Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/07/2019 in all areas

  1. RC92234, Have to agree with most of bentworker has to say. I have used tap exractors in the past with pretty good success, however you have to ask yourself (why did the tap break in the first place ?) you CANNOT expect the tap to do it's job if the hole is drilled off center. a magnetic base drill would have done wonders here ! I would suggest at this point , that you remove the timing chain cover and carefully clean up the old gasket material so you can better see where the bolt centers are or (were). Then and only then attempt to use a tap extractor. Ask yourself (how much torque was I applying when the tap broke ?) Find the angle of the broken tap before attempting to use a tap extractor. If you were NOT using a lot of torque when the tap broke, you might just get lucky. Probably shouldn't tell anyone this. but I once removed a broken tap (miles out in the woods) by using the remaining piece of tap and pieces of a hex key and 2 nuts of the tap size, my buddy said the tap just broke for no reason. Yes it came out pretty easy. An old machinist once told me , if you drop a tap on a concrete floor, to throw that tap away, or it will bite you. if you get to a point where you are going to try to use a heli-coil, I might suggest using the water pump as a drill guide (providing the remaining threads are clean. and leave timing cover (OFF) or NOT using the 3 threaded holes in the cover. Once you have a hole started use a magnetic base drill (even though you may have to remove the radiator. Boilermaster
    1 point
  2. Yup, a bit better than earlier today. Thanks, Rocketfoot. Can you make the icon a "go-pedal"??? Tee hee...
    1 point
  3. I'd bet the argent from the 71-73 standard grille would be darn close. ...or some styled steel wheel paint https://www.npdlink.com/product/paint-styled-steel-wheel-gray-correctly-matched-to/107681?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dgrille%252Bpaint%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1971&year=1971
    1 point
  4. I'm no help, but I recently purchased the same model truck and have been bringing it back to usable status. Quite the task, but it is all done except for the rear fuel tank and some cosmetic body repair. Good luck
    1 point
  5. No all three are differant Although you can take a coupe one and cut it to make the convertible
    1 point
  6. I believe the EDM method is also called Laser Cutting. I had my machine shop do one bolt I had stuck in a block, and then they welded and re-drilled the hole. It worked out great.
    1 point
  7. “A series of unfortunate event” for sure, but you have a great attitude about moving on and getting the problem resolved. Good luck with getting it done and getting your car back on track.
    1 point
  8. Detroit's not too far, there are 2 complete engines, a 0.030" over short block (pass) and a motor minus the crank on CL at the moment. There's also a guy up by Flint that has parted out dozens of 71-73's that has a couple of 351C's. If you search the Detroit Metro CL under 'Auto Parts' with '351C' and '351 Cleveland' you'll find them. This popped up on the Ashtabula CL, air cleaner says 4V as well, sounds like an ok deal if its an M-code: https://ashtabula.craigslist.org/pts/d/ashtabula-351-cleveland-motor-and/7005919425.html -Matt
    1 point
  9. Its tough to tell from your pictures what's going on. It looks like the shifter mounting plate from a Super Shifter or V-gate, but I can't tell if that's a Super Shifter or not. If it is an SS, that shifter is designed to mount farther off the side of the trans so that the linkage is in a straight line to the arms on the trans for racing and needs a giant hole in the floor to accommodate it. Whatever it is, it is too high off of the trans and too far forward (as you have noticed!). Also, the tag on the passenger side of the trans (RUG-M something I think is a 68-69 Mustang/ Cougar FE?) assumes that nobody has modified the transmission (swapped talkshaft housings, input shafts etc.). Can you see the casting number on the tailshaft housing? If you poke around on David Kee's site you may be able to compare tailshaft housing pics to yours and at least figure out what you have: http://www.davidkeetoploaders.com/tailhousingid.htm I'm pretty sure that if that tailhousing is really for an FE Mustang, it won't position the sifter in the right spot in a Mustang if its bolted to a small block- you need a tailshaft housing for a small block Mustang. If you could locate a tailshaft housing for a small block Mustang you could then use a Competition Plus shifter to get the handle back in the center of the original floor opening to allow using the console. But that is a lot of expensive if's... -Matt
    1 point
  10. When searching, you may come across a place called Aus Ford Parts. They are about an hour drive from me and claim to have Australian blocks, heads, etc. They only accept cashier checks and supposedly ship only after they have the check in hand and cashed. When I was looking for a block I emailed them 3 times, telling them I would like to show up with cash in hand and take delivery at their shop. I never heard back from them, so wonder if they really have the blocks, or just want the checks. They also sell on eBay, so there would/should be some protection there, just be careful when and if you deal with them.
    1 point
  11. On my 71 Mach 1 in Light Pewter, code V, the total job cost me 10 grand Canadian in 2014. The paint alone, base and clear was around 2 grand and the paint had to be custom matched as there was no corresponding formula in base/clear. The paint supplier camera'd original, un-faded paint under the rear window metal piece (Valence?) The modern paint has more metallic in it and it came out a little darker, probably due to the air pressure used, but all-in-all, I have had no complaints at shows and many compliments. The only issue was mostly my fault as when I instructed the painter to set the hood black-out 2" from the front of the hood, I forgot that the 1" trim was not yet installed, resulting in the black-out being 3" from the front, not 2" (approx.) In my case, I had zero rust issues and only a few bumps and bruises to take car of. I actually got a good deal on it as the body guy was not busy at that time, so he did most of the reassembly work for me plus I got a couple of months free winter storage out of the deal, so I was laughing. Here's a pic of the car at the Dearborn Mustang Memories car show last August when it picked up a "Class Winner" plaque. Geoff.
    1 point
  12. I rarely drill them anymore. I weld a nut to the stud sticking out. And use a ratchet to remove like a normal bolt. Even if the bolt is broke almost flush I can usually get my mig welder down into the nut and fill it with weld to penetrate the broken bolt. The high heat helps loosen the bolt also. Works for me almost every time.
    1 point
  13. A hammer and pin punch is a good first step. I would grab a pin punch that is the size of the minor diameter of the thread or a little smaller and give the broken bolt a few good raps with the hammer and pin punch - with the pin punch square to the broken fastener. Next I'd get a center punch and do your best to punch the broken fastener right in the center. Drill the broken fastener with a pilot bit, then choose a drill about 2/3rds the diameter of the broken fastener. IE- use a 1/4" drill on a 3/8" bolt. Drill the pilot all the way through the broken fastener, that way you can squirt some penetrating oil in there and get it working in from both sides of the fastener. I've never used a left hand drill bit because 95% of the time you need an extractor anyway. Buy some good extractors - you can get some from McMaster-Carr. You don't want to skimp here since this is what is going to make the difference between extracting the bolt, or having to drill it out and helicoil it. Use lots of penetrating oil. Use the extractor to remove what is left of the bolt. https://www.mcmaster.com/extractors
    1 point
  14. If I remember correctly, go look up Dark Horse Racing. They have a '72 they track race. And I'm pretty sure you can pick up a whole fiberglass front end, doors and the trunk lid.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...