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  1. Don C

    Don C

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  2. Hemikiller

    Hemikiller

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    RocketFoot

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  4. Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/30/20 in all areas

  1. Hey guys, just a quick note to thank Ohio Mustang Supply for continuing to help support the forums by advertising with us! Don and Erin have been with us since day 1 and it would be hard to name anyone more knowledgeable about parts for our cars! Please be sure to check out Ohio Mustang Supply when you need parts and pass their name along when you see others asking for Mustang parts! Please, give all of our sponsors a shot before you shop elsewhere! Thank you! https://ohiomustang.com/
    5 points
  2. Been a while since I last posted an update on the Grabber Lime Mach. Am working my way through the interior and now have the headliner and roof moldings in, the dash has been painted and installed, and just finished up putting the package tray and moldings back in. Will be working on the sail panels, interior quarter panels, installing the rear window and rear seats next.
    5 points
  3. If they quoted you $3K find another shop. Chuck
    5 points
  4. Thought I would share a few shots of my 71 and my wife's 70 that she did the majority of the work on herself.
    4 points
  5. July 2020 marked 10 years for 7173Mustangs.com! That is a pretty nice landmark for any internet site considering all of the competition out there anymore! Facebook is probably the number one forum killer on the web today…it’s fast, easy and just about everyone is already using it. But Facebook has several flaws that should keep it from ever killing a forum…for one, Facebook’s search feature is terrible! You can barely find a post you made 2 days ago on any busy FB group! Another flaw is that the post/thread architecture is hard to follow and posts get lost easily! Thirdly, there are just
    4 points
  6. Well Luxstang, sounds like your done with the Mustang stuff, bummer. But you gotta do what makes you happy, so take care and good luck with your guitar building venture! Hope it works out!
    3 points
  7. Try Greyhound Bus lines for large parcel shipments.
    3 points
  8. Thanks, I hope this can help others. There are days that I don't feel like working on it, but my theory is to do one thing a day (even if it is putting four nuts on to attach something), and after 30 days, then 30 more things are done.
    3 points
  9. Front finished this morning, Bumper Bar, Grille, headlights, wiring harness, AC dryer & lines, etc. The bumper bar was an effort on my own but everything lined up, so all good. Now onto the roof lining. BUT, Now realised the body shop that did the sand blasting and final disassembly sent me back the wrong front guard extensions so now it all has to come out and the correct ones installed. !!!!
    3 points
  10. I am building a 71 Mach 1 into a Trans Am car.I'm building the car as if it have been built by Kar Kraft had Ford not canceled the program.I am however taking some creative liberties in doing so. The car is a 429cj,4 speed.Going to run 8" Minilites in front with 10s in the rear.Just installed 210lb 1 3/4 leafs in today with monoballs.........................
    2 points
  11. Same here. I do get her help when bleeding the brakes as long as the temperature is right and she has internet access and it is not too late and it doesn't take too long and it doesn't smell like oil and it is not in the middle of her TV shows and the mood is right!
    2 points
  12. So glad to have this done! all sorts of goodies New rebuild kit (bearings, needles, seals, gaskets, o-rings, synchros, snap rings) New 2nd, 3rd, 4th (input) gear New 1-2 and 3-4 slider assembly Had it sand blasted down to bare cast, primed and sealed with duplicolor engine paint (cast iron color) Filled with fresh 80w-90. First time every doing this, huge thanks to you guys as well as the “work bench how to” books.
    2 points
  13. Yer policy is not real effective if you let me in! Well, I'm definitely an exception! Seems to be lots of folks in the Michigan / Ohio region. I'm between Toledo and Detroit. I see guys from Oregon, Nebraska, and Texas too. Great! Somebody to find us rust-free sheet metal!! Took a pic of what I drug home. Yes, the wheels have GOT to go!! Thanks to all for the warm welcome!
    2 points
  14. Yeah, here's the latest in buffer technology, the buffer wheels on this should take care of all those wrinkles
    2 points
  15. Hello,just a quickie.Roller idler arm installed.The plate from the frame to the bottom is 1/8'' and the the 2 side braces are 3/8'',so it shouldn't bend or walk.I also filed the sides if the arm mount flat so it has a nice fit to the side brackets.I'm most likely going to remove the stud in the end of the center link and replace with a bolt.
    2 points
  16. So I had a rattle on the front passenger side of my 71 Mach 1. To start with I took the front wheel off check to make sure all the suspension components were tight without any rattles. Looked at the brakes everything seemed fine. My hood I thought was a little bit loose so I tightened up the adjusters on the inside to take up any slack. Some of the rattle went away but I still had a rattle? Next I thought I might have a broken shock or coilover. A quick look and some quick testing by pushing down on the fender confirmed the shock and spring were fine. So I took it over to a buddy of mine to do
    2 points
  17. You're dead right, getting old is definitely not for sissies, but way better than the alternative. Another little saying of mine is; "My eyes see what I saw when I was 20, my mind thinks like I thought when I was 20, I just don't recognize the old fart in the mirror!" Stay young and prosper my friend.
    2 points
  18. 65-72 link : https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqm6u_qXXQuqgQu0Qmx-pM8ocPTk?e=8aSSfh 73-79 link : https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqm6u_qXXQuqgq82FhiKzKxc4RHk2A?e=dQg1AV These are only good for two weeks from today. Save them to your hard drive or cloud service.
    2 points
  19. I have ben running a 3.50:1 Trac-Loc in mine for 30 years now. My car, as bought, had a 3.00:1 open rear end. I changed the rear because I knew my purpose was to not only drive the car everyday, but also tow my boat(s). The lower gears give me more grunt to pull with, and the Trac-Loc helps on wet ramps, and when I may have to pull way over on the shoulder of a highway with the trailer, putting the right wheel in the dirt. Now that I've explained WHY I changed the rear gears, I will tell you that, Yes, the highway rpm is more elevated than before. However, being that I am an "old man" of
    2 points
  20. So I must give kudos to a couple vendors out there. 1) I worked with National Parts Depot on the hose. Provided photos, and talked about the concerns with the crimp. They checked inventory and found one they thought looked better than my crimp and are replacing at their cost. I sent them a few pics of my car, so you may see it in an upcoming catalogue ( yeah right 😉) 2) Marty at Power Steering.com told me they did find a retaining ring out of place that likely caused some of my erratic power assist conditions. The box will arrive back here tomorrow and he even refunded me some mo
    2 points
  21. Hello once again.I figured this was a worth look. I got in most of the rest of my front suspension.This stuff is from Opentracker.A roller idler arm,roller spring perches,tie rod adjusters, LCA boxing plates and on the bottom are the monoballs for the LCAs.The rest of the pics are 4 days of welding on the front end.I am fully welding all of the lower frame rail seams nose to tail on the whole car,torque boxes and any and all structural and suspension points. Evey thing else will be skip welded every 2 inches.Just now waiting for the hiem joints for the sway bar links, then I can build the lowe
    2 points
  22. The only way you should spend $3,000 on a gear swap is if you are installing a limited slip, really fancy (expensive) carrier, chromoly axles, nice gears etc... A gear change alone should be 1/3rd that cost at the most. You could buy a brand new carrier with bearings, gears and limited slip from Strange for about $1600-1800 and put it in yourself.
    2 points
  23. I am working on a Q code 72 vert right now. I am going to make my own connectors and also add reinforcement to rocker box to weld roll cage to. I am going to use a material that about 4 times the yield strength of materials used in the current connectors out there. The lover pan is different than other models. I do have hydraulic bender. If they work out I will probably make a few sets to sell. Chassis is on the rotisserie and in work room will be getting started soon.
    2 points
  24. CJ Pony parts sucks! Don’t get anything from those bunch of yahoo who’s. They don’t know much about our cars and their customer service is horrible.
    2 points
  25. 2 points
  26. Heres my attempt to video my install of the Hood Lock Kit (32 piece from Ohio Mustang Supplies) since I was not able to find any YouTube videos on this...don't hate... I'm just a learning as I go and sharing back what I am in case someone else can use it -) https://youtu.be/T0qUKwTL43g
    2 points
  27. Got some improvements completed- 3G alternator and Duraspark 1 ignition upgrade- 14.3V @ 600 RPM. Then cleaned the dust off...
    2 points
  28. One option is to trade your disk brake spindles for drum brake spindles and install Mustang Steve's brackets for later (and larger) Mustangs brakes and rotors. https://www.mustangsteve.com/
    2 points
  29. Run a coarse thread drywall screw into the sheet metal portion of the seal then use a pair of alternative lifestyle pliers to grab the screw and leverage it out enough until you can get a screw driver or chisel behind it.
    2 points
  30. Me again.Who here has ever thought about adding the Trans Am shock tower braces to your car? It wasn't easy. Since nobody makes them like for 64 through 70,I went ahead and made a set.They are 1/8" and installed at a 45 degree angle from midway vertically on the factory internal brace to the top of the frame.Not to bad to weld in,accept for welding inside the bottom of the tower pocket to the frame,that sucked. I ended up cutting a 1/4 inch slice in the side of the frame to access the bottom of the brace and the top of the frame.I welded those together through the slice then welded the top of
    2 points
  31. Here ya go................Its not that hard of a process. But it is very labor intensive. I started the cut at the cowl just above the hood hinge bolt and went straight to the rad support.Then cutting again from where I started gently angle the cut down till it was at the top of the shock tower,about 9/16 or 5/8 of an inch.Then from the front of the tower is a progressively steeper pie cut to the rad support. The radiator support I sectioned two inches out of,reinstalled then bring down the top of the aprons gently check heights and width and weld.the pic of the pie cut is only at 1 1/4 inches
    2 points
  32. normally i we always see the fastbacks with the mach1 grill and fog lights..... this is the first time I've ever seen it without that. I low key like the black silhouette around the pony with no chrome molding. @Robsweden great job on the unique touch. really stands out.
    2 points
  33. +1 on the Hookers. Have them coated if you want them to last. Are you talking headers or hookers in general.
    2 points
  34. As a kid, I offered to help my older Brother's friend fix his leaking PS hose on his '56 T-Bird. Not knowing that the PS hose is a special hose, i replaced it with a length of gas hose. As soon as he started the engine and turned the wheel, the hose burst, sending lots of hydraulic fluid all over my parent's new , recently asphalted driveway. Nothing caught fire, however my rear was burning when my Dad put his boot up my arse. I learned two lessons that day.....always use the correct hose when working on power steering systems, and, don't oil down your parents property.
    2 points
  35. Painting finished, now for the final assembly. All interior parts are finished and ready to go back in.
    2 points
  36. I wouldn’t, I think your car looks awesome as is. The rear spoiler on the coupes just doesn’t look good to me either.
    2 points
  37. Thanks guys for the compliments. All I did was cut the top part of the ends of the bumper at the V, heated and hammered it inwards to better get it to line up with the fender end caps then rewelded . As for stripping it I just used a grinder with a flap wheel and ground all the chrome off, then I used a DA sander with 80 grit, epoxy primed, then Slicksand, block sanded, sealed it then painted. Ryan
    2 points
  38. Ya once they have been run they will likely be harder to get cleaned up and a nice ceramic coating put on. But talk to some shops near you and see what they can do.
    1 point
  39. Probably Hedman 88220 (1 3/4" tubes) or 88320 (1 5/8" tubes). IIRC, Hedmna stamped the part number on the collector tube. Most places that do coating will sandblast the headers prior, but yours are a little crusty and might cost extra. I'd dig around Google to see if there's anyone near you that does the work and contact them. Worst case, wire wheel or sandblast them yourself and use some POR15 manifold paint.
    1 point
  40. Sometimes it's like that. You lose interest or inspiration for awhile...like a phase., it may pass. I know every time I have gotten rid of something because I felt a lack of interest, I regretted it later. Although, I do know how much fun small two seaters are! Especially if the top goes down and it has a manual transmission. Some people will never know what it's like. Maybe it will come back, if not, have fun either way!
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. Hey everyone. I’m finally ready to put new exhaust on. Has anyone been able to find headers that will fit the 351c with power steering and brakes? I want to stay with long tube headers for street driving torque, but can’t Seem to find any. Thanks.
    1 point
  43. Here is a link to a car restored for a guy that was in pretty decent shape to begin with. I had around 700 hours in it.
    1 point
  44. Welcome to the forum from North Carolina. If you need part put up a list lots of us have parts cars and might have what you need.
    1 point
  45. +1 on tearing it down. The ethanol may have started disintegrating the insides of the rubber hoses, if you haven't replaced them with fuel injection quality hoses, which are ethanol resistant. If you haven't already replaced them now would be a good time.
    1 point
  46. I have a set of Hooker #6915 headers on my 72 Mach 1 with a 351 Cleveland with 4v heads and a c6 transmission. They fit perfectly with no modifications needed.
    1 point
  47. Well to be fair mine was a 70 cougar with a 4V 351C, just figured they would close on all 351C. I had to hack 1/2 of an inch on mine. I ended up switching them to some premium stock types.
    1 point
  48. Actually convinced the wife to go for a ride last night. We went to Sonic for some root beer floats & corn dogs, then took some of the same over to my Mom's place. Pulled up to her place right about sunset, then remembered that I still need to aim the headlights and discovered one of the LEDs in the speedometer needs a reseat as well. Driving along with all the lights on and noticing the voltmeter's reading just about 12.5V says everything seems to be working OK, but when the RPMs drop back to idle, it seems to struggle for juice. Might be time for a newer, high-output 1-wire alte
    1 point
  49. Going to the bodyshop today. I put together a 39 page binder with 30 pictures of paint and decal details with 9 tabbed title pages with descriptions. I added some descriptions and details on the pictures as well. I could not have put this binder together without this website and the forum members who have done this before and have offered their pictures and advice. I wish I could remember everyone by name who has helped thus far, I can't. So: THANKS TO EVERYBODY HERE AND 7173MUSTANGS.COM!!!
    1 point
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7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

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Founded:
July 2010

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Webfinity Design

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