Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/2021 in all areas

  1. Hello, I'm Chris and I own a '73 Mach 1. I attached a picture of the car. I originally bought the Mach about 16 years ago. It still has the numbers matching Q code 351CJ, C6 automatic and 3.25 Traction Lok 9 inch rear. The build date was 12-13-72. It is a original 5A Light Pewter Metallic/black deluxe interior car but needs to be repainted. It has some nice options like power steering/brakes, A/C, convenience group, console, full gauges with tachometer, fold down rear seat, leather wrapped 2 spoke wheel, forged aluminum rims, rear defroster, and tu tone hood with hood locks. Thank you for letting me join. Chris.
    1 point
  2. I need to! Kuz it takes me 99 years to build them :) I do use local anodes. sometimes I even start plate with these only to make sure they deposit more. But some metals simply do not plate easy using low acidic bath (the price of not using dangerous more effective chemicals). To give you an example. did my calipers. cast iron. They were with first local anodes then wider anodes around them. perfect, real thick deposit in just 1/2 hour, went from rough to the touch to silk smooth. This weekend also did the calipers brackets, also rough surface. Some corners and the part as a whole did not take as it usually do, you clearly see something that looks like magnetic fields, and it took ages to cover them, had to move anodes many times. That part is relatively small, smaller than the calipers and of a similar cast iron (you'd think) . Then tried one spindle, it was covered in no time despite its complex shape. So there are diffs in metals that greatly do affect the way the plating occurs. On plating sites, some pros recommend to flash acid them first as cast iron parts can have different levels of carbon, which creates some hydrogen gas that some how protects the surface from the zinc. Lots to learn in this field for sure. For the top arm, the problem is my too little power, it was at its max and could have used some extra juice, but got it covered as I wanted it, it just took ages. These do not need to be nice, they need be protected against corrosion. When you saw how they were, you know they've earned a better second life ;) thx for the lead sheet tip, gonna go search on that method. Lead would introduce toxicity (trying to keep the game safe), but may be the same principle could be applied by very thin sheet of another metal as its about conductivity and resistance.
    1 point
  3. from Germany! What a nice and well optioned car!
    1 point
  4. Hello and a warm welcome from SW Ontario, Canada. Nice car and well optioned.
    1 point
  5. Welcome! That is a beautiful Mustang!
    1 point
  6. Welcome from west Michigan.
    1 point
  7. Hello and Welcome from Michigan. Looks like a great car!
    1 point
  8. Hello and welcome from NC. I’ve always really liked the light pewter. Great car.
    1 point
  9. Welcome from northern California. mike
    1 point
  10. Welcome from Central New York. Very nice looking ride! Mike
    1 point
  11. welcome on board from Ohio - lots of good info on the forum, ask around if you need something.
    1 point
  12. Welcome from League City TX! She shore is sweet looking! Post more pics of the side, interior and most of all.....the engine!
    1 point
  13. Any car optioned with F60-15 tires received the space saver spare, whether it was the plain steel wheel or the Magnum.
    1 point
  14. Moved on to the interior... Found the front passenger floor area had been spray pained silver to cover up surface rust. Now I know why the heater core is bypassed in the engine compartment... Looks like I will be changing that out now while the car is like this. I will rust proof all the hidden areas while the interior is out also and install some dynamat along with the factory insulation. Dealt with the surface rust properly and the floorboard is still in great shape and I added some additional seam sealer where necessary. I will clean and re-lube all of the window moving parts as well. It’s always better knowing and dealing with if necessary; what is under the carpet, behind equipment in the long run...
    1 point
  15. I have couple cars with Decor group one a 73 and one a 72 convertible. You got the black out on the bottom or Argent. Also you got a Mach 1 grill if you ordered on your vert. Here is my 73. They trim is quite expensive and you can see they moved the trim on the 73 out of the space between the valance and fender. On the Mach 1 I do not think you got the trim if you had side stripe only if you just got the fender badge?? The 72 Mach 1 T-5 I have does not have the trim but has the argent with tape. The trim is held on with the Tee studs and a stud through the panel on each end. The do reproduce it but sell out fast when they make a run. If you had the roll form equipment super easy to make. The only pieces that are different between models and years are the front fender pieces. 71 - 72 same and 73 different.
    1 point
  16. I cant help you with your problem, but i absolutely LOVE the way the engine looks !!!!
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...