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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/2021 in all areas

  1. Today I picked up / had delivered my 7/72 Mach 1 in Gold glow. This baby is as stock as they come. All tags such as carby, engine, body tags are still in place. Interior is like new and is original. Was a 1 owner car from Texas. Just arrived in Melbourne Australia. Only rust is in the lower rear quarters. The rest of the body is sound. Still has drum brakes all round. Have ordered a Marty report to get an update as to factory options. Based on how I see it it has the following base / options: Mach 1 Sports roof, Gold glow, 351 2v, FMX Auto, 2.75:1 9"diff, standard ginger trim, fold down rear seat, AM/FM radio, optional 14" wheel covers. To get it on the road only needs some rubbers here and there, rust repair, plus the usual Aust changes such as seat belts, head lights, rubber brake lines etc. I have created a blog to document the work done on the car. - https://72mach1mustang.blogspot.com/
    2 points
  2. I purchased mine last week and today I had mine delivered. 72 Mach 1 H code, auto.
    2 points
  3. Thanks for the warm welcome! I learnt a lot from my first project which took best part of seven years to complete, I'm hoping to apply what I learnt to make this project even better! I fully anticipate that I will need to build a jig to work from, fortunately I have a four post as a datum, so I have a square and level platform to work from (something I didn't have first time round). It'll be interesting to see how square this thing is before I start cutting, I have no reason to believe it has ever had any damage, but the extent of the rot may have meant things have shifted. I have the Marti report, and I've sent the log book away to update the address since moving it, as soon as that comes back I want to see if I can get the original invoice from Marti, as retained by Lois Eminger, if the car has been over here since 73 they should still have it! As for previous project, brace yourselves...
    2 points
  4. Hmmmm. Dont think anyone here own's this? There are some possible red flags in my mind based on the very short description and not to great photos of the car as presented. However, this is a very rare car. Would love to have it... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Ford-Mustang/174721071849?hash=item28ae2ffae9:g:HiUAAOSwz-tgaykg
    1 point
  5. Finally I'm in a position to start my build thread! I bought this car back in 2010, I already had a project on the go but the price was right and I had storage to keep it until I was ready. Fast forward to 2021 and after completing my other build and settling down I'm now in a position to start the restoration. Car is a 73 Mach 1, H code, in Bright Red and left the factory with a white vinyl top. It came to England in 73 and has been here for essentially its entire life. The story goes that it was taken off the road in 93 to fix a transmission fault, but it never returned to the road, moving between owners and neglected until I bought it in 2010. I pulled it out of my storage last weekend and moved it to where I'm living now. My original plan was to sympathetically modify, but I have since learnt that it still has the original engine and trans, indicating a matching numbers car, apart from being neglected it does appear to be mostly original, although someone had a go at a few repairs somewhere along the way. Plans now are to restore, but I have a huge journey ahead, because it needs everything - and I'm not exaggerating! First job will be to tear it down and see how bad the rot is, then I'll need to make a decision about where to start, probably the floor pan, that should at least give me something solid to work from. Looking forward to getting stuck in!
    1 point
  6. Ever think about putting a tv in your back window? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2886773108311440/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined&referral_story_type=listing&tracking={"qid"%3A"6948739677535816452"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"4162040210507748"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A4162040210507748%2C\"target_type\"%3A0%2C\"primary_position\"%3A42%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A8800769816391581696%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A504%2C\"value\"%3A2.5165752508799e-5}"}
    1 point
  7. 7173vert, once I get to zero lash (with positive stop) I will put my ratchet handle to a clock position and then count how far it goes before the bolt starts reaching torque, (that will tell you how much preload you actually have. If over 1 full turn, will usually add one of the little Crane rocker shims, thinner of the two that usually come in a standard pack. Boilermaster
    1 point
  8. Get some of the stick on Velcro and put a strip across the back end to hold the mat.
    1 point
  9. I had an old Craig powerplay 8 track that had a similar slide in mount so you could move it from car to car.
    1 point
  10. Fair enough. That’s what I figured. The factory manual also goes through the sequence similar to your comments. I was aware of the adjustable lifter requirements as I have previously done the procedure exactly as you describe. Better safe then sorry....
    1 point
  11. The seats are exactly the same regardless of fold down or fixed rear seat.
    1 point
  12. You can safely bypass the entire system and feed directly from the PVS valve to the advance unit.
    1 point
  13. I have a Malwood clutch pedal and their hydraulic bearing. I'm also using a hydratech hydraboost brake system. Just bleed the bearing yesterday. Just need to mount the clutch fluid. Pedal feels very nice. Have to get the brake lines connected to really give it a drive though.
    1 point
  14. CLOSE!! YIPEE-KI-AYYY!
    1 point
  15. I have been shipping a few parts and some gun related stuff. I began using pirateship.com a lot. I was able to ship a rear bumper from MO to MI for about $25 via priority mail. They only use USPS but offer some deep discounts. My daughter knew all about it lol. It was $10 cheaper than UPS. Figure this might help lessen expenses for all of us. You do need a scale. I have a kitchen scale for under 10# and a bathroom scale for over 10#.
    1 point
  16. The engine compartment is painted with Krylon satin black. The rattle can restoration of the suspension is also going back together. I used VHT gloss black chassis paint on the suspension. Most of the parts have been cleaned, painted and ready to go back in. I need to route the new wiring harness and put stuff back together.
    1 point
  17. After that you mentioned it, vaguely recalling this claim. As Koni is/was a Dutch company (their headquarters are here), I went looking... after 1/2 hour going from blablawerethebestblabla screens to blablareallytoughblabla screens I've stopped. It's just another non transparent corporation doing its best to not be accessible to the average joe. Same for their distributors here. Took me less efforts to have them as they are now ;) They will receive a paint job when I'll spray other parts and that's when they will be better than new, because the hardware might be tough inside, the paint they've used on the outside is a really crappy porous thing that allowed rust to form underneath while the car has only been exposed to the dutch air, mainly the reason why they needed a massage rather than be just cleaned up. I have the very same ones on the 73, also repainted car color years ago and I do not expect have any issues with them. These together with the top arm, spindles, guards and few other bits are the only things dimmed of quality/worth keeping. For the rest, I've hurt piggy bad and all is new: most the steering components are Moog's (lower arm, sleeves, saddles, strut rod, tie rods etc), brakes are all new, rotors, callipers, SS lines, flexible... New doesn't perse mean durable. I will probably plate/repaint a few of these parts as many are just protected from rust by an oil film or some cheapo black paint..
    1 point
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