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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/27/2021 in all areas

  1. I installed this clip just as directed by Tim- pushing into the hole and with pliers and squeezing the tabs together. Two photos below. From underneath the car and from the footwell:
    2 points
  2. My intention this weekend was to dig my back window out of my closet and get it ready for install. Instead I did the throttle cable and charcoal canister .
    2 points
  3. Motor came apart today. He found one bad rod bearing, said the crank measured out fine and will just get polished up. Out of an abundance of caution, he's disassembling the engine, performing a complete inspection and will clean out all the oil passages. He's a bit baffled by the bearing failure, but agrees it must have happened on the dyno. Told him that I had to adjust #3 intake, even though he had run through the valves several times, so a thorough inspection of the cam in lifters is also in order. If there is even the least bit of suspicion about them, they'll be replaced.
    2 points
  4. Hi.it's been a little while. A couple things.I did figure out how to keep the coil springs in the front of the car.I am currently working on those parts and of course will post pics when I am done. I took a little break from the car because the spring thing was driving me nuts. I'm one of those people that will work till the point of mental exhaustion to figure out a solution to a problem.But in the two weeks that I really didn't touch the car. I bought a 73 AMX,360, 4speed, Go Pack car,that's eventually going to become the street car my Mach1 was going to be.And while messing with the AMX I got over the mental block I had with the Mustang.So when I get the coil spring maker not falling outters installed I will be moving on to the wheel flares.So here is the AMX.I don't think anybody on here will mind one little ole pic of an AMC....................oh ya...........NO Trans Am mods to the AMX ,I promise.
    2 points
  5. Has anyone changed the box without removing the header? I really don't want to get into removing parts that are not required to be removed. Car is a 71 Mach 1 with 351C with a TKO 600 hydraulic clutch setup, so no zbar to deal with.
    1 point
  6. For the front, how much should I be able to "wobble" the tires. I mean grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and pushing/pulling alternatively. I can wobble them a "little" but I wonder if there is a spec. It is not the suspension since it is all brand new and I can see that the wobble is coming from the hub. I checked the bearings and they look brand new with no metal chips, pitting or noise when driving. I retightened them following the instructions in the manual and still have the same little wobble. I read that there is some amount that is expected but I am interesting in understanding how much is good/bad. Any ideas? Can you wobble yours?
    1 point
  7. Past weekend was dry, warm... Sooooo: barbecue time!! All the new parts that I've received over past months were either not coated, simply oiled or covered with some poor paint. None had of course the kind of finish I had in mind for them. So spend a good part of my saturday cleaning & degreasing them and mask/tape all the parts I could not remove, rubbers, threads etc.. Then just like the restored parts, they did receive a primer, their respective colors and a nice thick finish coat. Sunday was like xmas, lots to unwrap and it was even time to put some stuffs together, install nipples etc... Reassembled the spindles done last weeks with ther hardware plated last year. Installed all back together after a good cleaning and copper greasing of each thread. Was lots of work to get there, zinc plating them was not the easiest thing to do. But now, boy do they not look like a million??! :D Yes these are the same!! :D I know btw I need some wires for their nuts, Anyone have some info on how it should be done the right way? Never done that before, but really would love to have them "twisted" the right secure way. I will buy some SS wire for that asap. Then it was time to put the top arms together... 50 years old and looking goooood :D Then it was time to put all these babies together back into their original nest that is now making a nice contrast with its semi gloss black. Nothing torqued to specs yet until all is on.. Also gave love to the koni's that were plated last year and gave them the car body color (no red), that will look nice into the light grey coils that were done last week... All with all, it was nice to finally see all the work started last novembre come together! The other side fx is that I could get rid of many boxes and create some welcome space. One regret is that the long part that connects both sides (rod assembly, the drag link I think is the name) is still at a friend's place where it needs to go under press to correct the bow into it created at some point when someone jacked up the car with it... No biggy tho, as once I will have the steering box revised, i will need to paint it as well, so will do both at the same time. to be continued...
    1 point
  8. Thanks......I have always loved Javelins. And well, I guess I have a type of car design that I'm really attracted to. The 71-3 Mustangs and the 2nd gen Javelins share many of the same proportions. Long hood,short deck, low roof, full width grill, long overbite front end. Not to mention the 4300 carburetor. And I love Trans Am cars.
    1 point
  9. Well, it's been close to 3 months since I've posted an update, but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything. I've gotten the instrument cluster back together with LED bulbs installed. I got the steering column painted and reassembled, but the turn signal switch is binding, so I'll have to go back through it, one more time. I got the front and rear seats reupholstered with new foam and seat covers from TMI. Most of the wrinkles seen in the picture were worked out, and overall, the seats look pretty good. I also cut open the top of the new fuel tank and installed the new Tanks, Inc. electric fuel pump. I pretty much did what Autoedit did in the YouTube video, except I used a body saw instead of a hole saw, and oriented the fuel reservoir away from the sending unit to keep it from interfering, but otherwise did pretty much the same. A little work with the hammer and dolly got the lip flattened out and lining up with the sealing ring pretty well. Once the steel retaining ring is placed on the inside edge of the hole and the screws tightened down, it straightens the edge up even better. The retaining ring is installed and the screws inserted to secure it. The Viton washers were removed so that they would not get damaged when the retaining ring was tacked into the opening. After tack welding between each of the screw hole locations, the welds were ground down to make the top flush. Then the tank was cleaned with WD-40 and a magnet, plus wiping it out with some paper towels, and then more WD-40. It was a new tank, but I had gotten from a guy on Facebook marketplace, and there was a little but of crud inside it. It wasn't rust, but I'm not sure what it was. It took a little bit, but I was able to get the tank cleaned out really well. Then, it was time for the gasket sealer, top, and all those screws. Overall, the tank came out really well, and I'm pleased with it. Also, I've kept busy, building a motor for the Rickster. With all the Covid stuff going on, it took a while to get the cylinder heads shipped, but I finally got everything I needed. I had to hit up Don at Ohio Mustang Supply a few times for brackets, etc. since some were missing. I got the Power steering pump and brackets from him. It's a 50 year old pump of unknown history, so I went ahead and rebuilt it. Twice. When they say try not to let the spider come apart, there is a reason for that. My first attempt at reassembly, I got it wrong, and after reinstalling the pump discovered it wouldn't turn very easily. I pulled it all apart, went back through it, and found I had the slippers upside down. DOH!!! After the second or third time putting the spider together, I did develop a feel for it, and it's not difficult, but the first time or two, it can be pretty frustrating. Once reassembled, I double checked and it turned easily, and after installation on the motor, it only required 4 in-lbs of force to turn the pulley, well, within the factory spec of 2-15 in-lbs. Tomorrow, I'll post about the engine build but that's enough for now. Except to say, that the paint shop says the Rickster is very close to done, and should be back in my garage in the next week or so. WooHoo!!! Then the real fun begins - reassembly.
    1 point
  10. David, your last comment "Try tightening your header bolts again." made me smile. Some years ago, my Alfa GTV6 developed this quite loud top end metallic knock but only just when you put your foot down and at idle. With the old stick to the ear, sounded like #1 cylinder was the culprit and definitely somewhere in the top end. I took off the tappet cover, clearances all OK. Compression check also OK. Engine had done about 40K since a full rebuild. I didn’t want to pull the heads off (head gaskets not cheap) without first checking from below, so took a day to pull the engine out and onto the engine stand. Turned it upside down and pulled off the lower sump pan. Inside the motor looked as new, not a mark on the bore, big end bearing, etc. gudgeon pin was nice and tight, so I’m thinking it must be in the top end. Turned the engine back upright to start pulling it apart and only then noticed the 2 nuts from the #1 extractor/header flange had come off the studs. I gave the pipe a bump with my hand and there’s that metallic knock. The knock was the front flange banging on the head. Looking down at the motor in the engine bay you can’t actually see the nuts on the exhaust studs, also it didn’t sound like a typical blown exhaust gasket. So, three days to replace 2 manifold nuts and a few more "names" for the car.
    1 point
  11. Test fitting everything today. A couple of things I've noticed. 1: the gas tank straps are going to have to to in before the watts bar as it looks like the bar sits right beneath them. 2: not going to be able to use the factory brake line support bracket as the 3rd link bar needs to go where it is. Going to have to do some creative brake line rerouting. Next step is to take out the pinion snubber plate that's welded in the transmission tunnel with a spot weld drill, then I can actually bolt the watts bar and 3rd link bar to the frame.
    1 point
  12. This just so happened to arrive in the mailbox today….Looks like my car has a twin somewhere out there! I hope it’s still out there galloping!
    1 point
  13. Item purchased thread closed thanks to Mike at Motorcity Mustang
    1 point
  14. When I stated sanding on the 1972 Q code vert I bought as a failed restoration I found the drivers door NOT SO GOOD. He had done some patching on the rusty bottom and there was way too much body filler for my taste. So taking that door off is what finished my neck off. I have been looking everywhere, facebook marketplace and Craigslist for a better door. Most were just as bad as what I have. Then last week I found a pair of doors with power windows and he had the rear PW also. So I went and picked them up on Friday. Was sitting parked on I-40, due to a crash miles ahead, and it was 95 deg. My truck AC does not work so I was cooking. It got to 98 before I headed back home. The doors are pretty solid, tearing them down now, and I will only need the drivers door as far as I know. The Power Windows will go to Ebay. I needed the rear switch bases but only one was present in this set. It was also a door speaker car so the wire harness for the front doors includes the door speakers which if very difficult to find. The front bezels are there but for sure not pristine would need a re plate to be show quality. He did not have the under hood and under dash part of the wire harness so no solenoid. The guy selling the parts was clearing out his dad's hoard of parts and cars. He had over 200 cars and all but a few are gone. Even had 1932 and 1934 fords. He said they were the only two cars that actually brought more money than his dad paid for them. He backed up the fact that all the old guys are dying off and getting lower and lower prices for the older cars. He said the 55, 56 and 57 cheys he had brought way less than his dad paid for them years ago. The last two mustangs he has is a 1966 vert that was a T code 6 cylinder with bench seat. I looked at it but not worth even $500, no title and not door tag but the VIN# is still in the inner fender so you could get title. No engine and had automatic shifter but had clutch pedal. He is due to send me pics of the 1966 fastback he has that I have interest in for a flipper. I have several people searching for them of course. He had two more Fords I was interested in but he would not let me see them. A 1949 Ford Woodie Wagon and a 1951 Mercury Woodie Wagon. The Mercury would be a real find. I do not think I have ever seen one in person. He said his wife wants that one. When I get the Power Window stuff boxed up for Ebay will send link to ad. Oh BTW one guy on Marketplace wanted $800 for a bare door nothing but the door and not that great. I drove back through Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, Tenn.. WOW were the tourists out by the thousands. Saw one lone elk in a field just before getting to Cherokee.
    1 point
  15. LOL Thanks for the laugh. If I send you a dollar will you throw it away?
    1 point
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