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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/14/2021 in all areas

  1. Proof is in the pudding…. I bought the car in July, 2015; it was delivered in early September. I drove it only once in later September, about 10 miles - it was in rough shape. After that drive I started the complete tear down and restoration of the car. Finished it (the main portion, anyway) in the Fall, 2017. From that time forward the car basically sat (I did try to drive it from time to time, but I knew the carb was hurting the engine if I ran it too long) due to the Q-Jet issues I previously noted here on occasion. It was very frustrating, to say the least. As I noted here recently, I was able to get the carburetor sorted with the help of a GM expert on these carbs. A couple days ago I felt confident enough to take her on the highway for the first time… It ran really well. Although not shown here, I did step on it on the return trip home on this highway. The 4 barrels kicked in nicely. Helped to clean out all the carbon deposits from previous ill running episodes, the main reason I decided to take her on the highway… The car showed 95,894 miles on it when I bought it in 2015. If you look closely in the video, you will see the current miles on it 6 years later… Sure, I drive ‘em like I stole ‘em, lol. Not the best video, but nonetheless, an achievement for myself and this car, long overdue. Cheers
    3 points
  2. In ‘71, the rear seat belts (all four pieces)on my Vert came up from the rear of the seat, therefore, no cut indentation’s in the actual rear side interior panels as seen on later years. Additionally, the 71 Vert’s did not come with the rear passenger side ashtray unless you upgraded to an interior optioned package… So finding exact replacement interior rear panels for my car was a challenge… Initially, after searching for nearly three years, I was unable to locate factory original replacements that were in near NOS condition, so I restored the originals in my car c/w the speaker covers. Then one day on ehay, I came across a set that had been pulled out of a car 30 years ago and stored… Buy it now price: $200 including shipping… I live in Canada and the seller honoured the shipping inclusion (which in my estimation would have cost at least $100, if not more due to the package size). Great score IMO. The only down side was that they are vermillion and I will have to unfortunately redo them in white. I have now pulled the originals and will now start the process of changing over to these exceptionally nice and rare… 71 only interior rear panels. Other then still having to change out the “BELTS” light on the dash (another rare and near NOS piece I was able to acquire a couple years ago), this changeover will complete the interior restoration of the car. It’s a bit of work as you have to install a new windlace piece in matching colour and the top window chrome/felt piece. These were stapled into place at the factory and I ensure the staples are reused on the new panels. PIA, but must be done. I’ll update this if anyone is interested when I am finished the switchover.
    1 point
  3. It's sh!t like that that keeps me in business. At least it didn't have wire nuts.
    1 point
  4. A couple people here did mention exhaust holes and the like (thanks!) and I crawled around under the car, poked around etc. and didn't find anything of course not ever noticing the actual bolt not there. I had just tightened up the header bolts about a month before this so didn't even occur to me that they might have loosened so fast. It just never sounded like the exhaust to me until the very end as it seemed to be getting louder and louder as time went on. This was all in the driveway as I wasn't going to be driving this thing like that. On the plus side I did do a bunch of maintenance and little stuff along the way so it wasn't all wasted time by any stretch. And, yeah, we've all made dumb mistakes like this. But we don't generally have a thread dedicated to them.
    1 point
  5. You are not an idiot, trust me I know some who are. Exhaust leaks can be real foolers, guess how I know. I'm glad it is an easy and cheap fix. Chuck
    1 point
  6. I can't help but laugh. I love your line "My name is The Dude and I'm an idiot". Best laugh I have had in a while. We have all been there at one time or another so don't beat yourself up over it. At least it was nothing serious and an easy fix. Glad to see you are up and running again. It was a good learning lesson for us all.
    1 point
  7. I am interested - I am faced with the same situation. My original '71 white interior quarters are heavily UV damaged. I am hoping (dreaming) of finding NOS, but will probably have to send them off to Just Dashes for refinishing.
    1 point
  8. Thanks, for the feedback. OK, I was sort of hoping this thread would die and I even considered deleting it, but to hopefully save the next dude some time, Here goes... My name is The Dude and I'm an idiot. That crazy sound that changed all the time and I spent hours taking crap apart, poking, prodding, stressing on, in the back of my mind thinking I might need to rebuild this thing and wasting your time on was.... A header bolt fell out and another couple were loose. There I said it. I'll be turning in my tools now.
    1 point
  9. Newby here but wanted to chime in on that noise. I noticed in the video your running the roller rockers with roller tips on them, are they the bushed style or individual needle bearings on the fulcrum? I've seen a lot of these aftermarket rockers develop cracks around the fulcrum area - some of the aluminum ones I've seen from china with roller bearings are pretty soft aluminum and have no liner between the rocker casting and the small needle bearings and they wear out the aluminum castings developing a lot of slack on the rocker. The other potential is the roller tips on them, if the pin is not sufficient or hearty enough it can distort, bend or wear in the rocker casing, especially if your running a pretty high lift cam or have high spring seat pressures. I would check your valve train as others have advised. Sounds like valve train noise especially as it has been progressing in your videos from what I can tell. If nothing else it would give you a chance to check the rest of the valve train - push rods, colasped lifters and such.
    1 point
  10. Prices vary by region and quality unfortunately. I will get you some pics later as the car is already at the rod run. I am heading up later today.
    1 point
  11. I didn’t really do anything with the trim I am using other than clean it up, I know this topic has been talked about a bunch but I did a little experiment after watching some YouTube videos on extra trim I had. figured this would be a cool post to add any tips and tricks you’ve found
    1 point
  12. In my experience, 99% of them are less then a 100 point restoration. These are one of the toughest car’s to restore back to factory, so the majority choose not too. Hat’s off to those who take on this difficult challenge to try and preserve the original history of some these car’s…
    1 point
  13. Good tip, like to see them kept “original” where possible.
    1 point
  14. That is a very true statement.
    1 point
  15. I sent mine out to be chromed. I know its not "correct" but really could care less.
    1 point
  16. bigfoot72, Go back and read your very first sentence of your thread, you state you want to get your timing correct BEFORE adjusting your carb!. The people in the know here are going to tell you it is Not the main jetting and SURELY not the secondary jetting. Stanglover has shown you what to look for in the distributor, you NEEDto do that first.
    1 point
  17. There is nothing more motivational then to look back at what you started with and what you have now. Once you see the return on your hard work it becomes easier to push on to complete the job. You are going to have one very nice ride when you are done. Great job.
    1 point
  18. A very good looking car. Welcome from Oklahoma. If you are considering new springs look at Eaton Detroit Springs. They are the only ones that have the correct ride height. Search this site for the stories about rear springs. Chuck
    1 point
  19. Nice looking car. I do like Studebakers, they've always had their own unique styling. I had an aunt and uncle who wouldn't own anything else, really pissed them off when Studebaker went out of production. The last car they owned was one of the last American built 1964 Larks. Before you start looking for an in dash tachometer you should take a look at Rocketman's (Bob) conversion. He'll take your idiot light pod and convert it into a 3-wire tachometer that looks factory, part number M7123S. Bob is a forum member and advertiser/site supporter Rocketman's Classic Mustang Innovations (rccinnovations.com) Welcome from Oregon.
    1 point
  20. Thanks for the update on what you have. Again, I'm not at all familiar with 73's, but a few more things come to mind. 1) is this motor stock or modified in any way? (other than the carb/intake) 2) Pertronix module, is it a black ignitor I or a red ignitor II. I hope it's not an ignitor III which is known to be problematic. 3) Your plugs are the equivalent to Autolite 25's, which were the plug spec'd for the 71 Boss motor. I use these in my motor as it proved to need a hotter plug with 10:1 compression ratio. I'm not sure what the spec'd plug is for a stock 73, might be worth checking as your plugs might be a bit too hot. 4) the distributor is an original Motorcraft/Autolite. What condition is it in overall, can you feel any sideways play on the shaft? Excessive movement might cause the timing to "wander", but not the cause of the backfire situation I'm thinking. If the dizzy is in ok condition, I would want to know what the timing slot number is. For this, you would need to pull the points breaker plate out. I might think it will be a 15L which equals 30 degrees of crank timing. This would likely have had only 6 degrees of initial timing for a total of 36 mechanical, no vacuum applied. For some reason, this number seems to be the max, BUT other than for emissions, 6 degrees is not enough for Cleveland's. That is why 12-16 degrees is desirable initially and why the slot number needs to be reduced. If your dizzy has a 13L slot, you could set the initial to 10 degrees and try that. Now here's a quick trick, place a piece of NYLON 1/8" tubing over the little post. That will get you close to a 10L slot. A 10L slot I found to be perfect on mine with 14 degrees of initial timing, 34 total, 20+14. This can and will get overwhelming I know. It took me a looong time to get it straight in my head, but then it's simple..... sort of! Maybe I'm getting a bit too far ahead at this time, but bottom line is you need to know what you're dealing with. Here's a couple of pics of the slot plates that might clear things.
    1 point
  21. Quick small update... Been busy on non mustang things these past weeks, but not entirely.. For 2 weekends in a row, I kept postponning the further install of my brakes. Simply because after seeing similar parts installed this past december on my 73 that are already starting to rust (that I now regret to have trusted their finish, expecting at least to last a couple of years) So been busy protecting 99% of the new parts I've received... From pressure plate to brake flexible fittings. Wanted install the idler arm to find out I forgot to handle the hardware that goes thru the frame that was still on the old one. So did that. The new strut rods rings/rubber were already starting to rust inside the box! So addressed that. Wanted to lower the car with wheels on, but the rusty old cragars were looking so bad, even if I will replace them when the car is finished, I couldn't bare to see these wheels on my restore suspension, so fixed that... A while back, I found out the drag link was crooked. Left it at a friend's place having a press and plan was to correct it while we do the AOD swap on my 73, but last week he surprised me by bringing me the corrected link. It was straight again, but also full of ancient hamering marks, rust etc... so fixed that too A bit carried away on the prep, after a a good zinc bath, the baby was looking real good. So good that the strut rods done last week got jealous!! :O So redid them using the same treatment, which is to polish the metal, re-zinc, paint and finish all with a layer of gloss coat. There are some flaws here and there, ancient marks still present etc.. but despite these, I'm pretty pleased with the way this original once rusted to death hardware is now looking!! Hopefully now that most parts are durably protected, I should now be able to install more parts back next weekend! To be continued...
    1 point
  22. The ceramic coating 24 hrs. later. A few pics.
    1 point
  23. Regarding PAW, I'm not sure exactly why they closed. Owner Keith Harvey had a fledgling mail order business going when he first decided to have his own machine shop. Good friend, Lauren Arana and I, were the first two machinists hired there. Lauren and I owned A&A Machine for a handfull of years prior to our lease being closed, and hearing that Keith Harvey was looking for automotive machinists. I left Paw to pursue other interests. Lauren, aka "The Baron" ( the boring bar baron ) soldiered on there for years before going on to work for Ed Pink's Racing Engines. All of the guys who worked there were memorable. Imagine working with names like "Frog', "Pinner", "Wigger", "Baron", "Spike", "Big Brian", "Bubba", "Pops", etc. Anyway, the business skyrocketed and production increased to a frantic level. Unfortunately, from my point of view, so was quality. Nonetheless, after I left, they continued and prospered and moved to a huge building, that Keith bought, and housed the warehousing and large machine shop under one roof. PAW also had a couple of satellite retail parts stores around the Valley. I do remember that Keith sold the huge building just months before the 2008 market crash, I'm sure he made a killing, and the new owner probably kicked himself on his timing. About this time, PAW struck a deal to sponsor Shirley Muldowney. The first big building had a showroom with many of Keith's car collection, as well as Kenny Bernstein's, Shirley's, and one other top fueler hanging from the ceiling. Keith moved Paw down the street eastward, where , in another building, they were until they closed some years later. The story I heard, is that Keith entered into an ugly divorce ( is there any other kind?), and the divorce was at the core of liquidating the business. Other than that rumor, I don't know for sure. As fate would have it, fast forward years later, and I was the Engine Assembler at Valley Head Service, two blocks away from that original location where I first worked for Harvey on Business Center Drive. Below are photos of Baron and Me in front of our shop, A&A Machine, along with some early photos of he and I. We've been friends before, since, and still. Diggin' those sideburns huh?
    1 point
  24. @Stanglover I think you can brag all you want.
    1 point
  25. After re-reading your entire post I still have not seen where you have checked the valve lash? I would take a few minutes and at least check it on cylinder 5 if nothing else. I would also bring it to tdc and see if you can push down on the rockers and if so how easy does it go down. As mentioned above check the header gasket and If there is no issue there I would then get your endoscope and look down in the cylinder. Try to have it at the bottom of the stroke. See if everything looks ok on the piston and the cylinder walls are fine.
    1 point
  26. When you buy a 50 year old car ….. Power top wiring, this was under 3 ft of electrical tape wrap. I can fix it easy enough but wow.
    0 points
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