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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/2021 in Posts

  1. Couple shots from this past weekend. Got a chance to really push the new suspension components and they performed exceptionally well.
    6 points
  2. Hello,I'm still at it.I'm currently working on the outer wheel house filler panels. I have the drivers side fit tight to the quarter and tacked in. Now to do the passenger side then to weld them in. I also made the front and rear flares even larger to better fit the larger wheels.The fronts are done and just have to be edged and I'm working on the rear.The rears also need to be edged.
    2 points
  3. I painted my hood today. After gaining confidence with the paint gun on the front bumper I figured what the hell, give it a go. Here it is with stencil in place, masked, sanded and tacked ready for paint: Well, moment of truth. After two coasts of single stage and thirty minutes to flash, I removed all the tape. Ta da! I'm pretty happy with the result. Not too shabby for "amateur hour". Going to let it bake overnight and then reinstall tomorrow. I'll wait a few days before putting on the Argent 351 RAM AIR decals.
    2 points
  4. Now we need a reminder app added to the forum.
    1 point
  5. Great pictures. I like it!
    1 point
  6. Plan is to start tearing into it this winter.
    1 point
  7. I wanted to post here since I have been digging and searching and cant seem to find a definate answer. Im going to be doing an AOD swap in my 72 and Im trying to find out if I need to buy a new flexplate. The car is a q code 351 C 4V and it currently has the C6. From my research, the AOD needs a 164 tooth flywheel and after counting, my current flexplate is also 164 tooth and the convertor seems to drop nicely into the holes. So based on what I can tell the original flexplate seems to work, but being completely honest, Im kinda a newb when it comes to auto's. Would just be nice if the spacer and flexplate are both good since it saves me money I can spend on other goodies.
    1 point
  8. Weekend! Because weather was on the cold and wet side (again), no cruising :( Instead, i've returned to the Saginaw gear thingy... Unbeleivable how many parts are pushed into that thing!!! No matter what, everything needs to go out and be cleaned before even think about how you're gonna put all these back together! At some point, totally high of the cleaning thinner. All the parts inspected, sorted, cleaned and some even plated. You end up with a nice puzzle and it's time to scratch you head about where to start to put it all back together! Thx to 2 manuals, the sheet that came with the rebuild kit and some videos of more recent but similar units on youtube, I've spend the afternoon putting it back together. I won't cover in details, but know that there are 24 bearing balls for the endless worm and these turned out to be different. Each having a different colour and they need come back in an alternated pattern. On the videos that I saw it was obvious, on this unit, much less, so make sure to clean them and their yellowish patina before reinstall and keep them in different containers. Also on none of the doc I had or saw there was anything about how to put them back except it was told it was a "biatchy" experience. Most doc was saying, use tool #whatever without showing it or use a fuel rubber line, plenty jelly etc... So what I did is install the worm with plenty good and piston without them, rotate the piston to have access to the holes, and with the worm on the farthest position, pushed them in, not forgetting the pattern while slowly turn the shaft. "Was it a dark or shiny ball I just pushed back in??" was a question returning every 2 or 3 balls! Dang it I get older! :D Eventually got them all back in, and the last remaining 8 need to be placed into the bridge (still in the alternated fashion), the bracket and screw secured and the piston can be turned back to the point where the teeth for the section shaft are visible and center. I told that before: using assembly goo made for transmission made a massive difference and became a third hand at times. I've used of course plenty ATF oil as well to make sure all was nicely lubricated. One trick I've learned from my AOD rebuild experience during the servicing of the governor nylon rings is to use a sewing needle to insert them which acting as a guide makes easy to go over the grooves you do not want to populate, because of course, as learned on the trans, they go into these and they do not want to get out easy... This unit has 4 and they come on top of o-rings. For the rear piston, inserting the big nylon ring is easy and can be done by hand, but for worm side, you have 3 grooves with each an o-ring and 3 nylons, lots of fun! The less you distord them the better and that's when it's time to push all these into the bore that you really appreciate the savings on the distortions using this little trick... The kit I've used came with all the necessary o-ring, snap rings, seals and on the exception of the cover o-ring one that comes as a nice metal plate that once folded will allow you to install the cover and remove it with ease (because during fine tuning you need remove the cover a couple of times (because you're getting old and you forgot to check the alignment of the teeth or forgot to add more oil before close). All were, at least using this kit, spot on regarding sizes and near perfect replicas of the originals. May the bushings show play/wear, you can order these separated or buy a more extended kit. Mine being in excellent condition, shaft with zero play and no visible damage, I saw no reason to go through their replacement. Once you have said a few bad words every now and then, cut your finger tip on the sharp bore inside and swore again because you used that bloody tip again while using thinner, let a ball fall on the ground because you can't hold it good using the wrong finger and spend 15 minutes locating it much further away than you'd thought possible. You end up with a not looking too bad Saginaw gear! :D Reinstalling it in the car with the restored hardware with the previously prepped pitman arm was a breeze and all connected nicely with the rest of the steering parts without a single bad word being said!! :D Tho that was for just a short moment as I found out that the coupler ordered by Rockauto wasn't the right one... So now need to contact them and see if they have the right one. And also noticed that the column is not only having a massive play, the coupler plate it's not moving up or down making the install of any coupler possible... something I did not remark a few months back as I took both coupler and gear out together. Soooo, without the right coupler and that stubborn column that will need inspection, my plan to roll the car to the street, turn it and start work on interior/floor rear is delayed... grumblegrrrr Oh well, that's part of the game! :D Oh and asked that already in a separated thread a while back but go no answer, so asking here again... I have bought classic tube stainless brake lines as they are so affordable it makes no sense to even think about making custom ones... But for some reasons, they do not come with holders. So restored for now the original ones that were really rusty so i can install. I would love to know where I could buy some new ones ( or at least the right name so I could et results of my searches). And also where to find the square nylon nuts that are pressed into the radiator support that holds the front healights brackets. Anyway, that's it for this update. Glad that the steering gear is done. It was more work than anticipated! To be continued...
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
    1 point
  11. Ford Mustang Mach-E production begins in China Bad enough to call it a Mustang but then to add the final insult and have them built in China. Shame on you Ford.
    0 points
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