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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/31/2021 in all areas

  1. In my opinion it All depends what you want to do... if you are going concourse, then it will be expensive to get it all the concourse parts and harnesses (desirable if you have the $ and want to do it right). My car had the “map light delete plate” (a plastic cover that fills the hole) instead of the map light and no convenience group package...another option for you to consider...although I personally like the map light. I found one on eBay many years ago and installed it a about a month ago, with the help of this group and factory wiring diagrams. I wired it in myself...easy to do if you don’t mind modifying your stock wiring harness a little. My car is a base model, so I am adding certain options that I want as I go... it works great...comes on when you open the door, as it was designed to do, and by the switch if the door is closed. there is a few threads on the topic here...just search for it
    4 points
  2. The map light is powered by the convenience group wiring harness. If you have under dash lamps, a parking brake lamp, and a glove box light and seat latch release solenoids, you have a convenience group wiring harness. If you don't have these things, you will need to do some work.
    2 points
  3. As everyone knows by now, I'm new to carbs and have had a lot to learn over this past year and a half. With help form many of you, I got mine fairly dialed-in, but really wanted some form of visual confirmation of where I was. I bought the Dual Wideband setup from Glow Shift. Because my interior is 100% stock, right down to the 8 track player, I didn't want to hard-install the gauge, so I put it in a lightweight portable toolbox. After I feel I'm fully dialed in, I will unplug the harnesses from the 02 sensors and store everything in the box. I'm connected to the battery via alligator clips. I may hook it up a couple times a year. Maybe summer and winter. Initial first readings before I adjusted them with the gauge hooked up were Bank 1 (Drivers side) was a tad rich at 12, Bank 2 was lean at 16. Here's a few videos from my first test drive with the dual wideband. Let me know what you think of these readings. You will have to listen to my RPMs go up and down to tell accel/decel. At points I do call out speeds and when I'm going up or down some slight hills. Carb is QF 735CFM -31 Squirter -Primary 71- Secondary 80 -5.5 PV -Pink cam in #1 hole. (Very slightly different from what John (Jpaz) is running with a very similar setup and the same carb). Pre-Drive Warm Idle. The test drive. Post Test drive idle. My son had killed the camera a bit early and I wanted to see post drive idle as compared to pre-drive idle. Would love any feedback. Thanks!!
    1 point
  4. I checked out those on several sources including the Glow Shift website. They ain't cheap!! Not available on Amazon.ca right now either. I'm still on the fence as to whether I'll buy an AFR kit. Piggy bank needs to get a lot fatter! I really like the set up as you don't want it on full time. Nice job on the videos.
    1 point
  5. Any dual plane intake will vary a bit from side to side and cylinder to cylinder. However, 12:1 and 16:1 is a realistic spread. Possibly an exhaust leak on th 16 side. I'd swap sensor positions to see if you get the same reading then. Where are the bungs placed in the exhaust? I know nothing about "Glow Shift", I use AEM. Chuck PS Don't leave the sensors installed without power to them, it will damage them.
    1 point
  6. My 72 Q code rear sway bar frame bushings are fastened with coarse threaded, hex head, sheet metal screws. It surprised me but, it appears to be original. It sounds like the threads rusted away. Try to get a pry bar bushing strap and pry while turning the screw. Chuck
    1 point
  7. Great to hear Geoff! I'll be using mine this coming Friday night for our monthly meet. We shift to evenings in the summer out here.
    1 point
  8. There is a sheet metal adapter (basically a box) that mounts between the dash and the switch. This adapter has a hole in it for the bulb socket. There is also a plated plastic bezel that fits on the shiny side of the dash and threaded barrel nut fastener that holds everything together.
    1 point
  9. Well, last night I finally got the car out to try out the new LED headlights. I had limited time and it was not yet totally dark, but enough for me get a good look at the difference. The light was white and bright, good spread and on high beam waaay better than the older Halogen bulbs. I still have not installed relays and to be honest, I'm not convinced they're needed, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". All in all, a great and simple upgrade at reasonable cost.
    1 point
  10. reading material re spring in the lower hose that I came across from somewhere: Original equipment molded radiator hoses often were equipped with a coil inside them. Some refer to this coil as a spring, but it isn't really a spring. Actually just a piece of thin metal rod that has been twisted, it was designed to facilitate the installation of coolant on the assembly line, and nothing more. When the cooling system of a car is completely drained, or in the case of a brand new car under construction, never had coolant in it, there is a considerable amount of air in the passage ways. Normally, when filling up the cooling system, you start the car to circulate the coolant, displace trapped air, and then top it off. On the assembly line, this wasn't feasible, so air in the cooling system was evacuated by essentially pulling a vacuum on it. This also had the added advantage of speeding up the introduction of the coolant mixture to the cooling system as well. The coil in the lower radiator hose prevented the hose from collapsing under this higher than normal vacuum. Once the car left the factory, the coil served no further purpose. This is why replacement hoses usually do not have a coil in them. Most cooling systems operate at 12-15 P.S.I., which is controlled by the radiator cap. This is enough pressure to allow a normally functioning cooling system to operate efficiently, yet not enough to cause collapsed hoses or leaks in seals if they're in good condition. If the lower radiator hose collapses, it is normally due to a fault somewhere else in the system, and is not necessarily indicative of a bad hose, although an old hose certainly might be susceptible to collapse due to age. Normally, if the hose is in good condition but collapsing and blocking the flow of coolant, the radiator cap is bad or there's a blockage somewhere else causing pressure to build up in the cooling system. As vehicles with original hoses began to age, the coil would sometimes begin to corrode and deteriorate, circulating tiny pieces of metal throughout the cooling system. We'll leave it to your imagination what this did to water pumps and thermostats. This is just one of many interesting stories about automobiles, the people who build them, and how they were built, brought to you by Automotive Mileposts.
    1 point
  11. Waited a month to get my parts from NPD, waited 4 for my AOD parts and last week along with other small orders like oil, paint etc... all came within 2 days. So as my 73 is being still for more than a month on my driveway and we had the first sunny, non-cold-dry weekend of the year. I wanted fix that rear end... For the record, +- 15 years ago, when the 73 was in garage in parts, not having the knowledge and the confidence I have these days when it comes to our car, I decided to let a pro rebuild my 9 inch traction lock with fresh 3:50 teeth.. I never drove it till end of last year when car was finally road worthy and put 4 or 5 hundred miles on it since then. Because it's been revised by a professional company doing only rear ends and trans, having such a massive leak on my brakes must be a sign that something went badly wrong inside... May be some corrosion after so many years still had occur? So to be prepared I had ordered by NPD: bearings, sealing plates. Not knowing how many splines, ordered 2 sets of seals of 2 sizes as there are on our babies 2 kinds. both 2.25 outer one for 28, the other for 31 splines axles where the diameter is a tad wider for the 31 and of course new shoes as they have been soaked for weeks into gear oil, no brake cleaner would have restored that... After using 2 cowboys tricks that worked extremely well and fast which otherwise would have required expensive tools to remove both the axle and the seal deep inside. I've ended up looking at a perfect axle.. The bearing that were supposed to be replaced were new as expected, zero play, marks on the casing showed the perfect sitting. The axle had no marks of damage/wear. The vent tube of the axle was free, oil level within range with the additive and the seal was looking alright so overpressure was out of order. Inspected the seal before removal into the casing and closer after it was removed. Lip/spring was as new. WHY IS IT LEAKING THEN????? Well, it took the hobbyist that I am a good 1/2 hour to inspect and check everything to find out that the professional had installed the wrong seal type. They had installed the 31 splines type which ofc has a bigger inner radius... raaaaaaaaa!!! No wonder it started to leak!! As I had also a set for 31 splines axles, compared them and confirmed. So for the entire weekend, I've been swearing under the surprisingly warm sun, put back the axle with the proper seal, put new shoes on (oh boy do I hate servicing drums brakes!!! Always been a pain for me). And knowing what I knew, I had to do the other side as well because chances were high they would have done the same on the other side... Once it was out: bingo! Same mistake, at least this company was consistant! So serviced that faulty seal too and replaced the practically new shoes that were on with new ones. While underneath, also reinstalled my good old traction bars that I've restored. I wasn't planning to reinstall them, but as I could feel they weren't there anymore in the corners, I've placed them back. While busy on the brakes, I've replaced the proportioning valve and bled the entire system with new fluid. I've finished the weekend at 22:00 after replacing the engine oil. Too late to start the loud v8 without waking up the young kids next door. I'll check the car and take it for a spin somewhere this week. Once more, this experience shows that trusting a professional on this side of the pond isn't perse a good idea, no matter the reputation they have. Our cars are simply too old, too exotic for most shops over here and it's easy for them to make mistakes just as we make them! Oh well, my muscles are crying from this driveway crawling weekend, but it's corrected now! Next weekend: AOD joys! To be continued...
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. You have to change both the dash harness and the engine compartment harness to go from non-gauge to gauge. There are also differences in the dash harness between air and heater only. You need to know what you are looking for when buying used harnesses.
    1 point
  14. Sweet. I'll give them a call after the holiday weekend. Their price sheet says 65-70 mustangs. Hopefully they know how to do the 71-73, too. :D Their page says they expect the interior, glass, and gas tank to be gutted. So I guess that means I can't drive it to them. It'll have to be stripped down and trailered up there.
    1 point
  15. Several members have been searching for the wire harness for convince group. I guess just by chance all eight that I have has the convince group. I did not go looking for that but do look for lots of options on cars I buy. Ford did not install a generic wire harness one size fits all. Each is specific to the car and what options it has. A standard idiot light wire harness will not support a gauge set up you have to change the harness. It is easiest to pull the dash out if changing.
    1 point
  16. The horse is your high beams indicator.
    1 point
  17. Hi nursieee, Your correct the map light assembly is hard to find. You might look and see if your actually wired for one? Before you go on the journey to find one. Ill attach a couple of pics for your viewing. I have made one in the past and it did turn out well 2nd pic. You do see them on ebay from time to time. But they know what there worth and ask at least that much if not more.
    1 point
  18. I caught him on a cicada I bought with me from Ohio.
    1 point
  19. Have been working on this car for the first time since I bought it in the the Fall, 2019. All new brakes finished and ready to go.... Got to love California car’s, you can still see the date of mfr. of the rear brake drums. I’ve also Krown rust proofed it, changed out the rear diff, transmission, and P/S fluids. New anti freeze, ft/rear shocks, ft/rear stab bar end links and bushings, will be doing a complete tune up, converting to Pertronix ignition. Going to change out the valve seals, just to be safe... I have the correct factory Style Marti rad and heater hoses and a bunch of other factory correct smaller pieces to install. Car will be ready for cruising this summer, and I will have the required confidence to drive it anywhere...
    1 point
  20. now with bumper tuck on the rear and some shots in the sun WhatsApp Video 2021-03-03 at 13.38.36.mp4
    1 point
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