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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/07/20 in all areas

  1. Click CONTENT up top in the nav menu then click Google Custom Search. There should also be a search box at the top of the Index Page side bar... This is the direct link to the search page: https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=007957757079081443050:ry9tf_ln-ii
    1 point
  2. I have a concours driven car. I finished it over 8 years ago and it has less than a thousands miles on it since completion. If you want to drive the car I'd suggest skipping the concours route. I've built several cars over the years and this one is my first and last concours effort. I spent way too much time researching fasteners, finishes, date stamps, and other small details to be fun. The car did receive gold and I was happy about that. When I do drive it, I enjoy it as it has a lot of get up and go (judges can't see what is inside the engine). Decide how you want to use the car, your skill
    1 point
  3. Stanglover posted a picture of a Boss piston earlier in this thread. See if your pistons look like that. You might also be able to use the snake camera to look for the screw in studs if you don't want to pull off a valve cover.
    1 point
  4. Yes I will message you later I’m in buffalo ny not sure what shipping will cost but I don’t mind cutting it out
    1 point
  5. Nice write up... To save my original J Code (429CJ) block, required sleeving one cylinder due to a bore imperfection we found that could not be restored through a further re-bore process. The engine was already at 40 over and had been rebuilt at least twice previously albeit, poorly. How this block survived all these year’s is a testament to the durability of these engines. In the end, after carefully discussing all options with my engine builder I asked that he sleeve all 8 cylinders back to original factory bore dimensions. Money well spent in my books....
    1 point
  6. The reason I replied with "Really?", is that I've found that a lot of people have a misconception about running a sleeved block, either just one or all cylinders. What is the determining factor is cylinder wall thickness prior to sleeving. Obviously, a block that experiences core shift to the point of the bore required to sleeve a hole renders a cylinder block too thin, should be passed on. At work, we sonic check ALL cylinders on a block requiring a sleeve to make sure it's do-able. A sleeved block, in and of itself, is not at all a problem. Some factory engines used to come new with sl
    1 point
  7. Such a downer response... I have to ask why you own this year of car? I’m tired of reading why these car’s are so bad in your opinion... I think they are awesome. A Mach1 (although I don’t own one today); are great looking and performing machines, for its day. They were more than plastic and wording, they gave the owner the enjoyment of thinking they were driving an upgraded performance car. Nothing wrong with that.
    1 point
  8. Guys, thanks for the responses! I am sorry I did not answer sooner but I did not get notified of your responses. I am not sure why. Jasbro316 let me know if you are interested in cutting that part out and selling it. CMM - Thanks for the photos! That is definitely what I need to do.
    1 point
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