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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2016 in all areas

  1. David, I've been watching/reading this thread for a while. I was going to use a Southern expression "I'm keeping my dog outa this fight"! Lol Even though I have a pretty good handle on how these cars left the factory, you can get into trouble REAL fast when you contradict someone who believes or was told that is how their vehicle looked when new. Your dealing with cars over 40 years old and many with multiple owners, dealer/owner modifications, half A$$ body repairs by bondo queen body shops, etc. So...now I'll step into the mud hole and say that Don (OMS) is correct. There was only one molding listed for 71-72 regardless of which panel (honeycomb or camera case) was used. The moldings were black to the inside of the of the molding that faced the finish panel. The no paint moldings were a 73 only part. With QC checks at the supplier, then again at Ford parts receiving, it's highly unlikely that a part missed the paint process and made it to the assembly line. There were several other inspection points and of course the dealer pre delivery process. As David said there were cost saving things done to cover the increased costs of safety and emissions required items on the 73's. The black on the 71-72 taillight's and panel moldings were a PIA to the vender, so the No paint" on the 73 items was a start. I believe it's your car and your preference as how you want it to look. And yes they are a pain to install. While I'm sticking my neck out, I'll add that the rear valance with exhaust cut outs to clear the "Trumpet" chrome exhaust tips was cataloged as a 63R (Mach 1) application when equipped with any production 4bl engine. There again I sold a pile of those valances as everyone liked the "Look". The other models were cataloged with a muffler and tail pipe with a turn down pipes. So we had to have the body style (63D,R-65,76 etc) before we could order any exhaust system parts. Hope I haven't muddied the waters much!!
    1 point
  2. The stance on that car is just mean. Front tires tucked just a touch, rocker panel looks pretty level with the ground. I like it.
    1 point
  3. "timing at ~3K rpm is high 20's (thats with both vacuum hoses on vac advance). Seems low... should be over 30 but not more than 36 right? How do I get it there? I remembered I had not adjusted the hex nut inside the vacuum module axial port, so I went out and played with that some, maybe some improvements, but nothing at the high end." I suggest inspecting the breaker plate for mechanical binding or the small round plastic glides being damaged or missing (I'm assuming OEM distributor). If those are good, carefully remove the breaker plate and inspect the mechanical advance, checking for binding of the weights. Look to see what numbers are stamped on the advance limit stops. The one being used will have a stop pin covered with black "rubber" in the slot. If it is stamped 13L that means 26 degrees of mechanical advance at the crank, when it is all in. 15L means 30 degrees etc.. Just my thoughts on the matter. Chuck
    1 point
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