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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/08/2021 in Posts

  1. It's been a long time coming but the 408C is singing. Still have to connect the hydraboost, hydraulic clutch, power steering and the rest of the exhaust. Didn't want to run it long without the PS pump not connected. Made sure she had good pressure and 60PSI on the fuel. She turned right over with barely touching the key. Now to my discredit...I have a couple different hands in this pot to start troubleshooting but I'm sure it's either a single wire not correctly installed and a setting not set correctly or all of the above. I set all the Dakota digital settings to BUS. The Dakota BIM module says EFI but it should say sniper. I think I know why that is but I can't get the Holley software to enable the I/O's so I can turn on "racepack" for the CAN bus. I'll talk to Holley about that tomorrow. The AFR is pegged at lean but I assure you my watering eyes says she's fat! The TPS isn't responding at all? So there are some issues to iron out but for now I just wanted to make sure the motor fired up and all is well. 20210307_165531.mp4
    3 points
  2. Found some old ball joint removal tools that hardly never fit on any vehicle but on the old Mustang they fit like they should - bingo! Never waist some old tool Some turns on the bolts and out they popped without hammering and fiddling around Next will be the shocks, upper and lower control arms and the strut rods...
    2 points
  3. Been a while since I updated, but work has been continuing. The trunk came into focus and I went to work. There were a few spots on one side that had pinholes, so I dropped the tank and cut the metal out and welded new in. I worked the welds and the floor so it was smooth and you couldn’t see the repair areas, then lots of cleaning and sanding ensued. Then more cleaning and sanding. Then more. Finally today I primered it all, sprayed some white/clear where it needed to be, then sprayed the area to be splatter painted with dark gray followed by splatter paint. The dark gray allowed the coverage needed where the splatter paint by itself would have taken about 6 cans or more. I also painted the outsides of the mirrors, bases, side marker bezels, and the back of the hood molding in white and clear. They came out nice, but there is a chunk of dirt on the passenger mirror head I am going to have to attend to. The other project I have been working on is the front bumper. Lots of time fitting, a little more minor straightening, lots of sanding. Any place where the factory urethane was sketchy, I hit it lightly with a handheld 2” disk grinder. Then I used a 2K urethane filler to fill and repair the bumper where needed. That ended up being most of the bumper... It was sprayed with 3 coats of DP90 today. I used black for a few reasons, 1) I wanted to hit the backside and make it nice and black (it was sanded and prepped), 2) I figured as a base primer, an epoxy the same color as the bumper would be a good foundation; 3) I am almost out of white DP primer—LOL, the real reason! It is going to need some more work, but at least I know what I have now. Finally, I have a date with a paint booth. I made the appropriate inquiries at work and am now scheduled access to both booths on April 26 and 27. Now I get to work on final sanding of everything. 400grit dry block followed by 500DA with an interface pad. As i am getting old, I broke down and bought Guide Coat. I have never used it in my life, but as I get older I am having trouble seeing the spots that need a bit more attention. With only 2 days at the booths, I have to have the car ready to mask, final clean, and spray. I am hoping to base clear it on the first day, come in the next day, sand it down and re-clear it. I will probably take the mirrors in and hit them again to deal with the dirt spot. Progress!
    2 points
  4. Ken, found 1 but it is very dirty has a small hole, I think I have a nice one somewhere will keep looking
    1 point
  5. Tim, Just one last note on the filter material for the vent. Just to be sure, take a piece of the material you plan on using and soak it in petrol for an extended time just to be sure it will not dissolve or break up. I don't think it will, but best to be sure. Anytime you're introducing a material into a solvent based fluid, do a test over a few days at least. Use a glass jar with a lid to prevent evaporation.
    1 point
  6. Evaporust took it's time but made some almost new rear shock and sway bar plates, differential shield and axle tube flange bolts again
    1 point
  7. Ken, if you don't find a decent one - perhaps Don has one in a decent shape though - I heard good things about the Jeep ones. I searched for my father and his all original 1973 T5 convertible and came also to the conclusions of Steve (who has summed up the relevant informations very very good). You also have to do minor work to get it fit perfect then
    1 point
  8. Those are just guide brackets to position the gas tank during assembly at the factory.
    1 point
  9. Glad to see this thing coming along and how it brings out some POP in the interior.
    1 point
  10. Free 1973 Grande Quarter Trim Panels. Great shape. Color is blue. You pay shipping.
    1 point
  11. This is what I believe they were referring to for scotch brite. They also come in very-very fine, but I don’t have the part number handy for that one.
    1 point
  12. If the car is as original as it sounds to be, I suggest photographing every inch of the car before you do any repairs/changes. They will help you, and others, in the future. Just a suggestion. Chuck
    1 point
  13. Tim, Nice pictures that tell a story. It looks like the crud in the old tank is more like sediment rather than rust residue. For the cost, still not a bad idea to replace the tank with a nice new shiny one. Your original fuel sender filter looks exactly the same as the one I took out of mine, rotten. You know, thinking back to when I took my tank out, I'm pretty sure mine had nothing (left) in the vent cap either. I think I was going on what others were saying that there was a filter material installed to stop back splash into the tube. If a small amount of fuel were to get into that tube, it would likely just evaporate back into the tank. However, it can't hurt to put something there provided it doesn't stop the venting process or fall out into the tank. Maybe time to dig into the books again. Ok, I found the section in the Ford manual. All it says is to replace the vent assembly if found defective. so, no longer available, there is a filter medium, so we need to find a replacement.
    1 point
  14. Hello Ken, I've never seen one of those repaired other than the time-honored black duct tape for daily drivers. A few years back, forum member gmadrid had researched and found this duct (Crown Automotive, part # J-3231980) that is a replacement for some Jeep vehicles. Ford had released some service flex ducts after receiving feedback from fleet owners who were spending way too much money replacing the plastic duct and flex duct assemblies. D3OZ-9A624-B 2 5/16" X 3 11/16" X 11" D5UZ-9A624-B 2 5/16" X 3 11/16" X 18 1/4" D7UZ-9A624-A 2 5/16" X 3 11/16" X 25 3/4" The D3OZ was used mainly for car applications and was discontinued in 1996. The last two numbers are van part numbers (extra length) and were cut to fit. Ford kept those in the parts system a little longer since they were cut to fit and could be made to fit many applications. You can see that the dimensions are close enough that the 3 1/2 x 2 1/2 hose gmadrid found fit perfectly as he reported. The original link he used (4wd.com) no longer sells that duct. You can use the Crown Automotive part #J-3231980 number to Google or search sites such as E-Bay or Amazon.com to find the best price and availability. I did find another Jeep site that listed the J-3231980. https://thejeephut.com/air-intake-duct-for-78-86-jeep-cj-5-cj-7-cj-8-w-4-2l-engine-w-o-power-brakes/
    1 point
  15. Guess what I got? Just arrived on a three cat hot-shot car carrier.. she needs some tune up work... brakes, possibly clutch but I am very satisfied.. It came with a marti report. I will post a picture of that if anyone is interested
    1 point
  16. now with bumper tuck on the rear and some shots in the sun WhatsApp Video 2021-03-03 at 13.38.36.mp4
    1 point
  17. Because you have a convertible you might find this interesting Austin Vert's Car Radio Solution. - Electrical, Lighting & Electronics - 7173Mustangs.com
    1 point
  18. I had thought about getting something like this Kenwood Bluetooth Amp. I could put the amp in the trunk and keep the controller in the console and just run its own speakers. So you could keep the original stuff in the dash and just use this on its own. https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_113M1824BT/Kenwood-KAC-M1824BT.html?awkw=298183808798&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=190568851671&awdv=c&awug=9001404
    1 point
  19. I have the Retrosound Hermosa. I think it is a good option if you want to keep the "classic" look. The only issue is that is not that intuitive to use because in order to keep a classic look the buttons are not labeled. For speakers I have Kickers 5x7 in the doors and 6x9 at the rear. I also added a hidden Kenwood narrow subwoofer to the passenger kick panel area. The subwoofer made a whole world of difference in sound. You can't get too much bass out of the door speakers. I recently added tweeters to the dash.
    1 point
  20. Years ago, I owned a beautiful 1930 Model A Coupe, and was an active member in the San Fernando Valley Chapter of the Model A Ford Club of America. I drove my car everyday ,although it was as clean or cleaner than most, but no show car. At one point, I actually worked at Thee Antique Ford Shop, in Reseda, for a man who owned four himself, and did concourse restorations, to radiator flushes, on A's and early V8s . Interesting point, is that during this time, the judging standards changed from allowing Cad plated engine hardware, to saying that Black Oxide was now the appropriate fastener finish . This, many, many years, after Henry Ford had passed, and 42 years after the cars were first built. It was easy enough to comply, but I call Bullshit! Remember, that you can take a 100 point award car from one show, one set of judges, and go to another show with a different set of judges, and not get 100 points. It happens all the time. Such is the heartache of show cars. Don't get me wrong, Show Cars are bitchin', and I've been lucky enough to go to Pebble Beach 3 times with a car, and I have many Gold, Silver, People's Choice, and Best of Show awards for restorations at various other shows I've been a part of over the years, but no more. Now, if I enter a show with some vehicle, I post a sign on it saying "Not In Competition", I go to show, not compete, even though I worked my Ass off to present it. Everybody has their own threshold, and passion level for this hobby, but today, I'm happier just being another gearhead out on the field, drinking a Pepsi and talking nuts and bolts with some other gearhead I just met. Maybe it's age, maybe it's wisdom, maybe a bit of both.
    1 point
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