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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/16/2021 in Posts

  1. With my '72 being green/green I had put in a black cruiser console thinking the black would tie in the black of the dash. After looking it it for a few months I found the black looked more foreign to the rest of the interior day by day. So I dyed the vinyl green, same green I used on much the interior trim pieces. Also put in USB, 12V port inside the console as well as the switch to control the on demand ram air, wanted to keep the interior clutter free of the more modern items where possible.
    3 points
  2. I just painted my 73..now time to put her back together
    3 points
  3. Here is a picture of the cleaned up B-pillar that Don at OMS sent me. It looks pretty good. Today, I got to fitting the B-pillar. I got the rocker all cleaned up, and removed the remnants of the outer wheelhouse covering the back end of the rocker exposing the inside. I found what looked like a turd inside, that turned out to be a huge chunk of body filler. I cleaned out the rocker, using my shop vac, and it appears to be almost completely rust free. I finished cleaning up the rocker and underside of the B-pillar. I fit the B-pillar in place and primed the undersi
    3 points
  4. Thanks, droptop. I was telling the wife that with all the work and upgrades going into this Mach 1, when it's done, it will be more like a Mach 2.5.
    2 points
  5. That is a nice looking repair job! To the OP, I've found that the SEM paints seem to be a good color match. It was anyway, for the white interior that I have. You may want to use their vinyl prep before painting.
    2 points
  6. With the B-pillar in place and secure, it's time to turn to to the inner and outer wheelhouses and quarter panel. With the quarter panel laid outside down, I put the outer wheelhouse in place, clamping it to the wheel well opening. It took some muscle to squeeze get it clamped together, but it came together nicely. I then did the same to the wheelhouses, clamping the inner and outer wheelhouse together. Once I was convinced that they would fit together, I got to work cutting out the inner wheel house. I drilled/ground the welds. I cut along the lower edge, just above the trunk floor
    2 points
  7. Before painting in the engine compartment, wrap aluminum foil around all of your wiring in the engine compartment. Remove after painting, you'll be glad you did!
    2 points
  8. I use my hoist around the shop for moving a lot more than just engines. (You ever try and move a cast iron powerglide?) So in a moment of clarity I decided that I would convert my hoist to air over hydraulic operation. It could not be easier, two bolts, it dropped in perfectly and it works great. I got the ram through Northern tool https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641740_200641740?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive > Jacks&utm_campaign=Strongway&utm_content=46200&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnqH7BRDdARIsACTSAdvNlwl_ElNoINEWoD6emy
    2 points
  9. That is normal—paint manufacturers make toners with pigments. The toners are mixed together to make a color. Each paint manufacturer has different standards for their pigments and toners, so they don’t intermix. So to match a factory color, there may be 950 units of white, but then the last 50 units are varied quantities yellow, black, orange, blue and purple. Some of those are the tiniest of bits of the mix, like 5 units. Back in the ‘70’s and into the 80’s you could buy what was called a factory pack, which was a color mixed by the paint company in the exact color you wanted. The
    2 points
  10. Interior is just about finished. Console and dash pad are in! Just new seat upholstery and door panels. Was hoping to use my original seat coverings, but can't find an unscathed front bottom seat without a seam split or tear, so new it is. Same on the door panels, can't see to find a nice straight, unscathed drivers door panel, or anyone that can repair the cracks in the arm rests (deluxe doors). So may have to buy new ones.
    1 point
  11. Good Work! Typically the points stick and fry the coils. Those original clocks are rare in working condition. Great job! mike
    1 point
  12. Hey guys! How cool is this, the green machine is taking shape! overall I’m really happy with the gaps all things considered. In fact I ended up not using the passenger repop fender because of how badly it lined up and went back to the original one and will just deal with the body work. That being said the only “non Original” part on the whole outer sheet metal is the very rear quarter panel section below the side marker light. Besides that this baby has all original sheet metal! with that being said gaps aren’t perfect but very passable. spent quite a bit of time on fenders and
    1 point
  13. Yeah, when it is slick, it's easy to lay some rubber down!
    1 point
  14. The Blue Thunder height to front of carb pad is 4-7/16" & rear of carb pad is 5-3/8".
    1 point
  15. Here's how Cardone says to flush it: RecommendedPowerSteeringFlushProcedure.pdf (rockauto.com)
    1 point
  16. Picked up a 71 vert parts car. Omg the rust but much of the vert unique parts are in pretty good shape plus it has the hood and fender rear trim pieces. Will be posting things on here as I begin tearing it down. Some parts I need (interior rear quarter trim panels, a pillar trim, ac ducting and the ws wiper mechanism that sits in the cowl). Grille seems to be unbroken.
    1 point
  17. Yup, you didn't end up "spoiling" his day.
    1 point
  18. Another way of thinking about it is, it is a wing like an aircraft, except upside down. Like a wing, the leading edge is thicker, therefore is to the front. Also like a wing, the top and bottom surfaces are different. On an aircraft wing the top surface is curved far more than the lower surface. This creates lift and keeps the aircraft aloft. We don't want "lift" we want downforce and that is why the wing is in effect upside down, so the "lift" is actually sucking the car down. Now to be fair, the spoiler is not really going to do much at normal speeds, so more for looks than function. I
    1 point
  19. They can't be worse than the originals. I have them, they are very brittle, and you need handle them as if they are some papyrus found in Tutankhamun tomb.:D
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. Thanks @secluff ! Having an early-ish '71, I always appreciate whenever anyone shares the historical significance, especially considering that after 50 years there are fewer and fewer of us that remember any of these details.
    1 point
  22. Thanks for the help KNN! I will take a look and see what I find out.
    1 point
  23. Ha! And, I thought we were the only ones who celebrate car birthdays with gifts
    1 point
  24. Thanks guys for your advice I guess I will do the best I can and within my abilities for the best outcome, I will continue to post as I progress Terry
    1 point
  25. Took a look and this was what I saw on it. BTW, I like this idea of being able to manually control the flaps. Question: Does this valve bleed off the vacuum in the line when de-energized? Answer: Yes, when deenergized.
    1 point
  26. I'm inclined to agree with 69 Rustang, or at least investigating that option. As for comments that you have to have the engine/trans is to get the gaps right - I disagree that the weight of the engine and/or trans will always affect the gaps. I've had my engine in and out, and the tranny in and out a couple times, and never had a single door or fender gap change. I've also have my car suspended on a 2-post lift, and also had one end or the other up in the air at different times for different things. The frame didn't twist like spaghetti , the body didn't sag and I could open and close my
    1 point
  27. For sure you are moving along. Glad you went to the Tech school to get in shape for all the welding. Great work you are doing your brother an honor building this car.
    1 point
  28. Wow, that’s pretty bad! Not sure where I would start with that.
    1 point
  29. You must have used regular grease, you need to use high performance brake grease lol. Mine is purple for added braking.
    1 point
  30. I put grease on my pads and the car didn't stop at all...
    1 point
  31. I'm sorry I wasn't trying to imply anything. I was just putting out a contributing factor. Another one could be the person at the scale. I hope you get it to where you are happy with it.
    1 point
  32. Very nice work. Great attention to detail.
    1 point
  33. That looks realy, really good! A big step forward
    1 point
  34. That looks a whole lot better than before! Good work!
    1 point
  35. Latest topics and Latest post kind of redundant. Also latest pix (and old ones) take up a lot of the right column. Lots of room there if organized differently.
    1 point
  36. Sold for $115,500. The Grabber Lime one was Thomas' car and a very nice one. There are a few of us on this forum that still have our 71 vert 429s. This is my red one.
    1 point
  37. No pics but I will be getting back to the bumpers hopefully this weekend and can take some pics. Tom
    1 point
  38. I've found that if you're looking for a cruiser (i.e. not road racing, autocross, etc.), the stock front disk/rear drum setup works just fine for the weight of the car. As was pointed out above, most of the braking is done up front so changing to rear disc (albeit a fun project) isn't going to make that much difference, at least not in dry conditions. What struck me was, "super soft as I need to really step on it to stop in reverse". You didn't say you hear grinding when your brake so I don't think just freshening up the pads/shoes will solve this. Assuming everything else is working
    1 point
  39. Well, unfortunately, not really much last year. With the pandemic and everything shut down, had a long lull where I wasn't able to make much progress. Working through things now and expect to make more progress this winter.
    1 point
  40. Got around to putting on my subframe connectors. Was hoping Santa would do it but I guess I was a bad boy so I had to do it myself. I know one thing for sure - I HATE welding laying on my back under the car! In my next life I will have a lift. Also welded in wideband o2 sensor bungs in the exhaust. Dry fit before prepping for welding. Welded and primed. Will spray with finish when the weather gets a little warmer.
    1 point
  41. Another step nicely completed! I plate most of my parts and indeed it's very frustrating not having found yet a cheapo yet quality way to plate plastics. Need re-dive into this, there must be a way to spray something conductive enough..
    1 point
  42. Wow, what a good looking engine! Is it especially sealed for sea or water purposes?
    1 point
  43. The blackout was sprayed on the rear underside of the hood on all 71-73 Mustangs. Ford felt that the open area created by the new cowl parking wipers was distracting and was treated to the blackout paint on all light colored cars.
    1 point
  44. Thanks @Don C! I definitely don't like buying parts I don't need (it takes away from the budget for parts I do need) The sector shaft isn't moving. The movement is definitely between the Pitman arm and the drag link. I'll take another look, but it sure sounds like Pitman arm needs replacing. Thanks again, Nick
    1 point
  45. With good stock style bushings in your struts, sway bars, control arms, idler arm, plus good ball joints, steering gear, pitman arm and rag joint you will be surprised how well your Mustang will corner. I've always enjoyed driving fast, whether straight line or corners, I got started with a go kart when I was about 15 years old, geared up top speed was 96 mph, geared down was a blast on the track. There's a nicely curved road that runs from Reno to Virginia City that I had driven many times and I gave it a go right after I got my Mustang in good running condition, with my wife holding do
    1 point
  46. Don't put poly bushings on the strut rods, they will eventually fracture. I suggest the higher durometer number rubber bushings from Global West. I can't speak to the use of "fancy" strut rods, I've never tried them. Chuck
    1 point
  47. OK gang, I took it out for a short drive after the unloaded bleeding the other day. I did about 20 cycles left to right with wheels off the ground and the engine off. I still have a little air to bleed as there is some slight groaning from the steering. The steering felt nice and the assist felt great. So what was wrong with mine? 1) A retaining ring was not seated properly that affected the rotating valve. 2) A defective High Pressure hose that failed at the crimp. Now the bad retaining ring could have caused a detrimental pressure situation that taxed the hose,
    1 point
  48. I didn't know this page existed so I copy/pasted it from the 351Cleveland.net site at this address: http://351cleveland.wetpaint.com/page/The+Amazing+351C+4V Here's the copy/paste... Enjoy! ************************************************** The Amazing 351C 4V The following are excerpts from a thread on the forum that ran from May 13-29th 2009 on the 351Cleveland.net forum. I excerpted George Pence's posts because I believed they were well thought out and brought an insight as to the design of the 351C engine that had not really been explained anywhere before. Good wor
    1 point
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