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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/06/2021 in all areas

  1. Man thank you all so much for the kind words and support. I dropped the car off at the painter yesterday I can’t wait to share pics with everyone! im headed back up to anchorage to be with my wife and soon enough we will have our son which I’m so ready for, appreciate everyone!
    2 points
  2. LOL. I was just playing because it looked like you answered your own question. Made me chuckle and think of that song.
    1 point
  3. 1 point
  4. Wow—definitely family first. Best of luck and prayers for your wife and baby. The car will wait. I know this from experience, come see all my unfinished projects and then look at my kids’ race cars that are completed/ongoing race prep....and their massive pile of trophies. We’ve made a jillion memories Soap Box Derby racing all over the United States, and I wouldn’t trade any of those memories for the time I gave up on my own stuff. Prayers!
    1 point
  5. If you have a backdrive rod installed the collar on your column will rotate when you move the shifter out of Park. If the collar doesn't move when you move the shifter somebody has already tossed the bacckdrive rod in the trash...
    1 point
  6. You can reinstall the backdrive rod from the shift linkage to the column - if it will clear your headers. In the past, I've used a zip tie through the lever on the column to any handy location on the firewall.
    1 point
  7. Sounds like you're experiencing the classic "engine run on" or "dieseling". It could be a symptom of all the things mentioned - timing, overheating and/or a vacuum leak. You could also have your idle speed set too high, fuel percolating in the bowls, poor quality fuel, too high a heat range plug,or about a dozen other things. I'd start with the carburetor, if that's all you changed. Check for vacuum leaks around the baseplate, make sure all vacuum hoses and plugs are in place and in good shape. Set the idle to factory spec and make sure the timing is where it needs to be. Ford had some interesting ways of reducing emissions in 71, and one involved retarding the timing to require a larger throttle opening to allow more air into the mixture at idle. This caused engine run-on, so they equipped the carburetor with a throttle position solenoid, that would snap the throttle shut when the ignition was switched off. If you aren't able to cure the issue, then the solenoid will definitely help.
    1 point
  8. Overheating and/or timing ? ...send your car over here to the UK and I'll check it all out for you ....for a very, very, very long time
    1 point
  9. Well, my guess it ain't Mustang, or as you say, for an earlier model. I would like to see where it connects to the spring or spring mount as I know it will be different to a car with sway a bar. I think I posted pics of the new correct (replacement) bar. If you need more detail, let me know. Ok, I did not post a pic of the actual bar, just the location of holes. Here's a pic.
    1 point
  10. Yes. Unfortunately that's how it is designed. Definitely one of the drawbacks is that it only recirculates air. At least I still have the driver's side air inlet working since my car was original non-air.
    1 point
  11. Family comes first - the car will always be there waiting. Just make sure that you see some of the painters work so you know what to expect. Will say a prayer that all goes well for your wife and that you are blessed with a healthy son.
    1 point
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