Jump to content

Leaderboard

  1. Hemikiller

    Hemikiller

    Tech Advisors


    • Points

      9

    • Content Count

      2,847


  2. Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs

    • Points

      8

    • Content Count

      7,318


  3. Stanglover

    Stanglover

    Site Supporters


    • Points

      7

    • Content Count

      4,394


  4. secluff

    secluff

    Site Supporters


    • Points

      7

    • Content Count

      2,724


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/09/2021 in all areas

  1. Hey guys! So I tackled a project this morning and was taking some video explaining what I was doing to someone and they suggested I make a video! so here we go! ACP # FM-BI009 lens hope this helps you guys.
    3 points
  2. Paid a visit to the machine shop today, my engine is alive and everything looks good. He ran in the cam and did some break in work to get the rings seated. Readjusted the valvetrain and started with some tuning. We did the first untuned short pull and it came up lean. He's going to jet up the carb and do another couple pulls to see where it likes the timing. We'll then swap to my carb and tune that in, test spacers and go from there. PXL_20210114_230901693.mp4
    2 points
  3. Did someone say polyester? How about moustaches and sideburns? Photo is '73, I'm on the left, with my brother and sister. Eegads!
    2 points
  4. The blackout was sprayed on the rear underside of the hood on all 71-73 Mustangs. Ford felt that the open area created by the new cowl parking wipers was distracting and was treated to the blackout paint on all light colored cars.
    2 points
  5. JPEG for those who can't open a TIFF Nice ride! From the good ol' 1/4 mile days before this 1,000 foot nonsense.
    2 points
  6. Yes - crank degrees. If you are running 36 initial timing figure your max to be around 50 degrees give or take a few depending on the adjustable module make. Most are around 14 to 16 crank degrees total.
    2 points
  7. When you clean up all the window tracks, guides and wheels I think the Lucas Red N Tacky #2 is much better choice for either power windows or manual. Will be as smooth as glass. You can get in tubes, plastic tube and also aerosol. I use it all over the cars. https://lucasoil.com.au/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease
    2 points
  8. These bumpers are rigid by comparison to modern plastic bumper covers. If you hit it hard enough that it needs flex additive you have probably caused more damage than just the paint.
    2 points
  9. Wimbledon White is an off white. Hard to tell from pics, but it looks about right to me.
    2 points
  10. That is what I said........sort of lol.
    2 points
  11. Wimbledon white is definitely not a bright white, but is creamy. You can see the difference in this color sheet. By memory it's even a little more creamy than shown here.
    2 points
  12. Got a bunch of the engine externals put back together; fuel line, spark plug wires, heater hoses and valves, alternator/regulator and wiring, engine bay wiring harnesses, etc. Unfortunately I am heading to warmer climes until April so nothing more is going to happen until then.
    2 points
  13. Geoff, as suggestive as some advertising can be, something as blatant as this would never have made it through the "Suits" at Ford. This one would have had as much chance of being approved in 1968 as it would have today. Zero! While in my teens and twenties' I did have a couple of A$$ H**e Bosses I could have nominated for this program!! Below is the actual '68 Ranchero advertisement.
    2 points
  14. Thanks for the update. Gotta say, the dash is looking pretty sexy! Your project is looking great!
    1 point
  15. I bought the repop hood trim and had to cut it to clear the front lip on the hood. There are two different styles as you've found out. I acquired a nice straight original hood trim, that I plan to use in the future.
    1 point
  16. Looking good as usual. I can't wait to see how the dash turns out. You might be starting a new trend. From what I have read on this site the only way to adjust the curvature of the hood is to bend it. David - "Carolina Mountains Mustangs " has mentioned that it is the way to adjust them. He would be able to tell you how to go about it.
    1 point
  17. Looking good! Is the front hood trim a reproduction? I ran into this on mine with the non Ford tooling reproduction part. I ended up getting the Ford tooling piece, fit was much better. On the hood, my reproduction hood had the arch in the middle. I ended up using shims under the fender bolts to get a better fit. Fit was much better. Ryan
    1 point
  18. Your car looks like it is coming along nicely. You probably know this already but here a reminder that the rear underside of the hood near where the wipers disappear is painted black on lighter color cars. I have a pic somewhere from my original paint car that I'll post if I can find it.
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. A flat-rate estimate is a good start, it will provide you with a minimum. If you are considering to get your dollars worth, you should also know that the camshaft should always be degreed to verify timing, and you'll want to do this with the right head ( #1 cylinder exposed) off, to dial indicate #1 piston TDC. Flat rate won't include degreeing the cam. Installing the timing set "dot-to-dot" is throwing power away 75% of the time. I've found, that occasionally all of the variables ( cam gear dowel hole, crank gear keyway, accuracy of cam grinder's indexing, etc.) , can stack up against each o
    1 point
  21. I really like the Wimbeldon White, over a brighter white. I think it's classier....sort of a color you might see on expensive Pebble Beach cars, as opposed to an inexpensive import car white. It has a "surfboard white' kind of hue.
    1 point
  22. All I used was a pair of wise grips. Pics of the torsion bars were recently in a post. On my car, it had a repro spoiler which was lighter than the factory original I now have on. I had to max the tension to get the trunk to stay open without hitting me on the head..... and that has happened.
    1 point
  23. Thanks for the help. I will look into those covers. Stanglover, great looking car. I started to blackout the hood when I painted, but decided, with feedback from family to keep the original look.
    1 point
  24. Very very nice. I'm not a big fan of yellow color cars but on ours with the black lower and side stripe it makes them pop.
    1 point
  25. I got that maybe seven years ago. Cost me near $500 to have it boxed, properly, and shipped here. The seller treated it like a piece of fine crystal, which it is. mike
    1 point
  26. Back in the day when built Ford did add a flex agent to the paint for rubber parts. On special paint color cars, colors not in brochure, they put chrome bumpers on the 71 & 72 cars with special paint. The 1973 did not have both types of bumpers so they painted the front bumper and the two rubber filler pieces at ends of the rear bumper with Argent paint with flex agent. They did not want to have to specially mix all the odd colors. It tells on the build sheet to add Argent front bumper. Check with you paint supplier they should know if there is a need for an additive or not.
    1 point
  27. For sure the Wimbledon white is not a pure white. If I remember correct they even put black in the mix. Has been my experience with adding clear coat it makes the pure white yellow looking. Digital pics are also deceiving. The color in digital pics is subject to what the computer in the camera sees and then what my computer sees when I view. A real photograph is exactly what was there. Wish I had my Kodachrome again, use to spend hours in dark room. I would go back to the place you got the paint and have them make sure they mixed correct. The other question I would have is do you have good c
    1 point
  28. The black will help set it off. My Sprint is WW (9A) and looks good with the red/blue colors. If the whole car was plain white it would be too plain.
    1 point
  29. Did you think to compare pictures of the two. Is there a chance you happened to have been shipped the wrong one and you didn't realize? Hemikiller just changed one after 15 years, so I hope the one I get outlasts the time I'll own the car. There are alternative manufacturers for similar fan clutches. Rock Auto list 3. Hope I made the right choice.
    1 point
  30. For whatever it is worth it I used a Hayden 2710 with a Flex-a-lite 14544 1/2" spacer, a 3-core radiator and stock fan. The fan sticks out about 1/3 out of the shroud. I can't say that this will be the same in every car. At least in my case, my drivetrain is at a little steeper angle than stock due to the TKO600 which changes the fitment of the fan.
    1 point
  31. It is yellow/gold zinc dichromate you have to look for, like these https://missourimustang.com/1971-73-fender-bolts-dichromate/ Hope, that helps!
    1 point
  32. Sorry to hear but I guess you had your reasons. What did you get in place of her? Don't be a stranger and visit us once in a while. Good luck on your next venture.
    1 point
  33. Hello Fabrice, Yes, I'm still alive and way behind on your project, but I WILL let you know more, hopefully, tonight. (And I know you've heard that before...but I am working on it)!!! As I replied in a post to 7173Vert, there a few things on this vert that are not OE. None that couldn't be changed if that is your desire. The front spoiler was standard and only available on the '71 Boss 351 and was never a standalone option on any other 71-73 Mustang. Once again a very popular dealer over the counter item, I sold plenty of them! The distortion could be from some not property aligned drill
    1 point
  34. You could go electric only too. I see mine with both, that when I shut the car when it was at operating temp, the electric fan starts few seconds later, runs a few and stops. Pretty sure I could run the car with that one only, at least during winter.
    1 point
  35. Chris, there are two versions of the 2710, one thermal, one not. I think you have the non-thermal one. It says right in the description about the non-thermal staying engaged. As for a spacer, I think that refers to the length of the shaft on the fan clutch and not an extra separate spacer added. The 2765 from what I was able to figure out, has a shorter shaft, but again as this one was intended for a Jag, it may require a different bushing to size the hole to fit the Ford water pump. That's what I think it means anyways. For the mounting studs, I am going to use 5/16' fine thread G8 bolt
    1 point
  36. Welcome from west Michigan!
    1 point
  37. Welcome from Illinois! I do like the color of your car.
    1 point
  38. Hello.I don't know if anybody here has ever seen this.I found this on the good old interweb.It's about taking Vette steering box parts and with a couple modifications you can put them into the Ford manual box for a 16:1 ratio.Which is the ratio that where in the 69/70 TA boxes.I did check out the part numbers and they are legit,actually you can by kits with all the parts in them to rebuild a Vette box.I also believe that KK would have figured this out and used it.This is the new steering box plan.
    1 point
  39. Cool copper colour. I think the stripe works on that colour. Looks good. Welcome from Toronto, Ontario.
    1 point
  40. Well, I do wash my car. Living here in Los Angeles, the mild weather allows me to park outside 365 days a year. I'd love to park in the garage, but I've got two drag boats in there, and there's no room. So, being outside, it gets dusty when it's windy , it gets wet when it rains, it's in the sun when it's 100 degrees out . It is my only car for the last 30 years now and gets driven every day, to and from work, as well as serving as my tow vehicle for the boats. It is not "baby-ed", but I maintain her better than most. When I wash it, I use a bucket of Zip-Wax liquid car wash, after comple
    1 point
  41. Last winter, I pulled my interior to better insulate my interior ahead of doing a Classic Air install. Since I had it all out, and needed to insulate the roof/headliner area, I took the dive on the TMI one-piece. I like it, it does hug the roof line and offer added headroom. It also looks good (not stock obviously) but I have no regrets. Definitely have a helper - it was a bitch wrangling that thing into place by myself, but still possible. The pre-cut holes for the visors and the overhead cabin light were well placed. In fact, I found that the easiest way to align the headliner was to u
    1 point
  42. 100% custom, a good upholstery shop will make it look great, but doubt you will able to find stock look in the shape Al
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-05:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...