Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/29/2021 in all areas

  1. Then...then....then.... BooooM! ! !...then crack open a beer like a real man
    5 points
  2. In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined
    4 points
  3. Been a while since I updated, so here goes. A bit frustrated at the moment. I started putting stripes on today—right off I screwed up and put one of the door stripes backwards—picture below. I am blaming the graphic reference I taped to the window—ha ha. Had to peel it off and now I have to buy another kit. Then I tried lining up the lower body stripe kit and realized they don’t give you enough stripe to do the whole car, it takes 1 1/2 kits unless mine was missing bits. Calling NPD tomorrow on that one. I did manage to get one side fully and correctly striped with the hockey stick and Mach 1 emblem. I did the hood blackout yesterday, it turned out pretty good. Based on my experience with the PPG Hot Rod Black it will dull up a bit more over the next few weeks as it cures. Picture of that below. Otherwise body assembly is done and I am waiting my upholstery kit. It turns out a buddy of mine has a connection with the company that manufactures the kits so he is going to see what is going on for me. The car is turning out really nice, and after putting the hood blackout and side stripes on, Wimbledon White is looking pretty good. I know I expressed a lot of concern early on, but it is going to look sharp.
    3 points
  4. Well, the forums are full of activity again… 71 Mustangs made 50th anniversary this year … mine turned 50 in May this year, as did so many others … and yes… I made him a cake and we celebrated. fordismyboss has is big block out in public…. Someone, please all the authorities. RIBS, has found holes. I think it’s so people you’ve locked in the trunk… to dispose of later, can breathe. bdennis has gone for amber turn signals … we know Aussies are just a bunch of flashers :-p tony-muscle has to have his nuts tightened because he’s lost his bearings…. I’m sure hot girls are involved in this somewhere. Galucha Is fiddling with his suspension … oh NO ! ! ! ! please don’t turn it into a low rider. Stewart, Has come in as new member from Aus (…do you come from a land down-under?) and brought ”funnel web spiders” with him … just don’t get into his car without a full security sweep first. 73inNH Is trying to get his “rod” and his “bar” into place…. Chat to your girlfriend, she’ll know just how to do that :-p Marty Report postings are up – check out the history… I cant wait for the day when one comes back with “previous owner” Jay Leno. As a passing note…one of the best gentlemen in the business… Dusty Hill of ZZ Top passed away this week. But look on the bright side folks – he lived a full life giving us fantastic showmanship and huge moonshine fuelled rock. View the full article
    3 points
  5. I wondered why we don't see Rocketfoot much sometimes ... now we know
    3 points
  6. The base configuration has a 3 pin door jamb switch on the driver's side and a 2 pin on the passenger side. However, with the convenience harness as an option, the passenger side door jamb connector plugs into the convenience harness pigtail and a 3 pin actually goes to the door jamb to allow the seat back release to occur when the passenger door opens. The courtesy lights work when either the driver or passenger side doors open allowing current to flow from the green/yellow wire at the door jamb to the black/blue wires, which actually light the lamps.
    3 points
  7. Not so much a horror story but they did try to swap parts with me. I was building a flathead V-8 and had a crank that was in great shape and never been ground so .010" grind was all that was needed. I have installed the bearings and measured them and had written down the diameters to grind each journal. I always stamp my initials on any parts I leave anywhere. When I went to pick up the crank they bring out a crank and it has been cut .020" or .030" and is not my crank. I demand mine and they say that is the one I dropped off. We were in the shop and I went to the grind area and pointed to a crank and said that is mine. They said not. I told them that if my initials were stamped on the second crank throw I was taking it. I picked it up and there was D.F.F. stamped so I walked out and never went back there. Always mark your parts in some way to identify them. Grind, etch, stamp but mark them and with today's digital photos take pictures. I have never taken many things for others to work on I have always done most of my work. Anyone that does not get a specific written, signed and even notarized contract is asking for issues. If they will not do that you need to go somewhere else.
    3 points
  8. I fabricated a spacer to move the new Hurst shift lever aft 3/4" and right 1/4" to better align the lever with the new OEM spec rubber boot. I finished up the new carpet install. I must say it looks a little strange to see a clutch pedal and shifter in my Mustang after all these 'automatic" decades. I'll finish up work on the center console next. he console should trim out and hide the shifter boot attachment bolts.
    2 points
  9. Hello everyone, i want to apologize in advance, im new here and if i do anything wrong or if my spelling isn’t that great, english is not my first language! so to make a long story short, a while ago my dad passed away and left me a 1973 mach 1. It was his life work, he has been working on it since before i was born, my childhood is full of memories of me ”helping” him work on it. He almost got done restoring it. The only thing left is the interior. It is now my time to pick up the torch and complete this restoration and its very.. overwhelming. where do i even start? I work as a car mechanic and hope to figure stuff out as i go, but where do i even start? i have attached some pictures of the current state of the interior as well of some parts that have been removed. Are you supposed to put insulation under the floor mat? it looks like insulation have been removed on the roof, should i put insulation on the roof? any help would be greatly appreciated! or if anyone have suggestions in what order i should do stuff and whatnot. any links to information would also be appreciated, my google skills are not the best. and again, sorry if i post this in the wrong place or anything like that best regards, Alex. EDIT: dont know where i got -73 from, pretty sure its a -71
    2 points
  10. Here is my aftermarket hood story. I went ahead and ordered up a Scott Drake hood (I normally avoid Scott Drake brand products) from Summit Racing. I ordered from Summit because they have a warehouse less than 300 miles away from my house and have good customer service. Also helped that the hood itself was inexpensive. Hood arrived packaged pretty well in a large cardboard box. Where the hood trim gets applied on the front edge it was bent a tiny amount on one corner. About a minute later with a hammer it was back into shape. I fitted the hood and had to do a couple things to it. First I had to remove a tiny bit of material from the nose of the hood in a couple spots so the trim would sit perfect. Where the hood is spot welded together under the front trim it had a bit of material sticking too far forward. Easy to fix, and undetectable once done. 2nd thing I had to fix was the curvature of the hood. In my case the hood had to be flattened a bit from front to back to make it match my OEM fenders. This was more caveman like to fix. I had to support the hood and give it CPR in the middle along the drivers and passenger side edges. Took some hammer work too. Honestly I was a little chicken at first and had to drink some liquid courage to apply enough force to do anything. This left me with some very small imperfections along the edge that will have to be addressed when it is time for paint. Overall I was happy with the hood, but like any repop piece of metal it is close, but not perfect.
    2 points
  11. Installed z bar and all associated bushings tonight. All went well, no real issues. The clutch pedal linkage rod looked ok. Replaced that bushing as well. Test drive was a success. :) Thanks for the help, all!
    2 points
  12. I reassembled my instrument cluster after installing LED lights. After bench testing to confirm all was well I reinstalled the cluster. Unfortunately after screwing it back in place in the dash the lights did not light up when I turned on the headlights. Damn... After some troubleshooting I determined that the switch was to blame. I guess after 48 years some corrosion is to be expected. Since the dimmer resistance coil was loose on the switch and the internal contacts are suspect I decided not to try and clean it. I have ordered a new switch. I moved on from the dash to the underside and fitted up the new exhaust system. The tailpipes are going to need a little work to get the tips to exit through the rear valence in the right spot, but otherwise all was well. I am hoping my new driveshaft shows up next week.
    2 points
  13. Cool AMX... NOW back to our regularly scheduled programming... LOL!!
    2 points
  14. Installed a USB charger for the cigarette lighter socket with one of these, no change to the socket and this unit fits tight. Pulled out the threaded bit on the lighter knob and epoxied in a cut down male USB plug. Had to make sure all wires were removed to prevent any short circuit; It's only fractionally longer that the original lighter. Looks ok in place and also has an "on" light on the usb adapter. During my re-wire I changed the lighter to switched power so no chance of being left on.
    2 points
  15. If you know a veterinarian you might want to borrow a pair of their shoulder length rubber gloves and wear a rain coat and face shield. No matter how long you let it set and drip dry you'll still get rained on by fluid when you start removing screws and nuts on the valve body.
    2 points
  16. Took him to a show. He got surrounded by a whole bunch of farting little Brit cars and Euro-boxes
    2 points
  17. Pictured are a 73 black deluxe seat belt set, a 73 standard front seat buckle side belt and some other black seat belt plastic parts. Black deluxe seat belts used standard black shoulder belts. What makes a black set deluxe are the bright metal buckles. A partial set of 73 blue deluxe seat belts, probably out of a convertible as there are no blue shoulder belts. A partial set of 71 ginger deluxe seat belts. Ginger interior items. And ginger, black and white seat items. I have 4 additional seat bottoms not shown. All would need recovering. Also have 6 seat backs. PM me about any items you have interest in.
    1 point
  18. Bought mine direct from Graphics Express. No problem whatsoever. Fast shipping, excellent product and a perfect easy fit.
    1 point
  19. I went ahead and got one of the thermostats from TMeyer. Haven't fired up the car yet so no feedback on if that did the trick. But here's a nice thing , I take out the thermostat and there's a chunk of metal wedged along it's edge. So I'm guessing a chunk of an old thermostat that rotted out or failed water pump, heater core or something like that. Of course now the is there any more of that crap in there waiting to clog up something important or trash the water pump? Now I think I need to start giving my car a daily baby aspirin to keep it from getting a blockage.
    1 point
  20. or for sound deadening you can use a spray in product like this https://lizardskin.com/
    1 point
  21. Yes, it originally had insulation under the floor mat and in the roof. A popular substitute for the original fiber insulation (sound deadener) is Dynamat and similar products: Dynamat XGMC1D (summitracing.com) Summit Racing SUM-879020 Summit Racing® Ultra Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats | Summit Racing A similar lower cost product is available from hardware stores: Peel & Seal Instant Waterproof Repairs 6-in x 25-ft Aluminum Roll Flashing in the Roll Flashing department at Lowes.com Welcome to the forum, from Oregon
    1 point
  22. 9.00 on ebay eBay item number: 133658718270 or pm me
    1 point
  23. The convenience harness has 2 male plugs: one for the seat back release with a thick wire, usually black, and the other for the seat belt light/relay system (thinner wire). The thinner wire plugs into the 3 prong plug coming from the fuse box; the thicker wire goes to another yellow 3 prong plug coming from a power line coming through the firewall and attaches at the other end to the battery side of the solenoid. Your picture appears to be the latter (firewall) power lead. I can hear the video but I can't see any pictures, so I can't tell you what's going on. If your passenger side courtesy light comes on but not the driver's side when you open the driver's door, then you probably have a faulty connection at the bulb/socket. Each year (71,2,3) has slightly different wiring for the courtesy lights. IIRC, the 73 underdash courtesy lights have a separate harness that starts on the passenger side and runs to the driver's side and stops, but may have outlets for door lights (option). If this is correct, then you may have a broken wire between the passenger and driver's side bulbs.
    1 point
  24. Jason- I have a set of the original Ford Shop Manuals that I bought direct from Ford back in 1975. They came in a five volume set and I use them most every day I work on the car. I highly recommend them. It looks like NPD sells a repro: https://www.npdlink.com/product/shop-manual-printed-1973-ford-mercury-car/138046?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshop%2Bmanual%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1973&year=1973 If the above repro is anything like the repro I recently bought from them for the 1970 model year, the repro is just as the original but they combine volumes into a couple of bindings instead of separate books for each volume. The separate bindings are easier to lay out flat on a workbench but other than that the repros are just like the originals. Worth the $ if you are planning to get serious!
    1 point
  25. That caught me out with my Green one -- and this is the problem when a previous owner had also been dicking about with the wiring -- I ordered new and what I got was 2 prong... I tried to install to drivers side and found 3x wires. one terminated out by previous owner... I learned the "don't assume you're working with originality" lesson here.
    1 point
  26. I have a fair library of manuals and "how to" books. Some repops, some originals. The 71, 68 & 65 are reproductions, the rest are originals. The 71 & 68 I bought ages ago from Mustangs Unlimited. The 65 I bought last year from Rock Auto and it's a Detroit Iron publication. Quality is excellent and the paper is good, heavy stock. They have the 73 manual set for $60. The only caveat there is it's missing Volume 6, the one with the emissions and vacuum diagrams. RA also sells the Dave Graham reproductions, which I've heard terrible reviews on, as they supposedly have huge watermarks. I recently bought a Detroit Iron digital manual for the 73s and it's pretty darn good for $20. It's also missing volume 6, but does have the complete dealer service department wiring diagrams. FWIW, the Haynes V8 Mustang manual is worth the $20 as a good reference piece. Try to find a used one with the 72 Mach 1 cutaway on the cover, as it has the heavier paper stock, not the newsprint they use today.
    1 point
  27. I suggested changing the rod bolt nuts, not the bolts. The OEM nuts are a known failure item. Chuck
    1 point
  28. I would recommend Oilite Bronze bushings similar to these, but if I remember in 3/8" ID. I replaced all the plastic bushing with Oillite bronze, but some work is needed for a correct fit. The result is a much smoother clutch operation and less effort. Oilite Bushing.pdf
    1 point
  29. Back in the day we used the bronze Hurst shifter bushings. These are steel and a whole bunch more than you need. I thought I bought them in singles but that may have been just our local speed shop. Maybe there's something in McMaster-Carr I'm sure the bushings are standard inch measurements. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-3327302?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwxo6IBhBKEiwAXSYBs-X1OBdrXxADMe9lfhlNVYOj1WHElVKbI7AqHFrAZC0Ie9iJOy8ZIhoCqaEQAvD_BwE
    1 point
  30. Sorry, just looked at this, below is the rod: https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2488 and these I think are the bushings: But it looks like Don doesn't have them at the moment
    1 point
  31. We've been loosing a lot of these classic rock icons lately, sad stuff indeed. Most new music is complete garbage.
    1 point
  32. Hi Moose That is repairable ... an easy piece of work for me -- but may be fiddly and irritating for someone who's not done it before Its done in the same way I rebuild blown track on Printed Circuit Boards in the electronic systems I deal with at work. I don't disagree - its a painstaking, often irritating job. Clean and lap down the faces where it has blown raised areas with tiny diamond tip of a Dremel (small rotary tool) Clean any copper spatter out of the trenches Get slightly oversized diameter copper wire - remove the enamel and make a piece to fit precisely into your gap Place a tiny drop of nail varnish (Yes ....girlie nail varnish) in the gap (clear is best so you can see the substrate you're working on) With tweezers lay the piece into the gap and let the varnish harden (5mins) Solder each end delicately ("Sodder" in Amercanese ) Then flatten to the same surface height by removing excess copper/sodder with fine diamond dip with Dremel Fine polish with wet/dry emery paper voila - a new track
    1 point
  33. I finally bit the bullet and got new wheels and tires. I did a lot of research and changed my mind 100 times in the process. I ended up going with American Racing AR105M Series Black Torq Thrust M wheels, 18x10 (6 7/16BS) and 18x8 (4.5BS) for rear/front. For tires, I decided on Michelin Pilot S4S, 285/40ZR18 and 255/45ZR18. These tires are Thread 300, so they are a compromise between street and track. These were expensive but they were highly recommended and have the best reviews for high performance summer tires. The combo did not disappoint. I love the look of it and the traction is incredible. I can't break lose the tires in first gear that easily anymore. First gear is now useable! This shows how poor the BFG Radial T/A are for traction. The front combo fits like a glove. With my approximately 1" lower suspension it fits very well. It is pretty much the same backspacing I had with the Magnums and the tire width although it is 255 vs 245, the total tire width is about the same. The BFGs have some curvature at the wall that makes them much wider than the thread contact width is. The backspacing of the rear wheels (6 7/16) is about the max you want to go with. Maybe an extra 1/4" will be ok depending on tire. I still have about 3/4" between the tire and leaf spring. The rear tires stand about 5/8" clear from the fender. The old 295s BFG were flush. That said, I could fit 315s with these wheels if I wanted to, but unfortunately the widest they have in the 27" diameter camp are 285s. I may eventually add a 1/4" spacer to push the wheels further out. That's the max I can do while keeping 1/2" of the threads for the lug nut.
    1 point
  34. 2 posts are often cheaper and get the job done - but a waste of money? I Wildly disagree, they are not just for "storage". They allow a very good level of utility. I have a Titan 7000 lb, 4 post lift. I use it almost every day, for general maintenance on all our vehicles, including my daughters cars. I originally bought this model lift back in 2009 or 2010, but when I moved in 2015 it stayed with the house. A year later, bought the same model for the new place. It was around $2700 delivered. Mine has the casters plus i spent an extra $600 for a sliding hydraulic jack (so I could lift the front or rear off the deck plates for things like brake work). I've used it for transmission swaps on both my project cars, exhaust and suspension and brake work, and when I pull a motor, I park the car on the list so I can raise it for easy access underneath. No issues/complaints, I like it. Best tool I own.
    1 point
  35. Unfortunately it wasn't NOS. It was used and ugly, but was a real rev limiter, with the "right" date code range. I have a bead blast cabinet so cleaned it with glass beads and re-stamped it. I don't even know if it works because I haven't started the restoration yet, but figured I couldn't go very wrong for $350. Steve
    1 point
  36. Pulled out the gauges and went with the white faces. Also the KPH face. Even though I was around pre-metric the brain gets a bit foggy doing MPH/KPH calculations on the go. Also fitted all LEDs in the gauges. Much easier to read. David
    1 point
  37. Sawed off body parts seem to fit well into the side pockets, if you can stand the smell.
    1 point
  38. The name of my car varies depending on how it is running!
    1 point
  39. Damn, That sucks!! I would suggest Graphics Express in Florida. www.Graphics-Express.com 352-341-0077. They make good quality decals and what I used. I'm not sure who supplies NPD.
    1 point
  40. Hi I use 98 Octane, she goes well. Some photos below. Regards
    1 point
  41. I'm not sure that is an 71-73 wiper motor, but I know for a fact that the connector is not OEM! Here's what it's mate should look like:
    1 point
  42. Started the day taping the engine so it would receive a fresh coat. Bad luck, bought paint tape this week for this, and this supposed to be sharp tape turned out to not want to stick on the metal. It has an excellent adhesion on painted surfaces, ideal for many things but not painting my block... so pushed than one for next week. Plenty to do, so instead painted the front fender interior of the 73. Placed a thick souple primer that is ment to absorb little stones impacts a while back, but being white-ish, I needed bring an extra black layer first. So did that today... Pump wasn't finished yet, so while the fender was drying up, I've finished it. Another before/after reminder that bits of work can make a huge diff. Still have to id each bolts required from the pile of bolts that I have and prep them, but at least, I can mark the water pump as done! Busy with more items at same time so I can regroup spraying sessions and have less waste. One of the "in between big things" candidate, is the wiper motor. That's how the baby was spending its days on the car... (@midlife close your eyes!) It's clear that at some point in time, a crucial part of the wiper motor assembly got lost. Probably very hard to come by during the 80's or 90's, someone had to think hard and came up with a creative alternative for this missing bracket... Usually not available alone unless you'd buy a used wipermotor, was lucky and found the missing bracket on E-bay but was with shipping cost to Europe a pricy bit of pressed metal. (no global shipment program on) More lucky, as this forum hosts very nice people! @tony-muscle had a trip to Europe planned and offered to bring small and light parts with him (for me and other European members) and posted them from London, England his first stop. Thanks to Tony's kindness, I've received the bracket this week and it's been already handled. It joined end of the day my to be finished basket. The grommets, brass fittings, the rest of the rusty motor and of course the cowl vent are under surgery or about to be... More rusty things next time :)
    1 point
  43. Randy you were warned!! :) Its weekend again, its super nice weather, time for a PS pump restoration! yay! I wasn't planning do the PS pump anytime soon, but as just bought a small quantity of paint for the pulleys, as its not cheap these days and there is always lots of loss for small items, I thought I'd better spray them all together. and so I was back on another ugly rusty part... The pump is original, and after sitting 20 years, turns out it pumps nicely, so started by turning the pulley by hand and got most the oil out (thats what I thought at the time...) Behind the pump there are two large nuts, and it was obvious, they were not planning to help me. So I've used my vice as a wrench and got them loose. The first part of the bracket, some kind of protection for a connection comes loose too. Unlike other pulleys simply bolted on, for the PS pulley, you have to extract it. I have this kit for a while, and not a week ago, I was saying in a reply, I wasn't using it very often. This is the first time in few years. So if you are in the USA and can borrow one, just do it. Over here, I've in the past tried to find shops having this tool... none had one, and chances they would borrow were zero. So ordered this kit. It allows me to remove few other types, and I hope it will work on the alternator that i need restore too. We'll see. Like butter, the pulley came smoothly as I was cranking the pressure. On this kit, because its having two grooves on both side, at some point, the stud is too short and I needed come back first, add a spacer, and continue. Once the spacer is added, just one or two rotations extra on the tool and the pulley is finally separated from the pump. Then its time to get the pump casing out, as it needs to be handled as well... So the second big nut need go out, and on mine, there is still the original plate. Some say its because its never been serviced I'd say I don't know, may be it was serviced at some point and someone put it back. So I loose the 4 bolts on the front and start pull/move to get it out. A suction noise and wooosh! [many bad words even Trump would not dare to say] K, so now I know that when you think its empty, you actually are wrong. its not. After cleaning, I saw it was like 250 cl. (a quart of a quart??? ) Now I got a water proof shiny floor :) While at it, i'm going to service it, as I bought a kit for the 73, but turned out, the pump was simply having an air bubble to prime. I thought, while at it, i'm gonna use it on this pump. Because I no longer needed it for the 73, I've carefully bagged it and stored it in a box. Of course, its been few weeks since then and totally forgot which one :) One hour past, and finally found it, of course in the last possible candidate box. man, aging is horrible, I just past 50 and these little things tells me fun is about to begin :) Then it was time to remove first all the sticky greasy dirt, and gave each part a nice bath of detergent. The more I clean up, the more rust I discover... Used to handle rust these days, I've bathed in dissolver, brushed and brushed and at some point I thought: good enough. So washed these in clear water and let them dry in the hot sun. I saw on other parts which received the same treatment that the dissolver leaves a layer that closes the metal pores, ideal for primer. The same yellowish layer was there as well. Tho for a reason I ignore, the bolts get a flash rust layer within no time. Metal diff? So needed to brush them dry and thinner them once more. I know many would buy new bolts. I would too if sizes were metrics. Unfortunately good bolts are heavy and the USA far away... As these and most bolts on these car are of a pretty good quality. Its worth the effort and not really much work. After a final cleanup with thinner. It was primer time. As all drys super fast with this weather, so I've apply the black coat to the body, stick and bolts as well. Then it was time for the grey "natural" metallic coat that I've picked, and i could apply it onto the 2 other pulleys and the chain cover. Pulley looks fine, that "hard to find" tube too. and so does all the parts. Tomorrow they'll receive a clear coat, together with the fan that is waiting for a thin layer for a while. If i would not have lost time looking for that #$%^ kit, the clear coat would be hardening right now... Anyway, while all these parts were drying, I've continued on the pump internals. Did many picts at each steps so it might help someone do the same (and help me remember the order for reassembly) for now, I call it a day!
    1 point
  44. thx Kevin! It was a long weekend and weather was wonderful, so been busy... Unlike the awesome Tony-muscle's project, i'm not yet so far that I can show some bling bling, instead more, rust and dirt in this post! After i've let the pulleys in the rust dissolver for a few days, I got them much better, but not really usable as chromed items. If you compare with the previous post, its clear, this rust thingy will now be part of most old parts restorations. Especially because once its dry, it leave a layer that closes all pores of the metal and is also an ideal surface for a primer. so started prime them with a rich in zinc primer coating that I was also using for the 73. For the fun of it, I've left some of the chrome where it was perfect, only a bit in front. will see if the time spend on masking was worth it... I came back on the markings of the damper too. As I want something permanent, I sprayed rough lines going -10 to 30 btdc I need reduce them on their width and find some small letters stickers, so I can at least add at least a zero. to be continued. Weather was really great, water sanding, priming, water sanding and water sanding and priming.... awesome. more sanding needed do/fix that fender for ages and either weather was never good or never had the energy to start with it. Now its almost done. just need paint the inside, and prime one last thin primer layer and re-water sand ultra fine. On monday, my wife decided to hang the wash in garden... so long for spraying. No prob, I was out of paint anyway. So far never had the time to look really in details under the hood, as I was mostly busy on the 73 and handling the parts that were stored outside the car.. Before opening it, as I've mentioned before but never showed, here's the "tres 1980" perso on the hood, a remake of one of Boris Vallejo famous paintings. Some art critics may hate me later, but sorry, it will have to go! So next is start clean up / sort the engine bay and its remaining parts... in short really inspect the damage and repeat WTF a thousand times :) Forgot to take a pict once done, but basically the crap dustbin was full end of the day, with the most crappy electrics ever! @randy, beware! some picts might be disturbing to you! The pump and alternator, both will be restored and I'll post on these when i'll handle them. wtf! wtf! what this??? like a "de la Tourette" patient. :) wtf wtf wtf whole day. I have made many more picts I save for ref later on, I'll spare you the sadness. but these are self explanatory. At some point the engine bay started look better, and while I had to find out I miss a few more parts :( There were also good news, very good ones. Like the engine bay in general, very little damage or corrosion. In frame cavities, its dirty but not corroded. and even the very dirty cowl vent has almost no rust. I was expecting lots of welding in engine bay, aside a bit of rust on driver apron at the top, and a few holes made for the creative electrics. no welding. wheel sides, same, its all well preserved. The fenders, both sides however, will need serious massages... rust and quite a few dents. Ah well, just did the 73, so not scared to do these. One at a time! The hood will need lots of attention at the front, and will need poor something inside to remove/stop the rust and of course protect. More next time!
    1 point
  45. You could use a relay, with the hot wire coming directly from the battery (through a fuse) and an existing key on source to activate the relay. If you are running an original style alternator you could also use the stator terminal to activate the relay, which means the only time the lights are on is when the engine is actually running, not just during key on. Measure your stator output voltage and buy the relay that matches that activation voltage, with 20 amps, or so, at 12 volts relay contacts. You don't need nearly that many amps for just the lights, but I believe in reserve capacity.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...