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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/08/2021 in all areas

  1. The effects of adjusting a vacuum advance have been discussed many times in the forum, but without much documentation. After a discussion in this thread I decided to see just what happens. duraspark distributors - Engine, Transmission, Drive Line, Etc - 7173Mustangs.com I connected a vacuum pump to my distributor with a Crane adjustable advance, to see what the effects of vacuum versus adjustment are. I started with no adjustment, so maximum vacuum advance at lowest vacuum would be achieved. I took looked at the amount of advance at 5 inch increments required to achieve the max
    1 point
  2. Hello.I don't know if anybody here has ever seen this.I found this on the good old interweb.It's about taking Vette steering box parts and with a couple modifications you can put them into the Ford manual box for a 16:1 ratio.Which is the ratio that where in the 69/70 TA boxes.I did check out the part numbers and they are legit,actually you can by kits with all the parts in them to rebuild a Vette box.I also believe that KK would have figured this out and used it.This is the new steering box plan.
    1 point
  3. I can't answer all your questions, but if I were wanting to add ram air, for a start, I'd add the turn locks. It can be done I know, as a friend and fellow member here did it to his build. Next I would make sure all my stack up heights were the same. I'm sure someone can give a measurement from say, the fenders to the top of a stock ram air carb. Any more than that, and you're headed for issues. Easy way to check hood clearances is to use a pillar of plasticine on the carb and measure the height after the hood has been closed. If need be, loos that MSD distributor and go with a well curved Dur
    1 point
  4. If you had to drill holes then you have a big cam. Vacuum advance will help run better FULL manifold vacuum, stick a allen wrench into can to adjust. Set up carb screws as previous posters, then play with idle speed with ca. Contrary to popular belief high timing at idle will NOT cause overheating, II run 12 degrees can advance + 22initial, 34 total= 46 total with can at speed ,runs great, hit the gas and vacuum goes away, ported vacuum was for emissions, not drivability, try it out, what you have to lose?
    1 point
  5. ............ and a polyester suit as well!
    1 point
  6. ok. I misunderstood. Thanks for info. Jimmy t.
    1 point
  7. I believe its a 3 port. https://www.npdlink.com/product/valve-assy-distributor-vacuum-control-3-port-mounts/169678?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dvacuum%2Bcontrol%2Bvalve%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D This tool makes replacing them easier. https://www.npdlink.com/product/socket-vacuum-control-valve/205949?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dvacuum%2Bcontrol%2Bvalve%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D
    1 point
  8. I have a dad cut from the same cloth, believe me! Takes a lot to get him to do anything different than he always has. And I’m not trying to get in your business. I just know some of the modern paint chemicals are pretty high-stakes if you breathe them in, so I am a little paranoid about it.
    1 point
  9. Nothing wrong with a stroked cleveland but I can't imagine that a quality stroker kit is going to be cheaper than having the stock crank freshened, new pistons and rings, rod reconditioning and new hardware etc...if budget is the overriding concern.
    1 point
  10. Ok, not an engine expert by a long shot, but the first thing I noticed is it's a 4 bolt main, nice! As far as stroking it, well that's up to you. Back when I first had to redo my 351 4V M code in 2012, I had the chance to have Barry Poole rebuild it, but he wanted to stoke it to 393 (I think) and the price was a bit steep for my budget. As all his machining was done at the shop that I did have rebuild it, I went with the rebuild of original parts except for .030"over flat top pistons and a mild Melling cam. Where I ran into trouble was the builder decided to add a high volume oil pump an
    1 point
  11. That could well be yours too. Just a little, well a lot, of work and patience. It's all in the details. On the engine paint, I forget the paint code number for the Duplicolor, just make sure it High Heat Engine paint and buy and extra can of the SAME batch. I have found slight variations between batches, no matter what brand.
    1 point
  12. What Hemikiller said and nothing to be lost, gains from idle through max RPM. Consider a .030 MLS head gasket for more gain in compression. If you are concerned about deck and head surface being too rough for MLS gaskets spray the gaskets with copper coat. I know that Cometic and others say not to do so but, I've done it twice with no problems. Chuck
    1 point
  13. You can bolt on a set of closed chamber heads to your factory 73 351-4V engine. The '73 was the first year with dished pistons, which reduced the compression further than the open chamber head alone, to about 8:1. You'll gain about a point of compression with the 71 D1AE-GA heads, 1.25 points with the 1970 D0AE heads. Another "quick" fix is to replace the timing set with one that allows you to advance the cam 4° to compensate for the retarded timing ground into the factory CJ cam.
    1 point
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