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  1. Murdoc

    Murdoc

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/08/2020 in all areas

  1. Success! It is running! It turned out to be the points gap. There wasn’t one! I set it to .017 with my feeler gauge and that seemed to do the trick. Next step is to get the timing adjusted. Thank you all for letting me field my questions here!
    2 points
  2. Frame rails are welded back together. I still have to fit the torque boxes to the rockers and weld some reinforcements to the inside.
    1 point
  3. When you are out driving it around for the first time, Put your head out the window, floor the gas pedal, and as you smoke the tires laying down two streaks of tire marks, smile and scream like a banshee. HELL YEAH!!!!
    1 point
  4. With only 3 volts it's no wonder you're getting inconsistent spark. Disconnect the wire from the positive side of the coil, and with the ignition switch in the run position check the voltage on the wire you just removed from the coil. Without any load on that wire, it should read close to battery voltage. When connected to the coil and the points are closed it should read around 7 or 8 volts. Do you see a little white rectangular ceramic device anywhere near the coil that has wires connected to it? Someone may have mistakenly added a ballast resistor to your system. Check the voltage at that f
    1 point
  5. I read your posts from Aug.....R U still dealing with this from then?? I read that POP (statement) and then not starting without backfiring and thought " has anyone confirmed this car doesn't still have the plastic timing gear!" SHOPS don't know everything we do with 40 years experience with engeneering changes! Before throwing a internet distributor do you think they knew to remove valve cover and watch the valve action in relationship to the distributor? Mark P.S. You have to do this yourself, you will go broke at $80 per hour and REDOING wrong work if you continue down t
    1 point
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