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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/22/2020 in all areas

  1. I do have one other idea based on something new mentioned - You have the operational ram air. Have you tried running without that, maybe put on a open air filter? I saw you tested it, but perhaps the issue isn't fuel starvation but maybe there's some vacuum issue under load that is allowing all the flaps to close and its starving for air under power. Maybe a failed or disconnected vacuum canister. The FMX has nothing electronic in it, its just a big hydraulic pump. Failure = not shifting or slipping. Anything that would limit rpms at this level would make horrific noise. I even tried a search on the web and couldn't find a single reference to a non-electronic transmission causing the conditions described, always the reverse due to slippage. These cars are simple air pumps honestly. Air/Fuel in, combustion, Exhaust out. To oversimplify, The vacuum indicates the engine is in good condition as stable vacuum in a strong range. Your exhaust is free. This leaves 2 options - air/fuel or ignition. Something is failing under load or heat. Could be as simple as not having a resistor on a coil that requires one and the coil overheating. Bad plugs, wires, cap, timing, etc. Or both the current and replacement part have the same problem. Replacing with another one will produce the same results (Ask me how I know). I even considered a rev limiter (My MSD has one) but the OP has pertronics. My money is on fuel. In the garage the car can keep enough fuel for revving above the 3k rpm mark. Under load at steady speed the engine consumes more fuel and its not happening. I had similar issues and had just replaced the entire fuel system - tank, lines and carb. Nearly $1000 so there shouldn't have been anything wrong. I had put on a gauge and pressure was stable 6.5 lbs. It would run for awhile but lose power after a few miles. I could run it in the garage for hours without issue. Out on the road, it would die again after a few miles. Turned out after 2 weeks of testing and trial and error to be vapor lock caused by a number of smaller problems. The fix required removing the clear fuel filter (They cause a low pressure condition)removing the mechanical pump, installing an electric pump at the tank to pressurize the lines, a heat shield, spacers and insulating lines in the engine bay. Granted I live in a much warmer climate but just drove almost 100 miles yesterday in 95+ heat with the AC on and haven't had an issue since I made those changes. Stick will air, fuel, spark and you will track it down!
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  2. Misc. items for sale on Ebay & Craigslist for 1971-1973 Mustang - https://www.ebay.com/usr/1972pony Also have a few Sheet metal items for 1971-1973 Mustang - located in Lawrenceville, Ga
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  3. Was just looking over my interior resto and found this...
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  4. OK...so, the usb sockets came with my radio. Like Tekelley22 said, you can get them on Amazon in various flavors. I made sure of this before hacking mine up. You essentially need to whittle it down to fit the lighter bezel as they are way too fat. I used a box cutter and took my time. The ports are encased in a soft , almost rubber-like, plastic so it's not too horrible. Make sure to leave the port end bigger than the insertion end as shown. To secure it to the dashboard, I used a pipe fitting. I forget what size it was, but I took the socket with me to Lowes and bought a galvanized metal one and a plastic one. Either will bite in to the soft plastic material but you may have to skinny up the socket a bit. Both of the fittings had a gradual taper meaning that it starts threading easy and finished very tight. I had to play with this by shaping the socket to make sure that it threaded on enough to hold the whole contraption tight without swiveling. I bought a package of male usb solder connectors for the plug side. See here... https://www.amazon.com/Conwork-10-Pack-Socket-Connector-Plastic/dp/B072DWP59M/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+male&qid=1570232452&sr=8-4 Those also needed hacking like so... Cut it at the yellow plane, but not all the way. Drill a hole for the plugs center thread. This may take some trial an error, but hey, you got 10 of these buggers! Bend it and flatten it out like shown on the bottom. I made mine such that it could thread on and be mechanically secure before the JB Welding. Back-fill with JB Weld, thread usb thingy on, and pack it full of more JB Weld. A Toothpick helps get it all the way in. Once set, I painted on some ABS glue for a finished look. And of course, the finished product...
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