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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/04/2021 in all areas

  1. Be sure the handle in the back is positioned as shown in the photograph below and pointing away from the inner motor coil. If you have it 180 degrees the other way, it may stop in the up position on the windshield. The handle can mount either way.
    1 point
  2. 1 point
  3. Yesterday I released the original fuel tank and I was suprised how good that sheet metal above it looks. I was in fear about some rot but it looks like brand new! There were some fabrication marks on the tank too, the vapor unit looks usable and all the vapor stuff looked originally attached and untouched at the same time. The tank bands had their original color on the backside - it is a semi flat black! All in all a very reusable tank but I will take it on the attic as a spare and use a new made in Canada unit from Spectra Premium
    1 point
  4. now with bumper tuck on the rear and some shots in the sun WhatsApp Video 2021-03-03 at 13.38.36.mp4
    1 point
  5. The picture of yours is how they all were. When you have a flange on a bend it has to stretch and will split unless you go to the trouble of putting in metal gainers. Since this is not a structrual part they did not bother. Mine is just like yours.Here are pics of a one owner. Today they spend thousands of dollars to eliminate the tiny split and to no benifit. Just jacks the price of the car up. That split has been there 50 years and did not harm. There is no common sense in cars today just make it perfect and it will never last 50 years.
    1 point
  6. In those days it was "Hammer to fit and paint to match". You can "fix it" but don't be surprised if you have to " unfix it" or hammer another portion of the dash to get everything to go back together. I have been there more than a few times over the years. If it doesn't cause a problem and is not visible, I'd leave it alone. That is just one guys opinion. Keep up the good work, you will get to the finish. Chuck
    1 point
  7. You can get the seat tracks apart. If you look at the end of the track you will see a leaf spring riveted to the track. Get it steady in bench vice and probably extra set of hands. You can take needle nose pliers and szueeze the Vee shape down to get the 3/4" roller to come out. There are four .250" ball bearings in the cage on each end and the 3/4" roller on each end. It is tricky to get apart but you can. You can get new ball bearings at hardware and clean up the track and roller. The track on the seat is Manganese Phosphate coated and the track on the floor is painted semi gloss black. There are usually cracks in the tracks in the formed corners. Cracked from day one and get larger. I use the Red-N-Tacky #2 grease in there also. These are original seats out of my Mach 1.
    1 point
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