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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/28/2021 in Posts

  1. Everyone always has their opinions of oil and filters I will share a couple I know for real. I am not religious on oil changes. I have not changed the oil in my 73 vert in 4 years. Seldom gets driven so why change. The myth about getting water in it from sitting I proved wrong when I sent the oil out of my Mach 1 off to be analyzed, 38 years it sat. Report came back zero water but high lead content due to leaded gas when the oil was last changed. My F-150 I have never changed oil as they recommend. When it is a quart low I add a quart when a quart low again I change oil and filter. 308,000 miles and only thing on engine touched was one coil pack, one emissions hose and alternaotr. I use the Ford 5 W 20 oil. On my lawn mower and I was engineering manager at a lawn equipment factory so I know them. I never changed the oil filter in almost 500 hours. The mower deck rusted out and cost more to replace so I got another engine still fine. BTW the design life for a low cost mower like at Lowes or Home DePot is 350 hours. John Deere even uses same design standards and testing. I change oil maybe 4 or 5 times in that mower. The instructor at local tech school I went to high school with decide to see what would happen. This was probably 20 years ago he bought a brand new Ranger Ford PU. He never changed the oil ever, just filter and add oil as needed. He sold the truck with 160,000 miles and later bought it back and over 200,000 miles. Never an engine issue. I have also been told by people on ships in the U.S. Navy that the oil that is put in the engines the day they leave port is still in there when they decommission them. Some went from WWII until end of gulf war for battleships without an oil change ever only filtered. I think we have been trained to change to sell more oil not because it is needed. Why would oil wear out just need to filter the contaminants out and go. Years ago you could by recycled oil that had been filtered look like new oil. Looks like I will test the old F-150 next week. My drivers license ran out and cannot rent a F-350 to pull enclosed car trailer and my Mach 1 to Carlisle, Penn. A 1,050 mile round trip if it makes it. Might be stranded in Virginia. I think it is up hill going both ways also.
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  2. Murdoc, I wouldn't put a lot of concern into what you see for oil specs on those 50-year-old dipsticks. The engineering number is more important as it is used to cross to the correct part number and verify the application. The SE-101 B, C, etc, is nothing more than '70s era lubrication specifications. This was an evolution of the ever-changing formulation that was required for the engine oil to meet the emissions of the era and a then, 6000-mile change interval. The SE category would indicate "S" as a gasoline engine oil and "E" as meeting 1971-1979 model year requirements. (SF would cover 1980-88) The second letter would constantly change as emissions control devices would put more load and heat on these engines, making oiling even more critical. For my '71 M code, the Ford spec is ESE-M2C101-B, for a '72 Q code Gran Torino is ESE-M2C101-C. I normally pour about 1/2 quart of oil into my oil filter before installing it (very quickly). That's something I miss on my FE engines with the filter setting straight up on the filter adapter. I eventually stopped checking my five-quart engines after an oil change. I knew 5 quarts were the factory fill and that was exactly what I had poured into them. When I did check the level it always showed full. (Sounds a little lazy, doesn't it)?!
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  3. Hello Murdoc, Not a dumb question. There is a lot of experience and knowledge here and asking questions is how we all learn. If you have a Ford passenger car that was not equipped with a performance engine (428,429 CJ/SCJ, Boss 302,351,429) then the factory fill is 5 quarts WITH filter. Whether it held a quart or not, Ford oil change capacities always allowed for 1 quart for the filter. The Ford oil change specification chart used by shop techs would show 4 quarts, 5 with filter when changing the oil on a standard 351. I know everyone doesn't have access to a vehicle lift. I used a set of ramps for years. The optimum procedure would be for the car to be level so all the oil drains back to the sump and none is in the shallow end because of the car angle. I always changed my oil with a warm engine so the oil would drain thoroughly. After refilling the engine I would crank and run the engine long enough to check for any leaks. After shutdown, I would wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the pan and then check the level. The original dipstick is D0AZ-6750-A and would be marked "D0AE-A". It was replaced by D5AZ-6750-B which would be stamped with "D5AE-AB". The dipstick tube was the same for all '70-74 351Cs. The only dimension that is given in the Ford Master Parts Catalog (MPC) is the 18 1/4" overall length. You may have to check the length from the flange where it seats to the block against a known correct tube. I hope you get everything sorted out.
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  4. Here's the conversion compressor: CONVERSION KIT, SANDEN STYLE ROTARY COMPRESSOR, R-134A - #19704-12B - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com) For the vacuum problem I would follow the troubleshooting procedures for the a.c. system that is in the shop manual Volume 3 Section 36-32. A vacuum hose may be the problem. Don't yank on the hoses, the vacuum switch is liable to be brittle.
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  5. The D0AZ number looks to be correct. Maybe the tube is wrong???? Find an oil that has high ZDDP in it (1200-1600 PPM). Your cam and lifters will thank you. Chuck
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  6. Then after that check to see if the part# on it is D0AZ-6750-A
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  7. Have you run the engine for a couple of seconds after adding the new oil to fill the filter? If not, check the level after ~15 seconds of running.
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  8. Arrived yesterday. Will install this weekend!! I will post some pics of the install!
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  9. Btw no rubbing what so ever, I could probably fit 295*40*18 in the back :-)
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