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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/08/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Welcome from northern California. mike
  2. 1 point
    As usual, Secluff is 100% correct. ::thumb:: As a Boss 351 owner (for a very long time), I have seen many cars with incorrect striping, decals and emblems. As for the hood decals, the "351" was not added. It is the other way around. They come from Ford as "351 RAM AIR" or "429 RAM AIR". For the Boss 351, we just cut off the "351" or "429" part. And they are only correct in argent or black to be placed on a non-gloss black or argent painted hood. Personally don't care much for gloss black or argent hood treatment. IMHO, it defeats the whole reason it was done that way to start with! Ray
  3. 1 point
    I ended up with it. It is pretty much what I've been looking for- a big block car that isn't too nice to drive a lot. We'll see what I uncover as I go!
  4. 1 point
    Its nice.. It would be easier to do bodywork just around it and not taking it out. However, I do not want to hurt the value of the car if people don't like that kind of stuff if nor original
  5. 1 point
    My dad dies body work and paint... We thought about replacing the whole skin of the roof... I think we will trying the patch first and if it ends bad then might have to replace the whole skin... That's why I was hoping this sun roof might be a rarity I see, then he should know how to do it. Glad you're looking at all options. If that sun roof is indeed factory installed, then for sure you keep it, if not, your choice. If it was installed correctly and you like it, keep it, if not loose it. Just my thoughts on it. You have a nice looking car there for sure.
  6. 1 point
    Pretty good day (but HOT). Enjoyed hanging out with Ray. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 1 point
    The MSD Atomic set up does not require a return line. I have this set up on my car, my wife's car, and four of my buddy's have them on their cars as well with no return line. Just an option. will put a link from summit racing for the master kit. BTW its half price of what I paid when I installed mine LOL. I have everything to let it control the timing but I have heard all of these systems seem to struggle with that so I have chosen to not go that route yet. Here is four of the cars that it is installed on. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-2900?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxKKln7Hq6QIVCYizCh196AqCEAQYAiABEgI3jvD_BwE [/url]
  8. 1 point
    Run this for a waterpump, I am running this on my 525 hp, 393C stroker and it runs 180 all day long. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-1648/make/ford
  9. 1 point
    Dude - why ya gotta be like that? Not every one has to be faithfully restored, ya know. Maybe he's got a low-value, complete basket case like mine was, in which case you might as well build it how you like it since pretty much everything needs to be done anyway. Maybe his dream is to have an awesome '73 as a daily driver, but he doesn't want to give up creature comforts and have a bullet-proof car as well. That was my plan, but then I got a new truck shortly after I got mine shiny and running again, and now I don't want to subject it to overcrowded parking lots and San Angelo drivers. It looks to me like he's got a solid plan, knows what he wants, and has picked out good components. That's what I did as well, and I love my car... wouldn't change a thing about it (OK, maybe a couple of minor things, like not moving the seat platforms back when I replaced the floors, that is). I'm about 12k into my build. A little more than half is body and paint. I expect to be around 25k when it's done and I will know every inch of it. How many times have we seen guys buy cars that are " done " just to have it redone right a year or so later.
  10. 1 point
    If you are not going to race it. Stock suspension is not bad at all. There are other things that you can do to improve handling. · Subframes (already on your list) · Montecarlo bar maybe · Adjustable strut rods (eliminating the bushings) · 17 wheels (already on your list) The stock discs are good. Just use good brake pads and might upgrade the brake hoses to stainless braided hoses. Rear drums do the job. For a daily EFI is a good choice. 3G alternator upgrade is a must for all your other upgrades. If you are going with MSD ignition box better go with the 6AL and have a rev limiter as a safety net. A/C is a must for a daily. Controls/controls…. that Is more of a personal choice! Don’t have any suggestions for seats…but go as comfortable as you can and use the best sound deadening you can find!
  11. 1 point
    Hey if it ain’t broke don’t fix it....lol. Just kidding, but have to agree with Jason. I think your trying to replace way to much stuff that doesn’t need to be. Plus some of the wiring you are talking about, well I have never heard of. A roller cam for a 250 hp motor? I think you may have your information wrong.? Anyway this is the place to get some good info, and learn what can and can’t be done. Great ideas and good luck with your build!
  12. 1 point
    Pics you want, pics you shall have :) This is the MSD setup I have it setup so that it controls the engine timing and the two cooling fans. All of the red items are the MSD parts that I used to get this all working together. The pic of the distributor shows all the guts removed and the advance plate is locked so centrifugal advance plate can no longer move. This system can use a return or return-less fuel system and I chose to use a return one. Using the return line reduces vapor lock issues that can occur on hot days. I used the fuel evaporator line to be the return for the gas since that line was already there and connected to the fuel tank. Only drawback was the amount of wiring that has to be done and hiding it all. EDIT: Attached the manual that may help. atomic EFI Manual.pdf
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