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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/21/2021 in Posts

  1. You sure thats not off your John Deere???
    4 points
  2. Here's how it looks under my A/C compressor. I like it.
    3 points
  3. Maybe, it was like this from the factory? As delivered to me on my 71 J Code Vert in 2015... It was black under this colorful example.
    2 points
  4. Thanks, David and Trig. This car didn't have a rear window defroster, wasn't a convertible, has seatbelt light above the dash, and this car didn't have the factory convenience group with the parking brake warning light. The holes were not lined up very well, had rough edges, and were off size, so after cleaning up, I welded them closed. A little grinding cleaned them up, and then a skim coat of body filler and a little sanding... And then some primer and the dark charcoal metallic paint and Voila!! So that is done, and while it's not perfect, I think it came out pretty good. Thanks again, to all who replied. I wanted to make sure I didn't delete something that I would wind up needing and then have to redrill a hole there, or something. I was tempted to leave one for a button and label it "Passenger Ejection Seat" but the wife was not to keen on that, so all three were deleted. Again, thanks,guys for all the help.
    2 points
  5. Thanks for the tip on the paint! She came out looking pretty darn good in my opinion!
    2 points
  6. Yes and here is the Info. In pdf form. Is there a particular section I can file this info on this site. For example most of the tractor clubs I belong to have a public file where people upload Technical info such as manuals,photos, etc.. Thanks 302 1971-unibody-dims-2.pdf 1971-unibody-dims.pdf
    1 point
  7. Wow, Chris! That pump looks new - No - better than new. It looks awesome. You did a great job on it.
    1 point
  8. Chris, one thing I don't recall you mentioning was connection to the original light plug socket. What if anything did you need to do to connect the new LED's?
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. Wire 16 (red w/ light green stripe) is connected to the ignition switch run terminal. 32 (red w/ light blue stripe) is connected to the ignition switch start terminal.
    1 point
  11. 1.8 amps equates to a power draw of about 22 watts (at 12 volts), 40 watts equates to a current draw of about 3.3 amps.
    1 point
  12. This global warming is killing us all. Freaking Al Gore...............
    1 point
  13. 110+, this is what I woke up to today. 6" f'n snow!!!
    1 point
  14. Thanks for posting this Chris, I am ordering these. Tired of being blinded by all the new cars headlights. I don’t drive at night to much, but these should make it much easier to see. I’ve got halogens with a relay now, which is much better than stock but I’m sure theses are even brighter. Thanks again!
    1 point
  15. Looks great! I’ve seen a similar color on the pumps before, but not sure if it was from factory. But as far as when your car was built, that’s almost a mid year build. Production for the next model years started end of August or the beginning of September. Anyway looking good and hopefully it is running as good as it looks!
    1 point
  16. I'll second that, droptop73. I think this is a change I definitely want to make even though I don't do a lot of night driving in the Mach. Then I can say ALL my lights are now LED type!! (with the exception of the ALT bulb in the idiot light cluster)
    1 point
  17. I really like those Chris. That's what I've been looking for. Too many of the LED headlights look gaudy to me. Thank you for the links!
    1 point
  18. Body shop was not happy with the way the bonnet looked. Felt it needed something extra so put some inserts on
    1 point
  19. Here is the color spectrum which was on the pump before it get restored by me: Dark blue, middle blue, light blue, black and rusty red - I didn't knew which one was original although I knew most of it was overspay from engine "make up" over the years
    1 point
  20. Brett, that looks cool. Hope you have all parts together soon! Here, I found a small consolation plaster for you: Think of that moment you (especially and not forgotten your wife) will it see that way and it will drive you through that difficulties. Don't ask, how I know... All the best and keep us up to date
    1 point
  21. Chris, I can't help with "the right" color other than that I have only seen black ones on the '73 including mine but who knows when they were changed, overhauled, paint oversprayed/restored et cetera... But, what I can say: yours looks fantastic! Like it was meant to be there that way. Perhaps this color combination was more on the early cars and this pump is from an earlier car but who cares if you don't go the strict concourse route. It's your car, you like it and it looks perfect - win win win
    1 point
  22. This is a pic from my 72 convertible.
    1 point
  23. Painter found some more parts to paint today. Pretty sure he forgot about the bumper til yesterday. Hoping to get the Mach 1 home this Friday. I like to solve complex problems. Can't wait to dig into this project on our own turf once again.
    1 point
  24. Nice!!! Blue is my favorite color. The tunnel ram will look great cleaned up and sitting on a shelf! Or you could buy another hood and......
    1 point
  25. There should be the brake light and if you had rear window defogger the light to show it is on and the switch also. Not a great pic but you can see the switch, warning lights to the left of the light switch. The warning light for rear window defogger is maybe 3/8" not as big as yours.
    1 point
  26. I bought these items on Amazon because I wanted LED without the look of the new ones with halos and goofy colors and stuff. I wanted to retain a original look but reap the benefits of LED. The item says fog lights, but they are really hi/low. --This is without relays.
    1 point
  27. I believe I do. At least I have not pulled it off yet. I think it is there. I will try to get a pic later this week. i have been going way too slowly stripping this. I hope to hit it hard Saturday if weather cooperates.
    1 point
  28. Right now it's just a blunt end cut and "C" brackets that wrap around the rail just below the shock crossmember. I'll probably just do an angle cut at whatever makes sense and cap it with .125" steel. I have a couple other tweaks that I need to make before I'm ready to weld. Had a nice FB Marketplace buy this weekend, responded to an ad for a pair of toploaders and while I was there, also picked up a nice Weiand 351C tunnel ran for dual 4500 Dominators. I'll never use it, but it looks awesome on the shelf....
    1 point
  29. The holes do not look factory made. I have a 73 Mach 1 and it has 3 holes in that area. The left hole is for the rear defrost switch, the center hole is for the rear defrost is "on" indicator light, the right hole for the parking brake warning light which is part of the factory convenience group.
    1 point
  30. Like any little job, it would be easier the second time! But not much to it. Was lucky Motor City Mustang had the pieces I needed! Little by Little, My High School Mach 1 is coming along! Brad
    1 point
  31. That's a ton of work for just coming off surgery!
    1 point
  32. My early build, (Sept. 71), '72 Mustang has two lights to the left of the head light switch. One is for seat belts and the other for parking brake. Not a good picture but all I have. My original lights are in storage, have to try to restore one day as the plastic needs work. The ones there now are my creation. Yours are defiantly made by someone other then a skilled tech lol.
    1 point
  33. The two leftmost holes are normal, the one closest to the lamp switch is not.
    1 point
  34. I'd weld them up, those had to be for JC Whitney catalog finds. Kind of a trip how a standard drill bit does not make a round hole in Sheetmetal.
    1 point
  35. I can think of uses for two of them. In 1971 cars, the hole to the left of the light switch was for a Belts warning lamp. It was not very sophisticated - just a timer. Later that lamp was replaced with a Park lamp to indicate when the parking brake was set. The seatbelt lamp moved to the dash above the glovebox door. To the left of that was the power top/heated backlight switch. Not sure what a 3rd hole would be for. A photo might help.
    1 point
  36. I would not weld them. If the dash is original to the car then certainly keep them. I believe they may be for parking brake, seat belts and something else?. I have seen them with 2 small holes and my cars have 1 i think? The little lighted bezels may be a huge pita to find. I just can't recall for certain what they all are. Sorry so following to hear what thos emote knowledgeable have to say. A pic of the area may be helpful for some.
    1 point
  37. Well... I did watch to see what I used maybe it’s worth a try on yours?
    1 point
  38. The hoods will have too much arch. You have to physically bend them to fit the fenders. That way on any car mustang or camaro. They do not weld the hem so you can change it.
    1 point
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