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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/2021 in all areas

  1. reading material re spring in the lower hose that I came across from somewhere: Original equipment molded radiator hoses often were equipped with a coil inside them. Some refer to this coil as a spring, but it isn't really a spring. Actually just a piece of thin metal rod that has been twisted, it was designed to facilitate the installation of coolant on the assembly line, and nothing more. When the cooling system of a car is completely drained, or in the case of a brand new car under construction, never had coolant in it, there is a considerable amount of air in the passage ways. Normally, when filling up the cooling system, you start the car to circulate the coolant, displace trapped air, and then top it off. On the assembly line, this wasn't feasible, so air in the cooling system was evacuated by essentially pulling a vacuum on it. This also had the added advantage of speeding up the introduction of the coolant mixture to the cooling system as well. The coil in the lower radiator hose prevented the hose from collapsing under this higher than normal vacuum. Once the car left the factory, the coil served no further purpose. This is why replacement hoses usually do not have a coil in them. Most cooling systems operate at 12-15 P.S.I., which is controlled by the radiator cap. This is enough pressure to allow a normally functioning cooling system to operate efficiently, yet not enough to cause collapsed hoses or leaks in seals if they're in good condition. If the lower radiator hose collapses, it is normally due to a fault somewhere else in the system, and is not necessarily indicative of a bad hose, although an old hose certainly might be susceptible to collapse due to age. Normally, if the hose is in good condition but collapsing and blocking the flow of coolant, the radiator cap is bad or there's a blockage somewhere else causing pressure to build up in the cooling system. As vehicles with original hoses began to age, the coil would sometimes begin to corrode and deteriorate, circulating tiny pieces of metal throughout the cooling system. We'll leave it to your imagination what this did to water pumps and thermostats. This is just one of many interesting stories about automobiles, the people who build them, and how they were built, brought to you by Automotive Mileposts.
    2 points
  2. Times have changed. Just replaced the blades on my truck. Only took 45 minutes while I tried to figure how they mount. Fits your truck they said. Yes, back in the day just the rubber. mike
    2 points
  3. Cool.. All good. I cleaned my nozzels by unscrewing them from the plastic mount and cleaned them with a pin etc. Then reinstalled and adjusted.
    1 point
  4. Could just be the angle and the different colors of patina playing tricks. But to me, the insert looks kinda trashed. Is the front outer corner of it sitting down fully? It kinda looks bent there or somehow obstructed so its not sitting down into the hood far enough. For reference, here's mine. Original scoop insert with extra layers of primer and paint on top of a couple different paint jobs over the years. Its sitting in an aftermarket hood. I couldn't get a great photo because its dark outside.
    1 point
  5. I was surprised as well. There were no other holes and the screws looked to be original. I re-used them with no problems. Chuck
    1 point
  6. I’ll be there as well . Will have my green with white top 1973 Grande in the stock 71-73 class. Last year was its first trip to Carlisle after restoration.
    1 point
  7. CJ has a "Ford" washer bottle that seems to be good. I had to debur it a tiny bit inside where the pump impeller goes. The new washer motors look exactly like the old ones, and since the seal is a part of the motor maybe try a new washer motor with a tiny bit of silicone grease (dielectric) on the seal?
    1 point
  8. Have made the same experience few months ago. New reservoir from Mr Scott Drake does not fit the old pump neither a new one, ordered the same day from the same vendor. Additionally the top cover of the new reservoir isn't removable without damage, while the OEM one is. I now fixed the old pump and I'm happy, that the old reservoir is still intact. Cheers Frank
    1 point
  9. I would have to say the insert is warped. Here is a pic of mine.
    1 point
  10. This is my first time selling parts at this Ford show in 6-8 years. I'm offering a 71-73mustangs.com "Member Oasis" where I vend. Come by, say hi and get... Free Deer Park water , temporary storage & security for parts. Free Budweiser... (with every $1.00+ purchase;-) Plenty useless Mustang advice unless you already know better and correct me..! I'm bringing a red NOS 71-73 Left/Driver fastback quarter and more nice 71-3 stuff that needs to go... Thanx, Pat @ K57-K59 All Ford Carlisle
    1 point
  11. Thanks Geoff. No, definitely not cheap. This kit is a bit more expensive than most. But you do get the dual readout gauge, two modules, two harnesses, and two Bosch 02 sensors. It also came with 2 sets of bungs including a set in stainless. It's a good kit. The toolbox was only $12, so that was the only affordable piece. LOL
    1 point
  12. Pretty much have the carb to E.F.I. swap done. It became more of a project than anticipated. Started with the Sniper 550 and an in-tank fuel pump but I discovered the GM style cap and coil on the aftermarket distributor was causing RF interference with the Holley computer. This resulted in massive fluctuations in the rpm signal. Fortunately, I was able to purchase a good used Holley dual spark distributor and a new coil. That took care of the problem. Haven't road tested it yet because the steering wheel is off as I wait for a new turn signal switch. One thing I discovered was the Holley unit would reboot when switching from crank back to run. Seems our ignition switches have a dead spot in them. Installed a delayed-off relay to take care of that.
    1 point
  13. Just went through the whole thread Awesome work with excellent attention to the panel lines and gaps-Nothing like a really nice clean baking booth to spray in ! Paint work looks FANTASTIC !! Congrats !!
    1 point
  14. Well, last night I finally got the car out to try out the new LED headlights. I had limited time and it was not yet totally dark, but enough for me get a good look at the difference. The light was white and bright, good spread and on high beam waaay better than the older Halogen bulbs. I still have not installed relays and to be honest, I'm not convinced they're needed, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". All in all, a great and simple upgrade at reasonable cost.
    1 point
  15. I will be leaving tomorrow,. It's about 1400 miles each way. Not bringing anything to sell (don't have anything) but my wife and Dr insist that I need a vacation/time away from the shop. I kept my vendor spot so I have onsite parking and get in on Thursday.
    1 point
  16. If you strike out on those suppliers go to Facebook Marketplace look for Scotty Strickland he has a Mustang junk yard in North Carolina, USA. He usually runs ad there. Watch this link and he does not sell whole cars only parts. There is more money in parts than cars. https://animoto.com/play/NiLkeemRwo59srsNGD9PiA I took the pics was there to get a wire harness for my 73 vert that took a year to find.
    1 point
  17. For the life of me I can't figure out why no after market company has come up with an actual bolt in one piece export brace for the 71-73 cars.So here is part one of me doing it.I cut the ends off the factory braces and made new ends out of 1/8''. Now they bolt under the shock bracket and spacer,just like the 64-70 one piece braces.I'm going to wait to build the connector at the firewall because I have not yet settled on 1 or 2 carbs,air box or Ram Air,and there will most likely be clearance issues.so I will make it one piece after the carb situation is sorted.I chose to reinforce the stock shock mounts on the top with an 1/8 washer.If the car starts to beat out the bushings I will switch to the 67-70 shock mounts.I also have the rearend bump stops welded in.I used new bumpers for the front of the car,since bolting them in is easier.
    1 point
  18. Hello from a fellow Aust owner. You'll need to post what body style it's for - Mach 1 Sportsroof I recall ? Watch for a reply from Mike Beradi ( Motorcity Mustangs ) as he has a collection of parts cars. Also Don & O M S. Keep digging.
    1 point
  19. Usually the filter is changed with the oil. If you want to be super-anal you can add some new oil to the new filter before you spin it on, but on most Ford V-8's the filter is at an angle, so if you overfill the filter you end up making a mess with new oil... So if you didn't change the filter it would have been full of old oil still. If you added three quarts of new oil I would still expect you to be low by at least 1/2 a quart. I do basically the same thing as Steve when I change my oil, except that if I don't get the engine up to operating temp I may let the car sit overnight to ensure the oil thoroughly drains. I have a lift so the car is (relatively) level which could be giving you issues with getting all of your old oil out. If you need the ramps maybe find some way to (safely) raise the rear of the car so that its level?
    1 point
  20. That's good to know all is okay. With all this Covid crap going on, one starts to wonder when there has been no news for some time. Work sucks, but glad you're still around, alive and kicking.
    1 point
  21. I'm here everyday! Just been really swamped with work and stuff! But I help keep a watchful eye on the forums along with the rest of the staff! When real life slows down a bit, I'll be back with some fun forum stuff! I promise!!
    1 point
  22. From the numbers, I would say it is an original. I recently replaced a known aftermarket rear bumper with a known NOS one. It has similar date codes. Also the biggy is if you look at the end of the bumper, the amount of material drawn at the top edge, is considerably greater. For me, this was the main reason I switched to an NOS one. Here's a pic of the the end part I'm trying to describe. 1626 = aftermarket, 1640 = NOS. The fit is much better. Hope this helps.
    1 point
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