Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/27/2021 in all areas

  1. Then...then....then.... BooooM! ! !...then crack open a beer like a real man
    4 points
  2. In case you're wondering how the mask wearing guidelines are determined
    4 points
  3. I wondered why we don't see Rocketfoot much sometimes ... now we know
    3 points
  4. Not so much a horror story but they did try to swap parts with me. I was building a flathead V-8 and had a crank that was in great shape and never been ground so .010" grind was all that was needed. I have installed the bearings and measured them and had written down the diameters to grind each journal. I always stamp my initials on any parts I leave anywhere. When I went to pick up the crank they bring out a crank and it has been cut .020" or .030" and is not my crank. I demand mine and they say that is the one I dropped off. We were in the shop and I went to the grind area and pointed to a crank and said that is mine. They said not. I told them that if my initials were stamped on the second crank throw I was taking it. I picked it up and there was D.F.F. stamped so I walked out and never went back there. Always mark your parts in some way to identify them. Grind, etch, stamp but mark them and with today's digital photos take pictures. I have never taken many things for others to work on I have always done most of my work. Anyone that does not get a specific written, signed and even notarized contract is asking for issues. If they will not do that you need to go somewhere else.
    3 points
  5. Past weekend was dry, warm... Sooooo: barbecue time!! All the new parts that I've received over past months were either not coated, simply oiled or covered with some poor paint. None had of course the kind of finish I had in mind for them. So spend a good part of my saturday cleaning & degreasing them and mask/tape all the parts I could not remove, rubbers, threads etc.. Then just like the restored parts, they did receive a primer, their respective colors and a nice thick finish coat. Sunday was like xmas, lots to unwrap and it was even time to put some stuffs together, install nipples etc... Reassembled the spindles done last weeks with ther hardware plated last year. Installed all back together after a good cleaning and copper greasing of each thread. Was lots of work to get there, zinc plating them was not the easiest thing to do. But now, boy do they not look like a million??! :D Yes these are the same!! :D I know btw I need some wires for their nuts, Anyone have some info on how it should be done the right way? Never done that before, but really would love to have them "twisted" the right secure way. I will buy some SS wire for that asap. Then it was time to put the top arms together... 50 years old and looking goooood :D Then it was time to put all these babies together back into their original nest that is now making a nice contrast with its semi gloss black. Nothing torqued to specs yet until all is on.. Also gave love to the koni's that were plated last year and gave them the car body color (no red), that will look nice into the light grey coils that were done last week... All with all, it was nice to finally see all the work started last novembre come together! The other side fx is that I could get rid of many boxes and create some welcome space. One regret is that the long part that connects both sides (rod assembly, the drag link I think is the name) is still at a friend's place where it needs to go under press to correct the bow into it created at some point when someone jacked up the car with it... No biggy tho, as once I will have the steering box revised, i will need to paint it as well, so will do both at the same time. to be continued...
    3 points
  6. I installed this clip just as directed by Tim- pushing into the hole and with pliers and squeezing the tabs together. Two photos below. From underneath the car and from the footwell:
    3 points
  7. Well, it's been close to 3 months since I've posted an update, but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything. I've gotten the instrument cluster back together with LED bulbs installed. I got the steering column painted and reassembled, but the turn signal switch is binding, so I'll have to go back through it, one more time. I got the front and rear seats reupholstered with new foam and seat covers from TMI. Most of the wrinkles seen in the picture were worked out, and overall, the seats look pretty good. I also cut open the top of the new fuel tank and installed the new Tanks, Inc. electric fuel pump. I pretty much did what Autoedit did in the YouTube video, except I used a body saw instead of a hole saw, and oriented the fuel reservoir away from the sending unit to keep it from interfering, but otherwise did pretty much the same. A little work with the hammer and dolly got the lip flattened out and lining up with the sealing ring pretty well. Once the steel retaining ring is placed on the inside edge of the hole and the screws tightened down, it straightens the edge up even better. The retaining ring is installed and the screws inserted to secure it. The Viton washers were removed so that they would not get damaged when the retaining ring was tacked into the opening. After tack welding between each of the screw hole locations, the welds were ground down to make the top flush. Then the tank was cleaned with WD-40 and a magnet, plus wiping it out with some paper towels, and then more WD-40. It was a new tank, but I had gotten from a guy on Facebook marketplace, and there was a little but of crud inside it. It wasn't rust, but I'm not sure what it was. It took a little bit, but I was able to get the tank cleaned out really well. Then, it was time for the gasket sealer, top, and all those screws. Overall, the tank came out really well, and I'm pleased with it. Also, I've kept busy, building a motor for the Rickster. With all the Covid stuff going on, it took a while to get the cylinder heads shipped, but I finally got everything I needed. I had to hit up Don at Ohio Mustang Supply a few times for brackets, etc. since some were missing. I got the Power steering pump and brackets from him. It's a 50 year old pump of unknown history, so I went ahead and rebuilt it. Twice. When they say try not to let the spider come apart, there is a reason for that. My first attempt at reassembly, I got it wrong, and after reinstalling the pump discovered it wouldn't turn very easily. I pulled it all apart, went back through it, and found I had the slippers upside down. DOH!!! After the second or third time putting the spider together, I did develop a feel for it, and it's not difficult, but the first time or two, it can be pretty frustrating. Once reassembled, I double checked and it turned easily, and after installation on the motor, it only required 4 in-lbs of force to turn the pulley, well, within the factory spec of 2-15 in-lbs. Tomorrow, I'll post about the engine build but that's enough for now. Except to say, that the paint shop says the Rickster is very close to done, and should be back in my garage in the next week or so. WooHoo!!! Then the real fun begins - reassembly.
    3 points
  8. Well, the forums are full of activity again… 71 Mustangs made 50th anniversary this year … mine turned 50 in May this year, as did so many others … and yes… I made him a cake and we celebrated. fordismyboss has is big block out in public…. Someone, please all the authorities. RIBS, has found holes. I think it’s so people you’ve locked in the trunk… to dispose of later, can breathe. bdennis has gone for amber turn signals … we know Aussies are just a bunch of flashers :-p tony-muscle has to have his nuts tightened because he’s lost his bearings…. I’m sure hot girls are involved in this somewhere. Galucha Is fiddling with his suspension … oh NO ! ! ! ! please don’t turn it into a low rider. Stewart, Has come in as new member from Aus (…do you come from a land down-under?) and brought ”funnel web spiders” with him … just don’t get into his car without a full security sweep first. 73inNH Is trying to get his “rod” and his “bar” into place…. Chat to your girlfriend, she’ll know just how to do that :-p Marty Report postings are up – check out the history… I cant wait for the day when one comes back with “previous owner” Jay Leno. As a passing note…one of the best gentlemen in the business… Dusty Hill of ZZ Top passed away this week. But look on the bright side folks – he lived a full life giving us fantastic showmanship and huge moonshine fuelled rock. View the full article
    2 points
  9. The base configuration has a 3 pin door jamb switch on the driver's side and a 2 pin on the passenger side. However, with the convenience harness as an option, the passenger side door jamb connector plugs into the convenience harness pigtail and a 3 pin actually goes to the door jamb to allow the seat back release to occur when the passenger door opens. The courtesy lights work when either the driver or passenger side doors open allowing current to flow from the green/yellow wire at the door jamb to the black/blue wires, which actually light the lamps.
    2 points
  10. Cool AMX... NOW back to our regularly scheduled programming... LOL!!
    2 points
  11. Installed a USB charger for the cigarette lighter socket with one of these, no change to the socket and this unit fits tight. Pulled out the threaded bit on the lighter knob and epoxied in a cut down male USB plug. Had to make sure all wires were removed to prevent any short circuit; It's only fractionally longer that the original lighter. Looks ok in place and also has an "on" light on the usb adapter. During my re-wire I changed the lighter to switched power so no chance of being left on.
    2 points
  12. I had taken the engine to the machine shop back in early December. They had said it would take about 2 weeks, which turned into closer to 6 weeks. The owner, I found out, was winding down, moving into retirement, and the shop seemed a bit disorganized, but they had gotten decent reviews. Once I got the motor home, I got it on the engine stand, sprayed it with a generous coating of WD-40, and bagged it. Every couple weeks, I would pull the bag off, spray it with more WD-40, and recover it. After the Rickster went off to paint, it was time to get to work on the motor. I cleaned it, checked it, and then cleaned it again. I checked the crankshaft main bearing clearances with plastigage and all were in spec. I checked the rod bearing clearances with plastigage, as well, and all were right on the money. Great!!! Pistons and rings were installed and everything seemed normal enough. Cam installation was straightforward. I installed a Lunati roller cam and lifters. I got the head gaskets and Trickflow cylinder heads bolted on and torqued. The intake manifold was next and that is where things started going sideways. The intake bolts on the Cleveland, of course, are angled, and the intake must be matched to the head quite precisely. I was having no luck getting them to line up. I determined that the manifold was sitting to high. The block had been decked, but only enough to square it. The machinist couldn't remember exactly how much he had taken off, which I found a little concering. Hmmm. I took the intake manifold to the shop, and they informed me that the Edelbrock Performer 2V intake manifold had been previously milled. We decided that they should take .020 to .030 off each side and see where it sat. In the end, they took off .027 off each side, which was needed to true up one side that was out of square. Great. The intake manifold now sits where it need so the gaskets will seal it properly. Before buttoning it all up, though, I measured for new pushrods, which turned out to be 8.100. Got them ordered figuring it would take the normal 2 days to get here. Eight days later, they arrived, having traveled across much of the USA. Pushrods installed, roller rockers installed and lash set, and finally, the valve cover gaskets can go on. But wait, the rollers are keeping the stock valve covers that I had thoroughly cleaned, removed dents, and painted. The right side actually fit, but the driver side was definitely interfering. New valve covers were ordered and arrived a few days later. I got them intalled, and they fit fine, but seem kind of tall. I am going to use the FAST EZ EFI system, because I have it from an older project that stalled out a few years back. I put the throttle body on the intake and set the ram air cleaner box on it, only to find that it fouled on the valve covers. Soooo, I ordered a 1/2" spacer and now have a maybe 1/4" clearance. With all that sorted, I got the distributor which had a busted vacuum advance nipple, so I got a new vacuum advance for it, I got the tiny clip removed and then the first screw. Both screws were rusty, but the first one came out okay, taking my time and using penetrating oil and heat. The second screw decided to just wring off about halfway down the hole. I tried to drill it out, but the drill bit broke off, so I have been fighting the thing fixed for 6 or 7 weeks now. I took it to a local machine shop, but they were too backed up to help me out. They did tell me, though, that the machine shop had done the machine work on the block had had a lot of problems with quality control lately, and had ruined a few blocks and cylinder heads. I felt okay about the crank and rod bearing clearances, but hadn't checked the bores. Soooo, off comes the intake, valve cover, rockers and pushrods, cylinder heads, etc. I got out the dial bore gauge and micrometer, and measured each bore at the bottom, just above the piston, middle of the run and at the top of the bore, front to back, and side to side. Six measurements on each cylinder. Each cylinder was pretty uniform, with the 48 measurements ranging from 4.03035 to 4.03102. Most of the cylinders were within about .00030 to .00040, although some of that can be just variation inherent in measuring the diameter of a cylinder. I am satisfied, though, that they didn't screw it up, so I got new intake manifold gaskets, and got the motor put back together, once again. Back to the distributor, I finally found a machine shop that said they might be about to repair it, so I'm hoping that in the next few days, I'll get good news from them. Then I can get the distributor rebuilt, and installed. I did look into a new Pertronix billet distributor, but it didn't fit under the air box. I just found that they do make shorter Pertronix distributors, but at this point, I'm waiting for the machine shop. So that is my engine building saga. Thanks to Don at Ohio Mustang for helping me out with AC and power steering brackets. It's coming together, slowly, but surely. Hopefully, the Rickster will be back soon, and we can get that motor filling the engine bay.
    2 points
  13. My intention this weekend was to dig my back window out of my closet and get it ready for install. Instead I did the throttle cable and charcoal canister .
    2 points
  14. Motor came apart today. He found one bad rod bearing, said the crank measured out fine and will just get polished up. Out of an abundance of caution, he's disassembling the engine, performing a complete inspection and will clean out all the oil passages. He's a bit baffled by the bearing failure, but agrees it must have happened on the dyno. Told him that I had to adjust #3 intake, even though he had run through the valves several times, so a thorough inspection of the cam in lifters is also in order. If there is even the least bit of suspicion about them, they'll be replaced.
    2 points
  15. Hi.it's been a little while. A couple things.I did figure out how to keep the coil springs in the front of the car.I am currently working on those parts and of course will post pics when I am done. I took a little break from the car because the spring thing was driving me nuts. I'm one of those people that will work till the point of mental exhaustion to figure out a solution to a problem.But in the two weeks that I really didn't touch the car. I bought a 73 AMX,360, 4speed, Go Pack car,that's eventually going to become the street car my Mach1 was going to be.And while messing with the AMX I got over the mental block I had with the Mustang.So when I get the coil spring maker not falling outters installed I will be moving on to the wheel flares.So here is the AMX.I don't think anybody on here will mind one little ole pic of an AMC....................oh ya...........NO Trans Am mods to the AMX ,I promise.
    2 points
  16. If you know a veterinarian you might want to borrow a pair of their shoulder length rubber gloves and wear a rain coat and face shield. No matter how long you let it set and drip dry you'll still get rained on by fluid when you start removing screws and nuts on the valve body.
    2 points
  17. Took him to a show. He got surrounded by a whole bunch of farting little Brit cars and Euro-boxes
    2 points
  18. Well, today I moved to the other end of the powertrain. I removed the factory 2.75 one-wheeler-peeler and installed a new 3.81 Eaton Truetrac rear end that I purchased from Quick Performance. First I pulled the axles. Here's what the diff looks like after 48 years. I spent more time removing the old gasket that all the rest of the job combined! Since the new gasket ran me $20!!, I figured it deserved a photo of it's own: And now the finished install. Damn was it heavy. Heavier than the Tremec transmission. Tomorrow I plan to tackle the rear brakes, install new axle seals, and put the rear end back together so I can lower the car and measure for the new driveshaft.
    2 points
  19. Hello everyone, i want to apologize in advance, im new here and if i do anything wrong or if my spelling isn’t that great, english is not my first language! so to make a long story short, a while ago my dad passed away and left me a 1973 mach 1. It was his life work, he has been working on it since before i was born, my childhood is full of memories of me ”helping” him work on it. He almost got done restoring it. The only thing left is the interior. It is now my time to pick up the torch and complete this restoration and its very.. overwhelming. where do i even start? I work as a car mechanic and hope to figure stuff out as i go, but where do i even start? i have attached some pictures of the current state of the interior as well of some parts that have been removed. Are you supposed to put insulation under the floor mat? it looks like insulation have been removed on the roof, should i put insulation on the roof? any help would be greatly appreciated! or if anyone have suggestions in what order i should do stuff and whatnot. any links to information would also be appreciated, my google skills are not the best. and again, sorry if i post this in the wrong place or anything like that best regards, Alex. EDIT: dont know where i got -73 from, pretty sure its a -71
    1 point
  20. I have shorty headers and can drop the box out the bottom. For 1sostatic…
    1 point
  21. I bled the brakes. I used the vacuum method. All in all I fed about a quart of DOT 3 into the system. I will use the two person pedal method to confirm all the air is out before driving the car. Now with brakes bled and the heater core replaced, I put the strut braces back in place, ran new vacuum hoses and finished up the engine bay. Ha! I've been looking all over for my missing deep 11/16" socket, and after posting up this photo I notice it is sitting on the washer fluid bottle. Mystery solved!
    1 point
  22. Jason- I have a set of the original Ford Shop Manuals that I bought direct from Ford back in 1975. They came in a five volume set and I use them most every day I work on the car. I highly recommend them. It looks like NPD sells a repro: https://www.npdlink.com/product/shop-manual-printed-1973-ford-mercury-car/138046?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshop%2Bmanual%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1973&year=1973 If the above repro is anything like the repro I recently bought from them for the 1970 model year, the repro is just as the original but they combine volumes into a couple of bindings instead of separate books for each volume. The separate bindings are easier to lay out flat on a workbench but other than that the repros are just like the originals. Worth the $ if you are planning to get serious!
    1 point
  23. You guys are just going to have to get used to me mentioning the AMX every once in a while,it's part of the family....LOL...................AND NOW,back to our regularly scheduled program.I've been working on this problem for about a month...ish.And yes while messing with the AMX it did hit me,and I knew what I was going to do.The stock suspension sits on the frame at full droop,so why not build mounts the bolt to the car,just up higher in the chassis to make up for the shorter spring.So here we are.The chassis brackets are short enough to allow the spring to to removed and installed. Then bolt on the stop brackets and done. They hold tension on the spring so it can't rotate in the seat or fall out of the car.Everything is made of 1/8'',with 5/16'' grade 8 fine thread bolts.I left my self enough material to install 2 more bolts per side and upgrade them to 3/8th if I wanted to.There is no deflection in the mounts and it works like it should and looks like it belongs on the car.
    1 point
  24. Sport lamps are in the grill, the one below the bumper are running and turn signal lights.
    1 point
  25. Yeah, well mine isn't original. Best I can tell is it's from the '78 era.
    1 point
  26. Enjoy the new top, even if it will be folded most of the time!!! LOL
    1 point
  27. I did a lot of little things to the car today; filled the radiator, cleaned up the wiring behind the dash, fitted a new lens to the instrument cluster (waiting for new bulbs before re-installation), topped the transmission fluid, and made up a little wiring harness to connect the new T-5 transmission to the factory automatic transmission wiring harness:
    1 point
  28. I have posted several times. Here are pics of a NOS set of speakers. If you find the old speaker frames they can replace the cones done all the time. I just bought two doors last week that had door speakers and Power Windows difficult harness to find for sure.
    1 point
  29. On the radio back from my garage I heard about the passing of ZZ Top's bassist Dusty Hill today, very sad news. Been my favorite band for over 30 years, seem 'm live 3 times and got the ZZ hangin' off my Mustang's keys. I do believe they hold the record for the band with longest original members, that timer has now stopped... Sad.
    1 point
  30. I hope they lay that sharp dressed man down to rest with a pair of cheap sunglasses on him.
    1 point
  31. Sorry, just looked at this, below is the rod: https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2488 and these I think are the bushings: But it looks like Don doesn't have them at the moment
    1 point
  32. We've been loosing a lot of these classic rock icons lately, sad stuff indeed. Most new music is complete garbage.
    1 point
  33. Three plants built Mustangs - San Jose - R, Metuchen - T and Dearborn - F. San Jose stopped Mustang production prior to the 71 model year. Metuchen stopped Mustang production on Dec 23, 1970 (my Mach was built 12/22/70) and Dearborn was the sole Mustang plant from then until the end of 73 model year production. Dearborn did build Cougars concurrently with Mustangs, as noted with the 5xxxxx unit numbers. Lorain, Ohio - H, and Atlanta, GA - A, built the Torino & Montego in 71, so what one may think to be and "F" might actually be an "H".
    1 point
  34. I could use a couple cans of r12.
    1 point
  35. Test fitting everything today. A couple of things I've noticed. 1: the gas tank straps are going to have to to in before the watts bar as it looks like the bar sits right beneath them. 2: not going to be able to use the factory brake line support bracket as the 3rd link bar needs to go where it is. Going to have to do some creative brake line rerouting. Next step is to take out the pinion snubber plate that's welded in the transmission tunnel with a spot weld drill, then I can actually bolt the watts bar and 3rd link bar to the frame.
    1 point
  36. This just so happened to arrive in the mailbox today….Looks like my car has a twin somewhere out there! I hope it’s still out there galloping!
    1 point
  37. Me and a couple of guys from work on Friday.
    1 point
  38. When I stated sanding on the 1972 Q code vert I bought as a failed restoration I found the drivers door NOT SO GOOD. He had done some patching on the rusty bottom and there was way too much body filler for my taste. So taking that door off is what finished my neck off. I have been looking everywhere, facebook marketplace and Craigslist for a better door. Most were just as bad as what I have. Then last week I found a pair of doors with power windows and he had the rear PW also. So I went and picked them up on Friday. Was sitting parked on I-40, due to a crash miles ahead, and it was 95 deg. My truck AC does not work so I was cooking. It got to 98 before I headed back home. The doors are pretty solid, tearing them down now, and I will only need the drivers door as far as I know. The Power Windows will go to Ebay. I needed the rear switch bases but only one was present in this set. It was also a door speaker car so the wire harness for the front doors includes the door speakers which if very difficult to find. The front bezels are there but for sure not pristine would need a re plate to be show quality. He did not have the under hood and under dash part of the wire harness so no solenoid. The guy selling the parts was clearing out his dad's hoard of parts and cars. He had over 200 cars and all but a few are gone. Even had 1932 and 1934 fords. He said they were the only two cars that actually brought more money than his dad paid for them. He backed up the fact that all the old guys are dying off and getting lower and lower prices for the older cars. He said the 55, 56 and 57 cheys he had brought way less than his dad paid for them years ago. The last two mustangs he has is a 1966 vert that was a T code 6 cylinder with bench seat. I looked at it but not worth even $500, no title and not door tag but the VIN# is still in the inner fender so you could get title. No engine and had automatic shifter but had clutch pedal. He is due to send me pics of the 1966 fastback he has that I have interest in for a flipper. I have several people searching for them of course. He had two more Fords I was interested in but he would not let me see them. A 1949 Ford Woodie Wagon and a 1951 Mercury Woodie Wagon. The Mercury would be a real find. I do not think I have ever seen one in person. He said his wife wants that one. When I get the Power Window stuff boxed up for Ebay will send link to ad. Oh BTW one guy on Marketplace wanted $800 for a bare door nothing but the door and not that great. I drove back through Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, Tenn.. WOW were the tourists out by the thousands. Saw one lone elk in a field just before getting to Cherokee.
    1 point
  39. Takes after grandpas beer belly 😂
    1 point
  40. A Trip To The Doctor's Office An 85-year-old man went to his doctor's office to get a sperm count. The doctor gave the man a small jar and said, "Take this jar home and bring back a semen sample tomorrow." The next day the 85-year-old man reappeared at the doctor's office and gave him the jar, which was as clean and empty as on the previous day. The doctor asked what happened and the man explained: "Well, doc, it's like this - First I tried with my right hand, but nothing. Then I tried with my left hand, but still nothing. Then I asked my wife for help. She tried with her right hand, then her left, still nothing. She tried with her mouth, first with the teeth in, then with her teeth out, and still nothing. We even called up Arleen, the lady next door and she tried too, first with both hands, then an armpit and she even tried squeezin' it between her knees, but still nothing." The doctor was shocked! "You asked your neighbor?" The old man replied, "Yep. And no matter what we tried, we still couldn't get the jar open." HaHa - What were you thinking?
    1 point
  41. Look guys -- I'm glad in a way If these cars were so famous - say Marty McFly said the words "...you built a time machine ....out of a Mach 1?" then I wouldn't be able to afford any of them
    1 point
  42. One gripe only !........ the placement of the fusebox What asshat decided that sticking it under the dash, right around the corner at the right hand side tucked up close to the steering column "in the dark", was a good idea? How deranged do you need to be? Why do we have to stand on our heads with a flashlight ? Not only did they mount it in the most galactically stupid place, but they then did mixed condition on physical size and orientation of fuses to make it even more of an encryption When you need to replace/check a fuse it's nice to see which one - the value - the size - then when replacing, to be able to do it easily, see that it locates good and not have to be a contortionist to get in there. WTF was the designer high on? ..Absinthe, mushrooms..........sniffing glue? ........WHAT ?!!!
    1 point
  43. LOL Thanks for the laugh. If I send you a dollar will you throw it away?
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to New York/GMT-04:00
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...