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  1. I did some Autocross today. Today was the last race of this year. This is my second year and it was a huge improvement. When I started last year I was at the bottom 5% of the group. The group is of about 100 cars. I started this year at the bottom 25% after the new suspension. Today I was in the top 33%. This is the second race in a row that I beat all the other Mustangs. There are about 5-6 Mustangs from 2000+ and I am running better than them. The Maier suspension with the Michelin PS4 tires are amazing! It is very cool to have a car that can handle all those Gs.
    13 points
  2. Couple shots from this past weekend. Got a chance to really push the new suspension components and they performed exceptionally well.
    11 points
  3. I had just gotten the car fired up after sitting at my brothers house for 4 years without it running. Anxious to see what it could do and to give the engine a good "blowing out" I drove to the local 4 lane highway and I laid into it on the entrance ramp. As I reach the top of the ramp getting ready to merge the speedo said 75 and as I looked into the side mirror I saw the local police coming up on the main highway behind me. I figure he would light me up but instead he just stayed on my tail. Laying off the gas and taking the first exit I took the back road back to my house with him in tow. After pulling into my drive he pulled up and got out of his cruiser. He ask how I was doing and I said fine. He mention that he had clocked me at 77 and I told him that it was the first time out with it and I wanted to give it a good run and I said I was sorry. He looked at me with a half smile and said that with a car like that he would of gave me up to 90 mph before considering pulling me over. Come to find out he was into muscle cars and he has a 69 Chevelle SS with a 396. After talking cars for about a half hour he said he had to get back to work. I have seen him numerous times since then and we have become friends.
    10 points
  4. From the factory steel with sports caps. To some Australian made, early 1970's ROH Pro Sprint wheels. 235 / 60 / 14 on the front and 245 / 60 / 14 on the back. Next job, to replace the front drum brakes with disk.
    7 points
  5. 7 points
  6. So today I finished up the paint on my front bumper. Here it is in the paint booth after sanding down the primer, final wipe with wax remover and tack cloth. I also vacuumed the paint booth and sprayed down some dust treatment on the floor. A sealer coat was applied next. It helped to gain a little confidence with the paint gun before applying actual paint. One more tack and it was time to lay down paint. Four coats: And then finally four coats of high durability clear: The finished product looks pretty good for my first attempt with a paint gun. It will be baked overnight. Frankly the whole process was not as difficult as I had imagined. Using a paint gun was much easier than a rattle can! Paint work has always been black magic to me. It was actually pretty fun to give it a go. I'm a little worried the bumper is going to look too nice up against the 45 year old paint on the rest of the car...ha! I have decided I am going to tackle painting the Mach 1 hood blackout myself next week. I need to get a buddy over to help me lift off the hood this weekend as I am going to paint it off the car.
    7 points
  7. @tony-muscle Thx Tony, but you know, I can't save these parts half! Once you actually do all this routinely, the shine comes almost for free. And that it's underneath or in plain sight doesn't really matters. Plus, once they are under a nice coat, they are so smooth to the touch, it's much more easy to clean than that raw rough steel. @timachone Nothing goes above a Mustang read for breakfast! I was planning to focus only on my new patient, the saginaw steering gear, but as this weekend was looking like the last dry not too cold weekend of the year, I went plan b and use that weather to spray a few things, so I could be able to finish a few things I've started before the misery comes back.. Here's my last weekend, as usual, not perse in chronological order. After some taping and good degreasing, primed, painted and coated my booster. It popped in my mind that a a booster needs a master cylinder to actually do something and as it was in a box for a long time, I totally forgot it (almost). So sprayed it in its own grey and as the clear coat I'm using gave me pretty results on other zinc protected parts, I also took the chinese chrome cover with it. While the booster was drying, made some rubber gasket to fit in between firewall and the unit as I did on my 73. There was nothing left of the original plastic thingy and as its sole purpose is to isolate air to enter the cabine, this should be even better as it eventually takes out vibs too. All hard on Sunday, I've installed the one way valve grommet/valve and I was pretty pleased to see the combo now in a pretty descent state! I'm sure purists will file a complain about the finish... but in my jurisdiction, I'm dang happy about the way they look considering how all this was just a week ago and they match my greys theme ! :D In between spray & heat gun sessions for my parts. I went back to the gear dismantelling, and on one side, you need a special tool to unlock it. A visit to my local shop revealed that the right tool, was just $110... yeah right. Soooo as I have a couple of similar tools that came with past axe tools to change/secure disks, I've cut one, and welded in the missing space. Few minutes later, after first marking the position of the assembly to ease reassembly later on, I used my frankenstein tool and it did great. Tho, after the locking ring is loose, it's not really necessary. I think having it will be handy later on. Oh well, I have it now and saved some money :D The unit had no play, no leaks and I could have just cleaned it up and mount it back, but I'm glad I did not cut corners, as while bushings and pretty much everything is looking good, after 50 years, it was really in need of a good clean up! New o-rings, gaskets etc.. should give it a few decades more! Btw, If you ever service one of these. Keep in mind there is a hole on the side of the casing to get that snap ring out. Don't loose precious time as I did to try get it out the way snap rings are supposed to be taken out, this is GM, they make holes in casings vs use good snap rings! :D The weather still perfect, I also changed my plan that was to first put the gear back together and then paint, because 2 weeks of misery are coming this way and would end up with casing that only wants to rust on me. So after some love, got that casing grease, rust free and after some tedious masking, I've sprayed that baby. Because I know I will have the challenge to not damage the finish on the way back, I sprayed 6 thin layers of coat with 5 minutes in between with heat gun, and ended up with a real thick long lasting surface that should be solid rock next weekend. Installing back faded alumnium parts on a bling bling unit being kinda silly when you own a polishing machine, I gave the top and end cap some love, corrected the many casting flaws with files and sanding paper and got them whoooo sssssssshhhiny! :D My pitman arm and its hardware already done, I realised the sector shaft would be out of tone, but this thingy being really heavy, I would need build some complex thingy to hold it while it took a bath... nah, plan B too there! Went freehand plating :D and before I got some cramp, I ended up with the exposed part looking as my pitman arm. Ater a good rinse, cleaning it went in a freezing bag under a good layer of assembly goo so it doesn't rust on me or collects any debris. Btw, this stuff, is fantastic. made for transmission repair, where it really made a big difference for the 2 trans I did in past 2 years acting often as a third hand. Most of all, it ensures all stays lube, no matter how long it will take before you actually use the parts. Once it warms up a bit it desolves. My forgotten tie rod end also plated and painted, I could also place back the other side. Which gave me a weird alignment where both wheels were going opposite directions. Turning the sleeves on both side corrected that, tho I will only be able to make a "not too shabby" adjustment only after the pitman/gears are back in. Install and adjustments where done with great ease now that all is restored/new. Big contrast with removing them! Turning the wheels is now smooth as butter. With one or 2 hours of sun left, I decided I did enough for the weekend and that it was time to take the lady 73 for a spin... awesome! To be continued....
    7 points
  8. A beautiful fall day on the prairies. Took time to stretch the legs of the convertible. The leaves will be gone before we know it.
    7 points
  9. I painted my hood today. After gaining confidence with the paint gun on the front bumper I figured what the hell, give it a go. Here it is with stencil in place, masked, sanded and tacked ready for paint: Well, moment of truth. After two coasts of single stage and thirty minutes to flash, I removed all the tape. Ta da! I'm pretty happy with the result. Not too shabby for "amateur hour". Going to let it bake overnight and then reinstall tomorrow. I'll wait a few days before putting on the Argent 351 RAM AIR decals.
    6 points
  10. I decided to repaint my front bumper to get rid of 45 years of stone chips and blemishes, and a really bad paint chip repair I did back in '79 or '80 with a mismatched bottle of touch up paint and a brush. I removed the bumper and cleaned things up. I took down to a local body shop where they let me do the repairs myself. I shot the primer today and hope to lay down color tomorrow. This is my first time painting using something other than a rattle can. I figure if I can get the bumper right I can go on to bigger things. I hoping to get enough confidence to do the hood Mach 1 blackout paint myself.
    6 points
  11. I’ve realized that one has to be careful with all the attention these cars bring. I had someone stop traffic until I acknowledged his thumbs up (I was pumping go juice), to having another taking a picture while driving at 70mph! However my favorite story, so far, was when I bought the car and went to switch the title they told me I had a year to get it inspected. Thought it was peculiar since NC does not require an inspection for older cars. Put it off for 8 months, when I finally went to get it “inspected” at the DMV he came out and took a picture of the vin and car. That’s when I found out they were just checking to see if it was stolen. While waiting, had a guy come up to talk about it. 5 minutes later a State Trooper pulls up behind me, gets out, and asked “who’s car is this!”? OH CRAP. Now, I’m thinking there goes my purchase price and why oh why did I drop more money into it before this. “Mine sir” He then proceeded to hold his keys up in the air and asked “Wanna trade?” Somehow I was able to keep my composure enough to lean over and look around him at his fully equipped dodge charger, state issued, patrol car and reply “no thanks”. After a few laughs I proceeded to cuss him out for about giving me a heart attack as he didn’t know what I was there for. Well, if you made it this far, I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did (?) and would love to hear y’all’s story’s! john
    6 points
  12. Hello,I'm still at it.I'm currently working on the outer wheel house filler panels. I have the drivers side fit tight to the quarter and tacked in. Now to do the passenger side then to weld them in. I also made the front and rear flares even larger to better fit the larger wheels.The fronts are done and just have to be edged and I'm working on the rear.The rears also need to be edged.
    5 points
  13. Put the top down and took the pooch for a ride
    5 points
  14. 5 points
  15. I found this pic searching around on Google. I think white and silver look great.
    5 points
  16. So there's a bit of progress. Before cutting away the crap there was one thing to measure, I just didn't know how. In the end I did it like this: The heater bolts on to this and since I want to put one back I am going to need this piece of metal back at the same spot... Now the cutting can continue! See: Time to start making a patch: There are a few clear and straight folds that are easy to create: 3 to be exact: Worked on the front of the patch first, lots of little flat surfaces there: Then the rear where it goes up in a curve: This is our cat, he's fantastic: Then finally I started to make it fit which involved walking back and forth from my car to the workbench 1000 times, each time measuring, comparing, bending, hammering, cutting or shaving to make it fit better. In the end it fits perfectly and I've made sure to have enough gap around it so that welding will be easy: Next up will be welding it in!
    5 points
  17. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
    5 points
  18. Small update: The patch is in. Welding took me 7-7.5 hours in 2 days alltogether I reckon. Checked for pinholes a 100 times, there are none left. Made sure water will run sideways, no vent hole anymore as the new heater won't require one. Also don't want any moist outside air to come into this car anymore, want it to be dry inside.
    4 points
  19. After 48 years, my '73 sat slightly low on the driver's side. I didn't measure it, but it could certainly be noticed looking straight on from the rear. I replaced the rear leaf springs with Eaton springs and new stock length Eaton shackles. Now the car sits even side to side. Eaton makes three different springs for our cars; Standard, Competition and Boss. I installed the Competition springs and I am happy with the selection. As far as the typical rear squat our cars have, I corrected that at the same time by cutting 1/2 coil out of the stock original front springs. Photos show stance now.
    4 points
  20. Thanks for all the kind comments and encouragement. I took her out for some air time today and she posed for a few pics at an old gas station. Check out the gas delivery truck. Price on the pumps was $.25.9 and $.27.9 for premium.
    4 points
  21. 4 points
  22. Very busy with work lately, I've postponned to update and today after been asked why there was no update, I realise I've been lazy. Sorry for that!! :O Soooooo, here some highlights of my past weekends! Not perse in chronologic order... On the 73 front, totally annoyed at that hot start prob being back (despite having a new strong batt, high torque starter) , which left me stranded in middle of nowhere for 2.5 hours till it cooled off after I had the great idea to go enjoy a big mac menu far from civilisation. So basically redid all the wires and replaced all the old gauge 4 with gauge 2 and 1 ( 50mm2) wires and I finally have a car that does start again. Did salvage and renew the original bracket and other details for a safe and clean install of the new thicker lines. Now very near of doing that FMX/AOD swap, I did a premiere for me which is to use proper tools (and reading glasses to actually see the tiny holes into the tools) to end up with my first waterproof connector ever. In this case, its the light switch on the trans side that will need be connected with the original one... Ok, I did F..up one pin and needed redo it! :D and did lay quite a few enjoyable miles with that baby till the Dutch weather decided it was enough and I should stay in the garage to work on the 71 instead! Brake calipers, you order: you install and you're done. Wrong!! Turns out, and not just the callipers, that NONE of the new parts I got were delivered with descent protection. In fact some were already rusting into their boxes!!! So each part, from pressure plate to little hardware has been plated, painted etc... Some parts, like the "pads tensionners", whatever these little brackets supposed to hold the pads on their position, were simply not of the right shape, so needed to modify them. Then found out not both sides were having same parts, worse, driver side was not even having all the necessary parts. So needed order extra to finally be able to install them, now all nicely bling bling in their matching metallic grays. Question before I forget: I have also started install stainless brake lines. But classic tube does not provide holders. I did re-plate for now the old rusty ones: anyone know where I could buy stainless ones or at least know their name to ease the search? The once rusty strut rods, now totally sexy are in place, not even close to their final adjustemnt, but just enough so all the bushings parts are all falling to their place. The sway bar too. You think you order and install... of course not. After finally have the car back on her refreshed cragars, the problem to install them wasn't the angle, it was simply that the provided rod were at least 1/2 inch too short, and that was enough to not be able to engage at least a bit the locking nuts. So went to my fav special stuffs shop and found 2 of same dimensions except they were at the right length and install became a breeze. 10 buxx gone again, simply because I didn't get the right hardware... Soon forgot all this as my eyes told me they were very pleased with what they saw once I was done with the gym session to secure the sway bar bolts! :D Bling bling is nice, but you value the shine only because there are parts that are lacking of it! Meet my next patient: The brake booster. This fine 50 years old piece of equipment known to be fine before the car was parked about 25 ago, was found to be soaked with brake fluids a few years back when I've removed it. Ordering one of these babies is no longer as before where you'd pay an extra 50buxx for the core if you did not send it back. Instead, nowdays, you pretty much have to send the unit, let it be repaired, and once back to your place after a zillions of weeks waiting, you found out that import fees, transport and the unit repair itself is an expensive thingy. For that reason, 2 years ago, I bought a Leeds, bits smaller one, thinking it'd be ok for the 71. Thx to very weird brake probs on my 73, I ended up install it on it (to find out the booster wasn't part of the prob) and because it's quite some gym to replace it, it will stay on it for a while. Time past and saw a post from David where he said he had located a kit to repair his. Long story short. I have a kit provided by David for this Bendix unit in house and because the planets were aligned the right way 2 weeks ago, I decided to repair that 71 booster... Before to be able to do anything usefull on and in it, you need first to open it. The two parts casing is hold together by tabs. The rubber squeezed in between ensures all stays sealed. Because of the push rod and shape on the other side, you need some fixture to hold everything. Lucky me, my work bench has the deluxe option that was making this a breeze. A huge wooden vice with plenty space for the 4 bolts, enough depth for the rod to have the front on top, totally secured. Note that if you plan to do this too, that its now a very good idea to mark both sides so you can realign them back exactaly how they were.. That's also when I decided to wrap the "hamburger" and keep it under pressure before slam the tabs open and have a way to prevent UFO's, as I knew there was a spring inside, but not much more.. Turns out not to be that wild! Once open, you discover it's not that of a puzzle. all you see is a piston with the rubber diaphragm, a spring and the rod that you saw going into the master cyl. And good news, as said above, the spring isn't that strong. In my case, as expected, even if I had removed loads, there was still plenty brake fluid. and while its not relly obvious on the pict, the corrosition where that matters the most (where the rubber seals), big chunks of rust had started to even ent rthe rubber. In this case, I was right on time, it will need some serious massage to ensure proper contact, but nothing really hard, also easy to reached. The fun continues! Time to remove the old paint( s) and inspect where the metal is really pitted and prep the guys for an acid bath... Once more my new German friend paint remover did that painlessly and ended end up the raw steel and rust. Spread over a few days, it's been about bathing in acid, remove the most of the pits, polish parts... At some point found out that kit isn't the right one :( Most parts like the valves rubbers are, but the diaphragm is different. Some reaserch online showed me there are 71 bendix models and 71-73 bendix models. As David aka @Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs told me it did fine for his 73, I guess I was having the 71 only model which isn't having the same piston shape. (as you can see above the profile is different) But good news is that the original rubber, in the nowadays very expensive PPPP rubber quality, was as new after a good clean. I only needed to give it extra love at the contact locations where the rust tried to push itself into it. Carefully massaging it with cloth with solvant gave me a clean smooth contact surface there. So I wasn't too disappointed the new ones were not fitting. I did not manage to free the valve from the rod, locked by a mechanism similar to engine valves and some weird pin. Too afraid to break the bakelite as it's really not ment for maintenance. Especially after a good inspection and clean up with brushes and alcohol where all looked fine, not even sure the rubber valve of the kit was the right one either, I saw no reason to risk ruining the party. If someone knows the procedure to open it, please come forward as I have a 73 to do as well! :D sssssh, bublubblebubble, zzzzziiiiii, pssshii, zzzz, weeeeee.... lots of bubbles, friction and spray noises further, the love I gave to it started to be visible... Then it was time to put it all back. Knowing exactly where it was supposed to go helped greatly and once all the freshly plated and rubbery folk was sandwiched back and secured again on my bench, the tabs needed be pushed back. David warned me I might break one or 2, but none did. I even hammered them extra to even increase the pressure and in matter of minutes I ended up with a reassembled booster. Basic pressure test told me I should be good, but I will as soon as weather permit will connect it on my 73 and let the engine run a bit to see if it really works. If it passes, it will receive as soon as the weather permits it, a good spray. Together with other few details that need to be done in same colour. For now, under a zinc jacket, it can wait. New stuffs really need be handled, top left you see that new tie rod end (that I forgot to order with the others that came last week) was already starting to rust. So after derust it also received primer, paint and coat. Each rod also got its threads plated and ended up with tie rod assembly that was looking as they should have. Found out that the idler arm bracket from Moog's, wasn't machined completely to match the long bolts going thru the frame, so carefully drilled and filed to match using the old one and been able to install the idler arm as well without damaging the paint. Another empty box could leave the garage yeeah! :D After some gym session, loads of elbow oil, I finally could see all these goodies assembled together. Only lightly tighten as I have a few more to connect on the other side. Really pleased with the results so far! I did more stuffs that I have skipped for this already way too long update, but here's a glympse of my next patient and what you might see next time... To be continued...
    4 points
  23. Been busy.. Installed a new idiot light to tacho / idiot light conversion from RCC Innovations. Works perfectly. Then installed a new front spoiler. Very happy with the new look.
    4 points
  24. I'm running 255/60R15 on 15X8 w/4.25" backspace in the front. I get a slight rub in the frame rail by the steering box on hard left turns. Reminder not to use original alignment specs with radial tires. You want as much positive caster as can be dialed in. If the tire makes contact with the front valance, you can rock the upper arm back with shims under the front shaft bolt. This moves the upper ball joint rearward, giving you more positive caster without adjusting the strut rod. https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/
    4 points
  25. Vintageman - I finally got the stand finished and the engine started. I was grinning ear to ear. My daugher come over to visit and was with me when I started it for the first time. She laughed at my facial expression. Starting was pretty easy with the Holley Sniper setup. Just took my time with all the wiring and efi pump setup. Now back to the car itself. For anyone - any comments regarding the Tremec TKX? Also, 2.5 or 3 exhaust? 3 is what is on it now. Pretty loud. It set my car alarm off 3 times. 351W EFI I short I.mp4
    3 points
  26. FINALLY!!! It’s done!! Brought it home from alignment shop tonight. Drove great. Ran good. Got it all cleaned up and ready to go home. The owner is going to come this weekend to pick it up. Another one out the door.
    3 points
  27. Plan is to start tearing into it this winter.
    3 points
  28. Weekend! Because weather was on the cold and wet side (again), no cruising :( Instead, i've returned to the Saginaw gear thingy... Unbeleivable how many parts are pushed into that thing!!! No matter what, everything needs to go out and be cleaned before even think about how you're gonna put all these back together! At some point, totally high of the cleaning thinner. All the parts inspected, sorted, cleaned and some even plated. You end up with a nice puzzle and it's time to scratch you head about where to start to put it all back together! Thx to 2 manuals, the sheet that came with the rebuild kit and some videos of more recent but similar units on youtube, I've spend the afternoon putting it back together. I won't cover in details, but know that there are 24 bearing balls for the endless worm and these turned out to be different. Each having a different colour and they need come back in an alternated pattern. On the videos that I saw it was obvious, on this unit, much less, so make sure to clean them and their yellowish patina before reinstall and keep them in different containers. Also on none of the doc I had or saw there was anything about how to put them back except it was told it was a "biatchy" experience. Most doc was saying, use tool #whatever without showing it or use a fuel rubber line, plenty jelly etc... So what I did is install the worm with plenty goo and piston without them, rotate the piston to have access to the holes, and with the worm on the farthest position, pushed them in, not forgetting the pattern while slowly turn the shaft. "Was it a dark or shiny ball I just pushed back in??" was a question returning every 2 or 3 balls! Dang it I get older! :D Eventually got them all back in, and the last remaining 8 need to be placed into the bridge (still in the alternated fashion), the bracket and screw secured and the piston can be turned back to the point where the teeth for the section shaft are visible and center. I told that before: using assembly goo made for transmission made a massive difference and became a third hand at times. I've used of course plenty ATF oil as well to make sure all was nicely lubricated. One trick I've learned from my AOD rebuild experience during the servicing of the governor nylon rings is to use a sewing needle to insert them which acting as a guide makes easy to go over the grooves you do not want to populate, because of course, as learned on the trans, they go into these and they do not want to get out easy... This unit has 4 and they come on top of o-rings. For the rear piston, inserting the big nylon ring is easy and can be done by hand, but for worm side, you have 3 grooves with each an o-ring and 3 nylons, lots of fun! The less you distord them the better and that's when it's time to push all these into the bore that you really appreciate the savings on the distortions using this little trick... The kit I've used came with all the necessary o-ring, snap rings, seals and on the exception of the cover o-ring one that comes as a nice metal plate that once folded will allow you to install the cover and remove it with ease (because during fine tuning you need remove the cover a couple of times (because you're getting old and you forgot to check the alignment of the teeth or forgot to add more oil before close). All were, at least using this kit, spot on regarding sizes and near perfect replicas of the originals. May the bushings show play/wear, you can order these separated or buy a more extended kit. Mine being in excellent condition, shaft with zero play and no visible damage, I saw no reason to go through their replacement. Once you have said a few bad words every now and then, cut your finger tip on the sharp bore inside and swore again because you used that bloody tip again while using thinner, let a ball fall on the ground because you can't hold it good using the wrong finger and spend 15 minutes locating it much further away than you'd thought possible. You end up with a not looking too bad Saginaw gear! :D Reinstalling it in the car with the restored hardware with the previously prepped pitman arm was a breeze and all connected nicely with the rest of the steering parts without a single bad word being said!! :D Tho that was for just a short moment as I found out that the coupler ordered by Rockauto wasn't the right one... So now need to contact them and see if they have the right one. And also noticed that the column is not only having a massive play, the coupler plate it's not moving up or down making the install of any coupler possible... something I did not remark a few months back as I took both coupler and gear out together. Soooo, without the right coupler and that stubborn column that will need inspection, my plan to roll the car to the street, turn it and start work on interior/floor rear is delayed... grumblegrrrr Oh well, that's part of the game! :D Oh and asked that already in a separated thread a while back but go no answer, so asking here again... I have bought classic tube stainless brake lines as they are so affordable it makes no sense to even think about making custom ones... But for some reasons, they do not come with holders. So restored for now the original ones that were really rusty so i can install. I would love to know where I could buy some new ones ( or at least the right name so I could et results of my searches). And also where to find the square nylon nuts that are pressed into the radiator support that holds the front healights brackets. Anyway, that's it for this update. Glad that the steering gear is done. It was more work than anticipated! To be continued...
    3 points
  29. Hello! I recently bought a 1972 Mach 1 and absolutely love it. I have always been partial to 1971-73 Mustang, so it feels great to finally own one of my dream cars. Until now I have been in the Foxbody world, having owned 2 mid-80s Mustangs and a 1981 Capri. My 72 was restored before I bought it, and is in very good driving condition but I don't have a lot of details about its history. I will be ordering a Marti Report. It is an H-code car but currently has 4V heads, Edelbrock Performer-4V intake and Holley 750 carb. Looking forward to learning more about tuning carburetors. I will be doing little things like restoring the engine bay to a more stock appearance (getting the ram air plenum/air cleaner assembly; relocating all the aftermarket MSD ignition stuff somewhere else so I can put the window washer reservoir back where it goes, etc). The interior is in really good shape, but the former owner cut the radio bezel to put in a modern din stereo. I ordered a replica bezel and am looking for an oem radio, preferably the 8-track stereo. I will probably hide a newer stereo in the glove box or somewhere to plug in an iPod. Not a big fan of the Custom Sound replica radios. They look pretty good, but I would prefer the original. I'm looking forward to learning and sharing information about these cars and participating in the discussions on the forum!
    3 points
  30. I put the console where it fit the shifter well , with painters tape under the screw holes in the console and marked each one with a sharpie. from there I removed the console and heated a piece of 3/16'' brake tubing with no flare red hot and simply melted thru the carpet. Stinky and hard on the eyes, but very effective, just drilled my holes from there, I could actually see where the screws needed to go. That's all I am willing to confess to today.
    3 points
  31. Found this vintage gem of a book and had to share.
    3 points
  32. Took a day off work today and spent some time in the garage working on the 65. Got it pretty much all put back together. Still have the exhaust to finish up, some interior work, and it needs a good bath and cleaning. It fit back together pretty decent. I would of aligned stuff a little better if I was painting it but there’s only so much you can do without hurting the paint. Hopefully get it lined up next week and she will be back on the road.
    3 points
  33. Without you knowing you are being a car importer that test drives his cars for a couple months before selling them.
    3 points
  34. TMeyer is getting close to producing a new cast iron Cleveland block.
    3 points
  35. WAITING!! It's creeping up on 11 years.
    3 points
  36. Harvested some bugs today with the radiator. Drove the car about 120 miles over a 4,310’ pass. Was fun but LOUD with no interior or glass
    3 points
  37. I appreciate all the input. Justinc1973 thanks for that pic, made the choice easier. My mind is made up. shouldn't be long and i'll be able to put some pics up
    2 points
  38. Is this your wedding ring on the fender?
    2 points
  39. +1. The resistor in the choke not only adds to the load and current flowing through the tachometer, it can also act as an inductor, due to it being wound around a bimetallic spring, smoothing out the pulses that the tachometer senses. The advantage to it being connected to, or triggered by, the stator is the only time the choke receives power and begins opening is when the engine is running. If you try to start it on a cold morning, and it doesn't start right away, and it is connected to a key on source, the choke begins to open as soon as the key is turned on. This may add to the cold morning starting problem due to lack of enrichment and no fast idle.
    2 points
  40. From an article I found. The choice is always yours. Are forged cranks necessary in performance engines? Yes they are in many incidences. Forged steel cranks are the way to go if you're building a hot street performance, or an all out racing engine. Many factory engines came with forged cranks. The stock small journal 327's and 283's ALL had forged steel cranks. Some of the early high performance small block Chevys such as the 67 & 68 Z/28's with the 302's, and 350's such as the 370 HP LT-1's came with forged cranks as well. So did some truck versions of the 350's. Ford did the same thing with the BOSS 302, an engine rated at 290 HP, as well as a couple of others. Yes, they obviously made more than the rated 290 HP (which was for insurance reasons), but they weren't making 400 HP like most basic performance engines of these days exceed, and sometimes by far. If they thought a cast iron crank would hold-up to less than 400 HP, or the abuse of a 4 speed manual transmission, don't you think they would have tried saving money instead of installing a more expensive forged crank? On top of this, most of the engines I mentioned also came with forged pistons, so even GM & Ford thought an all forged rotating assembly was necessary in factory engines that made less than 400 HP and with manual transmissions. The question is; why would you consider wanting a serious performance engine built with a cast crank (and pistons) if it is going to make as much (or more) HP than what any of the factory "performance" engines came with? So yes, sometimes our engines DO cost a bit more than other advertised engines do, but there is an obvious reason for it, and anyone who is building or selling cheap "performance" engines, with cast components in them, aren't even meeting the basic standards of what fairly anemic factory performance engines originally came with. There are many types of steel used for making cranks, be them cast or forged, and some cast cranks these days are stronger than original cast cranks because they are made out of cast steel rather than cast iron. There used to be just cast iron, nodular iron, and forged steel available. Now, for the most part, there's cast steel, 4130 and 5140 forged steel, and super strong 4340 forged steel available. The new cast steel cranks are very cost effective and plenty strong for even most mild racing engines if you aren't "shocking" them very hard or don;t have a manual transmission. I have seen forged cranks break in half for no visible reason at all, yet I have seen cast cranks survive season after season in mild race cars. I recommend using forged cranks in ALL serious street performance and race engines, stroker's, etc, especially if you are using nitrous or a supercharger. You have to keep in mind, a supercharger drives off the snout of the crank. Cast cranks are notorious for snapping off the snouts with large superchargers. So much so that on more serious performance supercharged small block engines that we order them with big block snouts to make them stronger. Use a cast crank in a supercharged engine and you are just ASKING for the snout to bust off, or the very rear of the crank where all 8 cylinders are twisting the crank where the crank flange meets the "load" of the vehicle. Another VERY important time to use a forged crank is on cars that have manual transmissions. Automatic transmissions are "soft" on the drive train because of the slip of the torque converter. Clutches however are brutal on the drive train and cause "impact" when the clutch is dumped. This impact can snap a weak crank, so on performance engines going into vehicles with manual transmissions, unless it is just a street cruiser, I'd highly recommend going with a forged crank. Again, GM thought it was necessary on engines making LESS than 400 HP to have forged steel cranks (and pistons) in ALL of the early 340 / 365 / 375 HP Vettes, the 302 powered Z/28's, the LT-1 350 Z/28's, and even some trucks, so why would you think it would be OK to use a cast crank in an engine that makes that much power or more? Yes, a LOT of guys do it, and get away with it... but they are on borrowed time and are just ASKING for a failure. I won't build an engine that I think is on borrowed time or that I think won't hold up to what it will be put through, and blowing the tires off on the street, accelerating with the pedal to the metal, etc IS "racing", so it has to be as strong as any "race" engine if you want it to last. Stay away from the Chinese and Taiwan made junk. I am not a fan of the Mexican made forged cranks either. Those come in all of the late model factory crate engines. Comparing those types of cranks to a high quality crank is like comparing a Chinese made 6 dollar set of sockets to a high quality / high strength set of 125 dollar Snap-On or Mac Tools sockets. There's no comparison, especially when you find-out the cheap, Chinese sockets break the first time you try to use them. Well, "steel" cranks aren't any different except for the fact that when you go "cheap" in an engine, you are asking for a MAJOR failure that takes everything else along with it. Is that worth it? No way! That's why we don't use that kind of crap in our engines, but you sure see that crap in all of the "bargain priced" magazine ad engines out there. You get what you pay for! On the flip side, you certainly don't need a $4,000 profiled, ultra light, billet steel crank like you'd find in a Nascar engine, or even an $1,800 high quality forged steel crank in well built street / strip engine, but you also certainly don't want to run a $189.00 - $289.00 piece of crap crank in an engine that is going to make some serious power, or that has a manual trans, or has nitrous, or a supercharger. A good quality, yet bargain priced forged crank will usually run anywhere from the $750 to $1,000 range depending on the variables (lightness, big block, small block, material, etc.). Yes, they cost a bit, but it's an investment in the longevity and reliability of your engine. Just remember, you get what you pay for.
    2 points
  41. It could be that your front suspension is off, throwing the rear height off. Something to consider.
    2 points
  42. Thank you good sir! They don't make a mount for the Sparco, but offered to custom make one for $15 extra, so I think you steered me to a solution. I will post back how it goes.
    2 points
  43. If there’s anyone in So Cal that would be willing to split the expenses 50/50, I’m willing to go get them.
    2 points
  44. Get yourself a nice 71 Boss 351 since now you have all that cash burning a hole in your pocket.
    2 points
  45. Had a similar situation where I was clocked at 62 in a forty zone. The motorcycle cop checked my paper work and told me him and his dad where working on installing a big block in his '69 Camaro. He said he understood my need to jump on it from time to time then said "try not to"and left. mike
    2 points
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