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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/20/2019 in all areas

  1. My first car, bought for $1,200 in 1982 was a 1971 Mustang convertible. 2V 351C, deluxe interior, decor group, power windows, full instrumentation, it had everything. It had been rear ended (damage limited to bumper and rear trunk panel), needed a top end rebuild (too many nights at the NHRA Friday night races didn't help). I joined the Navy and purchased another car. The condo association was pestering my parents about using three spaces and wanted it gone. I was waiting to see if I would get my promotion to E-4 and would use the raise entirely for storage and to slowly get it all fixed. The sad part is I found out I was getting promoted on a Thursday. Since I was driving home that weekend I decided to surprise them when I got there early Saturday morning. My Dad had sold it on Friday :( Had I called, I'd still have that car. Dad said he sold it for $900, but I learned later it was only $600 and he pitched in $300. Well, at 52 and retirement only 3-4 years away it was time to replace my car. (We can call it a midlife crisis). I now feel even MORE ill thinking about losing that car discovering how rare all those options are. However, pending only a vehicle inspection I have purchased an M code '71 convertible. However, it's otherwise mostly a base model. I hope to pick it up soon!! After I retire I'd like to convert the interior and retro everything to the interior I had, other than using 3rd party front seats, rebuild the engine, new paint, etc. Wondering if there is anything in converting to deluxe and decor group that would be unusually difficult. I would also toss most everything pulled out into the attic or garage and save it. I'm also considering at least a minor restomod and will be looking at ideas from others. Maybe newer instrumentation, stereo, Mach 1 hood (love those). No Mach 1 stripes though, I don't want to even imply it's a Mach 1 :) Anyway, I'll soon be a regular user of "Search", followed by posting a question already answered because I used the wrong words in search :) Here's the pic and link on the new car. I'd be surprised if the current owner isn't on this site. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/ford/mustang/2305427.html#
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  2. Before and after i was very happy with the results. the texture came out well. not exactly like original texture but good enough for who it's for. The new finish is also harder than i expected after sanding the old dirty, chalky crap off and using my primer to bond the surface and the SEM texture coating then the dye paint over that.. At least i can't scratch it off with my fingernails like before. the bucket seat back panels turned out the same way. So now i need to get started with the new upholstery. Wayne
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  3. Welcome from another convertible guy. One consideration for upgrading to the deluxe interior, is that there are a couple of pieces of bracketing to attach the door pull that aren't included with the door card, and I'm not sure if they will come with an aftermarket door pull either. As far as mods go, take your time and really consider what you like and don't like. Lots of choices out there, and everyones tastes are different. Good luck with the journey. Keep us posted (with pictures)! Scott
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  4. This car needs more work then is being advertised, sorry Mr David. As someone that has done this, it is all the hidden issues plus the costs associated with restoring, locating all the missing pieces. It will add up big time in the end... Not saying anything about your price, I know I overpaid for mine when I bought my J Code vert, but I also underestimated the additional costs to actually restore the car back to a near #1 level. $10's of 1000's under estimated... Good luck with the sale.
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  5. Welcome from Eastern PA. I still have my first car and it was a huge struggle to keep it as I moved around. My 72 Conv sat in my current garage for over 25 years. I just started the process last year to get it running and stopping. Just put a new front suspension this month. It makes me very happy to have it back. CV 72 Mustang.
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  6. Very nice car! Both my cars are options loaded with deluxe interior. I don't think there is any technical installation problems going from base to deluxe/options. The problems are more on the color side of things and some 71 only parts. Like the 71 button bezel on a deluxe door for power windows (if you have located the power windows mechanism+harness first). The defrost option might also be challenging. For seats and some plastics, if you go black or white (as you have now), you can still can find some (pricy) re-pops like the deluxe door panels. If you go for ginger, blue or green interior (if the colour was originally something else than white) all becomes more complicated and chances you'd find some in mint condition are near zero. I saw few ginger deluxe panels on E-bay offered for lots but not really better than mine. I would not even consider to put them back in this kind of state. So I'd say, prepare yourself to learn a few (new) disciplines to make what you can't find or mod others. Once retired, you'll have plenty time to enjoy the hobby! Welcome from the northern Netherlands
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  7. Welcome from Ohio. Good luck on getting you car. Looks like it is a nice one.
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  8. Welcome from another convertible guy!
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  9. Welcome to the forum. I had looked at that car previously seems to have some great options and looks to be a solid car. You asked about going to the deluxe interior. The biggest difference is the arm rest and the inside door handle and mechanism. I think you have to replace some of that. Also the deluxe steering wheel has different center or a three spoke rim blow. In 72 & 73 you got the deluxe interior in all convertibles I think. The other barrier you will have is getting the comfort weave seat covers. They do not make them just fake printed comfort weave. Last time I checked with SMS upholstery they were out of the real comfort weave material. You already have the convenience group looks like so door panels and seats are the only changes you would be making. The repo door panels do not come with any of the trim so you will need to locate donor panels but coupe, vert and fastback are all the same. The top will need replacing soon but can fix the hole from the back side also. Kee tops in Charlotte, N.C. makes really nice tops. When you do the top there will probably be rust in the rain gutter around the back that will need some attention. Also when the top is off be sure to go through the front latches and rebuilt / repair. You cannot get them apart with the top on so do while it is off. If you can locate another frame you can actually rebuild the entire frame and just swap them out. I preach to the forum about never washing these cars with running water or car wash. You just feed the rust inside the doors, quarters and cowl when you do. Just wiping with wet microfiber towels will do fine and not keep the rust alive. The inside back panels do not have speaker holes either. They are impossible to find and 71 is a one year thing also. You have the door speakers and the grills for 71 are also a one year thing. One center bar on the back side 72 & 3 had two or three I forget. I have 5 of them sitting around here.
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  10. Welcome from Central New York. Mike
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  11. Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Good luck with your new ride!
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  12. Welcome from Iowa. Good luck with the purchase.
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  13. Yeah, I think most of us wish we still had some of our early cars, and a lot of us had to give up them up when entering the military. I'm glad you're able to realize your dream. Welcome to the forum, from Oregon.
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  14. The electrical systems on cars suck, lol. It is so difficult to get to them is big issue. If you have lots of issues it is probably best to remove the entire dash as an assembly. Sounds bad but not actually. Only like 8 bolts that hold it in. Just getting to a few of them is tough. One is hidden under the steering column which has to be dropped to get dash out. You remove instrument cluster after dropping column. I would remove the front seats before you start and console also. Once the instruments out remove the upper dash and pad. Then you can get to the bolts on the top. 73 models have a couple extra phillips screws in center area. You have to unplug all the connections in both kick pad areas. Take the bolt loose in the center of the fuse box and get the dash harness unplugged from the under hood harness. We do have a member, Midlife, that restores wire harness. He is shut down right now due to home repairs from storm damage. You can attempt some on your own. Get you a tube of permatex electrical grease. You will have to spend hours and days cleaning every connection with steel wool wire brushes etc. to get any corrosion off. Then when you make a connection brush on a little of the electrical grease. Grounds are very important. There is a ground connection in the middle of the dash that goes to the cowl area wish I had a pic but lost them. With the dash out the snowball keeps growing. Best time ever to remove the heater box and replace the heater core and all the foam pieces on the doors inside. Do research on rebuild West Coast Cougar has great video on their site. Test out your heater AC fan and the vacuum controls. A brake bleeder will test the vacuum motors. The tail lights are a real pain also. Getting all the sockets clean, contacts clean, test each bulb and clean the bases and contact points. Apply the electrical grease when you go back together. Due to the plastic tail light housing each light has it's own ground which needs to be spotless and add the grease. Test the lights on bench without being hooked to main harness. Again the snowball grows. Good time to take the tail lights housings out and clean up around the seal area where the water leaks into the trunk rusting it out. Daniel Carpenter makes new tail light lens and the aluminum trim just for 73 you have to mask and paint for 71 - 72. He also makes a much better seal for the housings. I also put a bead of 3-M strip caulk around the opening for the light. With the lens off of the tail light housing you will see why the lights look dim when they do work. The plastic turns yellow and flakes off over time. I blast mine with walnut shells and put a coat of the Krylon Fusion Satin paint on matches factory finish perfect. Picture shows the can and front parking light off 73 I did. The headlight and parking lights along with side marker lights all need the same treatment, clean clean clean, electrical grease and back in. Remove any paint from areas where ground connections go like on the radiator support. Clean the ground connections from the battery one behind the voltage regulator, one on engine block. I actually add an extra ground strap from engine to chassis just to make sure. I did two cars in past couple years and the electrical is the worst part to me. The instrument cluster has a printed circuit. There is a diagram one member made of what each connection is. Would have to search for it I lost my copy. I have found that an eraser is good for cleaning the printed circuit to remove any contamination. Clean each bulb socket, connections and the bulb itself. Test each bulb outside the socket and then in the socket before putting back into the cluster. With the harness and dash out go over the wiring and fix any bare spots. If someone has cut be sure you splice back using solder not just twisting and tape. They make a special non stick tape you wrap the harness with can get from Mustang supply houses. There is no simple way to get in there and fix it wish there was.
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  15. If the engine runs and the tachometer doesn't work, either the tachometer is bad or has been bypassed. If the resistor wire is bad the engine won't run, unless it has been bypassed. By the way, please go to the introduction section of the forum and introduce yourself and your car. A few pictures of your car would be nice, too.
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