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  1. Me and a couple of guys from work on Friday.
    11 points
  2. I finally bit the bullet and got new wheels and tires. I did a lot of research and changed my mind 100 times in the process. I ended up going with American Racing AR105M Series Black Torq Thrust M wheels, 18x10 (6 7/16BS) and 18x8 (4.5BS) for rear/front. For tires, I decided on Michelin Pilot S4S, 285/40ZR18 and 255/45ZR18. These tires are Thread 300, so they are a compromise between street and track. These were expensive but they were highly recommended and have the best reviews for high performance summer tires. The combo did not disappoint. I love the look of it and the traction is incredible. I can't break lose the tires in first gear that easily anymore. First gear is now useable! This shows how poor the BFG Radial T/A are for traction. The front combo fits like a glove. With my approximately 1" lower suspension it fits very well. It is pretty much the same backspacing I had with the Magnums and the tire width although it is 255 vs 245, the total tire width is about the same. The BFGs have some curvature at the wall that makes them much wider than the thread contact width is. The backspacing of the rear wheels (6 7/16) is about the max you want to go with. Maybe an extra 1/4" will be ok depending on tire. I still have about 3/4" between the tire and leaf spring. The rear tires stand about 5/8" clear from the fender. The old 295s BFG were flush. That said, I could fit 315s with these wheels if I wanted to, but unfortunately the widest they have in the 27" diameter camp are 285s. I may eventually add a 1/4" spacer to push the wheels further out. That's the max I can do while keeping 1/2" of the threads for the lug nut.
    8 points
  3. The MOM held a show just for Mach 1 and Boss Mustangs. Of course most there were new Boss mustangs so did not think there was much hope. It was a popular vote show so no judging. There was lots of visitors today and had lots of interest in my car. There was also a pretty nice 1972 Mach 1 Gold Glow that he had in high school. He had not been to a show in 15 years but came out today. When the votes were all in he won Second place and I won first which was a shock. I got nice plaque and one years membership to the MOM for free. At 2:00 it was 94 deg. in Concord, N.C. and I had left home a little before 6:30 that morning about 123 miles down there. No AC of course in the old beater truck towing the 20' enclosed trailer and the Mach 1. The new gal friend went with and sat there and spent time in the MOM looking at the cars. She worked in Ford Prototype for 17 years. Was 97 deg, when in Shelby and had to stop for a milk shake. Got home and started pouring rain and was 74 deg. here in the mountains. A few pics they are very slow to download for some reason will add more later. For those that do not know. I live in North Carolina but I put the Michigan plates on the car for a good reason. They are M plates. The third digit is and M that designates a Manufacture's plate used to put on prototypes to take out and drive on the street. A Ford engineer got them when the expired and I got off of Ebay this year. Got two sets. The new gal friend noticed right off and said " An M plate cool". The old truck has 211,000 miles now and still ticking. I did invite several to join the group not in the group.
    8 points
  4. Well a while ago, I started the hunt for new seats for the Mach 1. Mine are in good shape, but Id like to keep them that way and also wanted something a little more supportive with some bolstering. I had looked at some aftermarket options, but didnt think they fit the look of the car. Thats when I managed to find a set of Recaros out of a Fox body. Which also happened to be the same seats that my first Mustang had(an 82 GT). So I picked them up since they are a nice easy swap, but decided to get them recovered to look like the originals. I ordered the fabric from SMS, and a friend of the family does upholstery so once it showed up I dropped everything off and she started working on it. And now the time has come. She said the seats should be ready tomorrow and sent me a pic. I am really happy with how they are turning out so far. Also got the seat buttons engraved with mine and my dads initials since it was originally his car. So figured I would drop a little teaser here.
    7 points
  5. The kids and I attacked the mustang today with dish soap, wax, armor all, several rolls of paper towels and q-tips. It was a deep clean for the ages, and my little army of helpers had a blast!! We have been having so much fun since we got the mustang back up and running!!
    7 points
  6. Installed the new Tremec T5. Once I got the bell housing installed I needed to index it. The opening needs to be aligned within .005 of the crank shaft. This is normally a two person job, with one person spinning the crankshaft and the other watching the dial indicator. Since I don't have any convenient help I had to do it solo. By taking a reading every 45 degrees I was able to verify that I am within spec. Good news since I really did not want to try and remove the 50 year old locating pins! Here's a shot after clutch and throw out bearing installation: Now ready to slide in the transmission. With everything lined up it slid in like butter! Finished with clutch cable and speedometer hooked up: The shifter came right up through the stock automatic transmission shifter hole without modification. Oh yeah! Time to install the new rear end so I can get the driveshaft measured and ordered.
    6 points
  7. Pulled out the gauges and went with the white faces. Also the KPH face. Even though I was around pre-metric the brain gets a bit foggy doing MPH/KPH calculations on the go. Also fitted all LEDs in the gauges. Much easier to read. David
    6 points
  8. Decided since I live on the coast and am making a driver I should protect the tank seems how the yellow parts car tank I had was completely rusted I figured I should be proactive. ill be installing it soon! also here’s Weston looking sharp
    5 points
  9. It won't work right unless you bleed on it, the Car Gods demand a sacrifice.
    5 points
  10. Engine up date. Let me first say this has been a total exercise in patience. It's been a year since I dropped off my original 2 bolt and 72 4 bolt main blocks to who I will call engine builder #1. Well builder 1 had my blocks over 8 months and never touched them. Every time I would stop by I would get " I'm busy and check back with me in a month or so". The bummer is all the Pantera guys I talked to suggested builder #1 and my brother used him a few years back to build his Boss 302. So needless to say after 8 months I regretfully had to move on. On to engine builder #2 JBA speed shop San Diego. https://jbaspeedshop.com/ Back on a another waiting list. This time about 3 months which they said right up front. Finally I mean finally !!! thing are happening. I got the call from JBA a few weeks back that the blocks have been sonic tested and the 4 bolt main block tested thin above #5. Damn it!! If I was doing a stock build it would be fine. The good news my original 2 bolt block checked out very well. Second part of the call was that they need my flywheel to check the balance to the Scat crank and it just so happened my Tremec package showed up the day before. When I dropped the flywheel off and picked up the 4 bolt main block the 2 bolt block was in process of being board to the pistons. Yesterday I stopped by to see how things are going. Things are moving along. Unfortunately there waiting on Lunati cam . The rods and pistons are ready to go John wants to install the cam and 1 piston rod to degree the cam. The heads are in process as well. The machining on 1 head is done and drilling for the screw in studs on the second head was happening when I walled in. I'm so stoked to see this play out.
    5 points
  11. The seats are both finished and in the car. Love the finished product. I may try and adjust things to move the drivers seat back a little further than factory, but couldnt be happier with the finished product.
    5 points
  12. In the process of installing new wheels and tires. I had to source the parts from 4 different places since all is backorderd. It took a a week and a phone call for the idiots at Jegs to figure out that my wheels where not going to ship. They told me the wheels were discontinued after a week of waiting. When I communicated directly with the manufacturer they told me that indeed the 18x10 were discontinued but that they still had 7 in stock. The 18x8 for the front are still available. Jegs definitely dropped the ball. I ended up getting the 18x10s from Summit and the 18x8 in ebay, which should arrive on Wednesday, or so I hope. I am going with American Racing AR105M Series Black Torq Thrust M wheels, 18x10 (6 7/16BS) and 18x8 (4.5BS) for rear/front. For tires, I decided on Michelin Pilot S4S, 285/40ZR18 and 255/45ZR18. I know they are expensive, but that's the price to pay for the best in the Summer Max Performance segment. I installed a tire rack to keep my good old Magnum wheel/tire package: Wheel mock up. I am still waiting from the front wheels but just placed the rear one for show:
    5 points
  13. The name of my car varies depending on how it is running!
    5 points
  14. In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined
    4 points
  15. Figured I'd document my ongoing suspension/steering system overhaul here in case anyone is looking at doing something similar. So far I've done: - 12.7:1 quick ratio steering box from Redhead - new pitman arm, idler arm, rag joint, inner tie rods - Baer adjustable outer tie rods for bump steer elimination - 1 1/8" front sway bar - StreetorTrack front coilover conversion And I'm starting on the StreetorTrack rear 3-link suspension install this weekend. This should be considerably more involved than everything else listed above, so on one hand I'm somewhat intimidated by it, but on the other I'm really excited because this is the last suspension component I'm doing other than subframe connectors eventually.
    4 points
  16. This am is 7 Bear Sunday. Mom w/3 cubs on the side of the house and mom w/2 cubs out back. Mom/2 eventually came into he back yard to clean off the bird feeding area they had already raided earlier. Hoping they do not get together as mom/3 is mean. I have had to break up bear fights a few times over the years. Every day we have either one of these moms with her cubs here but this is one of the rare times they are here at the same time. 617627496_7bearsunday008.MOV1182725054_7bearsunday010.MOV
    4 points
  17. I went low tech, Krylon Fusion metallic Aluminum and to me looks just fine next to the argent stripe
    4 points
  18. Well, today I moved to the other end of the powertrain. I removed the factory 2.75 one-wheeler-peeler and installed a new 3.81 Eaton Truetrac rear end that I purchased from Quick Performance. First I pulled the axles. Here's what the diff looks like after 48 years. I spent more time removing the old gasket that all the rest of the job combined! Since the new gasket ran me $20!!, I figured it deserved a photo of it's own: And now the finished install. Damn was it heavy. Heavier than the Tremec transmission. Tomorrow I plan to tackle the rear brakes, install new axle seals, and put the rear end back together so I can lower the car and measure for the new driveshaft.
    4 points
  19. Well, here goes nothin'...I've had the car for almost 20 years now and have just recently gotten it drivable. My son has been taking an interest in it a lot lately, so I will post updates on here from time to time as we do little (or maybe big) projects to the car. We had a pretty fun week this week! After years of being a captive in the garage, we went through a couple tanks of gas and just enjoyed driving around town! We even drove to grandmas house 30 miles away for its first real test of road worthiness, then we got down to brass tacks and rolled up our sleeves to see what we could come up with. My son and I replaced light bulbs in the glovebox, and trunk (didn't even know there was a light in there!), we "fixed" a broken radio knob (will have to order a replacement in the future), hunted for and found a thoroughly destroyed build sheet, did some trouble shooting with the courtesy light switch on the drivers side and ordered our first couple of parts...a NOS dome light lens, and the aforementioned courtesy light switch for that driver door! We made a list of everything we could think of together that is currently in need of attention: 1. Slight door sag 2. Tach quit working 3. Temp gauge doesn't work 4. Reverse lights do not come on 5. Right turn signal indicator on the dash does not illuminate 6. Steering wheel has a pulsing "rattle" at about 65 mph, disappears at 70+ 7. A "howling" noise at 55 mph, any slower or faster...no noise. Weird. 8. Trip odometer will not reset 9. "Park" light on dash will not illuminate 10. We want a set of Louvers 11. Weather-stripping replacement 12. Dash rattles above the heat/AC controls, makes an annoying noise 13. Headliner sagging by rear window 14. Clock quit working 15. Dash lights are VERY dim 16. Windshield washer sprays don't work 17. Fix A/C 18. Trunk needs torsion rods. 19. Motor has a "tick"...lifter noise? I'm sure we will find plenty of other things to monkey with as we go along, but we wanted a list of relatively simple things that I think a father and son can attack. I'll probably be putting up threads on some of these issues in the near future. If we have some success in fixing some of these issues, next year we might have the motor taken out and freshened up, but that's a big step and probably a bit more than we can chew right now. Someday a more complete restoration may be in order, but I'm not going to rush into anything too crazy just yet...start small, and work our way up. We've been dreaming pretty big all week though...motor, tranny, suspension, locking differential, and of course paint. I've learned a lot about these cars from this forum, and still have a lot to learn. Thanks everyone for the help already received, and I hope your ready for a whole lot of possibly stupid questions! :) Hopefully my exploits will at least make for some entertaining reading.
    4 points
  20. Installed new front brakes. I also installed a new rag joint. You can see I cut off the automatic transmission lock out tab on the steering column since it won't be used after the conversion to manual transmission. You can also see the new clutch cable exiting the firewall next to the steering column.
    4 points
  21. I received my prizes today, minus the decals unless I overlooked them. LOL Anyways I had to try it out, so we just happen to have both the 70 and 71 in the garage. Went around all 8 tires and set the pressures. I guess we hadn't checked them this year as they all were a little off. It has a cool feature where you set the desired pressure and hit the button. It goes to that pressure and shuts off. Everything was packed very well, thanks Barry and whoever donated the prizes.
    4 points
  22. Yes indeed. THAT is exactly why I got the F*** out of Britain and moved to Canada ( I could have gone somewhere a lot warmer, I hate winter!) Back in the late 60's early 70's, although it was a great time to be alive, I got totally frustrated with Britain and its politics, labour unrest, you name it. After several months working as a Deep Sea Diver out of Norway, returning to Britain opened my eyes and it was not long before I found a job I was qualified for, College education paying off, and moved out. Yes, I actually had to have a JOB, money and a place to stay back in those days to qualify for immigrant status. The ONLY part I regret is not seeing my family and life long friends as often as I would like. Oh, and beer that actually has flavour. If you don't like your life, change it. The choices you make determine the way you live!
    4 points
  23. Finished front end suspension work. All new MOOG stuff including tie rods. While I had it apart I cut the front springs down to give me a slight drop. Now that she is down off the lift I can see how she sits with the new rear leaf springs as well. Brakes next.
    4 points
  24. Official numbers are 418rwhp and 437rwtq. Very happy with that. I'll post the sheet as soon as I get it.
    4 points
  25. Great story, but: :worthlesswithoutpics: ----- So after my pal Jim bought a 1963 1/2 Galaxie 500 XL to have a cool hot rod to work on, I was jonesin’ pretty hard for a cool hot rod of my own. After pokin’ around on Craigslist for a few weeks, I’d decided to look at a 1971 Mach 1 being sold for way too much money… but it was locally in San Angelo. I originally saw the first pic (below, swiped from the CL ad, as a matter of fact) and was intrigued, but not “all-in” for $2800. I kept seeing it on CL for a few weeks with the price dropping a bit each time. It had gotten down to $2200 when I called the seller and asked about it. He said he’d had lots of interest (B.S.) and it wouldn’t last long (more B.S.). I waited a few more days and called to go see the car – meanwhile, my wife had found his ebay ad for the same car (more pictures) with pretty much the same description – for $2000. I printed that out and took it with me. My pal Jim was warning me off the whole time, but I had the Mach 1 Goggles on and I was going to have this car. The seller had said something about the $2200 CL ad price, and I showed him the ebay ad… to which he reluctantly agreed to honor that price. After crawling all over the car, noting the holes in the floor, the seized engine, seized master cylinder, the fact that he had no title or even a set of keys, along with Jim “Dude-ing” me the whole time, I walked away. We both came to the conclusion that it was WAY too rough for the money and that it was probably better to pass on this one (OK – he decided it was better to pass on it, but I wasn’t done considering all options yet). After another week, I called the guy back and asked how things were going, and he once again came back with the ‘lots of interest’ and ‘won’t last long’ B.S., and I told him I’d like to check it out one more time. So, I met him on a Saturday morning with a trailer and looked it over one more time. He still wanted $2200, and I reminded him of the ebay ad I’d shown him last time. He sighed and agreed again. But then I threw him a healthy dose of reality. He kept claiming it was a rare and desirable car, and worth a lot more – he’d just seen one go for $40K on Barrett Jackson. To which, I threw up the B.S. Flag. During that week away, I’d joined 7173Mustangs.com and I think this forum as well, and done a ton of research. Turns out it was a Boss 351 that went for $40K (very much NOT a ratted-out H-Code Mach 1), and I explained everything in detail about the car (production numbers, DSO code, how insignificantly not-rare or collectible the car is, etc.) and told him with the seized engine, rust, no title or keys, and overall sad shape of the car that I would give him $1600 and not a penny more. He started to protest and I basically told him that I’ve been watching this car not selling for the past 2 months, and that he wasn’t going to find another sucker to give him even that much. He wanted to argue, but finally agreed after seeing the trailer outside… and a few minutes later my other friend Don and I winched the Mach 1 onto the trailer, I handed him 16 Benjamins and took his quickie Bill of Sale that he’d scribbled out. I later found out he’d only paid something like $1000 for it, and was trying to pull off a Gas Monkey kind of a deal. It wasn’t until I got it over to the Auto Hobby Shop that I’d started being concerned about a few things… First, that I’d gone against Jim’s advice, Second that I’d paid too much, and Finally that there were no keys. I wasn’t even concerned with the lack of title, but that would sink in later and turn out to be no big deal as well, since it had ancient Texas plates, a military ID tag, and a Texas registration sticker from 1980 (it had fallen out of the system a long time ago). Jim was there just shaking his head, looking more like a disappointed father after I’d just wrecked the family car or something. He wasn’t pissed or anything, but he was definitely not initially very supportive. I’d even asked him, “OK, Jim. What should I start with?” Without missing a beat, he replied, “A tetanus shot.” Looking back on things, that was freaken hilarious… but at the time it just irritated me. Don said he’d ease the car off the trailer with the winch, but after I hopped in, he hit the release and the Mustang and I rolled off the trailer and picked up speed before bouncing hard onto the pavement and coasting away. This was the first time ‘driving’ the Mustang, but I was really more of a passenger, since the steering wheel was locked (with no keys), and the brake pedal was solid from the seized master cylinder. After it came to a stop, the guys helped push the car to an outside stall, and the comments began to roll out. Everything from, “whatta pile,” to “I wouldn’t have bought that POS,” to “what possessed you to buy THAT,” to “you’ll never make that nice again,” came from just about everybody who laid eyes on it… which just made me more determined – whatever… it’s my car now, and I’m going to make everybody eat their words. Here are some pics – a couple of Craigslist pics and a few from after getting the car to the shop. And 4 years later, this:
    4 points
  26. I wondered why we don't see Rocketfoot much sometimes ... now we know
    3 points
  27. Not so much a horror story but they did try to swap parts with me. I was building a flathead V-8 and had a crank that was in great shape and never been ground so .010" grind was all that was needed. I have installed the bearings and measured them and had written down the diameters to grind each journal. I always stamp my initials on any parts I leave anywhere. When I went to pick up the crank they bring out a crank and it has been cut .020" or .030" and is not my crank. I demand mine and they say that is the one I dropped off. We were in the shop and I went to the grind area and pointed to a crank and said that is mine. They said not. I told them that if my initials were stamped on the second crank throw I was taking it. I picked it up and there was D.F.F. stamped so I walked out and never went back there. Always mark your parts in some way to identify them. Grind, etch, stamp but mark them and with today's digital photos take pictures. I have never taken many things for others to work on I have always done most of my work. Anyone that does not get a specific written, signed and even notarized contract is asking for issues. If they will not do that you need to go somewhere else.
    3 points
  28. Past weekend was dry, warm... Sooooo: barbecue time!! All the new parts that I've received over past months were either not coated, simply oiled or covered with some poor paint. None had of course the kind of finish I had in mind for them. So spend a good part of my saturday cleaning & degreasing them and mask/tape all the parts I could not remove, rubbers, threads etc.. Then just like the restored parts, they did receive a primer, their respective colors and a nice thick finish coat. Sunday was like xmas, lots to unwrap and it was even time to put some stuffs together, install nipples etc... Reassembled the spindles done last weeks with ther hardware plated last year. Installed all back together after a good cleaning and copper greasing of each thread. Was lots of work to get there, zinc plating them was not the easiest thing to do. But now, boy do they not look like a million??! :D Yes these are the same!! :D I know btw I need some wires for their nuts, Anyone have some info on how it should be done the right way? Never done that before, but really would love to have them "twisted" the right secure way. I will buy some SS wire for that asap. Then it was time to put the top arms together... 50 years old and looking goooood :D Then it was time to put all these babies together back into their original nest that is now making a nice contrast with its semi gloss black. Nothing torqued to specs yet until all is on.. Also gave love to the koni's that were plated last year and gave them the car body color (no red), that will look nice into the light grey coils that were done last week... All with all, it was nice to finally see all the work started last novembre come together! The other side fx is that I could get rid of many boxes and create some welcome space. One regret is that the long part that connects both sides (rod assembly, the drag link I think is the name) is still at a friend's place where it needs to go under press to correct the bow into it created at some point when someone jacked up the car with it... No biggy tho, as once I will have the steering box revised, i will need to paint it as well, so will do both at the same time. to be continued...
    3 points
  29. I installed this clip just as directed by Tim- pushing into the hole and with pliers and squeezing the tabs together. Two photos below. From underneath the car and from the footwell:
    3 points
  30. Well, it's been close to 3 months since I've posted an update, but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything. I've gotten the instrument cluster back together with LED bulbs installed. I got the steering column painted and reassembled, but the turn signal switch is binding, so I'll have to go back through it, one more time. I got the front and rear seats reupholstered with new foam and seat covers from TMI. Most of the wrinkles seen in the picture were worked out, and overall, the seats look pretty good. I also cut open the top of the new fuel tank and installed the new Tanks, Inc. electric fuel pump. I pretty much did what Autoedit did in the YouTube video, except I used a body saw instead of a hole saw, and oriented the fuel reservoir away from the sending unit to keep it from interfering, but otherwise did pretty much the same. A little work with the hammer and dolly got the lip flattened out and lining up with the sealing ring pretty well. Once the steel retaining ring is placed on the inside edge of the hole and the screws tightened down, it straightens the edge up even better. The retaining ring is installed and the screws inserted to secure it. The Viton washers were removed so that they would not get damaged when the retaining ring was tacked into the opening. After tack welding between each of the screw hole locations, the welds were ground down to make the top flush. Then the tank was cleaned with WD-40 and a magnet, plus wiping it out with some paper towels, and then more WD-40. It was a new tank, but I had gotten from a guy on Facebook marketplace, and there was a little but of crud inside it. It wasn't rust, but I'm not sure what it was. It took a little bit, but I was able to get the tank cleaned out really well. Then, it was time for the gasket sealer, top, and all those screws. Overall, the tank came out really well, and I'm pleased with it. Also, I've kept busy, building a motor for the Rickster. With all the Covid stuff going on, it took a while to get the cylinder heads shipped, but I finally got everything I needed. I had to hit up Don at Ohio Mustang Supply a few times for brackets, etc. since some were missing. I got the Power steering pump and brackets from him. It's a 50 year old pump of unknown history, so I went ahead and rebuilt it. Twice. When they say try not to let the spider come apart, there is a reason for that. My first attempt at reassembly, I got it wrong, and after reinstalling the pump discovered it wouldn't turn very easily. I pulled it all apart, went back through it, and found I had the slippers upside down. DOH!!! After the second or third time putting the spider together, I did develop a feel for it, and it's not difficult, but the first time or two, it can be pretty frustrating. Once reassembled, I double checked and it turned easily, and after installation on the motor, it only required 4 in-lbs of force to turn the pulley, well, within the factory spec of 2-15 in-lbs. Tomorrow, I'll post about the engine build but that's enough for now. Except to say, that the paint shop says the Rickster is very close to done, and should be back in my garage in the next week or so. WooHoo!!! Then the real fun begins - reassembly.
    3 points
  31. Hi Moose That is repairable ... an easy piece of work for me -- but may be fiddly and irritating for someone who's not done it before Its done in the same way I rebuild blown track on Printed Circuit Boards in the electronic systems I deal with at work. I don't disagree - its a painstaking, often irritating job. Clean and lap down the faces where it has blown raised areas with tiny diamond tip of a Dremel (small rotary tool) Clean any copper spatter out of the trenches Get slightly oversized diameter copper wire - remove the enamel and make a piece to fit precisely into your gap Place a tiny drop of nail varnish (Yes ....girlie nail varnish) in the gap (clear is best so you can see the substrate you're working on) With tweezers lay the piece into the gap and let the varnish harden (5mins) Solder each end delicately ("Sodder" in Amercanese ) Then flatten to the same surface height by removing excess copper/sodder with fine diamond dip with Dremel Fine polish with wet/dry emery paper voila - a new track
    3 points
  32. Took him to a show. He got surrounded by a whole bunch of farting little Brit cars and Euro-boxes
    3 points
  33. Nice looking group of steeds!! I like the stance on yours.
    3 points
  34. I'm selling one of my Boss 351s. Please check it out: https://russoandsteele.com/vehicle-details/?show_vehicle=175614&current_index=0&total_results=24&tsauction_id=209&=&caryear=&caryearto=&search_text=&page=featured&showpage=1 It's truly a great car. Please let me know what you think! Thanks for reading.
    3 points
  35. Yes, that is the sway bar. Adding longer shackles is a bandaid for old sagging springs. The correct way to do it is new springs designed for the height you want. Longer shackles increases the side load on the shackles and bushings and likely will allow the rear axle to move back and forth a little more than stock length.
    3 points
  36. So I had a little accident on the 4th of July. I tripped and fell into a bonfire. 🤬 Was at my sisters house on a lake that they had just moved into early this year. Was by myself at the time, so that made it worse. I was barefoot and I smashed one of my toes into the corner of a brick paver. Got a bum leg from a previous accident, and of course that’s the one I hit. It put me right up against the brick pavers which were knee high and I lost my balance and went right into the fire. My left arm hit on the sharp edge of a piece of firewood and split my forearm wide open. That arm is already mostly paralyzed from the same accident that I broke my leg all up, so I couldn’t push out. Was kinda stuck, couldn’t roll out over the brick pavers so I had to put my right hand into the fire to push up and out. Son of a Bitch! I didn’t know what to do so I went into the lake and sat in there for a few minutes, then made it up to the house which is quite a hike up a hill. Then my sister and brother in law took me to the closest hospital. They couldn’t do anything for me there, so I had to go to the burn unit in Detroit. They rushed me by ambulance to there, but I don’t remember that. Was in the ER for 22 hours waiting to get a bed in a regular room. That was quite a trip in there, wow! Anyway I had surgery the next morning, everything went good and they didn’t have to do any skin grafts! Was in Detroit Receiving Hospital for 4 days and then they sent me home. I have 3rd degree burns on my left arm and a spot on my left side of my back. Then the rest of the burns on my left side are 2nd degree. I also have 2nd degree burns on the palm of my right hand and arm. I think I put my hand on the steel ring that was in the fire pit to help me get out. Was looking forward to finally going to car shows and all the fun that goes along with summer. Not sure how long this will take to heal and will probably always be in pain from it. Just what I needed, more pain.😢 That’s about it I guess, thanks to anyone for taking the time to read through this!
    3 points
  37. Been busy past few weekends and did not post anything.. Time to rectify that! :D On the 73 front, Received my needed parts for the swap, like a 2500 stall speed locked Hugues converter, A beautifull Sonnax forged yoke 28 spline. And also got my radiator lines back from my fav local shop. The ones I have now on the FMX will be transfered onto the C6... Along with the Sonnax yoke came a new Moog 1310 u-joint to match on trans side the yoke and the other the axle shaft. As I will drive to a friend 50 miles away to do the swap on his lift, I want to have most prepped done so that most can be done fast. So installing the u-joint on this very very nice yoke was next on the todo. Well, I've changed many time u-joints, but never had to deal with such tight tolerances. The Sonnax yoke is really a beautifully machined piece, the down side is to install the joints it's not easy at all. Only managed to have one side in, and will need a press to finish the other side. I might start over and leave the u-joint in fridge for a couple of hours. The weather was too nice (unbelievable after months of rains) to waste it on this alone... Because my 73 has an offenhauser intake with a Sniper on top, the original bracket wasn't aligned. So during the sniper install I had to modify the throttle bracket to receive the kickdown cable. Ended up as a 2 pieces, no probs on itself, but because the AOD TV cable really needs to be set properly, I thought it was time to make a solid one piece one. So removed the one I had, and compared the one I already did for my 429. It became obvious after some measurements that it would need to be much stronger than the 429 version, because the base is much more central on the engine... A few templates further, I went for a one piece fold, carefully picking each side I could fold to allow enough space to fold the next. Once the shape in place, it was time to aluminium solder it and finish it with a sanding and polishing session. Now I got the throttle bracket I wanted: a solid one piece unit! :D Another problem that needed be addressed was my brakes still sticking... the only part left over that could create a problem was my booster. So as no booster were to be ordered from here. All asking for a shipping of the core, the repair and the shipping back, I decided to use the 9'' booster that I bought last year to replace the 71 one. Made by Leed, it comes with the 2 rods you find on 71 and 72-73. So after a tiring gym session under dash, removed the old one and install that baby. As I had now a spare master cyl and the 71 firewall exposed, as no gasket was provided, made a template and cut a rubber sheet. Dialed the push rod. The unit looks very small in there now, but I must say that creates some welcome space there!! Most importantly, I took the car for a ride of a dozen of miles, used the brakes hard and when back, I could notice a significant improvement. The rotor were under 100c and wheel was turning. Not as free as I'd like tho, there is still drag, but nowhere near where it was. At this point, considering all is new, I think I need wait a bit till the pads have lost a tad of their thickness to completely free the rotor. All I know is that I now go for a ride with a laser thermometer and check. The smell of hot brakes is now gone.... so I'll leave it at it for now... As for my 2 boosters (71 and 73), I'm about to order the required parts that our local David has managed to find. So I'll be busy restoring 2 boosters myself as the current way these can be restored is simply too expensive to be performed from Europe using that shipping core procedure. On the 71 front, the parts plated end of last year, were next on the todo: well protected by the zinc layer, they were still pristine and needed only some dust removal to receive first a layer of epoxy, followed by a water sanding pass the next day. Not super detailed, but just to end up with a more satisfying smooth result later on and minimise the chance for dust to settle and collect moisture over time on a rough surface. Then a thin layer of primer. For my 71, I have selected 3 greys for the parts (sorry originality lovers), and so painted each series in their own grey. Finally they received their final jacket in the form of a thick clear coat layer for optimum protection and ease of cleaning in the future. Pretty happy to see how all these original once rusty parts ended up! Next weekend, i'll paint the new parts that came with cheapo black paint like the lower arms etc... After that I could even think about reinstalling a few things on the car to create space in my near explosion garage :D Last but not least, the Lokar kit designed for AOD was as expected another joke (look just at the bracket in circle.. not even able to match the hole of the trans that they are supposed to be made for... not to mention you would not be in line either even if you'd mod that thingy). I knew it as it's my third Lokar cable surgery, I keep buying these simply because I do like their stainless sleeves and cables and could not find it here. For the rest really, the stuff that they provide is so off or/and of such poor quality it's ridiculous. The tv cable is sure to fail sooner or later if you trust/mod what they provide. In fact I saw afterwards that the stuff they provided for this specific application the exact same was as on the KD cable of my C6!! I really don't get that company. Anyway, I knew it, I had the spring and cable I needed, so modified the original TV lever, which turned out to be super strong (made me use big guns and mig weld in the end to get it done), to allow the cable stop to be kept in a small 1/2 hole to reduce wear, made another bracket to ensure all was aligned, making sure that the linkage that is now placed up in trans to allow the mustang shifter would not touch and work without any further mods (tho I might need move the other pivot up or down, but i'll know that for sure on swap day). Made a double reinforced/soldered custom little bracket to make sure it would handle a far greater tension than it should ever have to handle. Plated all the mods and ended up with a satisfying functioning and looking mechanism! Me very happy and already forgot all about Lokar's provided crap :D I did many more details on the 71 too, but will post on them later on when I'll start put some stuffs back on the car and finally have that swap done... To be continued...
    3 points
  38. Well here is a partial repost/cut and paste/edit from my new member introduction last year. I figured this would be a better place for the car's history. So, with apologies for those that have already read this last September, here's my Mustang story: While I am not the original owner, I am pretty close. I bought the car in 1975 used from the local Ford dealer. It is a 1973 2V automatic Mach 1. When I acquired it there was 8000 miles on the clock. The woman who owned it originally traded it for a Mustang II. [how I met her is a story for another time]. I was in college at the time in Southern California and this is the car that I learned to work on cars with. I was a road racing fan at the time and my Mach saw many late night high-speed runs on the Angeles Crest highway back in those years. During my college days I made a number of “improvements” on the car. All of this work was done in the parking lot and under an apartment carport. Hedman headers, Offenhauser Dual plane intake, Holley 650 double pumper, Ram air, 351 Boss valve covers, 1971 4V Ford HO Cam, Rear sway bar, radial tires, Mallory electronic ignition, 1971 rear valence and dual exhaust. I am sure I am leaving out a number of things, but that is what I remember. The car ran pretty well and I managed a high 14 second run in the quarter which is saying something given the 2.75 open diff. In 1977 an idiot riding a bicycle between cars in a parking lot ran into my front fender. I decided to repaint the whole car since I wanted to remove the white ½ vinyl top that came with the car and put on 1972 stripes. I also changed out the tail lights to the earlier black surround style. This is also when I added the rear valence. In about 1980 I moved in next door to a guy with a 1971 Mach 1 4V HO car. He was going to trade his Mustang in on a BMW so I asked him if I could swap out some parts. He said no problem and over the next week or so I ended up with his 4V heads (open chamber), carb and intake manifold and he traded in a slightly modified ’71… Well come the early 80s and life got in the way. New wife, job, small garage…like many it was time to part with my pride and joy. I had a great dad who when learning that I was going to sell the car offered to buy it from me and store it until I could buy it back someday. He was sure I’d really like to have my “first love” back at some point in the future. He like so many others always regretted selling his first car. As I recall he gave me $3000 for it. We never did any paperwork so legally I continued to own it. I guess the transaction is better classified as a fully collateralized loan where there were no payments and he held the collateral. He stored the car in his airplane hangar and drove it monthly around the airport taxiways (you could get away with that back then) to keep it fresh. Fast forward to around 1990. My life situation was changed and I was able to “buy” my Mach back for the same $3000 I gave him 10+ years earlier. I decided the first order of business was to take the car back closer to stock and removed the headers, installing factory exhaust manifolds and factory dual exhaust. The ignition went back to points, coil back to yellow top, steering wheel back to original along with a few other things. She didn’t run nearly as strong anymore, but my days of racing up the Angeles Crest were behind me and I was happy to have my “first car” back. Well, again life got in the way and my automotive interests changed and the old Mach ended up languishing in storage and un-driven for 25 years which brings us to today. Now retired I have the time and flexibly to work on the car again. I’m going to get her back running and do some things I have always wanted to do. I have no illusions that the car will ever be particularly valuable to anyone other than me and I am not interested in showing or having the car judged. Today I am most of the way through a Tremec T5 conversion and have substantially finished my refurbishment. Most of my progress has been posted in the "What did you do to your car today" thread. In hind sight I probably should have started a build thread. Maybe someday I'll recreate that thread for prosperity. A few recent progress pics below (also reposts...sorry). -Chris
    3 points
  39. Curious to see what rare or hard to find 71-3 parts people have hiding away in their garage, basement, attic, grandma’s house… Thought I would start with the smallest part I have sitting in a bowl on my office desk. I’ll have to get it installed in the J Code Vert as soon as I get the carb back on the car… Took me three years to find this little gem in near perfect shape. $40 is what it cost me. Big or small, lets see what you are hoarding from other 71-3 owners!
    3 points
  40. Rear SoT suspension goodies came in the mail yesterday. Going to start tackling it in a few days.
    3 points
  41. I know how you feel, I waited forever to get my Mustang as well...............
    3 points
  42. That's a nice one, Ken! One of the ultimate ones, congratz to your find Here is my ultimate find of my life - two turn signal/parking light assemblies with orange lenses, original made only for the German market T5's. Considering only 531 '73 T5's were made I had some luck to find a decent pair for a very good price, took me only 7 years There is a pair still out there, but he wants around 1.000 dollars - too much for two yellow lenses in my opinion... So I had quite luck to find these
    3 points
  43. I just added a button maker to the forum's post editor! It is the little gray rectangle next to the emoji icon in the post editor...just click it when typing a post and fill in the title and URL that the button should link to and DONE! You can also choose color and sizes if you wish! It's just a little way to make your links stand out in a post or a way to add a garage button, etc... Enjoy! Community Map
    3 points
  44. Well, turns out I did not have everything I needed for the front brakes after all so that'll have to wait a few days. Back to the engine bay... Today I installed rebuilt power steering pump, pump hoses and cooler. Ditched my flex fan and installed thermostatic clutch fan. Put in the new radiator, and with that the shroud and obligatory "caution fan" sticker. Brake booster/master cylinder and tower braces will wait until I get the new clutch cable installed. Couple photos below- pre and post radiator and air cleaner install.
    3 points
  45. So what is holding you up? If my memory serves me right you play the guitar so why not have another "British Invasion" and make millions having the young ladies screaming at the top of their lungs "we love you 1sostatic". But seriously, you not getting any younger and if there isn't a real reason to stay then why not start a new chapter in your life and make the move. Nothing worse than going through life regretting the things you didn't do. I saw your you tube video during the covid lockdown and with your electronic knowledge finding a job or starting your own business would be no problem.
    3 points
  46. 1 inch eaton shackle. 295-50-15 tire
    3 points
  47. Thought I'd bump this. Many don't know the differences. Ray C
    3 points
  48. Down with the British - - no taxation without representation I hope ya'aawll doin fine over there without us
    2 points
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