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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/09/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    Hi guys. So far the year 2020 has sucked big time but it gets worse: luxstang is back in town!! (Just when you thought it couldn't get worse!) I know you've been enjoying the silence but all things come to an end eventually. I've been absent for more than a year due to personal stuff happening in my life and waning interest in my Mustang but I'm trying to become an active member again. I'm honored to see that you guys purposely made an all new forum software for my return and I feel humbled and grateful for that. You shouldn't have!
  3. 3 points
    Hello Galucha, Don't discount the rarity of this vert because it's just an F code. As mpbsr stated, it must be one of the "Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious" very rare, very elusive, Frank Cone Mach 1 convertibles! Here's the deal on the lowly F code. Back when I was actively showing my Mach 1, I was approached by one of the always present car show experts and his admiring entourage. After I got schooled on all that was wrong on my car, he proceeded to tell me about the engines that were available in the 71-73's. Little did I know that all the 302's in the 71-73 Mustangs were actually Boss 302's and Ford just didn't advertise it. So....this car could actually be a Mach 1 vert with a Boss 302!! I just didn't realize how little I knew about these cars!
  4. 3 points
    Walton Hills stamping was 30 miles from Cleveland My dad was tool and die man at the Walton Hills plant when it opened in 1954 until he retired in 85 ... Ford recruited him from GM ....thank goodness or it might be Ohio Camaro supply.
  5. 2 points
    Hi Sarah a warm welcome from the South West. Looks like you have found one of the best communities for 71 to 73 Mustangs. Cheers Frank
  6. 2 points
    ...and just like that, no more lovin'! LOL
  7. 2 points
    I can change the icons...good suggestion! I'll make it much nicer! OK...took me a few minutes to find it, but the was a setting turned off for a couple groups! You guys should be good to go now!
  8. 2 points
    I think I read that B1 prices are declining so this may not be a bad time to find a decent one and haggle. I like having a rare and unusual car and drive mine often.
  9. 2 points
    For me, my first choice would be to have a go at the existing carb by stripping and cleaning everything, installing new filters and gaskets, float needles and seats, in other words drop a kit into it. There should be a number on it somewhere to identify it I would think. A basic strip and clean is not too hard to do, just take your time and pay attention. If that does not get you going, them it may be time to drop 3-400 bucks on a new carb.
  10. 2 points
    Well, interesting comments here to your request. So, you indicate no numbers matching, concourse car’s therefore the $119k car is not a good example for your purposes. There are many on the various resell web sites for sale, all in various state of true B1 configuration.... IMO, a Boss without its original driveline is just another fastback with an “R” in the VIN. The price you pay for such a vehicle should reflect this lack of originality... Good original driver Boss’s should be available in the $40k+ price point. You have to decide what is important to you in a Boss forvthe $$$ you want to spend. Good luck in your search.
  11. 2 points
    I just added a NEW and Improved Member Map tot he forum! It is nicely integrated into the forum and I hope IPB's map is more long lasting than MyBB's...but with that in mind, please don't get mad if the map does break or stop working suddenly in he future...these maps are fun but the map API's seem to change so often that plugin authors can't keep up and then the map breaks! This one seem pretty well supported so hopefully it will be on here for a good, long time! It's pretty east to use...you can use your GPS position or type in a general location. If you use your GPS location, it will scrub your actual address and just put your marker in the general vicinity for security. You can enter your exact location if you wish. The map is also tied into te calendar so it will show event locations and also Clubs so if you start a club, it will feature a location for your club as well! You'll also find a mini location map of your location in your profile page! I'm not sure I even know every thing this new map can do so have at it and have FUN!! The link in in the top Nav Bar under Forum Info or click here: https://7173mustangs.com/forums/membermap/
  12. 2 points
    I was following this thread closely. I am glad you found it and solved the problem. Excellent case study for publication. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  13. 2 points
    Smack the top of the dash a couple times when it stops working. It's nearly 50 year old electronics.
  14. 2 points
    To all the purists, deal with it. I need my back up cam in all of my cars and with this Mustang, new to me I definitely need it, hard to see out that window. My car is just a driver, no more concours shows for me. With that said, I am slowly putting my interior back together, today I installed my new mirror with backup monitor and I also installed a dash cam. I did not want a "strap on" monitor for the backup camera so I replaced the mirror with one that contains a monitor. Getting the wire under the metal trim was a bear as the connection from the monitor to the hard wire ended up under the trim and it was a tad thick, but I did it. Also put in a dash cam, I run them in all of my cars, crazy drivers here in GA. Camera is mounted to the top holes in the license plate, painted the body white to try to blend in with the plate a bit, the wire shows a bit in the picture, still need to tuck that in.
  15. 2 points
    Ah, Eureka moment! The "unread content" is what I was looking for, just more concise . I'll use that more in future and I expect others will follow suit. For me, computer stuff is not my bag. Heck, I even had to have my son show me how to set up a new folder today. It was easy for him, not so much for me. I'll stick to mechanical things.
  16. 2 points
    Heres my attempt to video my install of the Hood Lock Kit (32 piece from Ohio Mustang Supplies) since I was not able to find any YouTube videos on this...don't hate... I'm just a learning as I go and sharing back what I am in case someone else can use it -) https://youtu.be/T0qUKwTL43g
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    They are aluminum. Should not be painted!! Ray
  19. 2 points
    the reality is it doesn't restrict flow ans the bottom of the port doesn't flow well and creates a lot of turbulence. Now if you put a huge cam and high compression slugs in the engine, then that extra space can be used above 3500 rpm, but on a stockis to 350-400 hp motor, it is just dead space
  20. 2 points
    I'm sure my wife will have a very strong opinion as to where to stick it...
  21. 2 points
    I like it! Thanks for all the hard work, Barry!
  22. 2 points
    Background tasks will be running all night to hopefully rebuild the images and quotes from all the older posts...don't be alarmed...yet. LOL!!
  23. 1 point
    It's probably 1/8 size plastic replicate. LOL, Let's us know I've been wrong lots of times.
  24. 1 point
    Hello Sarah and welcome from SW Ontario Canada. Trust me, not all Mustang owners in Germany are "unfriendly". There are several really great members on this Forum from Germany and I'm sure you'll be hearing from them soon. As for your car, it sounds like a good car, but like many, has been "upgraded". Add some pictures if you can. Don't be afraid to ask questions, we're here to help. Stanglover (Geoff)
  25. 1 point
    Hello Sarah, and welcome to the site from Michigan. Great story about your car. Hopefully you get everything all figured out and you can drive it and have some fun. There are people on here that know absolutely everything about these cars.
  26. 1 point
    Welcome from west Michigan! I think you've found the best group of Mustang enthusiasts on the web.
  27. 1 point
    Couldn't a more neutral icon be used for "like" rather than a . Usually the means "love." Like is usually a or equivalent. Just feels a little weird to say "I love something" when I really mean to say "I like something." Personally, when I agree with someone I wouldn't hesitate to "like" their comment but "loving" it is a little much, most of the time. (unless it's something Mister 4X4 is saying! )
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    That's probably all you need, but don't be afraid to have a go at your existing carb as it's not too old. It may only need a good cleaning. It doesn't take much to gum up the works. Your choice of course, a little work or a load of money.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    And there ya go - general consensus is that if you monkey with things no matter how subtle or 'invisible,' you'll mess up the car and bring down 'the value.' Well, they're really not worth anything until the day of the sale... or the insurance adjustment, if that's the case. Just like any other investment, you won't see any return value until you cash out. If that's the goal - go for it, I say. If you're really not worried about 'numbers-matching,' or 'concourse condition,' look into getting a 'lesser' model, adding some performance mods and have something even more potent than a Boss 351. I know mine is pushing 400hp at the crank - if I'd gone with a 4-speed and 3.50 or better gears. I'm pretty sure I could smoke a Boss 351 in short order (not a goal of mine by any means, of course). Even with an AOD and 3.00 gears, it moves out smartly and is a lot of fun to drive. The sky's the limit with restomodding - go as crazy or conservative as you like and come out ahead of the game, while not dicing up a rare and/or collectible car. My mods are mostly performance enhancing with some period-correct cosmetic mods, because I wanted what I would've built back in the '80s had I been able to have one back then. One more piece of advice (that you kind of eluded to in your original post): always start with the best car you can afford, but make sure it fits into your plan so you don't over-buy and wind up back-tracking. For instance, if you have a specific color in mind, maybe that one with the faded paint turns out to be the best deal (since a color change is planned anyway). Some folks will buy an I-6 or 302 car to build a race car, then drop in a big-block or Coyote 5.0... or one with an automatic and swap-in a manual. Build it how you like - you'll just enjoy it just that much more.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    I figured it was worth making a few notes on my installation experience, for anyone curious in the future. The installation was pretty straightforward, but the instructions from CAA are vague in some areas and downright inaccurate in others. It wasn't all that hard to improvise. Here are a few tips: 1. You do not need to pull the whole dash. You do need to remove the top of the dash, glove box door/insert, passenger kick panel, and center console. Speedo panel optional, I left it in place, but it would give you more room to work with for the driver's side duct. I recommend pulling the passenger seat also, as it will give you more room to work with. This is especially important when removing the factory heater box. 2. While you are back there, run the orange wire loom for the heater valve through the firewall. It's also a good spot to run your own wire out to the engine bay which will eventually connect to the high pressure switch. The wires on the switch itself are not nearly long enough to reach, so you need your own wire 3. Before installing the CAA heater box, install the drip tube and install the defrost ducts to the correct ports on box. Much easier to fish the drip tube out the firewall into the engine bay than vice versa. With the defrost ducts, It's very hard to reach those ports once the box is installed with the dash in place. 4. You can *barely* reach the drivers vent with the supplied ducting. You also have to end up using one of the ports marked for the center section. Not a big deal, since they all shoot out air the same. But it won't reach if you use the designated port. The side vent adapters supplied are also way to big. Literally only one side will mount. Move both clips to the outside edge and mount to the factory vent. The ducting will pull it and keep them securely in place. The center adapter was too small. I had to cut it on the side to get it to mate up. 5. I tapped into the brown wire with orange stripe which went to the original heater switch for power. It is connected directly to the fuse box, 30A if you had factory air. CAA calls for a 20A fuse, you can easily swap it out. Well, those were the main issues. If I think of anything else, I will update this post. Thanks!
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Interesting. This video shows a small black piece they seemed to have discarded and did not reinstall, and the remnants of the blue filter they also omitted. There's a video by West Coast Cougar that includes both of these.
  36. 1 point
    That can be welded if the guy knows what he's doing. Cast can be a bitch to weld but its doable. Depends on the porosity of the casting and how much iron content is in the block. I would pull the motor out of the car. Put it on a dolly or work bench. You need to clean the shit out of the area to be welded and the piece. Need to then heat up the piece and the area to be welded with a torch. I would also grind a taper on the piece and the block. Preheating is your friend with this. Best way would be to tig weld since you can concentrate your heat much better than stick welding. I would use a high content nickel rod. If you cant get it tig welded you can always stick weld it. Same process with cleaning and preheating, but the stick welder is harder to contain the heat. I have had decent luck using a stainless steel rod when stick welding a block. If you take it to someone that knows how to weld good, you shouldn't have any trouble fixing that right up.
  37. 1 point
    I grew up in AMCs hometown of Kenosha, Wi. Dad started working there at age 18 and retired 40 years later in 99. The stories I can tell on AMC cars. New a guy with 1 of the prototype rumble seat fiberglass AMX’s. Had a high school buddy with a Gremlin with a nasty 401. Could carry the front wheels 40 feet. Worked on plenty of Rebels, Marlins, Javelins, AMX’s, Matadors, and jeeps. My daily in high school the 9 months the 72 was parked was a 76 Pacer. Bought it for $50 and sold it two years later for $50 for the leaf springs. Again, aaaalot of stories I could share
  38. 1 point
    Misc. items for sale on Ebay & Craigslist for 1971-1973 Mustang - https://www.ebay.com/usr/1972pony Also have a few Sheet metal items for 1971-1973 Mustang - located in Lawrenceville, Ga
  39. 1 point
    Hey Mike! Glad ya found your way back! Hope everything keeps getting better and better... for all of us riding around on this rock (what's up with this crazy year, anyway? Oh yeah... "America's having another one of those 'Election Years.'" Sorry 'bout that, everybody).
  40. 1 point
    You and your mechanic will say, yes now this is an intake! Lol That performer intake is just basically a stock replacement to go with a square bore carb. I’m sure you will be very happy with the BT.
  41. 1 point
    Thanks guys—our cable modem/router is about a year old, so we are good there. Several Facebook friends also recommended a mesh system and specifically Eero. I have ordered the 3 beacon one, pricey, but everybody with one raves about it. It’s either great or you just want me to be as miserable with my internet as you are—LOL. Thanks for the suggestions!
  42. 1 point
    Welcome from Iowa! Nice rides!
  43. 1 point
    I did 3 things today. I watched my parts pile get bigger because when it's over 100 outside, I hate working in the garage. Inside in the A/C, I hogged out the guts of my 8 Track player that was inop. Probably took 7 pounds out of it. Those things are insanely heavy. It will sit in my dash hollowed out but with my Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon 8 Track in it just for show. The real stereo controlled by bluetooth on my phone will be in the glovebox. I put on my new 7173mustangs.com sticker. Lazy Sunday, but oh well.
  44. 1 point
    The internal to this site (top of page - right) Search engine is working VERY WELL Sure looks like a good improvement over other software versions for this site. Give it a try and see what you think. IMHO So far so good! Ray
  45. 1 point
    The only source I know of is Zolatone Series 20. Link: https://tcpglobal.com/pages/search-results-page?q=zolatone The 1971 color is lighter than the 1972/73 color. You may try some auto paint stores. Numbers are: PPG DX-1756, DuPont 389-257, Sherwin Williams J4-3821. Please double check my data before buying anything. You will need a special gun with a large tip to spray the Zolatone. It doesn't cover quickly and 1 quart just was enough for my trunk. Let us know what you find. Chuck
  46. 1 point
    Great work Rocket, I checked and my missing pics are there. Thank you for getting this done for us. Tom
  47. 1 point
    Lol, thanks. Like I said right in front of me, Thanks again.
  48. 1 point
    of who most are driving mini vans and don't have a car of their own at the show
  49. 1 point
    How big do you want to go?
  50. 1 point
    For sure do the dash assembly on the bench or a stand. When you go back in a couple extra hands are great also. One thing on all the wiring under the dash. You can buy rolls of the non stick wrapping tape they use and make it look much better. Clean all the connection for any of the wiring with steel wool wire brush, whatever it takes to get any corrosion off and apply the electrical grease to every connection and every light bulb base. I cannot get to my pictures of doing my vert but to keep any critters from ever getting in the car I put 1/4" box wire over the connection of the heater box to the cowl. The repo heater box foam sucks in some areas. They do give you two pieces of foam for the connection to the cowl so I put the mesh wire between the foam pieces. If you do not have AC then you will need to put over the air vent on the passenger side also. Then I also zip tie a piece of the wire mesh on the back side of the cowl vent plastic grills. I spray the wire mesh flat black and you can not even see it. The holes in the plastic pieces are large enough for snakes and mice to get in and build a nest in the cowl. On each end of the cowl there is a drain for water I take a stainless steel pot scrubber pad and cut off a piece and put in each side. This closes off all areas of access for critters to the cowl. When you are putting your windows back in I like to use the Lucas Red N Tacky #2 grease instead of the old white grease. Lube the window regulators, channels, guide rods and rollers and you will be amazed how easy they roll up and down. As stated by another member have your roof rail weather strip in place to adjust your windows and also have your door seals on and doors adjusted. I would leave the door panels and rear side panels off until just about finished. Getting the up stops and tilt on the windows will take some time. If the windows go up too far will be hard to close the doors and will push the glass out of position. Also be sure all the water drain holes in the bottom of the door and quarter panel in front of the rear wheel are open so that any rain water can get out. I would brush some sealer inside the doors and quarter if the body shop did not but you have to have drains open. I do not know what your radio is but the bezel has a different opening size depending on what you have. AM, AM/FM uses the same bezel. The AM / 8 Track has a taller opening. There is a couple ground wires under the dash you need to get back on and good clean surface. In the center for the fan I believe and if you have convenience group a couple for the lights under the dash. There are copies of the assembly manuals available from Osborne reproductions in Georgia also. They are hard to read lines are so faint. They are what the assembly line had to go by. You have the fold down so be sure you put the trim that goes across the car in the very back in place before you install the rear window. You cannot put in or take out with window in place. I just do not have most of my pics so cannot post any for reference.
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Founded:
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By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

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