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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/16/2021 in all areas

  1. These days they may add a little bit of COVID to make the sway bars stiffer.
    2 points
  2. Biggest thing is to not go too aggressive with your sanding or buffing. ESPECIALLY on corners and edges. Don't run the buffer too fast or build up excessive heat. Its very easy to burn through fresh clear and paint. To be honest if you have never done it before , I probably wouldn't recommend starting on this car! You can do way more harm than good if your not careful. Your water and paper have to stay clean, clean, clean. If your getting dirt nibs out first, make sure they don't stick to your paper because they will scratch the hell out of the clear if they get embedded in the paper.
    2 points
  3. StreetorTrack's full coilover conversion.
    1 point
  4. These are the JRi (single adjustable) that came with my Maier MOD1 suspension. I still need to test drive the car but from what I hear this is a very high quality brand. Seen here with the Hyperco spring and the new UCA.
    1 point
  5. So here's the finished watts link.I have loved these cars my whole life,but in building this one I am learning more and more about just how different these cars are from the 70 and earlier cars.They pretty much just share the Mustang name and the control arms pretty much nothing else Mustang applies.When they redesigned the car that included the rear suspension also.It might not look it but it is different.The rear of the springs are mounted higher in the chassis thus lowering the rear of the car as compared to earlier Mustangs. This changes where the roll center is as compared to a 69/70 TA c
    1 point
  6. That's the throttle position solenoid, also called the anti-diesel solenoid. The automatic choke is on the other side of the carburetor. The reason Ford connected the automatic choke to the stator terminal on the alternator is because the only time you get voltage to the choke is when the engine is running. The red/yellow hash wire is a key on wire and provides 12 volts when the key is in the run position.
    1 point
  7. Hi there. From what the pictures is telling me the welds look like there just sitting on top. No penetration. Do a lap weld is ok just as long as both sides are sealed. Butt weld would be much Better. Bite the bullet pick up some behind the seat pants and do it right.cut out old metal and install new with a good structural weld.
    1 point
  8. I believe that raises the idle a bit when you turn the A/C on. Exact name, I am not sure.
    1 point
  9. Thanks Timachone, Geoff, Kevin and all others. Tim there were some major panel replacement; full floor, drivers quarter panel, tail panel, core support and battery tray apron. We brought the car to the shop in a very disassembled state. The only thing remaining on the body were the doors which only had the door latch and interior door handle. The front coil springs were replaced with wood 4"X4" blocks. We settled on a final price to get the Mach 1 into paint post structural repairs and before final primer coat. It was a verbal contract sealed with a handshake for $18000. Three days a
    1 point
  10. Drill out spot welds and remove seat platform and you will have access to good sheetmetal underneath. Cut out old nasty pans, weld in new. Just replace what’s bad.
    1 point
  11. 2021 marks our 50th anniversary together.....she has aged far better than I have!
    1 point
  12. In the beginning......A coworker I've known for almost 10 years owned a 1971 Boss 351 he bought in Jan 1977. This car was his baby and for the last 40+ years has tried to faithfully maintain it even though his mechanical skills are limited. So, five years ago he retired and moved with his English wife back to England (he used to be in the Air Force). Before he left he practically begged me to buy his Boss because he knew I could/would take care of it....almost an adoption. In a former life I used to work in the service dept of a new car dealership and possess the mechanical tools and
    1 point
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