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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/14/2021 in all areas

  1. 72 Q-code, Ram Air, C6, 3.25:1 Traction Lock, competition suspension, PDB, AM/8 track, instrumentation group, A/C, white with black interior, black top, 15 x 7 Magnum 500s, space saver spare. I bought it in 1977 from the original owner.
    2 points
  2. If you guys were closer I would help ya out in a heartbeat. Good luck in the rest of the build.
    2 points
  3. Brett, first, congratulations to your finished paint job. It is always an overwhelming feeling when it's done and you see it the first time. And I can understand your feelings watching it the second time. You want it good and you paid for it. From the one picture of the rear quarter I must say that is too much orange peel and if the whole car looks like this... that's not a result of a good, experienced professionell painter. What Kilgon said about ist absolutely correct. What your paint guy said is BS. It isn't a factor of money If your clear coat have to look good although higher quality paint costs more. It is more a factor of the paint guy who ist not experienced enough and has not learned his lessons with a paint gun. My painter was a professional painter from Mercedes Benz and painted the car in a climate controlled paint cabin I paid for. The car was prepared one day before painting in this cabin. The paint has absolutely no orange peel but here and there a tiny dust corn if you look at it in a certain angle of light like a picky pennypicker. My paint guy said that's how it goes but it is not a Problem. It is a matter of the so called finish he will do after the paint has completely dried out after months and when I assembled the car. Then he would need the car ONE day and it will be finished. The finish will be included in the price. To prove this he finished the hood with the TuTone paint. The result ist absolutely outstanding: flat and shiny like a mirror without any spots. So in a work of a professional painter a so called finish is and should normally always included. Surely, with such orange peel it will be some more work than with a flat surface. But that's his fault and should be his problem to do it right. That said I would nail him on the above said. But no matter was I said the car and its color looks great and the orange peel could be removed. As long as the paint work is not cloudy, no paint peeling, no overspray, no bubbling, it will be a matter of time and experience
    2 points
  4. Looks really great from the pics. The price of the paint or clear does not have any thing to do with orange peel. Some paint is more forgiving when spraying but even the cheapest of the lot can be sprayed to look as good as top dollar. Orange peel is caused by a number of things such as cold temperature or a reducer that dries to fast not allowing the paint to flow. Also over spray or too low pressure when spraying are a few of the causes just to name a few. Granted now paint job is 100% perfect but if it is as you described I would push for him to make it right without the extra cost.
    2 points
  5. My lady'S MACH 1 and NOT the painter
    2 points
  6. Is anyone reproducing the black mini console for our cars?
    1 point
  7. Decided It was time to tackle this project. First off, there is an awesome video from west coast classic cougar about this, and they also have a service to restore your old ones as well if you don’t feel comfortable enough to tackle it. I had 4 motors, one worked. The other better looking one had a damaged armature which you can see in pics. This would cause it to loose contact and intermittently stop working. I pulled apart the other two which were in far worse condition but was able to clean up the armature and put it in and the second one worked! move on to the last one and it was super ugly but removed and cleaned brushes, had to replace the springs that keep them up against the armature (I used a good ol click pen spring, worked great) then cleaned contacts, brushes, armature, all the rust out with a wire brush and greased up and alive it came! So now I’ve got a working set and a back up. I’m happy to help out if you have any questions but honestly that video is pure gold.
    1 point
  8. Beautiful Mustang Kilgon!! The painter of our car should be the one to "finish" our car not some detail shop. Just before our painter painted the body I expressed my hopes that it turns out well enough to "show" the car and like you have business cards available. Also if we did put a poster board together that his shop would be listed as paint and bodywork. Unless he changes his mind in the very near future, which I doubt, I won't be recommending his shop. I get the impression our painter is pushing us to pay and get lost.
    1 point
  9. Here is a pic of the space saver in place and will door down. A couple of the pictures before I cleaned the car up. The Space Saver spare is a BF Goodrich thing. Had an inflation canister to pump up on the car. There was a recall on them to put in a pop off valve. Some people got injured and maybe a couple deaths. They were pumping up using compressor and the tires would explode. It is not easy to find the right year for our cars and quite expensive also. You have to be careful I see ads on E-bay stating for 71 -73 but actually from later model in Lincoln and also Granada. Markings are different on the side they can easily go for $600 USD. The canisters are also hard to find you can get a repo label and repaint the old if you have it. I did not have a pic with the canister in the car the spring on the spare tire mount is what holds the canister your trunk lid should have a sticker showing location and how everything goes in. If you do buy a space saver spare make them inflate and show that it is not rotten. If kept in the dark out of sun they do hold up pretty good no cracks in mine.
    1 point
  10. I've been following this thread sort of in the background so to speak. I know what you mean and it's frustrating when things just don't get done right. I could list a pile myself with my car's repaint and refit of parts, but that's not why I'm here posting today. On your car, my only hope if the "kid" who painted it (he looks like a kid in the pic) put sufficient clear coat on to cope with removing half of it during wet sanding. If he blows through it, he'll have to clear it again and that may cause other problems. Anyway on the plus side, while I'm not a fan of green anything (unless it's a Grabber Lime Mach 1) that car is going to look awesome when finally done. Trust me, once all the "stuff" is back on it, you will love it.
    1 point
  11. Thanks Kevin! Yourself and many, many members here have been a great help. I sure wish we all lived in the same town.
    1 point
  12. At least I know what mine is worth lol
    1 point
  13. Very nice turtle5353! I read through that build and it helped plan ours. After a couple of back and forth texts that were less than acceptable. The "manager" (a.k.a. my wife) of this project has informed the bodyshop to fix the emblem holes and we will hire a professional to wet sand and buff. He's had her Mach 1 for far too long and it is time it comes home.
    1 point
  14. The car does look good, it just needs finished. No painter worth a damn stops at this point on a car of this caliber. Wet sanding and buffing is the normal next step in the process. Unless it’s a beater car that you run back and forth to work. Better clearcoat does lay down nicer but so can cheaper clear if you shoot it properly. And any clear can be sanded flat and buffed to a glass like finish. I agree the hood will probably crack later down the road. I don’t understand how bodyshops stay in business doing work in this fashion. I spray all my stuff in a small 2 car garage and it comes out very nice. No spray booth needed if you follow up with a nice cut and buff. I would definitely have a talk with him. 80 hours for cut and buff is ridiculous. 15-20 hours should suffice. Especially if it’s still in pieces like it is. Here’s a few pics of the last car i wet sanded and buffed It’s a good bit of work but hoes fast if you know what you are doing
    1 point
  15. Went I first saw this number I was wondering why complain about it, but then I realized that the asking price is actually $17,500. I wonder how will it pay "you" back. Maybe a heart attack!
    1 point
  16. Ok, handling with a painter is always a sensitive thing. Don't ask me how I know... I would not go in with a sledge hammer conversation wise in this stadium. Although you could explode like a steam cooking pot try to handle with care! First try to explain in a friendly manner what are your concerns and overthink before you speak what you have to speak. All in all the finish in the paint job doesn't look too bad but it needs a good finish job! And there are always some spots which could be better and which were forgotten or showed the first time after paint. I think this is what every guy with a painted car here knows - every car has its hidden spots... But so they where also from the factory. I want to say you have to live with one or two imperfections which are not obvious for the first and the second watch and could only be known by the owner of that car until he shows it to a visitor. Otherwise it will be never known... But it should be not that obvious. What would piss me really off are the filled hood molding and the uneccessary holes in the fender! For a 71-73 Mustang lover it's simply not right. There are greater problems on the world than this but I would react the same. Its only a matter of time the hood molding shows cracks to the hood. He could have glued it onto the body without filling it and it would have looked like original. But why didn't you buy a better molding before teh job? The paint structure could be perfected and is only a matter of negotiations and then experienced handling. The color and its spread look fantastic! So go in the negotiations eeeeasy and see how it will evolve... If it will turn out bad you could pack out your steam hammer anyway.
    1 point
  17. I would just cut it out and replace it with a new one. You can get those grommets at any auto store or even a hardware store. Note the plastic white straight connector in my pic. With that in place, you can always disconnect the tube if you need to remove the hood for any reason.
    1 point
  18. Did your car come with gauges? The ammeter has nothing in common with the other 3 gauges, which are powered by the instrument voltage regulator. The panel lights may be burned out, improperly installed, or have bad sockets. The tachometer likely isn't connected correctly. Red wire to switched 12 volts, black wire to ground, green wire to negative pole (that connects to distributor) of coil. Make sure you are getting 12 volts to the red wire when ignition switch is on, nothing when switch is off.
    1 point
  19. Ammeter barely moves in the best (worst?) conditions and is independent of the other gauges. You can test the gauges by removing the sending unit line at the unit (e.g. fuel, oil pressure, water temperature) and briefly grounding the plug: the gauge should peg high. If not, the most likely suspect is a bad constant voltage regulator on the back of the dash cluster. This CVR DOES NOT control the ammeter or lights. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is not suspect. I've found the input line into the CVR may have high resistance (more than the 9.5 ohms), but you should still see some gauge movement. I suspect your dash cluster connector pins need cleaning (a good pencil eraser works well). If none of this helps, it is time for a thorough investigation of wiring for more trouble-shooting. Your aftermarket tach needs 3 signals: ground, power, and a signal coming from the - side of the coil. It is independent of the rest of the dash cluster.
    1 point
  20. We saw the Mach 1 with fresh paint. Some misgivings. Some frustrations. I probably need to sleep on it. Mainly lots of orange peel and a feeling that painter was reluctant to deal with it. Offering 80 (@$65/hour) hours of labor to polish/buff out orange peel. The level of orange peel that I saw was explained as that was the difference in $350/gal of clear versus $600/gal. I chose the $350 or mid grade as how it was explained, months ago. I really don't know paint and was hoping that a friend could have shown up with us, but he was working late. Maybe I was expecting too much. I said more than I wanted to as I said I wanted to sleep on it. It does look good in pics though.
    1 point
  21. David is that you sitting on the front porch with your lady friend? And is your 73 parked out back?
    1 point
  22. Holy Shamolee! It's a real Bobby-Dazzler!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    1 point
  23. Stop buying springs that are for multiple years, body styles, and engines. Go to the Eaton Detroit Springs website and buy springs specifically for your car, you'll also have the options of various spring rates, and they have a lot of information and videos on their website EATON Detroit Spring - The leading manufacturer of leaf and coil springs for the street rod and restoration industries
    1 point
  24. 73 Red, white top, white interior (used to be anyway...), 351C, broken top motor, now it's just a permanent soft-top roof, working on replacing the FMX with an AOD
    1 point
  25. It isn't that great of a picture. It does look worse in person. Our bodyman said the metal is "stretched" badly and that it would require more labor than replacing the whole 1/4. Sure wish I had the skills to do the parts replacing myself as this project has now blown out the budget I had in mind. But I really want this for my wife. So it will be done. I could go on and on as to why I am in a hurry to fix up my wife's Mustang. I'll explain it as simply as possible. Maybe there will be some readers that would get it and most may not; I owe my wife a lot for sticking with me as long as she did through the years of my alcoholism. I am in my 18th month of sobriety and I am trying to make up for lost time. That is it in a nutshell.
    1 point
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