Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/03/2021 in all areas

  1. I have never cared what other people thought about the 71-3’s... I like them, would never own any other. Nothing wrong with the 73’s either....
    5 points
  2. Greetings.......These are the over rider traction bar mounts for the chassis and the axle.I made them out of 1/8'' and patterned them from a Shelby team car.They tie into the chassis at the rear torque boxes,The frame rails,and into the inner rockers.The holes are for 5/8'' heims.Next will be relocating the axle bump stops to the inside of the frame rails and notching the frame for the axle mounted traction bar mount.
    3 points
  3. I have them in my 73 (bought that one first). Decided against them on my 72. I REALLY like the look, especially on the boss blackout (which my 72 does have)... But they are a bit finicky and you have to adjust them just right or they cause a valley around them on that long hood. It makes a sort of halo around them in the light. The area they go on is not very strong. For what it’s worth, the latch already has a safety catch, so they aren’t terribly necessary. I have heard of guys disabling them and just having the upper part to get the look without the hassle. I was actually kinda tempted to do that; it’s no different than my fake ram-air vents I guess. In the end I decided to forgo them. That said, I remember one of the members did add them after paint with excellent results, and documented it. I bet if you do a search you can find the thread. Lastly, I read an article once where a guy recessed them, which maybe helps with the valley... not sure but it looks very cool. I saved the picture of it, I liked it so much:
    2 points
  4. The primary reason for this thread was to discus reducing the amperage across the headlight switch and increase the power to and the brightness of the headlights. Another benefit of reducing the amperage consumed by the headlights is increasing available power (and voltage) to most of the rest of the car. All of the electrical systems in these cars is fed by that fat yellow wire that runs from the solenoid or terminal through the firewall and under the dash, except for power windows, convertible top, and heated rear window. All wire, including copper wire, has a small resistance to the flow of electricity which creates a voltage drop in the wire which is dissipated as heat. The higher the amperage draw through the wire the greater the voltage drop. Eliminating the current draw to the headlights, even LEDs, frees up voltage to the rest of the electrical systems, such as turn signals, brake lights, taillights, parking lights, heater blower, radio, dome lights, and the ignition system.
    2 points
  5. I'm converting my old burned out dash lights to LED lights and was wondering if there's an easy way to test the cluster before installing it to make sure the light bulbs are working okay. I've already installed it once and found some weren't working, and it's a PITA to go back and forth with it. It would be much easier to do if I could hook up a battery and check it first. I tried the link someone posted some time ago and it doesn't pull the video up anymore. Thanks
    1 point
  6. Oh yes -- big shake down after all my work and boy - now feels like a new car -- I'm going to have to change my signature from the old green one .
    1 point
  7. It's in the tutorial section Hood lock install - Exterior, Body, Chassis & Paint - 7173Mustangs.com
    1 point
  8. Best wishes for you and your family brother. You and your family are in my prayers. Tom
    1 point
  9. Best wishes to you and your family. I hope everything goes well. Family does come first. The car will still be there when you can get back to it. (And so will we... waiting for an update) Mike
    1 point
  10. As I asked originally " We need relays why?" thanks to your detailed and informative replies, I now know why they are needed. We've been all over the map on this thread and from reading others replies, a lot has been learned, for me especially. As you've read, I made a bad choice and bought a cheapo Chinese relay that did not work. I ought to have at least bought a better quality relay, which is still on the to do list. Adding that can't hurt anything other than the piggy bank. Thanks Don for your insight, it is much appreciated.
    1 point
  11. I just did the gas tank in my 73 this weekend. For getting old fuel out, the easiest way is to remove the hose clamp on the driver's side at the bottom of the tank and pull the rubber hose off the outlet to the tank. Be ready to catch the gas as it comes pouring out. Slightly less easy, but less messy, is pumping or siphoning. Open the trunk and remove the fuel filler neck. Then I dropped a 4ft length of clear tubing down in the tank. Put your finger over the end of the tube and slowly pull it out. Once you get it out far enough, you can take your finger off the end and suction will start draining gas out of the tank. As long as the end of the tube inside the tank is under the surface of the gas, it'll keep dumping out. You can also disconnect the vapor hose in front of the tank before you start dropping it. You don't need to stop half way through the process and try to wiggle your hand up to the top of the tank to get the hose loose there. The hose is about 18" long. I disconnected the connection at the hard line and dropped the tank with that hose attached to it. Worry about unhooking the hose from the top of the tank once you get it on the ground.
    1 point
  12. I think the shop that did work on my car got the harness from NPD. That’s where they get a lot of their parts from. Looks just like the one in my car now. I had the Scott Drake halogens too. They were much better than the original lights and probably the best thing Scott Drake made in my opinion. But these new leds are much brighter.
    1 point
  13. My prayers for all of you. I sincerely hope the best. I was going to offer to help but looked where you are....that is a bit far. Let me know if you need anything other than prayers.
    1 point
  14. +1 on the needle and seat. It could be something in the needle and seat or it could have developed a "stick". I have seen both several times over the years. Chuck
    1 point
  15. No need for any apologies here! This has changed the direction of my build. I went with the relay kit, Hella globes and LED lights. I am very impressed with the results shown in this thread. I don't have power to my lights yet as I'm in the midst of rewiring the car as well. I like the classic look of the Hella globes and LED headlights were in the plan eventually. I also decided to use the 71-72 under bumper turn signals and convert the lights in my 73 grille to running lights just to be different LOL...
    1 point
  16. I'll second that on both counts.
    1 point
  17. Family comes first - the car will always be there waiting. Just make sure that you see some of the painters work so you know what to expect. Will say a prayer that all goes well for your wife and that you are blessed with a healthy son.
    1 point
  18. The glass jar holds 6 ounces, the spray unit is replaceable, they work more like a rattle can. Here's some more info Preval 9 oz. Complete Spray Gun-267 - The Home Depot Preval Power Unit-268 - The Home Depot
    1 point
  19. That paint may be available here, but in Merry Ol' England? Who knows. The warranty on those tires ran out a long time ago. Stop complaining and go get an ale.
    1 point
  20. Bad new starter solenoid: it is now stuck in the on position. Get another brand. If this is the one from AMK (concours quality), these are known to get stuck and should not be used, EVER.
    1 point
  21. Thanks Chris, That's the one I figured it would be. All the others seem to have different type connectors. This is great info for everyone. I'm on the fence about buying one at this time now due to cost. It may be in next years budget. This has proved to be a pretty long, drawn out thread, but I feel I/we have all learned a lot and that's what it's all about. Thanks to everyone who has added important info to Droptop 73's post and question.
    1 point
  22. I agree, that was always one of my pet peeves about our cars. Atleast its pretty easy to fix!
    1 point
  23. I like the looks, ride quality, steering, and tough drivetrain. I don't like the "flexible flyer" chassis that rusts if the car even sees a picture of the ocean. Chuck
    1 point
  24. Sorry if this is not in the correct location. I got a shareable 5% discount from rockauto.com Code: 170141642155253258 Thank You for Being a RockAuto Customer! Using your discount code is easy! Enter your discount code in the 'How Did You Hear About Us?' box without any other numbers or characters for an additional 5% savings. Discounts cannot be applied to shipping, gift certificates, or to an order once it is marked as shipped. Your code expires on June 13, 2021, 12:00 Midnight CT, so do not wait!
    1 point
  25. There are 4 things to worry about. First is the fuel sender, on the driver's side of the tank. You need to disconnect the wire harness and the fuel line. Next is the fuel filler neck. You will need to remove the screws holding the filler neck to the taillight panel, and the screws securing the filler neck grommet to the trunk floor. Make sure the filler neck is free to move about. There is a big rubber seal attached to the tank hanging on to it. Some WD-40 squirted in the seam can help free it up. You might be able to pull it out, but I doubt it at this point. Now look for two steel straps holding the tank to the car. The forward ends of the straps are captured by some slots in bodywork on the underside of the trunk floor. The rear ends are bolted to the car through some captive nuts in the bodywork behind the rear bumper. You MAY be able to remove these, but after 45+ years it's not likely. I have found it easiest to remove the rear bumper and rear valance - you can see what you are dealing with then. Support the tank as you remove these bolts. As the tank comes down, you will need to free the filler neck from the tank. The straps can be twisted 90 degrees or so to free them from the bodywork forward of the tank. Finally, as the tank comes down, there is a vent on the top of the tank with a rubber hose connected to it. Remove the hose and your tank is free.
    1 point
  26. The way things are going with restrictions, you'll have lots of time to work on projects. To replace my 73 vert, decided to go a bit more modern. For some reason, I keep finding blue exterior colors to my liking. Not much needed to do with this one except enjoy the drive.
    1 point
  27. Just wanted to share my windshield installation. I notice a couple of other post but there wasn’t much for the front windshield. I hope this will help someone in the future. Some of the prep work I did first was to recoat the two window rest brackets. They originally had a rubber coating on them that was dried out and brittle. I consider different ways to replace it and ended up deciding to use Plasti Dip rubber coating. I dipped each rest 4 times to build up a nice layer. Next, I checked the window frame area to make sure all areas were smooth and clean. I finished up by replacing all the molding clips with new ones. Make sure these are seated all the way down. I installed the rest brackets. Next with the aid of my helper (wife) we did a dry fit of the windshield. This is to check the clearance around the edges and to see if any shims might be needed on the rest to raise the windshield up. In my case I needed to add a shim on the right side. I used a piece of rubberized plastic. After reading several articles I decided to use 3M ribbon sealer as the adhesive. The following is the list of material I used. Plasti Dip 3M Ribbon Sealer - 08612 3M Primer – 08682 Don’t forget to get a windshield channel for the bottom. I used the primer on both the car and the windshield. During the dry fit I mark the windshield at the bottom where it makes contact with the car body. You will need this to know where to put the primer on the windshield at the bottom. I took the 3m ribbon and in one continuous strip place it on the car. DO NOT remove the backing. If you remove it make sure to put back on before placing the windshield in place. Using a small piece of wood about 4 inches long I went around the frame and pressed down with a little pressure on the ribbon sealer to make sure it was adhered to the frame. With the outer edge of the window primed and the channel on the bottom we went ahead and put the windshield in place. Since the backing is still on the sealant you can adjust the windshield as need. Once you are satisfied with its placement you can remove the backing. To do this sit in the car and push the top of the windshield out a couple of inches. You helper can then remove the backing from the sealant. Once remove allow the windshield to rest back in on the sealant. Now you will want to go around the windshield and press it into the sealant to set it in place. Once done you go ahead and put your trim back on. Several things to note. The painter had painted the A pillar and below the top of the cowl on the side. These areas can be seen through the glass so you will need to black them out. I had to remove the dash to get back in these areas to touch up with paint. You do not need to apply a lot of pressure to set the glass. The ribbon is 3/8 inch and I figured I compressed it down to 1/4 inch. Windshield rest brackets cleaned and primed . I painted black before I dipped them. After 4 dips. Note that I cut the backing tape at the corners but not the sealant. The two ends meet in the middle at the bottom. You can peel it off while placing the sealant just make sure you place it back on before installing the windshield. We placed the windshield on top of the roof since we needed the hood open and there were only 2 of us. Used a movers blanket for protection. Note the red paint along the A pillar and at the bottom. These areas need to be blacked out. Even with the A pillar trim in place you will see some body color. I put tape where the clips are so I know where to press when putting the molding back on. Window in and done.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...