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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/18/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
  2. My car came with factory 8 Track, but the player was DOA. I wanted to keep the look, but integrate Bluetooth. So I bought a board on eBay that can easily power the 4 speakers. I hogged out the guts of the 8 track and installed the board. Now I have my 8 Track look (complete with Pink Floyd DSOM ;) Best album from 1973.), but Bluetooth enabled stereo. Here's some photos of my install, and a short video. The phone can't handle the bass, but it sounds very clean and loud with NO EXTERNAL AMP. This board is the only thing providing the sound. Music is through the phone. I have Android, but this wo
    4 points
  3. My Christmas wish is for one thing and one thing only. A liberal dose of COMMON SENSE and get this Covid 19 virus under control and behind us for good. That way we can go play with our cars and enjoy what remaining years we have. None of us are getting any younger!! I don't want that time be cut shorter for ANY of us. All the best to all members and their families for the Holidays Geoff and my family..
    4 points
  4. Hey guys! So I tackled a project this morning and was taking some video explaining what I was doing to someone and they suggested I make a video! so here we go! ACP # FM-BI009 lens hope this helps you guys.
    3 points
  5. also for those curious the green is #100483318 Martin Senior Tech Base go to your local Napa and they can mix you up some!
    3 points
  6. Shiny new thing showed up from Quick Performance today....
    3 points
  7. One day, just for the hell of it, I looked at the Internet for any cool photos of our cars with girls, Models, if you will. Well, there's scads of late model cars with girls posing with them. There's scads of early model Mustangs with girls. But, I was suprised that there are few at best, of any '71-'73 Mustang photos with girls posted. Where is the love? I did find this one, which is cool, that I can share........
    3 points
  8. With the floor pans in - well, except for the seat risers - it's time to move on to the trunk. The tail light panel as very rusted along the bottom and the trunk floor was pretty much completely rusted out. I drilled out, cut, and ground out the plug welds, and finally got the entire floor removed. The spot welds along the inner wheel house were also drilled out, and the trunk floor flange separated from the wheel house. On the passenger side, the wheel house metal was pretty thin and in some areas tore out. I made a patch to repair the area, and welded it in.
    3 points
  9. Not to my car, but for it. Started on the foundation and floor for a workshop. My wife and I downsized this spring, smaller yard and house. My old workshop was 24'x30', new one got shrunk to 18'x24'. At least with the smaller yard I'll no longer have to store a lawn tractor in my workshop. Be good to get the Mustang out of a storage shed, not to mention having to pay rent to store it, I'd rather spend it on car parts.
    3 points
  10. Finally, the bloody quarter panel is in... This was not an easy job (for me) but I got it done and although it looks rough and will require a bit of filler I think it turned out OK. See for yourself:
    3 points
  11. Finished the prep and repairs on the rear body and epoxy primered it today. Had to make a patch for the big rust spot—I really like working on California metal.
    3 points
  12. Couldn’t help but give a little sneak peek
    3 points
  13. Well, I do wash my car. Living here in Los Angeles, the mild weather allows me to park outside 365 days a year. I'd love to park in the garage, but I've got two drag boats in there, and there's no room. So, being outside, it gets dusty when it's windy , it gets wet when it rains, it's in the sun when it's 100 degrees out . It is my only car for the last 30 years now and gets driven every day, to and from work, as well as serving as my tow vehicle for the boats. It is not "baby-ed", but I maintain her better than most. When I wash it, I use a bucket of Zip-Wax liquid car wash, after comple
    3 points
  14. Finally finished the restoration of the console and am ready to put it into the car. Ended up putting a reproduction bezel in the console as it was cheaper than having the original re-chromed. No broken areas on the console which made it nice. Once this is installed, next comes the dashboard and seats and the interior is complete. Then we move on to the undercarriage for the suspension and powertrain installation!
    2 points
  15. That is normal—paint manufacturers make toners with pigments. The toners are mixed together to make a color. Each paint manufacturer has different standards for their pigments and toners, so they don’t intermix. So to match a factory color, there may be 950 units of white, but then the last 50 units are varied quantities yellow, black, orange, blue and purple. Some of those are the tiniest of bits of the mix, like 5 units. Back in the ‘70’s and into the 80’s you could buy what was called a factory pack, which was a color mixed by the paint company in the exact color you wanted. The
    2 points
  16. Did someone say polyester? How about moustaches and sideburns? Photo is '73, I'm on the left, with my brother and sister. Eegads!
    2 points
  17. The blackout was sprayed on the rear underside of the hood on all 71-73 Mustangs. Ford felt that the open area created by the new cowl parking wipers was distracting and was treated to the blackout paint on all light colored cars.
    2 points
  18. I was looking through some old folders and found a picture of the R code. If you look closely you may be able to see that I was running drag slicks on it for street "enthusiastic" use. The car ran 12.70 @ 110 MPH. Another car that I wish I had back. Chuck car pictures-31.tif
    2 points
  19. A flat-rate estimate is a good start, it will provide you with a minimum. If you are considering to get your dollars worth, you should also know that the camshaft should always be degreed to verify timing, and you'll want to do this with the right head ( #1 cylinder exposed) off, to dial indicate #1 piston TDC. Flat rate won't include degreeing the cam. Installing the timing set "dot-to-dot" is throwing power away 75% of the time. I've found, that occasionally all of the variables ( cam gear dowel hole, crank gear keyway, accuracy of cam grinder's indexing, etc.) , can stack up against each o
    2 points
  20. JPEG for those who can't open a TIFF Nice ride! From the good ol' 1/4 mile days before this 1,000 foot nonsense.
    2 points
  21. Yes - crank degrees. If you are running 36 initial timing figure your max to be around 50 degrees give or take a few depending on the adjustable module make. Most are around 14 to 16 crank degrees total.
    2 points
  22. When you clean up all the window tracks, guides and wheels I think the Lucas Red N Tacky #2 is much better choice for either power windows or manual. Will be as smooth as glass. You can get in tubes, plastic tube and also aerosol. I use it all over the cars. https://lucasoil.com.au/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease
    2 points
  23. These bumpers are rigid by comparison to modern plastic bumper covers. If you hit it hard enough that it needs flex additive you have probably caused more damage than just the paint.
    2 points
  24. Wimbledon White is an off white. Hard to tell from pics, but it looks about right to me.
    2 points
  25. Got a bunch of the engine externals put back together; fuel line, spark plug wires, heater hoses and valves, alternator/regulator and wiring, engine bay wiring harnesses, etc. Unfortunately I am heading to warmer climes until April so nothing more is going to happen until then.
    2 points
  26. Geoff, as suggestive as some advertising can be, something as blatant as this would never have made it through the "Suits" at Ford. This one would have had as much chance of being approved in 1968 as it would have today. Zero! While in my teens and twenties' I did have a couple of A$$ H**e Bosses I could have nominated for this program!! Below is the actual '68 Ranchero advertisement.
    2 points
  27. Hello.I don't know if anybody here has ever seen this.I found this on the good old interweb.It's about taking Vette steering box parts and with a couple modifications you can put them into the Ford manual box for a 16:1 ratio.Which is the ratio that where in the 69/70 TA boxes.I did check out the part numbers and they are legit,actually you can by kits with all the parts in them to rebuild a Vette box.I also believe that KK would have figured this out and used it.This is the new steering box plan.
    2 points
  28. Had to drop an old set of headers off to the machine shop. The Hookers point inwards, and run into the stand for the dyno absorber. Gave him an ancient set that he can heat up and "adjust" to clear the stand. It should be mounted up on the dyno tomorrow and running by Saturday.
    2 points
  29. Shot I took in the garage today.
    2 points
  30. Shorts? Did someone mention shorts?
    2 points
  31. In case anyone is interested, I used Dorman's #603-506 tank.
    2 points
  32. Attached as a JPEG for ease of viewing.. ;)
    2 points
  33. Yep, but came in at only a bit over expected budget. Hopefully tomorrow I get the call that he's ready to run it.
    2 points
  34. I rebuilt my 45 year old Autolite alternator. Before, during and after photos below:
    2 points
  35. My 72 Cleveland has always made the rain sound in the pan at shut down. I like it as it lets you know the oil is getting up top and everywhere.
    2 points
  36. I love the button head stainless fasteners! I did the same throughout my interior. Slightly different twist on my console. I used a TKO 5 speed and a hand e-brake and two stainless cupholders. I also placed switches for the fog lamps and auxiliary fan along with a check engine light (needed for fuel injection and EEC-IV). I later trimmed out the e-brake by fabbing a stainless plate with button heads. Your console looks great. Rule #42 in the Book of Customizing. "Ignore passenger complaints".
    2 points
  37. Thx! Kinda hard to tell but got 3 more coats of clear over the blue. There is a flaw visible in first pic where I tried a repair in the color (and failed). Clear is "as sprayed".
    2 points
  38. Finally I got Sallys Mach 1 back. I hired a pissed off attorney, tow truck, 3 big guys (Gweedo's ;-) and demanded it back through the Sheriff. I gave the date and time we would be there and it was setting out by the road when I got there. The damn pussys didnt even come out to meet us, HuH. Was 7.5 months of bulls%%T and wasted time. Im out 5k because they didnt do there work. I will let the attorney handle that part of there crap. I got a picture (one side) of the strip and epoxy primer before I payed, guess what they did? They stripped and epoxy primed one half the car and thats the
    2 points
  39. With good stock style bushings in your struts, sway bars, control arms, idler arm, plus good ball joints, steering gear, pitman arm and rag joint you will be surprised how well your Mustang will corner. I've always enjoyed driving fast, whether straight line or corners, I got started with a go kart when I was about 15 years old, geared up top speed was 96 mph, geared down was a blast on the track. There's a nicely curved road that runs from Reno to Virginia City that I had driven many times and I gave it a go right after I got my Mustang in good running condition, with my wife holding do
    2 points
  40. I shudder to think what this build cost but, it is pretty amazing. Chuck
    2 points
  41. The green box on the back side of the fuse box (when disconnected from headlight harness plug) is captured on the center bolt by an "e" clip. You can remove the clip by pressing on the fuse box center bolt so that the e-clip clears the green box, then pry it out with a small screwdriver. Don't lose that clip! I PM'ed you with instructions for how to remove individual fuse clips once the green box is out.
    2 points
  42. Finished my door “Component speakers”
    2 points
  43. Hi.Well........It's all up to how crazy you would like to get.If it were me and I had a car like yours I would most certainly weld the seems of the frame rails from the torque box to the radiator support. Then the outer shock towers to the fender aprons to start.Also do the radiator support to the front fender aprons and the rear aprons to the fire wall.All of this will insure making the front box of the car way more rigid and a much better foundation to mount the suspension.I did make an amendment to my lower shock tower braces. The vertical outer flange where the top frame flange is spot wel
    2 points
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