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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/13/2021 in all areas

  1. I would avoid most everything from Scott Drake that is safety related.
    2 points
  2. A very good looking car. Welcome from Oklahoma. If you are considering new springs look at Eaton Detroit Springs. They are the only ones that have the correct ride height. Search this site for the stories about rear springs. Chuck
    2 points
  3. Nice looking car. I do like Studebakers, they've always had their own unique styling. I had an aunt and uncle who wouldn't own anything else, really pissed them off when Studebaker went out of production. The last car they owned was one of the last American built 1964 Larks. Before you start looking for an in dash tachometer you should take a look at Rocketman's (Bob) conversion. He'll take your idiot light pod and convert it into a 3-wire tachometer that looks factory, part number M7123S. Bob is a forum member and advertiser/site supporter Rocketman's Classic Mustang Innovations (rccinnovations.com) Welcome from Oregon.
    2 points
  4. Talked to Paul at Modern Driveline, super helpful and great guy to talk to. Expecting a new quote, he told me what was available and what was not and my best route. Lesson learned, go to the source Boilermaster
    2 points
  5. The ceramic coating 24 hrs. later. A few pics.
    2 points
  6. The Paint Whisperer has completed his mission. A mission he chose to accept. Code name: Save Paint. Here are some pics prior to a ceramic coating.
    2 points
  7. Just to introduce myself, I have owned 16 mustangs so far all 69-70 with the exception of an 83 5.0 GT. I am not new to Mustangs but I am new to the 71-73's. Mine was built as a fleet rental car. Originally green 302 car with a tan interior. I bought it like it sits. I will be adding a tach to the dash, new rear springs, ram air assembly, rear Mach 1 trim, tilt column, disc brakes and possibly 15 inch wheels. I have a 351C 4V as a spare that I may replace the stock 302 but I want to drive and enjoy for a bit first. This body style has grown on me and although the outer skin looks different, it seems to be quite similar to the 69-70's underneath. I also have a 41 Studebaker Champion 5 window with a Ford 302 and a 1960 F100 with a 351W. Ford all the way. I live in southwest KY.
    1 point
  8. https://streetortrack.com/brakes/disc-brake-conversion-kits/street-or-track/street-or-track-11-25-front-disk-brake-kit
    1 point
  9. See if Don at Ohio Mustang or Mike at Motor City Mustang have disk brake spindles. Then buy the calipers, hubs, and rotors. Get a new booster from CJ. Master Power BM15224-1 Mustang Brake Booster Conversion Kit 1971-1973 (cjponyparts.com) If you're planning on larger wheels you could get the conversion kit from Mustang Steve and use newer Mustang calipers Front Disc Brake Conversion Brackets Archives - Mustang Steve
    1 point
  10. Quick small update... Been busy on non mustang things these past weeks, but not entirely.. For 2 weekends in a row, I kept postponning the further install of my brakes. Simply because after seeing similar parts installed this past december on my 73 that are already starting to rust (that I now regret to have trusted their finish, expecting at least to last a couple of years) So been busy protecting 99% of the new parts I've received... From pressure plate to brake flexible fittings. Wanted install the idler arm to find out I forgot to handle the hardware that goes thru the frame that was still on the old one. So did that. The new strut rods rings/rubber were already starting to rust inside the box! So addressed that. Wanted to lower the car with wheels on, but the rusty old cragars were looking so bad, even if I will replace them when the car is finished, I couldn't bare to see these wheels on my restore suspension, so fixed that... A while back, I found out the drag link was crooked. Left it at a friend's place having a press and plan was to correct it while we do the AOD swap on my 73, but last week he surprised me by bringing me the corrected link. It was straight again, but also full of ancient hamering marks, rust etc... so fixed that too A bit carried away on the prep, after a a good zinc bath, the baby was looking real good. So good that the strut rods done last week got jealous!! :O So redid them using the same treatment, which is to polish the metal, re-zinc, paint and finish all with a layer of gloss coat. There are some flaws here and there, ancient marks still present etc.. but despite these, I'm pretty pleased with the way this original once rusted to death hardware is now looking!! Hopefully now that most parts are durably protected, I should now be able to install more parts back next weekend! To be continued...
    1 point
  11. I would call them and get their tech guy on the phone to discuss what you need. I have found them very helpful over the phone.
    1 point
  12. More stuff added. Steering and some suspension. Wiring. Brake lines. Still need to get a spring compressor to install springs and shocks. But it’s getting there.
    1 point
  13. Today work started on the RH cowl. Starting by removing the thing on top that probably has a name but I have no clue what it is: It looked kinda OK underneath: I decided to try a new type of spotweld drill today. It makes bigger holes but less mess: It worked very well: The part under the windshield has some kind of sealant underneath that's rather sticky. I used these to loosen things up. Especially the pointy one was very helpful as it's easy to get in: And then, surprise, surprise, a load of rust: You can't see it very well in the picture but there are a few holes, especially undrneath the window it's bad. As I'm replacing the original heater with a modern one that doesn't use outside air, I'm going to put in a patch without the hole. To be continued...
    1 point
  14. I got the same Summit Racing kit Kevin (and others) did - the kit is complete with mounting hardware (the hinges and latches pretty much stick onto the glass). They don't go all the way to the bottom of the window, but then again, who cares - that part doesn't need the shade that bad, anyway. They also don't hamper rear vis at all - just horizontal lines you barely even notice once they're there. The worst thing they do is rip a thread or two out of the duster when I use it if I'm not careful. I added a couple pieces of windlace to the last slat 'just in case' the trunk lid got too close... and it never does. This isn't even the best picture to illustrate how virtually invisible they become from the driver seat, but you can see inside from the rear quite nicely. I like it because it adds to the 'Day Two - Old School' restomod look. Big fat raised white letter tires on Cragars, louvers, louder than stock mufflers with headers, Lakewood 'slapper' traction bars, and what more do ya need (well... power windows & locks, AM/FM/BT/USB Retrosound stereo, modern HVAC, an AOD, and LEDs... but nobody can really tell with those, since they're not cosmetic). I can slap the pizza cutters back on and it'll look pretty near factory fresh. But why would I want to?
    1 point
  15. Thanks! Yes the nibs were removed. Turns out it wasn't just dirt and hair like fibers. It was also metallic particles. The PW in his experience figures the spray gun was tilted at a less than optimal angle at times. Which caused the metallic to flow toward the nozzle at an increased rate causing the nozzle to "clog" and spray out tiny chunks of metallic occaisionally. There is a spot or two on the car that the clear is distorted from the nibs. We'll know where they are, but not many will spot them. If I understood the PW's process; the paint everywhere but the roof measured out at about 1.5 mils. He only blocks about 1/10th of a mil off in his process. If my math is right that's about 0.005 of an inch. Amazing. The side mirrors and hood scoops are not workable. Paint/clear way too thin. The urethane bumper....his recommendation is a complete redo. Unlikely it was done correctly. The final primer seal coat wasn't done correctly as well. In his experience that he has seen before that one possibility is the mixture wasn't correct (happened to great painters when the poly stuff was new). What it causes is what he calls chunking. Which ultimately leads to a distortion in lighting at particular angles. Almost like a ripple effect. But only at certain angles and especially with fluorescent lights. Mind you I can read the individual letters/numbers on the end of the 8 foot bulbs on the ceiling in the reflection. I have pondered what he could do with a paint job done by a competent painter. He has prepped cars for Pebble Beach and Hershey. As I type this in the house I feel so small having him work on my wife's Mach 1. But when we're in the shop together I don't feel that way. He's very humble and down to earth. Just a car guy helping another car guy out with his project.
    1 point
  16. It was decal day and nearing the end of the....what do I call it? Paint resurrection? Paint correction? Because it does not look like the same car that has been sitting in my shop since April. I'll try upload some pics.
    1 point
  17. Copy - I missed what you were testing... I thought you were testing to see if the Phosphoric acid weakened the welds, I missed the fact you were testing how effective it was at rust removal inside the lap joint. Now I get it - facepalming now.
    0 points
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