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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/27/2021 in Posts

  1. The AC bracket acts as a spacer. Chuck
    1 point
  2. The D0AZ number looks to be correct. Maybe the tube is wrong???? Find an oil that has high ZDDP in it (1200-1600 PPM). Your cam and lifters will thank you. Chuck
    1 point
  3. In the picture of the electric pump in wheel well. I noticed you have the old toothed clamps. Next time you are at your parts store look at the fuel injection hose clamps they are smooth and to not mess up the hoses. Here is pic of some on my transmission cooler.
    1 point
  4. The orange/red wire goes to the dimmer switch, where the switch transfers power to either high or low beams. A second orange/red wire from that same plug powers the sportslamps. Just cut that wire somewhere between the dimmer switch and the driver's side sportslamp, terminate the end from the dimmer switch, and use the other end for your relay output.
    1 point
  5. My pleasure. Regarding the 'don't fix it if it ain't broke' sentiment: mine was broken beyond repair when I got it, so I decided to modernize as I brought it back from the dead. All said and done, I think I probably only spent around $30 more for the electric pump set-up than a mechanical pump, but then again, the mechanical pump didn't fit into my plans for EFI, anyway... so that would've been money wasted.
    1 point
  6. I'm with Hemikiller on torque specs. Overtightening and under-tightening nuts and bolts have destroyed a lot of components on cars. If I can't find a torque spec on something I use the generic torque tables for the size and grade of bolt. The oil pan specs are 11-13 ft.lbs. on 5/16" bolts and 7-9 ft.lbs. on 1/4" bolts. Do not attempt these torque specs with even a 3/8" drive torque wrench, they likely won't be accurate at these low values. Use a 1/4" torque wrench and multiply the foot-pound values by 12 to get inch-pound values.
    1 point
  7. When I built mine, after having to crank, and crank, and crank with my '80 CJ-7 [and its mechanical pump] before it would catch and fire after sitting for months and weeks on-end, I decided I would be going with an electric fuel pump - this car will never be a daily driver, after all. It also played into my plan of eliminating as much parasitic drag on the engine [to free up more power] by taking the mechanical fuel pump out of the equation to go along with 'roller everything' (my theory, anyway). I originally went with a Holley Blue rotary vane pump, but it was just too loud, so I switched to a Holley Mighty Mite 12-427 32 GPH unit ( https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-427 ). This site said it's a good pump, but really loud ( https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/38374/electric-fuel-pump ) but I only notice it making any noise when I first hop in, turn the key to 'On,' and it starts priming the line - usually only takes a second or two. Honestly, I like hearing that - when the sound subsides, I know I can just tap the gas once, turn the key to 'Start,' and it'll fire right up. I mounted mine in the driver side rear wheel well, between the inner wheel house and frame, and made a nice shroud for it to keep the rock damage to a minimum. So far, so good!
    1 point
  8. I'm not sure, I'll take a look tonight and post
    1 point
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