Jump to content

Leaderboard

  1. 71Rustang

    71Rustang

    Members


    • Points

      4

    • Content Count

      84


  2. Spike Morelli

    Spike Morelli

    Members


    • Points

      2

    • Content Count

      376


  3. Hemikiller

    Hemikiller

    Tech Advisors


    • Points

      2

    • Content Count

      2727


  4. Jeff73Mach1

    Jeff73Mach1

    Benefactors


    • Points

      1

    • Content Count

      4724


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/17/20 in all areas

  1. I have ben running a 3.50:1 Trac-Loc in mine for 30 years now. My car, as bought, had a 3.00:1 open rear end. I changed the rear because I knew my purpose was to not only drive the car everyday, but also tow my boat(s). The lower gears give me more grunt to pull with, and the Trac-Loc helps on wet ramps, and when I may have to pull way over on the shoulder of a highway with the trailer, putting the right wheel in the dirt. Now that I've explained WHY I changed the rear gears, I will tell you that, Yes, the highway rpm is more elevated than before. However, being that I am an "old man" of
    2 points
  2. Hello once again.I figured this was a worth look. I got in most of the rest of my front suspension.This stuff is from Opentracker.A roller idler arm,roller spring perches,tie rod adjusters, LCA boxing plates and on the bottom are the monoballs for the LCAs.The rest of the pics are 4 days of welding on the front end.I am fully welding all of the lower frame rail seams nose to tail on the whole car,torque boxes and any and all structural and suspension points. Evey thing else will be skip welded every 2 inches.Just now waiting for the hiem joints for the sway bar links, then I can build the lowe
    2 points
  3. Is that the one for the 429? Looks a lot like the 6cyl/302/351 unit.
    1 point
  4. I may have one, I'll look tonight
    1 point
  5. $3K was the "let's see how dumb you are" price. Unless you'r running some ridiculously tall tire, the 3.25 should be fine with a near-stock 351CJ. Before dropping a bunch of money, perform some basic tune-up type work to make sure the engine is running as it should. If you can't spin a tire with a 351C, something is off. Maybe skip the local wrench shops and try a dyno tune session on a chassis dyno.
    1 point
  6. So I must give kudos to a couple vendors out there. 1) I worked with National Parts Depot on the hose. Provided photos, and talked about the concerns with the crimp. They checked inventory and found one they thought looked better than my crimp and are replacing at their cost. I sent them a few pics of my car, so you may see it in an upcoming catalogue ( yeah right 😉) 2) Marty at Power Steering.com told me they did find a retaining ring out of place that likely caused some of my erratic power assist conditions. The box will arrive back here tomorrow and he even refunded me some mo
    1 point
  7. To me, this sounds very much like what I was experiencing. Bearing in mind my motor is an M code, but with 10:1 dished pistons and a Melling MTF 2 cam, slightly higher lift then stock, producing 17"Hg vacuum at hot idle. I narrowed it all down to two things, timing and carb. To me and I really don't know why, the Edlebrock carb just looks wrong. It looks like it's mounted sideways, weird eh! Some like them some don't. I have never used one and doubt I ever will. I think there are better carbs out there suited to 351C's. Going back to mine, the Holley Street Avenger 86670 with vacuum secondary'
    1 point
  8. The only way you should spend $3,000 on a gear swap is if you are installing a limited slip, really fancy (expensive) carrier, chromoly axles, nice gears etc... A gear change alone should be 1/3rd that cost at the most. You could buy a brand new carrier with bearings, gears and limited slip from Strange for about $1600-1800 and put it in yourself.
    1 point
  9. If they quoted you $3K find another shop. Chuck
    1 point
  10. Here ya go................Its not that hard of a process. But it is very labor intensive. I started the cut at the cowl just above the hood hinge bolt and went straight to the rad support.Then cutting again from where I started gently angle the cut down till it was at the top of the shock tower,about 9/16 or 5/8 of an inch.Then from the front of the tower is a progressively steeper pie cut to the rad support. The radiator support I sectioned two inches out of,reinstalled then bring down the top of the aprons gently check heights and width and weld.the pic of the pie cut is only at 1 1/4 inches
    1 point
  11. Hi again,here is a couple more progress pics. Reworked and boxed Moog upper control arms,and installed rear springs.The front of the springs use a 5/8 mono ball and the rear use a sleeve with stock rubber bushings. The leafs are new from Eaton Detroit Spring.They built all of the KK Trans Am springs originally and still have all the blue prints. They are 1 3/4 wide 210lb.This is the Bud Moore set up,which will require me to build and install a Watts link....................
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...