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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/11/2021 in all areas

  1. Last week, I ordered the CD with the 6 ford assembly manuals. UPS man delivered it today. On the CD, there are 6 pdf files with the manuals and helpful pictures and information. Unfortunately, the folks who made them put a huge stinking watermark of their company name over every single page. On some pages, the watermark obscures the information I actually wanted to see. The pages could already be a bit tough to read to begin with. The huge diagonal banner wasn't helping. I whipped up a bash 1-liner that takes each PDF file, decompresses it, and changes the opacity of the watermark. It makes the thing much easier to read and see the pictures now. I figured it would be helpful to anybody else who'd gotten these. Obviously, you have to copy them off your CD before you can edit them. Bash command I made for my computer running linux with pdftk, all free and open source software. Changes it from 50% transparent to 99% transparent. find . -maxdepth 1 -name \*.pdf -exec sh -c "mkdir tmp ; pdftk '{}' output tmp/uncompressed.pdf uncompress && sed -e 's/^0.5 g$/0.99 g/g' tmp/uncompressed.pdf > 'unwatermarked/{}' && rm -rf tmp" \; Before and after.
    2 points
  2. Going to sound odd to all you east coast guys, but I just put my car up for the summer the other day. The boat has taken back over the garage. I'll get the car back out in October when we are done boating, and then the boat will go into storage. Supposed to be 114* here next week. Anyway, got a decent side shot of her when putting her away. I have always wanted the rear end to sit a tad higher, and I don't dare think I drop the front. What do you guys think?
    2 points
  3. Well, I had not driven the car for over a week, but I had been having some issue with low idle stalling. I suspected some crap in the carb, ran some Sea Foam through it and it seemed much better. Fast forward to today, finally time and opportunity to take the old gal out for a test drive. Well, the stalling was still there, but not as bad. This issue has been going away after it reached full operating temp, so I thought I'll just carry on around the "block". What happens next, the damn throttle cable broke leaving me stranded on the side of the road. Fortunately only a mile from home, but I did not take my cell phone so I had to go to a nearby house and have the Lady phone the wife. That went over real well! When she arrived, I asked her to stay with the car while I went home to get a spare cable and tools. Changing the cable in the engine bay is simple enough, the hard part is reconnecting the pedal. You need to be a damn contortionist to get under the dash. Anyway, after about an hour, I had managed to get the cable in, but I could not get the clip through the pedal pin. I thought if I keep pressure on the pedal, I should be able to limp it home where I can pull the seat and get better access to the pedal. So job done finally. The last time I had to change a throttle cable was the day I bought the car in LA California, so it lasted 12 years. Moral of the story, keep a spare throttle cable on hand and keep some tools in the car. Next time I go to NPD, I'll pick up another. Oh, one more thing, the driver door hinge spring thingy broke as well, just something else to fix!
    1 point
  4. I have a 71 Mach 1 and I have quite a few pics of the 71 grill set-up. There may be some other parts you'll need depending on what you have left over in the vert that you can use. If it were me, knowing the old harness was burned and something that is not designed for the 71 car, the 73 harness, I'd go to Midlife, a site supporter as I'm sure you know, and have him make you the correct harness for under the hood. The grill sport lamps have only a two wire bulb socket, one power the other ground. While at it, I'd for sure add LED lights throughout. There has been much written on that subject over the last few days, Read "Headlight Relays" for example. Buy your LED's from Hi-Po Parts Garage. Bill will help you with all you need to do the job right, the first time. There is a link posted in Headlight Relays thread, or google it. Let me know what pics you need.
    1 point
  5. You will need headlight doors, they cover the chrome rings that hold in the headlight. They are a dark grey and made of the same pot metal as the body parts. (zinc whatever pot metal). Mine are painted black to match the grille. I did have a bent one and had to find a different used one. They are held in with a small tang on the bottom and a single phillips screw on top. The middle of the grille is screwed to the hood latch upright bracket via 2 phillips screws as well. Good luck!!
    1 point
  6. What kind of grille was in the car originally? The wiring harness is different between the standard grille and the Mach 1 grille - the standard harness doesn't have sockets for the turn signals.
    1 point
  7. Ok...the raffle is now open!! Get your entries from the regular forum donation page...the $5 and $20 options are at the top of the list! https://7173mustangs.com/forums/donate/make-donation/ Thanks everyone!!
    1 point
  8. I purchased mine last week and today I had mine delivered. 72 Mach 1 H code, auto.
    1 point
  9. The engine compartment is painted with Krylon satin black. The rattle can restoration of the suspension is also going back together. I used VHT gloss black chassis paint on the suspension. Most of the parts have been cleaned, painted and ready to go back in. I need to route the new wiring harness and put stuff back together.
    1 point
  10. I've been biting my tongue for a couple of days now... To answer your question as to the easiest way to raise the rear end: use a hydraulic jack under the pumpkin; guaranteed to raise the rear of the car.
    0 points
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