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  1. Me and a couple of guys from work on Friday.
    9 points
  2. Then...then....then.... BooooM! ! !...then crack open a beer like a real man
    4 points
  3. In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined
    4 points
  4. I wondered why we don't see Rocketfoot much sometimes ... now we know
    3 points
  5. Not so much a horror story but they did try to swap parts with me. I was building a flathead V-8 and had a crank that was in great shape and never been ground so .010" grind was all that was needed. I have installed the bearings and measured them and had written down the diameters to grind each journal. I always stamp my initials on any parts I leave anywhere. When I went to pick up the crank they bring out a crank and it has been cut .020" or .030" and is not my crank. I demand mine and they say that is the one I dropped off. We were in the shop and I went to the grind area and pointed to a crank and said that is mine. They said not. I told them that if my initials were stamped on the second crank throw I was taking it. I picked it up and there was D.F.F. stamped so I walked out and never went back there. Always mark your parts in some way to identify them. Grind, etch, stamp but mark them and with today's digital photos take pictures. I have never taken many things for others to work on I have always done most of my work. Anyone that does not get a specific written, signed and even notarized contract is asking for issues. If they will not do that you need to go somewhere else.
    3 points
  6. Past weekend was dry, warm... Sooooo: barbecue time!! All the new parts that I've received over past months were either not coated, simply oiled or covered with some poor paint. None had of course the kind of finish I had in mind for them. So spend a good part of my saturday cleaning & degreasing them and mask/tape all the parts I could not remove, rubbers, threads etc.. Then just like the restored parts, they did receive a primer, their respective colors and a nice thick finish coat. Sunday was like xmas, lots to unwrap and it was even time to put some stuffs together, install nipples etc... Reassembled the spindles done last weeks with ther hardware plated last year. Installed all back together after a good cleaning and copper greasing of each thread. Was lots of work to get there, zinc plating them was not the easiest thing to do. But now, boy do they not look like a million??! :D Yes these are the same!! :D I know btw I need some wires for their nuts, Anyone have some info on how it should be done the right way? Never done that before, but really would love to have them "twisted" the right secure way. I will buy some SS wire for that asap. Then it was time to put the top arms together... 50 years old and looking goooood :D Then it was time to put all these babies together back into their original nest that is now making a nice contrast with its semi gloss black. Nothing torqued to specs yet until all is on.. Also gave love to the koni's that were plated last year and gave them the car body color (no red), that will look nice into the light grey coils that were done last week... All with all, it was nice to finally see all the work started last novembre come together! The other side fx is that I could get rid of many boxes and create some welcome space. One regret is that the long part that connects both sides (rod assembly, the drag link I think is the name) is still at a friend's place where it needs to go under press to correct the bow into it created at some point when someone jacked up the car with it... No biggy tho, as once I will have the steering box revised, i will need to paint it as well, so will do both at the same time. to be continued...
    3 points
  7. I installed this clip just as directed by Tim- pushing into the hole and with pliers and squeezing the tabs together. Two photos below. From underneath the car and from the footwell:
    3 points
  8. Well, it's been close to 3 months since I've posted an update, but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything. I've gotten the instrument cluster back together with LED bulbs installed. I got the steering column painted and reassembled, but the turn signal switch is binding, so I'll have to go back through it, one more time. I got the front and rear seats reupholstered with new foam and seat covers from TMI. Most of the wrinkles seen in the picture were worked out, and overall, the seats look pretty good. I also cut open the top of the new fuel tank and installed the new Tanks, Inc. electric fuel pump. I pretty much did what Autoedit did in the YouTube video, except I used a body saw instead of a hole saw, and oriented the fuel reservoir away from the sending unit to keep it from interfering, but otherwise did pretty much the same. A little work with the hammer and dolly got the lip flattened out and lining up with the sealing ring pretty well. Once the steel retaining ring is placed on the inside edge of the hole and the screws tightened down, it straightens the edge up even better. The retaining ring is installed and the screws inserted to secure it. The Viton washers were removed so that they would not get damaged when the retaining ring was tacked into the opening. After tack welding between each of the screw hole locations, the welds were ground down to make the top flush. Then the tank was cleaned with WD-40 and a magnet, plus wiping it out with some paper towels, and then more WD-40. It was a new tank, but I had gotten from a guy on Facebook marketplace, and there was a little but of crud inside it. It wasn't rust, but I'm not sure what it was. It took a little bit, but I was able to get the tank cleaned out really well. Then, it was time for the gasket sealer, top, and all those screws. Overall, the tank came out really well, and I'm pleased with it. Also, I've kept busy, building a motor for the Rickster. With all the Covid stuff going on, it took a while to get the cylinder heads shipped, but I finally got everything I needed. I had to hit up Don at Ohio Mustang Supply a few times for brackets, etc. since some were missing. I got the Power steering pump and brackets from him. It's a 50 year old pump of unknown history, so I went ahead and rebuilt it. Twice. When they say try not to let the spider come apart, there is a reason for that. My first attempt at reassembly, I got it wrong, and after reinstalling the pump discovered it wouldn't turn very easily. I pulled it all apart, went back through it, and found I had the slippers upside down. DOH!!! After the second or third time putting the spider together, I did develop a feel for it, and it's not difficult, but the first time or two, it can be pretty frustrating. Once reassembled, I double checked and it turned easily, and after installation on the motor, it only required 4 in-lbs of force to turn the pulley, well, within the factory spec of 2-15 in-lbs. Tomorrow, I'll post about the engine build but that's enough for now. Except to say, that the paint shop says the Rickster is very close to done, and should be back in my garage in the next week or so. WooHoo!!! Then the real fun begins - reassembly.
    3 points
  9. Hi Moose That is repairable ... an easy piece of work for me -- but may be fiddly and irritating for someone who's not done it before Its done in the same way I rebuild blown track on Printed Circuit Boards in the electronic systems I deal with at work. I don't disagree - its a painstaking, often irritating job. Clean and lap down the faces where it has blown raised areas with tiny diamond tip of a Dremel (small rotary tool) Clean any copper spatter out of the trenches Get slightly oversized diameter copper wire - remove the enamel and make a piece to fit precisely into your gap Place a tiny drop of nail varnish (Yes ....girlie nail varnish) in the gap (clear is best so you can see the substrate you're working on) With tweezers lay the piece into the gap and let the varnish harden (5mins) Solder each end delicately ("Sodder" in Amercanese ) Then flatten to the same surface height by removing excess copper/sodder with fine diamond dip with Dremel Fine polish with wet/dry emery paper voila - a new track
    3 points
  10. Took him to a show. He got surrounded by a whole bunch of farting little Brit cars and Euro-boxes
    3 points
  11. Nice looking group of steeds!! I like the stance on yours.
    3 points
  12. Well, the forums are full of activity again… 71 Mustangs made 50th anniversary this year … mine turned 50 in May this year, as did so many others … and yes… I made him a cake and we celebrated. fordismyboss has is big block out in public…. Someone, please all the authorities. RIBS, has found holes. I think it’s so people you’ve locked in the trunk… to dispose of later, can breathe. bdennis has gone for amber turn signals … we know Aussies are just a bunch of flashers :-p tony-muscle has to have his nuts tightened because he’s lost his bearings…. I’m sure hot girls are involved in this somewhere. Galucha Is fiddling with his suspension … oh NO ! ! ! ! please don’t turn it into a low rider. Stewart, Has come in as new member from Aus (…do you come from a land down-under?) and brought ”funnel web spiders” with him … just don’t get into his car without a full security sweep first. 73inNH Is trying to get his “rod” and his “bar” into place…. Chat to your girlfriend, she’ll know just how to do that :-p Marty Report postings are up – check out the history… I cant wait for the day when one comes back with “previous owner” Jay Leno. As a passing note…one of the best gentlemen in the business… Dusty Hill of ZZ Top passed away this week. But look on the bright side folks – he lived a full life giving us fantastic showmanship and huge moonshine fuelled rock. View the full article
    2 points
  13. The base configuration has a 3 pin door jamb switch on the driver's side and a 2 pin on the passenger side. However, with the convenience harness as an option, the passenger side door jamb connector plugs into the convenience harness pigtail and a 3 pin actually goes to the door jamb to allow the seat back release to occur when the passenger door opens. The courtesy lights work when either the driver or passenger side doors open allowing current to flow from the green/yellow wire at the door jamb to the black/blue wires, which actually light the lamps.
    2 points
  14. Figured I'd document my ongoing suspension/steering system overhaul here in case anyone is looking at doing something similar. So far I've done: - 12.7:1 quick ratio steering box from Redhead - new pitman arm, idler arm, rag joint, inner tie rods - Baer adjustable outer tie rods for bump steer elimination - 1 1/8" front sway bar - StreetorTrack front coilover conversion And I'm starting on the StreetorTrack rear 3-link suspension install this weekend. This should be considerably more involved than everything else listed above, so on one hand I'm somewhat intimidated by it, but on the other I'm really excited because this is the last suspension component I'm doing other than subframe connectors eventually.
    2 points
  15. Cool AMX... NOW back to our regularly scheduled programming... LOL!!
    2 points
  16. Installed a USB charger for the cigarette lighter socket with one of these, no change to the socket and this unit fits tight. Pulled out the threaded bit on the lighter knob and epoxied in a cut down male USB plug. Had to make sure all wires were removed to prevent any short circuit; It's only fractionally longer that the original lighter. Looks ok in place and also has an "on" light on the usb adapter. During my re-wire I changed the lighter to switched power so no chance of being left on.
    2 points
  17. I had taken the engine to the machine shop back in early December. They had said it would take about 2 weeks, which turned into closer to 6 weeks. The owner, I found out, was winding down, moving into retirement, and the shop seemed a bit disorganized, but they had gotten decent reviews. Once I got the motor home, I got it on the engine stand, sprayed it with a generous coating of WD-40, and bagged it. Every couple weeks, I would pull the bag off, spray it with more WD-40, and recover it. After the Rickster went off to paint, it was time to get to work on the motor. I cleaned it, checked it, and then cleaned it again. I checked the crankshaft main bearing clearances with plastigage and all were in spec. I checked the rod bearing clearances with plastigage, as well, and all were right on the money. Great!!! Pistons and rings were installed and everything seemed normal enough. Cam installation was straightforward. I installed a Lunati roller cam and lifters. I got the head gaskets and Trickflow cylinder heads bolted on and torqued. The intake manifold was next and that is where things started going sideways. The intake bolts on the Cleveland, of course, are angled, and the intake must be matched to the head quite precisely. I was having no luck getting them to line up. I determined that the manifold was sitting to high. The block had been decked, but only enough to square it. The machinist couldn't remember exactly how much he had taken off, which I found a little concering. Hmmm. I took the intake manifold to the shop, and they informed me that the Edelbrock Performer 2V intake manifold had been previously milled. We decided that they should take .020 to .030 off each side and see where it sat. In the end, they took off .027 off each side, which was needed to true up one side that was out of square. Great. The intake manifold now sits where it need so the gaskets will seal it properly. Before buttoning it all up, though, I measured for new pushrods, which turned out to be 8.100. Got them ordered figuring it would take the normal 2 days to get here. Eight days later, they arrived, having traveled across much of the USA. Pushrods installed, roller rockers installed and lash set, and finally, the valve cover gaskets can go on. But wait, the rollers are keeping the stock valve covers that I had thoroughly cleaned, removed dents, and painted. The right side actually fit, but the driver side was definitely interfering. New valve covers were ordered and arrived a few days later. I got them intalled, and they fit fine, but seem kind of tall. I am going to use the FAST EZ EFI system, because I have it from an older project that stalled out a few years back. I put the throttle body on the intake and set the ram air cleaner box on it, only to find that it fouled on the valve covers. Soooo, I ordered a 1/2" spacer and now have a maybe 1/4" clearance. With all that sorted, I got the distributor which had a busted vacuum advance nipple, so I got a new vacuum advance for it, I got the tiny clip removed and then the first screw. Both screws were rusty, but the first one came out okay, taking my time and using penetrating oil and heat. The second screw decided to just wring off about halfway down the hole. I tried to drill it out, but the drill bit broke off, so I have been fighting the thing fixed for 6 or 7 weeks now. I took it to a local machine shop, but they were too backed up to help me out. They did tell me, though, that the machine shop had done the machine work on the block had had a lot of problems with quality control lately, and had ruined a few blocks and cylinder heads. I felt okay about the crank and rod bearing clearances, but hadn't checked the bores. Soooo, off comes the intake, valve cover, rockers and pushrods, cylinder heads, etc. I got out the dial bore gauge and micrometer, and measured each bore at the bottom, just above the piston, middle of the run and at the top of the bore, front to back, and side to side. Six measurements on each cylinder. Each cylinder was pretty uniform, with the 48 measurements ranging from 4.03035 to 4.03102. Most of the cylinders were within about .00030 to .00040, although some of that can be just variation inherent in measuring the diameter of a cylinder. I am satisfied, though, that they didn't screw it up, so I got new intake manifold gaskets, and got the motor put back together, once again. Back to the distributor, I finally found a machine shop that said they might be about to repair it, so I'm hoping that in the next few days, I'll get good news from them. Then I can get the distributor rebuilt, and installed. I did look into a new Pertronix billet distributor, but it didn't fit under the air box. I just found that they do make shorter Pertronix distributors, but at this point, I'm waiting for the machine shop. So that is my engine building saga. Thanks to Don at Ohio Mustang for helping me out with AC and power steering brackets. It's coming together, slowly, but surely. Hopefully, the Rickster will be back soon, and we can get that motor filling the engine bay.
    2 points
  18. This am is 7 Bear Sunday. Mom w/3 cubs on the side of the house and mom w/2 cubs out back. Mom/2 eventually came into he back yard to clean off the bird feeding area they had already raided earlier. Hoping they do not get together as mom/3 is mean. I have had to break up bear fights a few times over the years. Every day we have either one of these moms with her cubs here but this is one of the rare times they are here at the same time. 617627496_7bearsunday008.MOV1182725054_7bearsunday010.MOV
    2 points
  19. My intention this weekend was to dig my back window out of my closet and get it ready for install. Instead I did the throttle cable and charcoal canister .
    2 points
  20. Motor came apart today. He found one bad rod bearing, said the crank measured out fine and will just get polished up. Out of an abundance of caution, he's disassembling the engine, performing a complete inspection and will clean out all the oil passages. He's a bit baffled by the bearing failure, but agrees it must have happened on the dyno. Told him that I had to adjust #3 intake, even though he had run through the valves several times, so a thorough inspection of the cam in lifters is also in order. If there is even the least bit of suspicion about them, they'll be replaced.
    2 points
  21. Hi.it's been a little while. A couple things.I did figure out how to keep the coil springs in the front of the car.I am currently working on those parts and of course will post pics when I am done. I took a little break from the car because the spring thing was driving me nuts. I'm one of those people that will work till the point of mental exhaustion to figure out a solution to a problem.But in the two weeks that I really didn't touch the car. I bought a 73 AMX,360, 4speed, Go Pack car,that's eventually going to become the street car my Mach1 was going to be.And while messing with the AMX I got over the mental block I had with the Mustang.So when I get the coil spring maker not falling outters installed I will be moving on to the wheel flares.So here is the AMX.I don't think anybody on here will mind one little ole pic of an AMC....................oh ya...........NO Trans Am mods to the AMX ,I promise.
    2 points
  22. If you know a veterinarian you might want to borrow a pair of their shoulder length rubber gloves and wear a rain coat and face shield. No matter how long you let it set and drip dry you'll still get rained on by fluid when you start removing screws and nuts on the valve body.
    2 points
  23. Test fitting everything today. A couple of things I've noticed. 1: the gas tank straps are going to have to to in before the watts bar as it looks like the bar sits right beneath them. 2: not going to be able to use the factory brake line support bracket as the 3rd link bar needs to go where it is. Going to have to do some creative brake line rerouting. Next step is to take out the pinion snubber plate that's welded in the transmission tunnel with a spot weld drill, then I can actually bolt the watts bar and 3rd link bar to the frame.
    2 points
  24. I removed the heater/AC box and replaced the heater core. As it turns out the job was pretty straight forward and not as difficult as I had anticipated from my research. I followed the steps in the Ford Shop Manual. First I removed the carpet. I am installing new carpet anyway and figured I'd need every inch of room to drop the box. The floor was in real good shape. Next I laid out a sheet of craft paper on a table. Not knowing what all parts I would be removing I labeled everything on the table as I removed things. If I am not going to be immediately reassembling something I am careful to bag and label, but if I know I am immediately putting everything back together I find the table labeling method to be more convenient. The box was in real good shape. No internal signs of leakage. No critter nests. No cracks or chips. Of particular note. I did not have to remove the dash. (the Ford manuals confirm this). By removing the footwell side trim and the carpet and padding I had just enough room to pull the box right and rotate it out from under the dash. Other than removing the glove box and door no other disassembly was necessary. Here's a photo of the box prior to disassembly. And here it is torn down. I did buy a seal kit and replaced all the foam when I put the box back together. I also spent the extra $15 to buy a non-aluminum heater core. I have not had good luck with aluminum cores as they do not appear to hold up over time. I did check the new core for leaks (as suggested by David w Carolina Mountain Mustangs) prior to installation. I removed the A/C evaporator since it is no longer needed. Since moving to North Idaho from Florida I find there is really no need for air conditioning and I have removed the compressor and other A/C equipment from the engine bay to give me more room. The box went back in even easier than it came out. I'd say the whole job start to finish took about four leisurely hours. Having done the job once now I could probably do it again in about half the time. All in all not the horror story I was anticipating.
    2 points
  25. I installed new rear axle seals and brakes. Thankfully the rear bearings were good so I didn't need to replace them. Rear drum brakes are something I really don't enjoy doing. It is a very messy job and even with the right brake tools I always end up struggling with a spring or retainer. A scrape or cut on one hand or the other just add to the experience. I am happy to have the job behind me. Tomorrow I dig into the heater core replacement. After researching what is involved to get to the heater core I suspect I going to find I prefer working on rear brakes...
    2 points
  26. The parts fairy made a visit today. Two new top cylinders installed, first pass at rim blow rebuild.
    2 points
  27. Takes after grandpas beer belly 😂
    2 points
  28. Well, today I moved to the other end of the powertrain. I removed the factory 2.75 one-wheeler-peeler and installed a new 3.81 Eaton Truetrac rear end that I purchased from Quick Performance. First I pulled the axles. Here's what the diff looks like after 48 years. I spent more time removing the old gasket that all the rest of the job combined! Since the new gasket ran me $20!!, I figured it deserved a photo of it's own: And now the finished install. Damn was it heavy. Heavier than the Tremec transmission. Tomorrow I plan to tackle the rear brakes, install new axle seals, and put the rear end back together so I can lower the car and measure for the new driveshaft.
    2 points
  29. You guys are just going to have to get used to me mentioning the AMX every once in a while,it's part of the family....LOL...................AND NOW,back to our regularly scheduled program.I've been working on this problem for about a month...ish.And yes while messing with the AMX it did hit me,and I knew what I was going to do.The stock suspension sits on the frame at full droop,so why not build mounts the bolt to the car,just up higher in the chassis to make up for the shorter spring.So here we are.The chassis brackets are short enough to allow the spring to to removed and installed. Then bolt on the stop brackets and done. They hold tension on the spring so it can't rotate in the seat or fall out of the car.Everything is made of 1/8'',with 5/16'' grade 8 fine thread bolts.I left my self enough material to install 2 more bolts per side and upgrade them to 3/8th if I wanted to.There is no deflection in the mounts and it works like it should and looks like it belongs on the car.
    1 point
  30. I have a fair library of manuals and "how to" books. Some repops, some originals. The 71, 68 & 65 are reproductions, the rest are originals. The 71 & 68 I bought ages ago from Mustangs Unlimited. The 65 I bought last year from Rock Auto and it's a Detroit Iron publication. Quality is excellent and the paper is good, heavy stock. They have the 73 manual set for $60. The only caveat there is it's missing Volume 6, the one with the emissions and vacuum diagrams. RA also sells the Dave Graham reproductions, which I've heard terrible reviews on, as they supposedly have huge watermarks. I recently bought a Detroit Iron digital manual for the 73s and it's pretty darn good for $20. It's also missing volume 6, but does have the complete dealer service department wiring diagrams. FWIW, the Haynes V8 Mustang manual is worth the $20 as a good reference piece. Try to find a used one with the 72 Mach 1 cutaway on the cover, as it has the heavier paper stock, not the newsprint they use today.
    1 point
  31. I just printed out a pdf copy of the speaker plate and at 100% scaling it looks spot on. I found some Sony 4x6 speakers at Walmart that I'll mount for now. Now if I can just figure out how to adjust the motor speed on my 8-track...
    1 point
  32. Excellent idea, David. If I ever find a machinist that I think is up to the job I have a block and a pair of heads that need some work and I will do something to identify them. I've used initials and partial SSN on things in the past. The last time I had machine work done I knew the shop and machinist. Moved too many times, don't know anyone, now.
    1 point
  33. Ok both the watts bar and 3rd link bar are bolted to the frame rails now. The watts bar slid over the frame rails no problem, but I did have some difficulty getting the 3rd link bar fully seated - it was about 1/8" too narrow as you can see from the first pic. Emailed Shaun at StreetorTrack and he said that's typical as some cars will have wider or narrower set frame rails than others, and to use a dead blow hammer to get it lined up. I will say the step bolts they gave you use to bolt everything up are pretty intuitive. They have you drill a 1/2" hole on the outboard side of your frame rails, and a 3/8" hole on the inboard side, so that the step bolt can effectively clamp both sides of the frame rails. Let's you torque them on pretty tight without worrying about warping anything.
    1 point
  34. Leave it open. If you connect them the buzzer will sound whenever the key is on and the belts aren't connected.
    1 point
  35. Now I wonder why I like that colour
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. I found my car in January 2000 (summer time here). I had been looking at Mustangs for a while and most had fresh paint or were basket cases. This one was at least honest and RHD converted (Passing trucks on the open road in Australia when driving in the left seat is not much fun-You have to put a lot of car out there to have look.) . She had an older respray, visible small amounts of rust and evidence of having had more hits than Elvis. The front end was bad. The steering had a heap of play. She was shod with bald retreaded tyres. I actually left the car yard and on the way home changed my mind and returned to put a deposit on her. I think I felt sorry for her. All I asked was that they transfer the registration to our state. The salesman told me that the car was for sale due to a divorce settlement. One week later i picked her up and had my first drive. Bad was an understatement. I drove her down to my race sponsor's back shed where we rebuilt the front end and steering box. We put new shockers on (They are the same as some Australian Falcons). The Kelly Tire rep sold me 4 brand new tyres for $50aud each which was an absolute bargain. It probably helped that my race buggy was also shod with Kelly's through my sponsor We then wheel aligned her. Two weeks later I took her for a proper drive. She was a different car. In the 20 years that I have owned her she has never let me down and she has been to a lot of places, including camping at off road race meetings up north.. A panel beater friend of mine cut the rust out and fabricated a patch panel for the filler panel between trunk and roof. That was the only paint that I have had done since I bought the car so the current photos look the same as the day I bought her. I have started stripping her down for body and mechanical repairs. I have discovered that she is a numbers matching car. Dickheads often offer me money for her as apparently they will take it off my hands because "no-one" wants this style of Mustang I could never sell her as I consider her to be family.
    1 point
  38. When I stated sanding on the 1972 Q code vert I bought as a failed restoration I found the drivers door NOT SO GOOD. He had done some patching on the rusty bottom and there was way too much body filler for my taste. So taking that door off is what finished my neck off. I have been looking everywhere, facebook marketplace and Craigslist for a better door. Most were just as bad as what I have. Then last week I found a pair of doors with power windows and he had the rear PW also. So I went and picked them up on Friday. Was sitting parked on I-40, due to a crash miles ahead, and it was 95 deg. My truck AC does not work so I was cooking. It got to 98 before I headed back home. The doors are pretty solid, tearing them down now, and I will only need the drivers door as far as I know. The Power Windows will go to Ebay. I needed the rear switch bases but only one was present in this set. It was also a door speaker car so the wire harness for the front doors includes the door speakers which if very difficult to find. The front bezels are there but for sure not pristine would need a re plate to be show quality. He did not have the under hood and under dash part of the wire harness so no solenoid. The guy selling the parts was clearing out his dad's hoard of parts and cars. He had over 200 cars and all but a few are gone. Even had 1932 and 1934 fords. He said they were the only two cars that actually brought more money than his dad paid for them. He backed up the fact that all the old guys are dying off and getting lower and lower prices for the older cars. He said the 55, 56 and 57 cheys he had brought way less than his dad paid for them years ago. The last two mustangs he has is a 1966 vert that was a T code 6 cylinder with bench seat. I looked at it but not worth even $500, no title and not door tag but the VIN# is still in the inner fender so you could get title. No engine and had automatic shifter but had clutch pedal. He is due to send me pics of the 1966 fastback he has that I have interest in for a flipper. I have several people searching for them of course. He had two more Fords I was interested in but he would not let me see them. A 1949 Ford Woodie Wagon and a 1951 Mercury Woodie Wagon. The Mercury would be a real find. I do not think I have ever seen one in person. He said his wife wants that one. When I get the Power Window stuff boxed up for Ebay will send link to ad. Oh BTW one guy on Marketplace wanted $800 for a bare door nothing but the door and not that great. I drove back through Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, Tenn.. WOW were the tourists out by the thousands. Saw one lone elk in a field just before getting to Cherokee.
    1 point
  39. Got the rest of the frame jig finished. Got it all measured out and welded down per the factory specs. And then I broke out the old torch and cut the front clip off. Still need to wire wheel everything and drill out spot welds but got a lot done today. Here’s a few pics of the progress.
    1 point
  40. Ok everything that needs to come off the car is out. Going to be taking tomorrow to start wire wheeling everything under here and prep for paint. Figured I might as well do that now since I don't know when I'll have the rear disassembled like this again.
    1 point
  41. 2 posts are often cheaper and get the job done - but a waste of money? I Wildly disagree, they are not just for "storage". They allow a very good level of utility. I have a Titan 7000 lb, 4 post lift. I use it almost every day, for general maintenance on all our vehicles, including my daughters cars. I originally bought this model lift back in 2009 or 2010, but when I moved in 2015 it stayed with the house. A year later, bought the same model for the new place. It was around $2700 delivered. Mine has the casters plus i spent an extra $600 for a sliding hydraulic jack (so I could lift the front or rear off the deck plates for things like brake work). I've used it for transmission swaps on both my project cars, exhaust and suspension and brake work, and when I pull a motor, I park the car on the list so I can raise it for easy access underneath. No issues/complaints, I like it. Best tool I own.
    1 point
  42. Pulled out the gauges and went with the white faces. Also the KPH face. Even though I was around pre-metric the brain gets a bit foggy doing MPH/KPH calculations on the go. Also fitted all LEDs in the gauges. Much easier to read. David
    1 point
  43. The seats are both finished and in the car. Love the finished product. I may try and adjust things to move the drivers seat back a little further than factory, but couldnt be happier with the finished product.
    1 point
  44. A Trip To The Doctor's Office An 85-year-old man went to his doctor's office to get a sperm count. The doctor gave the man a small jar and said, "Take this jar home and bring back a semen sample tomorrow." The next day the 85-year-old man reappeared at the doctor's office and gave him the jar, which was as clean and empty as on the previous day. The doctor asked what happened and the man explained: "Well, doc, it's like this - First I tried with my right hand, but nothing. Then I tried with my left hand, but still nothing. Then I asked my wife for help. She tried with her right hand, then her left, still nothing. She tried with her mouth, first with the teeth in, then with her teeth out, and still nothing. We even called up Arleen, the lady next door and she tried too, first with both hands, then an armpit and she even tried squeezin' it between her knees, but still nothing." The doctor was shocked! "You asked your neighbor?" The old man replied, "Yep. And no matter what we tried, we still couldn't get the jar open." HaHa - What were you thinking?
    1 point
  45. One gripe only !........ the placement of the fusebox What asshat decided that sticking it under the dash, right around the corner at the right hand side tucked up close to the steering column "in the dark", was a good idea? How deranged do you need to be? Why do we have to stand on our heads with a flashlight ? Not only did they mount it in the most galactically stupid place, but they then did mixed condition on physical size and orientation of fuses to make it even more of an encryption When you need to replace/check a fuse it's nice to see which one - the value - the size - then when replacing, to be able to do it easily, see that it locates good and not have to be a contortionist to get in there. WTF was the designer high on? ..Absinthe, mushrooms..........sniffing glue? ........WHAT ?!!!
    1 point
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