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Then...then....then.... BooooM! ! !...then crack open a beer like a real man

In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined

I wondered why we don't see Rocketfoot much sometimes ... now we know

Not so much a horror story but they did try to swap parts with me. I was building a flathead V-8 and had a crank that was in great shape and never been ground so .010" grind was all that was needed. I have installed the bearings and measured them and had written down the diameters to grind each journal. I always stamp my initials on any parts I leave anywhere. When I went to pick up the crank they bring out a crank and it has been cut .020" or .030" and is not my crank. I demand mine and they say that is the one I dropped off. We were in the shop and I went to the grind area and pointed to a crank and said that is mine. They said not. I told them that if my initials were stamped on the second crank throw I was taking it. I picked it up and there was D.F.F. stamped so I walked out and never went back there. Always mark your parts in some way to identify them. Grind, etch, stamp but mark them and with today's digital photos take pictures. I have never taken many things for others to work on I have always done most of my work. Anyone that does not get a specific written, signed and even notarized contract is asking for issues. If they will not do that you need to go somewhere else.

Past weekend was dry, warm... Sooooo: barbecue time!! All the new parts that I've received over past months were either not coated, simply oiled or covered with some poor paint. None had of course the kind of finish I had in mind for them. So spend a good part of my saturday cleaning & degreasing them and mask/tape all the parts I could not remove, rubbers, threads etc.. Then just like the restored parts, they did receive a primer, their respective colors and a nice thick finish coat. Sunday was like xmas, lots to unwrap and it was even time to put some stuffs together, install nipples etc... Reassembled the spindles done last weeks with ther hardware plated last year. Installed all back together after a good cleaning and copper greasing of each thread. Was lots of work to get there, zinc plating them was not the easiest thing to do. But now, boy do they not look like a million??! :D Yes these are the same!! :D I know btw I need some wires for their nuts, Anyone have some info on how it should be done the right way? Never done that before, but really would love to have them "twisted" the right secure way. I will buy some SS wire for that asap. Then it was time to put the top arms together... 50 years old and looking goooood :D Then it was time to put all these babies together back into their original nest that is now making a nice contrast with its semi gloss black. Nothing torqued to specs yet until all is on.. Also gave love to the koni's that were plated last year and gave them the car body color (no red), that will look nice into the light grey coils that were done last week... All with all, it was nice to finally see all the work started last novembre come together! The other side fx is that I could get rid of many boxes and create some welcome space. One regret is that the long part that connects both sides (rod assembly, the drag link I think is the name) is still at a friend's place where it needs to go under press to correct the bow into it created at some point when someone jacked up the car with it... No biggy tho, as once I will have the steering box revised, i will need to paint it as well, so will do both at the same time. to be continued...

I installed this clip just as directed by Tim- pushing into the hole and with pliers and squeezing the tabs together. Two photos below. From underneath the car and from the footwell:

Well, it's been close to 3 months since I've posted an update, but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything. I've gotten the instrument cluster back together with LED bulbs installed. I got the steering column painted and reassembled, but the turn signal switch is binding, so I'll have to go back through it, one more time. I got the front and rear seats reupholstered with new foam and seat covers from TMI. Most of the wrinkles seen in the picture were worked out, and overall, the seats look pretty good. I also cut open the top of the new fuel tank and installed the new Tanks, Inc. electric fuel pump. I pretty much did what Autoedit did in the YouTube video, except I used a body saw instead of a hole saw, and oriented the fuel reservoir away from the sending unit to keep it from interfering, but otherwise did pretty much the same. A little work with the hammer and dolly got the lip flattened out and lining up with the sealing ring pretty well. Once the steel retaining ring is placed on the inside edge of the hole and the screws tightened down, it straightens the edge up even better. The retaining ring is installed and the screws inserted to secure it. The Viton washers were removed so that they would not get damaged when the retaining ring was tacked into the opening. After tack welding between each of the screw hole locations, the welds were ground down to make the top flush. Then the tank was cleaned with WD-40 and a magnet, plus wiping it out with some paper towels, and then more WD-40. It was a new tank, but I had gotten from a guy on Facebook marketplace, and there was a little but of crud inside it. It wasn't rust, but I'm not sure what it was. It took a little bit, but I was able to get the tank cleaned out really well. Then, it was time for the gasket sealer, top, and all those screws. Overall, the tank came out really well, and I'm pleased with it. Also, I've kept busy, building a motor for the Rickster. With all the Covid stuff going on, it took a while to get the cylinder heads shipped, but I finally got everything I needed. I had to hit up Don at Ohio Mustang Supply a few times for brackets, etc. since some were missing. I got the Power steering pump and brackets from him. It's a 50 year old pump of unknown history, so I went ahead and rebuilt it. Twice. When they say try not to let the spider come apart, there is a reason for that. My first attempt at reassembly, I got it wrong, and after reinstalling the pump discovered it wouldn't turn very easily. I pulled it all apart, went back through it, and found I had the slippers upside down. DOH!!! After the second or third time putting the spider together, I did develop a feel for it, and it's not difficult, but the first time or two, it can be pretty frustrating. Once reassembled, I double checked and it turned easily, and after installation on the motor, it only required 4 in-lbs of force to turn the pulley, well, within the factory spec of 2-15 in-lbs. Tomorrow, I'll post about the engine build but that's enough for now. Except to say, that the paint shop says the Rickster is very close to done, and should be back in my garage in the next week or so. WooHoo!!! Then the real fun begins - reassembly.

Well, the forums are full of activity again… 71 Mustangs made 50th anniversary this year … mine turned 50 in May this year, as did so many others … and yes… I made him a cake and we celebrated. fordismyboss has is big block out in public…. Someone, please all the authorities. RIBS, has found holes. I think it’s so people you’ve locked in the trunk… to dispose of later, can breathe. bdennis has gone for amber turn signals … we know Aussies are just a bunch of flashers :-p tony-muscle has to have his nuts tightened because he’s lost his bearings…. I’m sure hot girls are involved in this somewhere. Galucha Is fiddling with his suspension … oh NO ! ! ! ! please don’t turn it into a low rider. Stewart, Has come in as new member from Aus (…do you come from a land down-under?) and brought ”funnel web spiders” with him … just don’t get into his car without a full security sweep first. 73inNH Is trying to get his “rod” and his “bar” into place…. Chat to your girlfriend, she’ll know just how to do that :-p Marty Report postings are up – check out the history… I cant wait for the day when one comes back with “previous owner” Jay Leno. As a passing note…one of the best gentlemen in the business… Dusty Hill of ZZ Top passed away this week. But look on the bright side folks – he lived a full life giving us fantastic showmanship and huge moonshine fuelled rock. View the full article

The base configuration has a 3 pin door jamb switch on the driver's side and a 2 pin on the passenger side. However, with the convenience harness as an option, the passenger side door jamb connector plugs into the convenience harness pigtail and a 3 pin actually goes to the door jamb to allow the seat back release to occur when the passenger door opens. The courtesy lights work when either the driver or passenger side doors open allowing current to flow from the green/yellow wire at the door jamb to the black/blue wires, which actually light the lamps.

Cool AMX... NOW back to our regularly scheduled programming... LOL!!

Installed a USB charger for the cigarette lighter socket with one of these, no change to the socket and this unit fits tight. Pulled out the threaded bit on the lighter knob and epoxied in a cut down male USB plug. Had to make sure all wires were removed to prevent any short circuit; It's only fractionally longer that the original lighter. Looks ok in place and also has an "on" light on the usb adapter. During my re-wire I changed the lighter to switched power so no chance of being left on.

I had taken the engine to the machine shop back in early December. They had said it would take about 2 weeks, which turned into closer to 6 weeks. The owner, I found out, was winding down, moving into retirement, and the shop seemed a bit disorganized, but they had gotten decent reviews. Once I got the motor home, I got it on the engine stand, sprayed it with a generous coating of WD-40, and bagged it. Every couple weeks, I would pull the bag off, spray it with more WD-40, and recover it. After the Rickster went off to paint, it was time to get to work on the motor. I cleaned it, checked it, and then cleaned it again. I checked the crankshaft main bearing clearances with plastigage and all were in spec. I checked the rod bearing clearances with plastigage, as well, and all were right on the money. Great!!! Pistons and rings were installed and everything seemed normal enough. Cam installation was straightforward. I installed a Lunati roller cam and lifters. I got the head gaskets and Trickflow cylinder heads bolted on and torqued. The intake manifold was next and that is where things started going sideways. The intake bolts on the Cleveland, of course, are angled, and the intake must be matched to the head quite precisely. I was having no luck getting them to line up. I determined that the manifold was sitting to high. The block had been decked, but only enough to square it. The machinist couldn't remember exactly how much he had taken off, which I found a little concering. Hmmm. I took the intake manifold to the shop, and they informed me that the Edelbrock Performer 2V intake manifold had been previously milled. We decided that they should take .020 to .030 off each side and see where it sat. In the end, they took off .027 off each side, which was needed to true up one side that was out of square. Great. The intake manifold now sits where it need so the gaskets will seal it properly. Before buttoning it all up, though, I measured for new pushrods, which turned out to be 8.100. Got them ordered figuring it would take the normal 2 days to get here. Eight days later, they arrived, having traveled across much of the USA. Pushrods installed, roller rockers installed and lash set, and finally, the valve cover gaskets can go on. But wait, the rollers are keeping the stock valve covers that I had thoroughly cleaned, removed dents, and painted. The right side actually fit, but the driver side was definitely interfering. New valve covers were ordered and arrived a few days later. I got them intalled, and they fit fine, but seem kind of tall. I am going to use the FAST EZ EFI system, because I have it from an older project that stalled out a few years back. I put the throttle body on the intake and set the ram air cleaner box on it, only to find that it fouled on the valve covers. Soooo, I ordered a 1/2" spacer and now have a maybe 1/4" clearance. With all that sorted, I got the distributor which had a busted vacuum advance nipple, so I got a new vacuum advance for it, I got the tiny clip removed and then the first screw. Both screws were rusty, but the first one came out okay, taking my time and using penetrating oil and heat. The second screw decided to just wring off about halfway down the hole. I tried to drill it out, but the drill bit broke off, so I have been fighting the thing fixed for 6 or 7 weeks now. I took it to a local machine shop, but they were too backed up to help me out. They did tell me, though, that the machine shop had done the machine work on the block had had a lot of problems with quality control lately, and had ruined a few blocks and cylinder heads. I felt okay about the crank and rod bearing clearances, but hadn't checked the bores. Soooo, off comes the intake, valve cover, rockers and pushrods, cylinder heads, etc. I got out the dial bore gauge and micrometer, and measured each bore at the bottom, just above the piston, middle of the run and at the top of the bore, front to back, and side to side. Six measurements on each cylinder. Each cylinder was pretty uniform, with the 48 measurements ranging from 4.03035 to 4.03102. Most of the cylinders were within about .00030 to .00040, although some of that can be just variation inherent in measuring the diameter of a cylinder. I am satisfied, though, that they didn't screw it up, so I got new intake manifold gaskets, and got the motor put back together, once again. Back to the distributor, I finally found a machine shop that said they might be about to repair it, so I'm hoping that in the next few days, I'll get good news from them. Then I can get the distributor rebuilt, and installed. I did look into a new Pertronix billet distributor, but it didn't fit under the air box. I just found that they do make shorter Pertronix distributors, but at this point, I'm waiting for the machine shop. So that is my engine building saga. Thanks to Don at Ohio Mustang for helping me out with AC and power steering brackets. It's coming together, slowly, but surely. Hopefully, the Rickster will be back soon, and we can get that motor filling the engine bay.

My intention this weekend was to dig my back window out of my closet and get it ready for install. Instead I did the throttle cable and charcoal canister .

Motor came apart today. He found one bad rod bearing, said the crank measured out fine and will just get polished up. Out of an abundance of caution, he's disassembling the engine, performing a complete inspection and will clean out all the oil passages. He's a bit baffled by the bearing failure, but agrees it must have happened on the dyno. Told him that I had to adjust #3 intake, even though he had run through the valves several times, so a thorough inspection of the cam in lifters is also in order. If there is even the least bit of suspicion about them, they'll be replaced.

Hi.it's been a little while. A couple things.I did figure out how to keep the coil springs in the front of the car.I am currently working on those parts and of course will post pics when I am done. I took a little break from the car because the spring thing was driving me nuts. I'm one of those people that will work till the point of mental exhaustion to figure out a solution to a problem.But in the two weeks that I really didn't touch the car. I bought a 73 AMX,360, 4speed, Go Pack car,that's eventually going to become the street car my Mach1 was going to be.And while messing with the AMX I got over the mental block I had with the Mustang.So when I get the coil spring maker not falling outters installed I will be moving on to the wheel flares.So here is the AMX.I don't think anybody on here will mind one little ole pic of an AMC....................oh ya...........NO Trans Am mods to the AMX ,I promise.

If you know a veterinarian you might want to borrow a pair of their shoulder length rubber gloves and wear a rain coat and face shield. No matter how long you let it set and drip dry you'll still get rained on by fluid when you start removing screws and nuts on the valve body.

Took him to a show. He got surrounded by a whole bunch of farting little Brit cars and Euro-boxes

Well, today I moved to the other end of the powertrain. I removed the factory 2.75 one-wheeler-peeler and installed a new 3.81 Eaton Truetrac rear end that I purchased from Quick Performance. First I pulled the axles. Here's what the diff looks like after 48 years. I spent more time removing the old gasket that all the rest of the job combined! Since the new gasket ran me $20!!, I figured it deserved a photo of it's own: And now the finished install. Damn was it heavy. Heavier than the Tremec transmission. Tomorrow I plan to tackle the rear brakes, install new axle seals, and put the rear end back together so I can lower the car and measure for the new driveshaft.

9.00 on ebay eBay item number: 133658718270 or pm me

Has anyone changed the box without removing the header? I really don't want to get into removing parts that are not required to be removed. Car is a 71 Mach 1 with 351C with a TKO 600 hydraulic clutch setup, so no zbar to deal with.

Convenience Group dash harness.

I bled the brakes. I used the vacuum method. All in all I fed about a quart of DOT 3 into the system. I will use the two person pedal method to confirm all the air is out before driving the car. Now with brakes bled and the heater core replaced, I put the strut braces back in place, ran new vacuum hoses and finished up the engine bay. Ha! I've been looking all over for my missing deep 11/16" socket, and after posting up this photo I notice it is sitting on the washer fluid bottle. Mystery solved!

Awesome pic!

You guys are just going to have to get used to me mentioning the AMX every once in a while,it's part of the family....LOL...................AND NOW,back to our regularly scheduled program.I've been working on this problem for about a month...ish.And yes while messing with the AMX it did hit me,and I knew what I was going to do.The stock suspension sits on the frame at full droop,so why not build mounts the bolt to the car,just up higher in the chassis to make up for the shorter spring.So here we are.The chassis brackets are short enough to allow the spring to to removed and installed. Then bolt on the stop brackets and done. They hold tension on the spring so it can't rotate in the seat or fall out of the car.Everything is made of 1/8'',with 5/16'' grade 8 fine thread bolts.I left my self enough material to install 2 more bolts per side and upgrade them to 3/8th if I wanted to.There is no deflection in the mounts and it works like it should and looks like it belongs on the car.

I would recommend Oilite Bronze bushings similar to these, but if I remember in 3/8" ID. I replaced all the plastic bushing with Oillite bronze, but some work is needed for a correct fit. The result is a much smoother clutch operation and less effort. Oilite Bushing.pdf

Back in the day we used the bronze Hurst shifter bushings. These are steel and a whole bunch more than you need. I thought I bought them in singles but that may have been just our local speed shop. Maybe there's something in McMaster-Carr I'm sure the bushings are standard inch measurements. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-3327302?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwxo6IBhBKEiwAXSYBs-X1OBdrXxADMe9lfhlNVYOj1WHElVKbI7AqHFrAZC0Ie9iJOy8ZIhoCqaEQAvD_BwE

On the radio back from my garage I heard about the passing of ZZ Top's bassist Dusty Hill today, very sad news. Been my favorite band for over 30 years, seem 'm live 3 times and got the ZZ hangin' off my Mustang's keys. I do believe they hold the record for the band with longest original members, that timer has now stopped... Sad.

https://variety.com/2019/film/reviews/zz-top-that-little-ol-band-from-texas-review-billy-gibbons-dusty-hill-1203305246/

Ok both the watts bar and 3rd link bar are bolted to the frame rails now. The watts bar slid over the frame rails no problem, but I did have some difficulty getting the 3rd link bar fully seated - it was about 1/8" too narrow as you can see from the first pic. Emailed Shaun at StreetorTrack and he said that's typical as some cars will have wider or narrower set frame rails than others, and to use a dead blow hammer to get it lined up. I will say the step bolts they gave you use to bolt everything up are pretty intuitive. They have you drill a 1/2" hole on the outboard side of your frame rails, and a 3/8" hole on the inboard side, so that the step bolt can effectively clamp both sides of the frame rails. Let's you torque them on pretty tight without worrying about warping anything.

We've been loosing a lot of these classic rock icons lately, sad stuff indeed. Most new music is complete garbage.

Those holes are for the 73 only rear bumper filler panel, and are in all the available 71-73 repop taillight panels. Why the stamping company put them in considering it's a 1 year thing, is beyond me. Probably comes down to they were given a D3ZZ part to work from and didn't know any better. Way easier to make holes as needed, than to weld them shut.

Three plants built Mustangs - San Jose - R, Metuchen - T and Dearborn - F. San Jose stopped Mustang production prior to the 71 model year. Metuchen stopped Mustang production on Dec 23, 1970 (my Mach was built 12/22/70) and Dearborn was the sole Mustang plant from then until the end of 73 model year production. Dearborn did build Cougars concurrently with Mustangs, as noted with the 5xxxxx unit numbers. Lorain, Ohio - H, and Atlanta, GA - A, built the Torino & Montego in 71, so what one may think to be and "F" might actually be an "H".

F is Dearborn. Torinos and Thunderbirds also had the 429 in 1971. They were called Thunderjet in the Thunderbirds.

Now I wonder why I like that colour

OK, some photos and a few words to go with them... And as always, when you peel a layer back you find more to do... The dash is back in after major rewiring and tidying up, found it was a Chevy Nova steering column so have new AC Delco turn signal unit and NOS ignition barrel and key and new leather steering wheel - and have fabricated a bracket to use a standard mustang ignition switch. NOS door and trunk barrels and keys. New carpet on order, interior retrimmed, heat and sound proofing installed on the floor, 15" Magnum 500s ordered for a more period look. New front driving lights, converted to chrome bumper and refitted the front air dam. 'Adjusted' the T bar shifter to align correctly with the C6 shift range so D on the shifter matches D on the transmission. Am changing the 3 point seat belts to lap sash only and the 3rd point is too low and it'll be broken shoulder material in a crash. New flexible PCB on the back of the dash cluster and upgraded to LED backlighting (much better) - cleaned out the dials to get rid of the dust on the inside! Plus lots of little things... On the conversion, the main wiring loom still comes through the firewall on the LHS - it's now a bulge under the passenger's toes! The heater is disconnected and all the vacuum pipes have rotted away and the air conditioner unit is fitted on the LHS but not connected - I'd say when the conversion and engine transplant happened it all went... The car used to live in northern Queensland which is a tropical environment so not much call for a heater but I'd have thought AC would have been needed. Now thinking about moving the coil pack back onto the inner guard so I can fit a AC compressor up high on the engine where they seem to be typcially fitted - there's spare pulley grooves and I can fit a condenser in front of the radiator - so we'll see...

No "ex-spurt", but yes, there are different ratios. A used PS box will almost certainly need a rebuild which is doable if you have the tools and the mechanical background to do it. There have been several threads on this by different members, Bentwork and myself included. Check the tag ID on your PS box. If it's a V/R, I'd look at rebuilding it first. These are heavy and shipping will be expensive. A variable ratio SPA-T or V (71-73) or SPA-AD or AF (after 1/2/73). V/R boxes are 16:1 to 13:1 is what you'd be looking for imo. Another maybe better alternative is to buy an upgraded box with 12.7:1 fast ratio. There are a few companies that offer these. Others can likely suggest the best one. While at it, definitely look at replacing the idler arm bushing or entire idler arm as well as the pitman arm. Other worn parts should be replaced at the same time if it were me. Ask for brand suggestions like Moog or Rare Parts. No cheapo Chinese stuff. More later if you need assistance.

David, your last comment "Try tightening your header bolts again." made me smile. Some years ago, my Alfa GTV6 developed this quite loud top end metallic knock but only just when you put your foot down and at idle. With the old stick to the ear, sounded like #1 cylinder was the culprit and definitely somewhere in the top end. I took off the tappet cover, clearances all OK. Compression check also OK. Engine had done about 40K since a full rebuild. I didn’t want to pull the heads off (head gaskets not cheap) without first checking from below, so took a day to pull the engine out and onto the engine stand. Turned it upside down and pulled off the lower sump pan. Inside the motor looked as new, not a mark on the bore, big end bearing, etc. gudgeon pin was nice and tight, so I’m thinking it must be in the top end. Turned the engine back upright to start pulling it apart and only then noticed the 2 nuts from the #1 extractor/header flange had come off the studs. I gave the pipe a bump with my hand and there’s that metallic knock. The knock was the front flange banging on the head. Looking down at the motor in the engine bay you can’t actually see the nuts on the exhaust studs, also it didn’t sound like a typical blown exhaust gasket. So, three days to replace 2 manifold nuts and a few more "names" for the car.

This just so happened to arrive in the mailbox today….Looks like my car has a twin somewhere out there! I hope it’s still out there galloping!

I removed the heater/AC box and replaced the heater core. As it turns out the job was pretty straight forward and not as difficult as I had anticipated from my research. I followed the steps in the Ford Shop Manual. First I removed the carpet. I am installing new carpet anyway and figured I'd need every inch of room to drop the box. The floor was in real good shape. Next I laid out a sheet of craft paper on a table. Not knowing what all parts I would be removing I labeled everything on the table as I removed things. If I am not going to be immediately reassembling something I am careful to bag and label, but if I know I am immediately putting everything back together I find the table labeling method to be more convenient. The box was in real good shape. No internal signs of leakage. No critter nests. No cracks or chips. Of particular note. I did not have to remove the dash. (the Ford manuals confirm this). By removing the footwell side trim and the carpet and padding I had just enough room to pull the box right and rotate it out from under the dash. Other than removing the glove box and door no other disassembly was necessary. Here's a photo of the box prior to disassembly. And here it is torn down. I did buy a seal kit and replaced all the foam when I put the box back together. I also spent the extra $15 to buy a non-aluminum heater core. I have not had good luck with aluminum cores as they do not appear to hold up over time. I did check the new core for leaks (as suggested by David w Carolina Mountain Mustangs) prior to installation. I removed the A/C evaporator since it is no longer needed. Since moving to North Idaho from Florida I find there is really no need for air conditioning and I have removed the compressor and other A/C equipment from the engine bay to give me more room. The box went back in even easier than it came out. I'd say the whole job start to finish took about four leisurely hours. Having done the job once now I could probably do it again in about half the time. All in all not the horror story I was anticipating.

Hi Moose That is repairable ... an easy piece of work for me -- but may be fiddly and irritating for someone who's not done it before Its done in the same way I rebuild blown track on Printed Circuit Boards in the electronic systems I deal with at work. I don't disagree - its a painstaking, often irritating job. Clean and lap down the faces where it has blown raised areas with tiny diamond tip of a Dremel (small rotary tool) Clean any copper spatter out of the trenches Get slightly oversized diameter copper wire - remove the enamel and make a piece to fit precisely into your gap Place a tiny drop of nail varnish (Yes ....girlie nail varnish) in the gap (clear is best so you can see the substrate you're working on) With tweezers lay the piece into the gap and let the varnish harden (5mins) Solder each end delicately ("Sodder" in Amercanese ) Then flatten to the same surface height by removing excess copper/sodder with fine diamond dip with Dremel Fine polish with wet/dry emery paper voila - a new track

More progress. Pulled rearend. Removed pumpkin. Waiting on new yoke (upgraded to 1350 u-joint).

2 posts are often cheaper and get the job done - but a waste of money? I Wildly disagree, they are not just for "storage". They allow a very good level of utility. I have a Titan 7000 lb, 4 post lift. I use it almost every day, for general maintenance on all our vehicles, including my daughters cars. I originally bought this model lift back in 2009 or 2010, but when I moved in 2015 it stayed with the house. A year later, bought the same model for the new place. It was around $2700 delivered. Mine has the casters plus i spent an extra $600 for a sliding hydraulic jack (so I could lift the front or rear off the deck plates for things like brake work). I've used it for transmission swaps on both my project cars, exhaust and suspension and brake work, and when I pull a motor, I park the car on the list so I can raise it for easy access underneath. No issues/complaints, I like it. Best tool I own.

Unfortunately it wasn't NOS. It was used and ugly, but was a real rev limiter, with the "right" date code range. I have a bead blast cabinet so cleaned it with glass beads and re-stamped it. I don't even know if it works because I haven't started the restoration yet, but figured I couldn't go very wrong for $350. Steve

Sawed off body parts seem to fit well into the side pockets, if you can stand the smell.

One gripe only !........ the placement of the fusebox What asshat decided that sticking it under the dash, right around the corner at the right hand side tucked up close to the steering column "in the dark", was a good idea? How deranged do you need to be? Why do we have to stand on our heads with a flashlight ? Not only did they mount it in the most galactically stupid place, but they then did mixed condition on physical size and orientation of fuses to make it even more of an encryption When you need to replace/check a fuse it's nice to see which one - the value - the size - then when replacing, to be able to do it easily, see that it locates good and not have to be a contortionist to get in there. WTF was the designer high on? ..Absinthe, mushrooms..........sniffing glue? ........WHAT ?!!!

Hi I use 98 Octane, she goes well. Some photos below. Regards

LOL Thanks for the laugh. If I send you a dollar will you throw it away?