is changed to a KN filter. The whole unit is lowered by 1 inch to make it fit the Edelbrock Airgap intake. I manage to cut away 1 inch and squeeze in a 2 inch filter. As a christmas gift to my self I bought the new Terminator X stealth with the DualSync dizzy. Il probably start the engine next week :-)
    2 points
  34. Both your car and your Dad's are well optioned for sure. I never met the person that had the one I have. He was in Army and they shipped your car home for $1.00. Since there are several military bases in North & South Carolina there were quite a few in the area at one time. I just missed getting a 1965 289 coupe last year for $3,500. I do think there were two versions of the T-5. This car has Mustang in the original side stripes and did not have the fender emblems, no holes there. I will have to go look at the tire label today if I can get the door open been sitting in same spot since th
    2 points
  35. Mike, At $38K you got a very good deal. Very nice car indeed. Chuck
    2 points
  36. There's some bozo on the website that does conversions from standard to tach wiring. From what he told me, he can't convert the headlight harness, but the only thing that changes are the two ammeter lines; most people convert the ammeter to a voltmeter via RCCI (Rocketman Classic Cougar Innovations). If you want the proper headlight harness, the only reproduction is for the Mach 1 (tach), but it comes with the sportlamps. For some reason, I can't remember this bozo's name...Midnight maybe?
    2 points
  37. I set the mock up on the car. We’ll see if I stick with the idea. I am not confident that I can butt weld that much sheetmetal and end up with a finished product that I am happy with. Currently I really like the way it looks, but I may end up going with a NACA / NASA hood out of practicality.
    2 points
  38. Just to echo what Don said. If reusing gears you should measure backlash and check pattern with marking compound BEFORE you take it apart. Providing the used pattern looks good you want to try to copy it. If it looks bad you may want to consider new gears instead (as the gears may be worn). You will need an inch pound dial or beam style torque wrench to set bearing preload. Marking compound to check pattern. Dial indicator and base to check backlash. Press and assortment of bushings to install bearings. Have fun and take your time. This video is the best I have found to show what p
    2 points
  39. You must use the new crush sleeve, they are not reusable. The exception would be if you use a solid spacer, then you have to adjust it with shims. As to using new pinion carrier shims, it will depend on how close to original the new bearings are, as to whether you can just reuse the shims. You will find out when you check the pattern on the ring gear. You will still need to set the clearances, backlash, and preloads. You'll need a beam or dial inch-pound torque wrench.
    2 points
  40. That's what I like to hear from ANY company: willing to stand behind their work.
    2 points
  41. so I know this is going to piss off the purists. I have always had a good audio system in my cars, I competed professionally for many years and stock is just not going to do it for me. With the Stang, we went for an old school approach, USD Waveguides and some 6in Midbass drivers, I wanted to keep the stock look inside with a good amount of attack and volume. We tried to look for options in terms of the 6in drivers. But went totally bonkers
    2 points
  42. I finished the paint on the engine and trans. I like how it turned out for a little more of a custom look.
    2 points
  43. Ford used the stator terminal for their electric chokes because the only time there is voltage on that terminal is when the engine is running. However, the stator terminal just has 6 to 8 volts on it, which the heating element in the Ford choke was designed for. I believe all aftermarket electric chokes require 12 volts. They will function on the stator voltage, but slower, and the choke may take longer to fully open. An alternative is to use a relay that will energize on the stator voltage and use the relay to supply battery voltage.
    2 points
  44. Don't sell yourself short. Just take your time and do some research first. Watch videos and read about it. Then take the plunge! That is how you learn. You be surprised what you can do if you give it a try. Plus all the money you can save by doing it yourself vs paying someone you can use for more goodies for the car.
    2 points
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