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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/2021 in Posts

  1. I did some Autocross today. Today was the last race of this year. This is my second year and it was a huge improvement. When I started last year I was at the bottom 5% of the group. The group is of about 100 cars. I started this year at the bottom 25% after the new suspension. Today I was in the top 33%. This is the second race in a row that I beat all the other Mustangs. There are about 5-6 Mustangs from 2000+ and I am running better than them. The Maier suspension with the Michelin PS4 tires are amazing! It is very cool to have a car that can handle all those Gs.
    13 points
  2. I had just gotten the car fired up after sitting at my brothers house for 4 years without it running. Anxious to see what it could do and to give the engine a good "blowing out" I drove to the local 4 lane highway and I laid into it on the entrance ramp. As I reach the top of the ramp getting ready to merge the speedo said 75 and as I looked into the side mirror I saw the local police coming up on the main highway behind me. I figure he would light me up but instead he just stayed on my tail. Laying off the gas and taking the first exit I took the back road back to my house with him in tow. After pulling into my drive he pulled up and got out of his cruiser. He ask how I was doing and I said fine. He mention that he had clocked me at 77 and I told him that it was the first time out with it and I wanted to give it a good run and I said I was sorry. He looked at me with a half smile and said that with a car like that he would of gave me up to 90 mph before considering pulling me over. Come to find out he was into muscle cars and he has a 69 Chevelle SS with a 396. After talking cars for about a half hour he said he had to get back to work. I have seen him numerous times since then and we have become friends.
    10 points
  3. So today I finished up the paint on my front bumper. Here it is in the paint booth after sanding down the primer, final wipe with wax remover and tack cloth. I also vacuumed the paint booth and sprayed down some dust treatment on the floor. A sealer coat was applied next. It helped to gain a little confidence with the paint gun before applying actual paint. One more tack and it was time to lay down paint. Four coats: And then finally four coats of high durability clear: The finished product looks pretty good for my first attempt with a paint gun. It will be baked overnight. Frankly the whole process was not as difficult as I had imagined. Using a paint gun was much easier than a rattle can! Paint work has always been black magic to me. It was actually pretty fun to give it a go. I'm a little worried the bumper is going to look too nice up against the 45 year old paint on the rest of the car...ha! I have decided I am going to tackle painting the Mach 1 hood blackout myself next week. I need to get a buddy over to help me lift off the hood this weekend as I am going to paint it off the car.
    7 points
  4. @tony-muscle Thx Tony, but you know, I can't save these parts half! Once you actually do all this routinely, the shine comes almost for free. And that it's underneath or in plain sight doesn't really matters. Plus, once they are under a nice coat, they are so smooth to the touch, it's much more easy to clean than that raw rough steel. @timachone Nothing goes above a Mustang read for breakfast! I was planning to focus only on my new patient, the saginaw steering gear, but as this weekend was looking like the last dry not too cold weekend of the year, I went plan b and use that weather to spray a few things, so I could be able to finish a few things I've started before the misery comes back.. Here's my last weekend, as usual, not perse in chronological order. After some taping and good degreasing, primed, painted and coated my booster. It popped in my mind that a a booster needs a master cylinder to actually do something and as it was in a box for a long time, I totally forgot it (almost). So sprayed it in its own grey and as the clear coat I'm using gave me pretty results on other zinc protected parts, I also took the chinese chrome cover with it. While the booster was drying, made some rubber gasket to fit in between firewall and the unit as I did on my 73. There was nothing left of the original plastic thingy and as its sole purpose is to isolate air to enter the cabine, this should be even better as it eventually takes out vibs too. All hard on Sunday, I've installed the one way valve grommet/valve and I was pretty pleased to see the combo now in a pretty descent state! I'm sure purists will file a complain about the finish... but in my jurisdiction, I'm dang happy about the way they look considering how all this was just a week ago and they match my greys theme ! :D In between spray & heat gun sessions for my parts. I went back to the gear dismantelling, and on one side, you need a special tool to unlock it. A visit to my local shop revealed that the right tool, was just $110... yeah right. Soooo as I have a couple of similar tools that came with past axe tools to change/secure disks, I've cut one, and welded in the missing space. Few minutes later, after first marking the position of the assembly to ease reassembly later on, I used my frankenstein tool and it did great. Tho, after the locking ring is loose, it's not really necessary. I think having it will be handy later on. Oh well, I have it now and saved some money :D The unit had no play, no leaks and I could have just cleaned it up and mount it back, but I'm glad I did not cut corners, as while bushings and pretty much everything is looking good, after 50 years, it was really in need of a good clean up! New o-rings, gaskets etc.. should give it a few decades more! Btw, If you ever service one of these. Keep in mind there is a hole on the side of the casing to get that snap ring out. Don't loose precious time as I did to try get it out the way snap rings are supposed to be taken out, this is GM, they make holes in casings vs use good snap rings! :D The weather still perfect, I also changed my plan that was to first put the gear back together and then paint, because 2 weeks of misery are coming this way and would end up with casing that only wants to rust on me. So after some love, got that casing grease, rust free and after some tedious masking, I've sprayed that baby. Because I know I will have the challenge to not damage the finish on the way back, I sprayed 6 thin layers of coat with 5 minutes in between with heat gun, and ended up with a real thick long lasting surface that should be solid rock next weekend. Installing back faded alumnium parts on a bling bling unit being kinda silly when you own a polishing machine, I gave the top and end cap some love, corrected the many casting flaws with files and sanding paper and got them whoooo sssssssshhhiny! :D My pitman arm and its hardware already done, I realised the sector shaft would be out of tone, but this thingy being really heavy, I would need build some complex thingy to hold it while it took a bath... nah, plan B too there! Went freehand plating :D and before I got some cramp, I ended up with the exposed part looking as my pitman arm. Ater a good rinse, cleaning it went in a freezing bag under a good layer of assembly goo so it doesn't rust on me or collects any debris. Btw, this stuff, is fantastic. made for transmission repair, where it really made a big difference for the 2 trans I did in past 2 years acting often as a third hand. Most of all, it ensures all stays lube, no matter how long it will take before you actually use the parts. Once it warms up a bit it desolves. My forgotten tie rod end also plated and painted, I could also place back the other side. Which gave me a weird alignment where both wheels were going opposite directions. Turning the sleeves on both side corrected that, tho I will only be able to make a "not too shabby" adjustment only after the pitman/gears are back in. Install and adjustments where done with great ease now that all is restored/new. Big contrast with removing them! Turning the wheels is now smooth as butter. With one or 2 hours of sun left, I decided I did enough for the weekend and that it was time to take the lady 73 for a spin... awesome! To be continued....
    7 points
  5. A beautiful fall day on the prairies. Took time to stretch the legs of the convertible. The leaves will be gone before we know it.
    7 points
  6. Got the ram air flat coil hood springs done today. Maid a jig to open up the spring to get the paint between the coils.
    7 points
  7. From the factory steel with sports caps. To some Australian made, early 1970's ROH Pro Sprint wheels. 235 / 60 / 14 on the front and 245 / 60 / 14 on the back. Next job, to replace the front drum brakes with disk.
    6 points
  8. I decided to repaint my front bumper to get rid of 45 years of stone chips and blemishes, and a really bad paint chip repair I did back in '79 or '80 with a mismatched bottle of touch up paint and a brush. I removed the bumper and cleaned things up. I took down to a local body shop where they let me do the repairs myself. I shot the primer today and hope to lay down color tomorrow. This is my first time painting using something other than a rattle can. I figure if I can get the bumper right I can go on to bigger things. I hoping to get enough confidence to do the hood Mach 1 blackout paint myself.
    6 points
  9. I’ve realized that one has to be careful with all the attention these cars bring. I had someone stop traffic until I acknowledged his thumbs up (I was pumping go juice), to having another taking a picture while driving at 70mph! However my favorite story, so far, was when I bought the car and went to switch the title they told me I had a year to get it inspected. Thought it was peculiar since NC does not require an inspection for older cars. Put it off for 8 months, when I finally went to get it “inspected” at the DMV he came out and took a picture of the vin and car. That’s when I found out they were just checking to see if it was stolen. While waiting, had a guy come up to talk about it. 5 minutes later a State Trooper pulls up behind me, gets out, and asked “who’s car is this!”? OH CRAP. Now, I’m thinking there goes my purchase price and why oh why did I drop more money into it before this. “Mine sir” He then proceeded to hold his keys up in the air and asked “Wanna trade?” Somehow I was able to keep my composure enough to lean over and look around him at his fully equipped dodge charger, state issued, patrol car and reply “no thanks”. After a few laughs I proceeded to cuss him out for about giving me a heart attack as he didn’t know what I was there for. Well, if you made it this far, I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did (?) and would love to hear y’all’s story’s! john
    6 points
  10. I found this pic searching around on Google. I think white and silver look great.
    5 points
  11. So there's a bit of progress. Before cutting away the crap there was one thing to measure, I just didn't know how. In the end I did it like this: The heater bolts on to this and since I want to put one back I am going to need this piece of metal back at the same spot... Now the cutting can continue! See: Time to start making a patch: There are a few clear and straight folds that are easy to create: 3 to be exact: Worked on the front of the patch first, lots of little flat surfaces there: Then the rear where it goes up in a curve: This is our cat, he's fantastic: Then finally I started to make it fit which involved walking back and forth from my car to the workbench 1000 times, each time measuring, comparing, bending, hammering, cutting or shaving to make it fit better. In the end it fits perfectly and I've made sure to have enough gap around it so that welding will be easy: Next up will be welding it in!
    5 points
  12. I painted my hood today. After gaining confidence with the paint gun on the front bumper I figured what the hell, give it a go. Here it is with stencil in place, masked, sanded and tacked ready for paint: Well, moment of truth. After two coasts of single stage and thirty minutes to flash, I removed all the tape. Ta da! I'm pretty happy with the result. Not too shabby for "amateur hour". Going to let it bake overnight and then reinstall tomorrow. I'll wait a few days before putting on the Argent 351 RAM AIR decals.
    4 points
  13. Small update: The patch is in. Welding took me 7-7.5 hours in 2 days alltogether I reckon. Checked for pinholes a 100 times, there are none left. Made sure water will run sideways, no vent hole anymore as the new heater won't require one. Also don't want any moist outside air to come into this car anymore, want it to be dry inside.
    4 points
  14. After 48 years, my '73 sat slightly low on the driver's side. I didn't measure it, but it could certainly be noticed looking straight on from the rear. I replaced the rear leaf springs with Eaton springs and new stock length Eaton shackles. Now the car sits even side to side. Eaton makes three different springs for our cars; Standard, Competition and Boss. I installed the Competition springs and I am happy with the selection. As far as the typical rear squat our cars have, I corrected that at the same time by cutting 1/2 coil out of the stock original front springs. Photos show stance now.
    4 points
  15. Thanks for all the kind comments and encouragement. I took her out for some air time today and she posed for a few pics at an old gas station. Check out the gas delivery truck. Price on the pumps was $.25.9 and $.27.9 for premium.
    4 points
  16. 4 points
  17. Very busy with work lately, I've postponned to update and today after been asked why there was no update, I realise I've been lazy. Sorry for that!! :O Soooooo, here some highlights of my past weekends! Not perse in chronologic order... On the 73 front, totally annoyed at that hot start prob being back (despite having a new strong batt, high torque starter) , which left me stranded in middle of nowhere for 2.5 hours till it cooled off after I had the great idea to go enjoy a big mac menu far from civilisation. So basically redid all the wires and replaced all the old gauge 4 with gauge 2 and 1 ( 50mm2) wires and I finally have a car that does start again. Did salvage and renew the original bracket and other details for a safe and clean install of the new thicker lines. Now very near of doing that FMX/AOD swap, I did a premiere for me which is to use proper tools (and reading glasses to actually see the tiny holes into the tools) to end up with my first waterproof connector ever. In this case, its the light switch on the trans side that will need be connected with the original one... Ok, I did F..up one pin and needed redo it! :D and did lay quite a few enjoyable miles with that baby till the Dutch weather decided it was enough and I should stay in the garage to work on the 71 instead! Brake calipers, you order: you install and you're done. Wrong!! Turns out, and not just the callipers, that NONE of the new parts I got were delivered with descent protection. In fact some were already rusting into their boxes!!! So each part, from pressure plate to little hardware has been plated, painted etc... Some parts, like the "pads tensionners", whatever these little brackets supposed to hold the pads on their position, were simply not of the right shape, so needed to modify them. Then found out not both sides were having same parts, worse, driver side was not even having all the necessary parts. So needed order extra to finally be able to install them, now all nicely bling bling in their matching metallic grays. Question before I forget: I have also started install stainless brake lines. But classic tube does not provide holders. I did re-plate for now the old rusty ones: anyone know where I could buy stainless ones or at least know their name to ease the search? The once rusty strut rods, now totally sexy are in place, not even close to their final adjustemnt, but just enough so all the bushings parts are all falling to their place. The sway bar too. You think you order and install... of course not. After finally have the car back on her refreshed cragars, the problem to install them wasn't the angle, it was simply that the provided rod were at least 1/2 inch too short, and that was enough to not be able to engage at least a bit the locking nuts. So went to my fav special stuffs shop and found 2 of same dimensions except they were at the right length and install became a breeze. 10 buxx gone again, simply because I didn't get the right hardware... Soon forgot all this as my eyes told me they were very pleased with what they saw once I was done with the gym session to secure the sway bar bolts! :D Bling bling is nice, but you value the shine only because there are parts that are lacking of it! Meet my next patient: The brake booster. This fine 50 years old piece of equipment known to be fine before the car was parked about 25 ago, was found to be soaked with brake fluids a few years back when I've removed it. Ordering one of these babies is no longer as before where you'd pay an extra 50buxx for the core if you did not send it back. Instead, nowdays, you pretty much have to send the unit, let it be repaired, and once back to your place after a zillions of weeks waiting, you found out that import fees, transport and the unit repair itself is an expensive thingy. For that reason, 2 years ago, I bought a Leeds, bits smaller one, thinking it'd be ok for the 71. Thx to very weird brake probs on my 73, I ended up install it on it (to find out the booster wasn't part of the prob) and because it's quite some gym to replace it, it will stay on it for a while. Time past and saw a post from David where he said he had located a kit to repair his. Long story short. I have a kit provided by David for this Bendix unit in house and because the planets were aligned the right way 2 weeks ago, I decided to repair that 71 booster... Before to be able to do anything usefull on and in it, you need first to open it. The two parts casing is hold together by tabs. The rubber squeezed in between ensures all stays sealed. Because of the push rod and shape on the other side, you need some fixture to hold everything. Lucky me, my work bench has the deluxe option that was making this a breeze. A huge wooden vice with plenty space for the 4 bolts, enough depth for the rod to have the front on top, totally secured. Note that if you plan to do this too, that its now a very good idea to mark both sides so you can realign them back exactaly how they were.. That's also when I decided to wrap the "hamburger" and keep it under pressure before slam the tabs open and have a way to prevent UFO's, as I knew there was a spring inside, but not much more.. Turns out not to be that wild! Once open, you discover it's not that of a puzzle. all you see is a piston with the rubber diaphragm, a spring and the rod that you saw going into the master cyl. And good news, as said above, the spring isn't that strong. In my case, as expected, even if I had removed loads, there was still plenty brake fluid. and while its not relly obvious on the pict, the corrosition where that matters the most (where the rubber seals), big chunks of rust had started to even ent rthe rubber. In this case, I was right on time, it will need some serious massage to ensure proper contact, but nothing really hard, also easy to reached. The fun continues! Time to remove the old paint( s) and inspect where the metal is really pitted and prep the guys for an acid bath... Once more my new German friend paint remover did that painlessly and ended end up the raw steel and rust. Spread over a few days, it's been about bathing in acid, remove the most of the pits, polish parts... At some point found out that kit isn't the right one :( Most parts like the valves rubbers are, but the diaphragm is different. Some reaserch online showed me there are 71 bendix models and 71-73 bendix models. As David aka @Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs told me it did fine for his 73, I guess I was having the 71 only model which isn't having the same piston shape. (as you can see above the profile is different) But good news is that the original rubber, in the nowadays very expensive PPPP rubber quality, was as new after a good clean. I only needed to give it extra love at the contact locations where the rust tried to push itself into it. Carefully massaging it with cloth with solvant gave me a clean smooth contact surface there. So I wasn't too disappointed the new ones were not fitting. I did not manage to free the valve from the rod, locked by a mechanism similar to engine valves and some weird pin. Too afraid to break the bakelite as it's really not ment for maintenance. Especially after a good inspection and clean up with brushes and alcohol where all looked fine, not even sure the rubber valve of the kit was the right one either, I saw no reason to risk ruining the party. If someone knows the procedure to open it, please come forward as I have a 73 to do as well! :D sssssh, bublubblebubble, zzzzziiiiii, pssshii, zzzz, weeeeee.... lots of bubbles, friction and spray noises further, the love I gave to it started to be visible... Then it was time to put it all back. Knowing exactly where it was supposed to go helped greatly and once all the freshly plated and rubbery folk was sandwiched back and secured again on my bench, the tabs needed be pushed back. David warned me I might break one or 2, but none did. I even hammered them extra to even increase the pressure and in matter of minutes I ended up with a reassembled booster. Basic pressure test told me I should be good, but I will as soon as weather permit will connect it on my 73 and let the engine run a bit to see if it really works. If it passes, it will receive as soon as the weather permits it, a good spray. Together with other few details that need to be done in same colour. For now, under a zinc jacket, it can wait. New stuffs really need be handled, top left you see that new tie rod end (that I forgot to order with the others that came last week) was already starting to rust. So after derust it also received primer, paint and coat. Each rod also got its threads plated and ended up with tie rod assembly that was looking as they should have. Found out that the idler arm bracket from Moog's, wasn't machined completely to match the long bolts going thru the frame, so carefully drilled and filed to match using the old one and been able to install the idler arm as well without damaging the paint. Another empty box could leave the garage yeeah! :D After some gym session, loads of elbow oil, I finally could see all these goodies assembled together. Only lightly tighten as I have a few more to connect on the other side. Really pleased with the results so far! I did more stuffs that I have skipped for this already way too long update, but here's a glympse of my next patient and what you might see next time... To be continued...
    4 points
  18. Been busy.. Installed a new idiot light to tacho / idiot light conversion from RCC Innovations. Works perfectly. Then installed a new front spoiler. Very happy with the new look.
    4 points
  19. I'm running 255/60R15 on 15X8 w/4.25" backspace in the front. I get a slight rub in the frame rail by the steering box on hard left turns. Reminder not to use original alignment specs with radial tires. You want as much positive caster as can be dialed in. If the tire makes contact with the front valance, you can rock the upper arm back with shims under the front shaft bolt. This moves the upper ball joint rearward, giving you more positive caster without adjusting the strut rod. https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/
    4 points
  20. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
    4 points
  21. Hello,I'm still at it.I'm currently working on the outer wheel house filler panels. I have the drivers side fit tight to the quarter and tacked in. Now to do the passenger side then to weld them in. I also made the front and rear flares even larger to better fit the larger wheels.The fronts are done and just have to be edged and I'm working on the rear.The rears also need to be edged.
    3 points
  22. Hello! I recently bought a 1972 Mach 1 and absolutely love it. I have always been partial to 1971-73 Mustang, so it feels great to finally own one of my dream cars. Until now I have been in the Foxbody world, having owned 2 mid-80s Mustangs and a 1981 Capri. My 72 was restored before I bought it, and is in very good driving condition but I don't have a lot of details about its history. I will be ordering a Marti Report. It is an H-code car but currently has 4V heads, Edelbrock Performer-4V intake and Holley 750 carb. Looking forward to learning more about tuning carburetors. I will be doing little things like restoring the engine bay to a more stock appearance (getting the ram air plenum/air cleaner assembly; relocating all the aftermarket MSD ignition stuff somewhere else so I can put the window washer reservoir back where it goes, etc). The interior is in really good shape, but the former owner cut the radio bezel to put in a modern din stereo. I ordered a replica bezel and am looking for an oem radio, preferably the 8-track stereo. I will probably hide a newer stereo in the glove box or somewhere to plug in an iPod. Not a big fan of the Custom Sound replica radios. They look pretty good, but I would prefer the original. I'm looking forward to learning and sharing information about these cars and participating in the discussions on the forum!
    3 points
  23. 3 points
  24. I put the console where it fit the shifter well , with painters tape under the screw holes in the console and marked each one with a sharpie. from there I removed the console and heated a piece of 3/16'' brake tubing with no flare red hot and simply melted thru the carpet. Stinky and hard on the eyes, but very effective, just drilled my holes from there, I could actually see where the screws needed to go. That's all I am willing to confess to today.
    3 points
  25. Found this vintage gem of a book and had to share.
    3 points
  26. Took a day off work today and spent some time in the garage working on the 65. Got it pretty much all put back together. Still have the exhaust to finish up, some interior work, and it needs a good bath and cleaning. It fit back together pretty decent. I would of aligned stuff a little better if I was painting it but there’s only so much you can do without hurting the paint. Hopefully get it lined up next week and she will be back on the road.
    3 points
  27. Without you knowing you are being a car importer that test drives his cars for a couple months before selling them.
    3 points
  28. TMeyer is getting close to producing a new cast iron Cleveland block.
    3 points
  29. WAITING!! It's creeping up on 11 years.
    3 points
  30. Harvested some bugs today with the radiator. Drove the car about 120 miles over a 4,310’ pass. Was fun but LOUD with no interior or glass
    3 points
  31. Finished the refurbishing and reinstalling on the 71 Standard Interior (Base) Convertible rear seat side panels. Faux speakers covers are gone and the interior is now back to factory appearance. A bit of delicate work, I changed over the new (at the time) side panel wind lace and the new top window felt piece (I even reused the original staples from the factory so the appearance is correct). I installed new (3 pcs. On each panel) tonneau cover buckle snaps as well. A nice job to finally have completed and I can now enjoy looking in the back seat area…
    3 points
  32. Installed a fuel pressure regulator. Actually took a fair amount of tinkering to cram it in there.
    3 points
  33. Put the top down and took the pooch for a ride
    2 points
  34. Is this your wedding ring on the fender?
    2 points
  35. Would it be going too far if I pulled the Marti report and tracked down the guy who did the spot welds on the floor pan? He deserves a good hard slap across the face. Took me hrs to pull the driver side pan, not to mention the cuts and burns. Passenger side was very easy to remove.
    2 points
  36. It's more about the time you want to put in it than money. There is tons to do on this one tho (seen the vid). As I always say to myself, no matter if okish, bad or worse, they all need the same amount of paint in the end :D Good luck!
    2 points
  37. Here is the kit I used for mine. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-94270be/media/images/make/ford
    2 points
  38. Yep all you need these days is a 10mm socket.
    2 points
  39. I think you need a Boss 351 Convertible, with the Frank Cone option. There are a few listed around here...
    2 points
  40. ... after more than 3 years of hard, hard restoration work (see my pictures in the GARAGE section) I enjoy with my wonderful wife the power and beauty of our orange 1971 C351-4V RAM AIR MACH 1 just anywhere on the road. This car was forgotten for a long time -burried in a dark garage for 31 (!) years long- and now this MACH 1 is on the road again. Loud and proud. I took these pictures ON THE ROAD in the last months in Switzerland where we live ... we share this with you and we hope you can feel the good vibrations of our MACH 1 world ...
    2 points
  41. Exhaust manifolds for this cat. My opinion is admittedly very subjective. I like driver cars and headers have caused me too many headaches in the past. To be fair, I’ve never sprung for really nice ceramic-coated ones (though the ones I used were not cheapo ones either) so they quickly became rusty eyesores that kicked off too much heat and noise. Great on a dyno I guess - and the track of course - but I found they can easily rob the low end if not set up correctly... I just prefer the manifolds as a result.
    2 points
  42. Me too! I can write everything off now, right?
    2 points
  43. USN 1984 to 1995. Jet engine mechanic "Aviation Machinist Mate First Class" Worked on E2C Hawkeyes and C2 aircraft.
    2 points
  44. Yeah, that's a mess. As Don noted, that's your voltage regulator and it's originally mounted below the starter solenoid. You also didn't tell us what it is, or isn't doing. IMO, you should spend some quality time cleaning up your wiring. Reproduction alternator harnesses are about $40. Re-crimp the wires with new terminal ends and adhesive heat shrink. If you don't dive in and make it right, you'll be chasing electrical problems forever.
    2 points
  45. In the midst of the obligatory hurricane in the middle of a moonless night on a steeply banked hill on the interstate with very narrow shoulders and a totally uneven surface...? You know if it is needed those will be the conditions!
    2 points
  46. I as well did SEM hot rod black. I believe the original black is more flat.
    2 points
  47. Sure. A few people have mentioned power or handling, not being quite to their liking. Well, I like the car, for what it is, and what it is not. I don't drive like I'm on a road course, and, at the legal speed limits, the car is completely acceptable. I am not emotionally or attentively involved, when driving a new car....they're nothing special and nobody cares. I used to drive a 1930 Model A Ford as my daily driver. It rode bouncy, no radio, no heat, no a/c, ancient steering, etc, but man, did I love to drive it. I might make minor upgrades or adjustments to my car, but it will never be like a new car, and if you don't understand the feeling, the joy of owning and driving an old car, maybe you're in the wrong hobby. Oh yeah, there's this....
    2 points
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