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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/07/2021 in all areas

  1. I got my instrument cluster back together. Installed a new headlight switch and reinstalled the seats. I always wished I had the factory leather wheel option, but since I don't, I did the next best thing and wrapped my steering wheel in leather. Still working on the center console.
    3 points
  2. A great project for you both. Not sure if this will help. Mine was a total resto with most parts sand blasted. Instead of using normal primer and paint on the bare steel pieces, nuts, bolts, etc I cleaned up any bare metal and used a cold galvanizing paint. This stuff bonds to clean steel, no primer or sealer. You need to get rid of all rust but not with rust remover or converter as this interferes with the galvanizing bonding. Rusty bits I dipped or brushed with 50/50 pool acid/water after wire brushing loose rust & dirt. Dry and wipe down with acetone or wax and grease remover, then spray the cold gal. Finish is satin black and doesn't chip. I did all the rear parts, diff, spring mounts, u bolts, drums, etc. It's great on coil springs as well it will coat them but not crack when stretched. The brake drum in the following photos has done about 2,500 miles and no sign of burn discolouring. Its easy to spray in tight spots, no mixing paint and great to small bits at a time. In expensive and touches up very well for those bits you might miss. Also available in silver.
    2 points
  3. The boy and I tore into the rear suspension today! Here’s the look we are going for with my +2 springs from Eaton! 😂😂 Well, maybe not quite that wild….See my build thread for the details. 😀
    2 points
  4. Sandblasted and painted the u-bolt/shock brackets today…gonna sandblast the drum covers tomorrow.
    1 point
  5. Yes, that's the acid, hydrochloric by another name. Wear gloves and wash off all parts with water and dry quickly to prevent surface rust forming. The "wax & grease" remover I referred to is a pre-paint cleaner to remove oil, wax & other contaminants. No need to sand blast everything. I wire wheeled/brushed lots of parts prior to the black gal treatment. I did all the brake lines as well. I would take the extra time to pull the rest of the diff out seeing you are that far in. You need to fix that oil leak, a lot easier with it all out. Removing the tail shaft is no big deal, mark everything before removal and only a brake bleed after re-installation. Here are a few other parts treated the same way a while ago, left over from my project. David
    1 point
  6. Yesterday was pancake day. I rebuilt my recently acquired motor and after much struggle and cursing got it installed late last night. Now I have 4 working windows, just need to find a couple of wiring or switch gremlins and lube the RR guides. Also got my speaker grills in yesterday, starting cutting the panels. I'll paint and install today.
    1 point
  7. Well, the boy and I attacked the mustang with gusto today! Got a bunch of parts in the mail we have be waiting for, and wasted no time getting started. First things first, we tore out all the old stuff. I was pleasantly surprised to find that nothing really gave us much of a fight. I had been soaking everything in AreoKroil for the last week or so, and it seems to have done it’s job well…no torching, no cut wheels…just a cheater bar here and there and we had it all off. Here’s the old and new side by side…those leaf springs were pretty tired! My son was a huge help, I did the physically difficult tasks of breaking things loose then he took over and got all the nuts off. the u-bolt shackles came right off! These babies are coming with me to work tomorrow to get sandblasted and painted! After we got the old parts torn out, we turned our attention to cleaning everything up a bit. I don’t know when I’ll have the rear end tore down like this again, so I plan on thoroughly scraping, degreasing, and painting everything as best we can without actually unhooking the driveshaft. I was pretty pleased over all with the condition of everything under there, the car looks pretty solid. I think the leaf springs are original, as there is some blue overspray on them that you can see if you look close… here’s a few random shots of the undercarriage at various point of disassembly… I have to work the next 4 days, but we plan on doing some clean up and painting the rest of the week. Then reassembly with the new parts next week, really looking forward to getting back on the road and testing out all these new components. I do have a couple of questions on some things that I will post about separately…but overall, today was a great day
    1 point
  8. And the parking brake light was an option, so often times that plug won't be used.
    1 point
  9. Light green wire with red dots is for the parking brake warning light, should connect to the switch on the parking brake.
    1 point
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