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  1. MikeGriese

    MikeGriese

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  2. mjseakan

    mjseakan

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  3. Lazarus

    Lazarus

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  4. turtle5353

    turtle5353

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/22/2020 in all areas

  1. Not a hack, just Chinese CORVID-19 SPAM from C-H-I-NA. Not to fear, I removed the posts and washed the forum down with Clorox! We are safe! dancebanana dancebanana dancebanana dancebanana
    2 points
  2. If it was mine, I would replace the oil pan gasket, oil pump, oil pump drive shaft and a good double roller timing chain. Its good insurance to keep the motor alive for many more years.
    1 point
  3. I tried that that but I think I did something wrong!!! My hood arch is way off now!! lollerz
    1 point
  4. If you are going for a repop cowl, make sure you get the options right. There are different cutouts, holes and brackets between air and heater only cars, like the little doghouse for the heater blower motor that is not on an AC car. The AC plenum mounts differently, there is only one fresh air intake hat (passenger side) there are vacuum lines that need holes - switching to AC later will be a big deal - filling holes the heater only cars use, opening holes the AC cars use. It's engine out/dash out.
    1 point
  5. I saw on tv here that hospitals in NYC had (have?) patients lying in the hallways due to shortage of space... When hospitals in hot spots here started to overflow we moved patients around the country and even to another country. You folks should ask questions about why this aint happening for the people left in hallways... Not sure where you saw that. The hospital that the Army set up in the Javits Center and the USN Hospital Ship Comfort were definitely underutilized. Emperor, uh Governor, Cuomo was very concerned (and rightly so) early on that the NYC hospital system would be over
    1 point
  6. If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!! By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor. Exactly and the previous owner had a shop do it, they did a terrible job as well as a bad paint job on the engine that's in there So now with the "new" engine (not in yet), you'll have the opportunity to do the engine bay and motor right and to your liking. On mine, I chose Eastwood 2K ceramic paint after a thorough cleaning and prep, You'll need 3 cans to do it right. I skimp
    1 point
  7. It looks clean though I'm no expert, no white deposits or anything. The tubes had a light dusting of dirt which I wiped out. I had the whole thing out and flushed it a bunch. If it's got a hole in it, why not bite the bullet and get it rebuilt to at least a 3 core. Your motor will thank you!! By the way, the rad should always be removed when removing/replacing a motor. Exactly and the previous owner had a shop do it, they did a terrible job as well as a bad paint job on the engine that's in there
    1 point
  8. I'm an Edelbrock fan, for sure. Every hot rod that's ever been in my orbit with an Edelbrock on it has never had carb issues aside from simple tuning adjustments needed to match up with timing (my '78 K5 Blazer was my first, and I loved it!). Most of the Holley-equipped cars also ran really well, but there were more 'leakers' among that crowd. I think the term 'carburetor rebuild' was copyrighted by Holley, since it seems like they need it more often than most. ;) :D Edelbrocks are not without their own issues involving age, wear & tear, and ill tuning (usually by the
    1 point
  9. September 1970 and close together too. Awesome! From my info sheets, they ought to be "N" code, D0AE-N and they are listed a 11:1, 62cc CC heads. No idea if that's 100% correct, but that's what I have on them. That N is harder to find, you'll have to remove the intake and use a mirror to look under the intake ports..... or pull the heads!
    1 point
  10. At that date, closed chamber. There is a highly quoted website that has incorrect information about the 4* head marking. Not sure how a guy can write an entire book on the 351C and screw this up. I have three sets of D1AE-GA closed chamber heads, all of then have the 4* marking
    1 point
  11. Mopar did make the GTX as well, so it’s certainly an understandable mistake anyway I think.. I myself was originally a GM guy (sorta raised that way) who loved all muscle cars, but eventually settled on 71-73 Mustangs as my favorite. I am by no means a carburetor expert, but I have had several 600cfm 1406 Edelbrocks, and one Thunder series 650cfm (I forget the model number). I found them to be excellent, reliable, and inexpensive carburetors. They are a little harder to tune for higher performance applications, compared to some others. I think the tunability of a Holley is a somewhat bett
    1 point
  12. The headlights do kinda look like gun barrels from some angles - maybe the crosshairs are functional?
    1 point
  13. I wonder how these guys came up with their dies for making new hoods. This type of arching is typical of original hoods. They weren't made that way in the beginning - it happened over time. These cars have LOOOOONG hoods that are supported at one end by hinges that get increasingly stiff over the years as corrosion finds its way into the pivots and rivets. Every time you close the hood, you pull down on the free end, bending the hood a little bit until there is enough force on the hinges to overcome the friction and they start to close. Repeat a few thousand times and you get an arched ho
    1 point
  14. This is very common in the new dynacorn aftermarket hoods. It would of been alot easier to fix when the panel was being fitted before paint, but i believe you can still persuade it to the arch you need after paint. I don't believe shimming the fenders in the middle will get the job done. You will be putting alot of stress on the center of the fenders to try to get them to arch up to meet the hood. The fenders aren't made to bend that way. The way the lip is formed on the fender would be very hard to make it bow. The factory hoods arch fit very nicely. the aftermarket ones, not so much. The f
    1 point
  15. so basically you did Chinese take out this am lollerz
    1 point
  16. I had a 71' Mach 1 with 351C that was to Boss spec........Boss clone. Holley 750 DP, Offenhauser intake, strip cam, Hooker Super Comp's headers, 3:91 Drag Pack. It was an absolute beast.....but....I could only hold a tune on that Holley for 6 months, and seasons in PA change quickly. Currently have a Edelbrock 1406 600CFM on my 302 in 73" vert, and its old nasty and never lost performance after sitting a few months. Call Edelbrock and ask there engineer's for the proper CFM carb for your engine and mods. I dont think I'll ever run another carb but Edelbrock.........just my opinio
    1 point
  17. I drove meals around town for people who are stuck indoors due to covid-19. A colleague of mine is a chef and he and his girlfriend have set up this charity to help out folks who are too vulnarable to go out shopping and have no one to look after them. I was happy delivering, pity I couldn't do it in my Mustang. Maybe there will be another pandemic in about 10 years when it's ready ;-) PS: David, very sorry to read about your dog :-(
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. Welcome/Välkommen ! interesting car you have there.
    1 point
  20. Welcome from eastern Pennsylvania. That's quite a desirable '72 you have there!
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. Welcome from Ohio. Looks like you will have your hands full for awhile.
    1 point
  23. Welcome from Oregon. Good luck on your restoration.
    1 point
  24. Welcome from Idaho,USA. Yeah if Im without our 71 mach I go into withdrawal. Or was that no beer? :-)
    1 point
  25. Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Good luck with your project!
    1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. Nice horse welcome to the forums of plenty. ::thumb::
    1 point
  28. Hi Nik welcome from South West Germany. Cheers Frank
    1 point
  29. Welcome from Central New York. You've definitely come to the right place for information and help. Good luck with your project. Mike
    1 point
  30. Here's some pics of the upper mounting point. Hosted by Tapatalk so if you can't see them let me know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  31. Yes, 3 point. I did it because I had to to get it registered in Australia and because it's safer. I don't have any pics of exactly where I mounted it but heres a clue. I mounted the retractor to the floor and the top anchor behind the panel where I cut the hole for the belt you can see in the pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
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