Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/25/2015 in all areas

  1. Oh boy had I been looking forward to this! Got to work on the engine yesterday for my birthday. Installed an Edelbrock 2750 intake, Edelbrock 1406 carb, new valve covers, air cleaner and ignition coil. Had not planned on the coil, but when I was taking the old one off the top of it just crumbled to pieces. Still have to work on the throttle bracket alignment and maybe see if I can get a new kickdown cable kit to replace the rod because the alignment is not right. Going to try a chrome universal throttle bracket and see if that fixes the alignment for it.
    1 point
  2. Hi to all, I'll bring you up to speed on HVLP versus conventional gravity feed production refinish sprayguns. HVLP guns have been around quite a few years now and with their arrival on the refinish scene, they created somewhat of a revolution around the world. Their big claim to fame, lies in two areas. One, they use less material than a conventional spraygun, and two, they create less fumes when you are applying the paint to the surface. By fumes i mean the clouds of atomized paint that are produced when spraying paint, and fill up your spraybooth or room in which you are spraying in. And that's it. That's really all an HVLP gun has over a conventional spraygun. HVLP means high volume low pressure. The concept of a HVLP gun revolves around how the paint you're spraying is atomized through the gun nozzle. HVLP guns atomize the paint differently than conventional guns because the nozzle or setup design allows for more volume of paint to be atomized, but sprayed at a lower air pressure. It's all to do with the transfer efficiency rate (TER) of the paint you're spraying. What is TER. You start with liquid paint in your paint cup, and that paint is to be applied to your panel you're spraying. You want to apply that paint in the most effective way you can from gun cup to panel. You don't want to waste your paint when you are spraying it on by letting it end up in the atmosphere around you, and not on the panel you're spraying. That's what TER is all about. It's getting that paint on your panel, with minimum wastage. HVLP guns have a better TER than conventional sprayguns do, and hence, use less paint material when spraying. That's the big thing that's wowed the refinish world over the years, less paint used, less wastage, and less fume created. I say, big deal to that. Why? Because i've used both types of gun over the years, and have gotten the same results that I've talked about above by using my conventional guns. How so you say. It's all about the gun technique or the manner in which you spray your paint on your panel. When HVLP guns arrived on the scene many years ago, spraypainters had to be reeducated in how to spray with them. You have to use a different gun technique with an HVLP gun. Firstly, you have to use a much faster stroke speed and secondly, you have to hold the gun at a much closer distance from the surface of the panel you're spraying. These two things are crucial to using the gun. You have to do these things. There are high solid clears and medium solid clears around today in the 2 Pack clear scene. When spraying with an HVLP gun, you can apply 1 to 1-1/2 coats of HS clear, or when using MS clear, 1-1/2 to 2 coats of clear is all that's needed. HS clear was brought out to work in conjunction with HVLP guns. When spraying with a conventional gun, I like using MS clear, and I apply 2 coats of that under most situations. Sometimes, I may put on 3 coats when needed for a better film build. Now here's the thing. These two gun techniques mean that you are going to get a much better TER when applying your paint, but ever since i started using conventional gravity fed sprayguns many years ago, i myself have used the same gun technique of faster stroke, less trigger pull and closer to the panel, and got the same results as with an HVLP gun, that is less paint used and less fume created. I have proven that the secret lies in gun technique or how you apply the paint to the panel that matters. That's why i come back to and prefer to use a conventional gun over an HVLP gun. I get better film build control, and better flow control, because i use the similar HVLP gun technique of faster stroke and closer to the job with less trigger pull, when i spray. I end up using much less paint and get less fume when spraying. It's all in the gun spraying technique for a better TER. It's well known that the further you hold your spray gun away from the panel, the worse your TER becomes, the closer the better your TER is. So lastly,for example, have a look at the Sharpe conventional guns. I would be wanting to get a 1.4 setup for basecoat and clearcoat applications. Look at Razor and Finex FX 2000. I think Finex was what Turtle (Kevin) ended up with. Your references - http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Finex+FX2000 http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/RAZOR+Conventional Many thanks, Greg.:)
    1 point
  3. Mine had that problem and I replaced the cable and the problem was solved. I think after a while the grease dries out in the speedo cable. You may be able to grease it if you want to try it. I not sure if its worth the hassle on a 40 year old part. John J
    1 point
  4. ...and lets not forget the Ford ZH LTD. In my younger days there was a light metal flake blue XB Falcon coupe getting around town with one of these LTD fronts on it (apparently the fronts just bolted straight on, no metalwork required). I remember thinking it was just about the bizarrest coolest thing I'd ever seen. Those P6 (and P5) LTD's are fantastic cars. Big, roomy and oh so comfortable, just like driving a lounge chair and once they get moving, are a great cruiser on the highway with plenty of stick in them. I actually sold my P6 Silver Monarch LTD last year (along with my XC GXL) as I had too many cars and needed to thin the heard a bit. In a way I wished I had of kept it, but if I had maybe I wouldn't have purchased the XA GS, which is a car I've been wanting for long time.
    1 point
  5. . lol, thats overkill but a nice set up . . i use the wide band on fmx trannies . . i believe you need a wider drum or at least a new drum with the wider band . . the wider drum may require more discs, i dont remember. the links i gave you should have the other parts you requested. in case they dont tell you, soak the plates and band in tranny oil for 30 minutes first. circlips A36878B = .076” http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=1992dc0f593ec83adca1850c9d43c5ec&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A36878B A36878C = .085” http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=1992dc0f593ec83adca1850c9d43c5ec&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A36878C A36878 = ? contact for info. http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=1992dc0f593ec83adca1850c9d43c5ec&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=A36878D .
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-05:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...