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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/23/2020 in all areas

  1. Hi All. I have owned many low mile 73's, one with 90 miles I bought from the original owner, Justin Rosen, who owned Rosen Novak Ford in Denver CO. He bought the car for himself (got a real nice discount I'm sure), knowing that there would (supposedly) never be any Ford convertibles for sale, at least not Mustangs, ever again. Based on my experience, I believe this cars' mileage to be correct. The stripes are original to this car. The paint looks to be 100% original. The car was absolutely loaded with options from the factory (the Marti Report would confirm). I have owned and sold probably eight 73s with between 90 and 15,000 miles. Even my 90 mile car had surface rust on many underside and engine components. I bet most looked that way after one year, even if they were stored inside. If you want original, that's what you get! The factory paint jobs were all crap. Paint runs all over the place, no protection from UV light, etc. Most air cleaner set ups had the painted lid. I have certainly seen some chrome lids. The only 1971-1973 351 motor that I know for absolute certainty to come with a chrome lid was the 1972 HO R code motor. I sold all of my low mileage cars for way too cheap. I was happy to make a few grand on any car I got for between $7,000 and $22,000. I agree this car is a little high on the price. It is at least worth $30,000. Maybe up to $38,000 to $40,000. It would probably be worth more as a 4 speed. I sold my 90 mile Bright Red/White/White convertible back in 2000 for $27,500, but it was an H code decor group car with A/C and pretty much no other options. The car shown here has many 1973 ONLY options such as the leather wrapped steering wheel (which appears flawless and is the first thing to wear, supporting the claim of the low mileage), the slotted aluminum wheels, the side strip that is unique in the way it is applied (notice that the hockey stripes continue down onto the front valance, a point that most people miss when they throw the stripes on a 73 but leave the whole front valance painted black or argent), the TU-TONE hood (Yes, that is a 1973 ONLY option, and it included the hood locks, the painted hood patch in black or argent, and the non-functional NASA hood). I would love to have this car if I did not already have so many projects that need to get finished. And back to the originality of the side stripes. If you look very closely at the lower body black paint, you'll notice that the break between the red and black is NOT paint, but a special decal with the pin stripe and a 1/2? inch wide piece of tape beneath it. What keeps this car from being a $50,000 car is that most people know you can build a car that looks like this one, with the same options, and has a bright red shiny coat of paint coated in clear that will shine and last forever (with the new technology in todays' paints), for less money. What makes this car far more valuable than all the other cars out there is the fact that it came from the factory with all these options and that incredibly beautiful all original interior and dash!! Try sourcing NOS door panels, NOS interior quarter panels, NOS dash bezels, NOS power window bezels, NOS emergency brake handle, an NOS dash pad, an NOS radio, NOS carpeting, NOS seat belts, and you will soon appreciate what really make this car valuable!
    3 points
  2. I think those would look really good if they were black chrome. The flat finish doesn't do it for me.
    1 point
  3. A man that knows his original cars, I agree with what you see. I see the upper radiator hose with the stapled hose clamps. I just took those off of my 73. The Marti MCA approved replacements look nothing like my originals I took off. They make what they want to and sell as original nobody to say otherwise. If you got to MPD in Charlotte they have the last Cougar vert built in 1973. It has a few hundred miles on it and all of the suspension is rusty. They were rusty when they left the factory after the Wind and Rain test. Wonder where the original mats went?
    1 point
  4. So close. My dream car s a 1969 Shelby Convertible, big block, red, black interior and top and of course a 4 speed. Actually I had my chance once at a '69 Shelby Fastback. Back in 1973, my wife was expecting and we had my Mach and her Pinto. Needed something with a little more trunk room, so I figured it was time to get rid of my Mach and get a family car. This was also the time the first oil embargo hit us and gas was at $1.50 a gallon, another reason to keep her Pinto and sell the Mach. So I took my Mach to the local Ford Dealer and was trying to trade it in. They did not want it, they didn't want any V8 for that matter. After arguing with the salesman for a time, he finally offered me $600. My car had less than 10,000 milles on it and about 2 years old. Insulted, I told him that I would let it rot behind my garage before I let it go for that. To drive home his point, he took me to a chained in back parking lot and pointed to one section. He explained that all the cars in this section were V8's, family rides to muscle cars, all makes were there. He walked over to a red '69 Shelby fastback, big block with a 4 speed, smacked its hood and said, "Kid give me $1,500 and I let you have this one!" So there was my chance, but I blew it. Told him that I was trying to sell one.....not buy one! I'm still kicking myself over that one!
    1 point
  5. Thanks, the link you provided was very useful! Scott
    1 point
  6. My understanding is the aftermarket 2 piece rear main seals are not be made to the proper dimensions. In essence, one or both halves of the seal are too long so when installed are not properly sealing. The solution I have read is to file each seal such that the end extends .010-.020 past the end of the block or cap when the other end is flush. Once this crush dimension has been set, you clock the seal have slightly from the parting line and install with a dab of silicone as usual. Or you can buy the Kaase "one piece" rear main seal.
    1 point
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