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  1. danoreilly

    danoreilly

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    rackerm

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/09/20 in all areas

  1. I road raced my 72 R code for 10 years. It was mostly stock, and was very fun. It handled every bit as well as my current 70 Boss 302 trans am full up race car. My lap times are almost identical. You don’t need to do much to these cars. The biggest limiting factor by far is the drivers ability. All the mods in the world won’t overcome a superior driver in a less modded car. So. Here is a proven known formula. Shelby lowering mod on the upper control arm. Some say our cars already have it done. I don’t know. I did the mod. Works great. Factory bone stock power steering. Fil
    1 point
  2. Here is a right and left non staggered shock set up.
    1 point
  3. All the little things that get overlook that cause big troubles. Makes sense. So the question - did you get it running ok?
    1 point
  4. @icejawa - found one on the 351C facebook page. Complete M-code engine with a Sept 21 date code. I linked him here. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1909853689258327/permalink/2654743028102719/?sale_post_id=2654743028102719
    1 point
  5. The ram air flaps are held closed by engine vacuum. So during cruise situations where there is engine vacuum, the engine is ingesting air through the snorkel. During warm up, the snorkel actuator is fed vacuum to close the flap to draw in heated air from the bottom. Once the engine temp increases, the vacuum to the snorkel actuator is removed and the flap opens. During driving situations, only when engine vacuum drops far enough for the RA flaps to open can outside air can enter the filter housing through the hood scoops. I'm pretty sure that I have it right, others can correct me if
    1 point
  6. I was going thru my old posts today, and realized I hadn't gotten around to posting pictures of my completed Fairlane. It took me about 5 years to do. So, here goes. This is a stock paint job, interior, etc. The chrome on the engine is stock as well, because it has the GT package.
    1 point
  7. A word of caution. To work on the wiring you need to take the whole dash out or you will have to go to Dr. to get your back adjusted, lol. It is not really that bad of a job probably 2 hrs. to get it out and remove the front seats for sure. It will of course snowball and you will be doing heater box. There are two bolts on top under the dash pad, take instrument cluster out, a brace rod to the left of the glove box, the brackets going to the A posts and one smaller screw hidden under the steering column that you will need to drop down. Take the screw out of the center of the fuse box and it
    1 point
  8. Try this one for a 1971 ... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-FORD-GALAXIE-MAVERICK-PINTO-MUSTANG-THUNDERBIRD-TORINO-LTD-BUILD-SHEET-/391894426403. Yes you will have to recreate the codes. See if you can find someone who has the same car (base and options, interior and exterior colors, etc) or a car as close as possible with a legible buildsheet and start piecing it together from those build sheets. Also, if you have pictures of the original paint marks from your car for such things as drive shaft, coil and leaf springs, also the buck, engine, trans, and rear metal tags. These paint codes and tag
    1 point
  9. Try again...I was upgrading the application, but it should be ready to go now!
    1 point
  10. Thanks for sharing, that's a really good looking car. And it sounds good too!
    1 point
  11. Notching my shock towers!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  12. Yesterday I took the Mach 1 to a benefit show for one of the guys from the local Corvette club – his daughter has some pretty serious medical appointments in DFW, and money was raised to help offset the costs for transportation and lodging. It was an awesome turn out with 91 cars and raised over $2500 for the Vasquez family. Finally got the white letters cleaned up - 10 minutes with an orbital pad sander an 120-grit. Stephen Horton took a bunch of awesome pics. Here’s a link to his Photo Album. https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenhorton/albums/72157713308978333?fb
    1 point
  13. Massive Job today, fitted two rubber grommets to the end of the sun visor arms purchased from NPD. Perfect fit, Now when you put the brakes on the sunvisors do not fall out of the central clip. ::thumb:: ::thumb::
    1 point
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