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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/14/2021 in all areas

  1. Last weekend I pulled the exhaust off. I had "borrowed" this exhaust from a friend in 2003 when I first got it running. Was supposed to be temporary, but life intervened. He had originally installed it on his 67 coupe in high school - back in 1985! Have a pair of the height of early 80's exhaust tech - Sonic Turbos .... I had the guys in the shop make the sheetmetal parts for me. I designed them in 3/16 steel - it might be a bit overkill. Bent up a set of tubes to test fit. Passenger side fit nice, driver's side not so much. I formed a new driver's side Friday after I
    4 points
  2. Hey guys, Today won't be for asking questions, but more to share my weekend find. My father used to have this yellow/black heavily modified '73 for about 20 years before selling it in 1995. I see an add last Monday with a similar car, only to found out that she was still alive, 20 minutes from my home. I pay a visit to the guy, really friendly man, that decide to keep it finally.
    3 points
  3. Like any little job, it would be easier the second time! But not much to it. Was lucky Motor City Mustang had the pieces I needed! Little by Little, My High School Mach 1 is coming along! Brad
    3 points
  4. 72 Q-code, Ram Air, C6, 3.25:1 Traction Lock, competition suspension, PDB, AM/8 track, instrumentation group, A/C, white with black interior, black top, 15 x 7 Magnum 500s, space saver spare. I bought it in 1977 from the original owner.
    3 points
  5. I have some parts left over from a 71 mach restore as well as stuff I have collected over the years. We are downsizing and and wanted to see if any members in Az may be interested in the whole lot for $350 may have a few more parts laying around.
    2 points
  6. Right now it's just a blunt end cut and "C" brackets that wrap around the rail just below the shock crossmember. I'll probably just do an angle cut at whatever makes sense and cap it with .125" steel. I have a couple other tweaks that I need to make before I'm ready to weld. Had a nice FB Marketplace buy this weekend, responded to an ad for a pair of toploaders and while I was there, also picked up a nice Weiand 351C tunnel ran for dual 4500 Dominators. I'll never use it, but it looks awesome on the shelf....
    2 points
  7. I used this relay pack from Amazon on mine, saves a bunch of time on wiring and the quality is very good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085N87SR3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    2 points
  8. These look pretty sweet. Guy on FB makes them. Now I just have to get my brake lines run and install my red wilwood calipers.
    2 points
  9. So I ended up making a change of plans. I ended up giving my brother the cooler that I had for his '60 Thunderbird since he is going to be putting a C6 into it. And ended up grabbing a B&M cooler instead. But it worked out much nicer in terms of mounting and Im really happy with the final result. It was easier to do braided lines to this, although what I ended up doing was using the factory lines most of the way to the front and then converted them to AN lines. Car is almost fully back to gether. A couple last things with the new radiator and she will be ready for the streets.
    2 points
  10. These days they may add a little bit of COVID to make the sway bars stiffer.
    2 points
  11. These are the JRi (single adjustable) that came with my Maier MOD1 suspension. I still need to test drive the car but from what I hear this is a very high quality brand. Seen here with the Hyperco spring and the new UCA.
    2 points
  12. Biggest thing is to not go too aggressive with your sanding or buffing. ESPECIALLY on corners and edges. Don't run the buffer too fast or build up excessive heat. Its very easy to burn through fresh clear and paint. To be honest if you have never done it before , I probably wouldn't recommend starting on this car! You can do way more harm than good if your not careful. Your water and paper have to stay clean, clean, clean. If your getting dirt nibs out first, make sure they don't stick to your paper because they will scratch the hell out of the clear if they get embedded in the paper.
    2 points
  13. Yes that is a 1971 Maverick Grabber, Grabber Green. I ordered it new has bucket seats floor shift, 250 6 cylinder could not get a 302 in 1971. C-4 grabber hood and rear spoiler, tinted glass, black vinyl top. When looking through the Ford Facts book to order it I noticed you could get HD suspension for $10.00 that gave you 5 lug wheels & 8 inch rear instead of 4 lug so I did that. I do not like AC so I did not order that. Seems like I put about 175,000 miles on it and then just drove to the barn and been sitting since. In 1971 I got in it and just started driving with no certain place to g
    2 points
  14. Brett, Sorry to hear that! Wow that's sad!! I cant believe what people charge for subpar work. I must really need to up my prices!!! You saw the work on the yellow mustang I did the first time painting it. I used all good material PPG products. Did all the disassembly and reassembly along with paint and panel replacements for probably $5k less than that guy charged you. I'm not beating you up, I just feel for ya man. Places like that give guys like me a bad rap. But, I believe the look of the car is really nice. With that being said, I think you will be very pleased once it is wet sande
    2 points
  15. Here, my example, freshly painted, without cutt and buff, 1 layer primer, 2 layers base, 2 layers clear, all in one noon:
    2 points
  16. If you guys were closer I would help ya out in a heartbeat. Good luck in the rest of the build.
    2 points
  17. Brett, first, congratulations to your finished paint job. It is always an overwhelming feeling when it's done and you see it the first time. And I can understand your feelings watching it the second time. You want it good and you paid for it. From the one picture of the rear quarter I must say that is too much orange peel and if the whole car looks like this... that's not a result of a good, experienced professionell painter. What Kilgon said about ist absolutely correct. What your paint guy said is BS. It isn't a factor of money If your clear coat have to look good although higher quali
    2 points
  18. Looks really great from the pics. The price of the paint or clear does not have any thing to do with orange peel. Some paint is more forgiving when spraying but even the cheapest of the lot can be sprayed to look as good as top dollar. Orange peel is caused by a number of things such as cold temperature or a reducer that dries to fast not allowing the paint to flow. Also over spray or too low pressure when spraying are a few of the causes just to name a few. Granted now paint job is 100% perfect but if it is as you described I would push for him to make it right without the extra cost.
    2 points
  19. My lady'S MACH 1 and NOT the painter
    2 points
  20. Holy Shamolee! It's a real Bobby-Dazzler!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    2 points
  21. Interesting... I have never seen this colour on a 71-3 car, at least that I would consider factory. Always black. I need to get out more, I guess. Oh, we have a stay at home order right now so maybe after the middle of May...
    1 point
  22. Mmmmh... I have my old ones which I will change to some unmolested newer ones. The old ones are structurally ok, somebody have cut some holes on the front for the bumper mounts in length otherwise sound. But they are heaaaaavy... Perhaps we can keep in touch
    1 point
  23. That is a single post junction block/terminal that was used on cars with gauges BLOCK ASSY JUNCTION CORRECT STYLE REPRO - #14448-1A - National Parts Depot (npdlink.com)
    1 point
  24. I struggled some but got the brake shoe grinder and roll around table cleaned up and painted. Looks like new. The table has space for the brake lathe also but does not have the up top rear rack for the adapters so going to leave them on two tables. Can use the open space for work area also. I am missing one of the key pieces looks like. There is a rod that goes into a hole in the casting in the yellow part that swings the arch. That sets the top end of the shoe like the pin on the backing plate does. Will see if someone will loan me theirs to copy it and make on. Ammco does not service the g
    1 point
  25. Decided It was time to tackle this project. First off, there is an awesome video from west coast classic cougar about this, and they also have a service to restore your old ones as well if you don’t feel comfortable enough to tackle it. I had 4 motors, one worked. The other better looking one had a damaged armature which you can see in pics. This would cause it to loose contact and intermittently stop working. I pulled apart the other two which were in far worse condition but was able to clean up the armature and put it in and the second one worked! move on to the last
    1 point
  26. Point taken. Maybe it's just me, but I like to see correct (but not necessarily concours) parts where possible in the engine bay. It seem often we are dealing with other peoples "fixes" that are not always appropriate. I had no intention of being offensive.
    1 point
  27. After a little more moving the trans jack and fine tuning, everything lined up and the trans is now installed. Thanks everyone for your advice and assistance on this. Tom
    1 point
  28. So here's the finished watts link.I have loved these cars my whole life,but in building this one I am learning more and more about just how different these cars are from the 70 and earlier cars.They pretty much just share the Mustang name and the control arms pretty much nothing else Mustang applies.When they redesigned the car that included the rear suspension also.It might not look it but it is different.The rear of the springs are mounted higher in the chassis thus lowering the rear of the car as compared to earlier Mustangs. This changes where the roll center is as compared to a 69/70 TA c
    1 point
  29. 1972. 351C 4v ... FMX auto.... Ram Air... Headers... 86K miles... 17" wheels
    1 point
  30. That's the throttle position solenoid, also called the anti-diesel solenoid. The automatic choke is on the other side of the carburetor. The reason Ford connected the automatic choke to the stator terminal on the alternator is because the only time you get voltage to the choke is when the engine is running. The red/yellow hash wire is a key on wire and provides 12 volts when the key is in the run position.
    1 point
  31. My prayers are with you and your family. Tom
    1 point
  32. That is almost the same as mine that is in primer now.
    1 point
  33. Brett, I have just one word " BULLSHIT!" That guy is overvaluing his abilities. I know unless you have it in writing, it's his word against yours, but maybe time to consider legal action or threat thereof. He's trying to rip you off. Although it was back in 2014 when I had my car stripped and repainted, my total bill was just over 10K Canadian! That included cut and buff and help putting it back together. My painter was also a restorer, so had the knowledge and experience. Besides, he was not busy and volunteered to help. There were some issues as mentioned before, but overall I can'
    1 point
  34. Nice to see that he will do that for you. I would ask him if there is anything you can do to help cut the cost down while still getting a good looking finish. Never hurts to ask. I was able to work out a good deal with my painter on the bases that I lay out his business card at any cruise in or show that I go to. He did mess the hood up on the stencil and offer to redo at no charge. After seeing it for a few times I sorted like it so I told him I was fine with the way it is. He said if at any time I change my mind to let him know. This is what good business does for their custo
    1 point
  35. At least I know what mine is worth lol
    1 point
  36. Very nice turtle5353! I read through that build and it helped plan ours. After a couple of back and forth texts that were less than acceptable. The "manager" (a.k.a. my wife) of this project has informed the bodyshop to fix the emblem holes and we will hire a professional to wet sand and buff. He's had her Mach 1 for far too long and it is time it comes home.
    1 point
  37. The car does look good, it just needs finished. No painter worth a damn stops at this point on a car of this caliber. Wet sanding and buffing is the normal next step in the process. Unless it’s a beater car that you run back and forth to work. Better clearcoat does lay down nicer but so can cheaper clear if you shoot it properly. And any clear can be sanded flat and buffed to a glass like finish. I agree the hood will probably crack later down the road. I don’t understand how bodyshops stay in business doing work in this fashion. I spray all my stuff in a small 2 car garage and it comes
    1 point
  38. Did your car come with gauges? The ammeter has nothing in common with the other 3 gauges, which are powered by the instrument voltage regulator. The panel lights may be burned out, improperly installed, or have bad sockets. The tachometer likely isn't connected correctly. Red wire to switched 12 volts, black wire to ground, green wire to negative pole (that connects to distributor) of coil. Make sure you are getting 12 volts to the red wire when ignition switch is on, nothing when switch is off.
    1 point
  39. Ammeter barely moves in the best (worst?) conditions and is independent of the other gauges. You can test the gauges by removing the sending unit line at the unit (e.g. fuel, oil pressure, water temperature) and briefly grounding the plug: the gauge should peg high. If not, the most likely suspect is a bad constant voltage regulator on the back of the dash cluster. This CVR DOES NOT control the ammeter or lights. Just because it is new doesn't mean it is not suspect. I've found the input line into the CVR may have high resistance (more than the 9.5 ohms), but you should still see som
    1 point
  40. Drill out spot welds and remove seat platform and you will have access to good sheetmetal underneath. Cut out old nasty pans, weld in new. Just replace what’s bad.
    1 point
  41. The data came from the Federal Government so it must be right, right? "Trust nothing you hear and half of what you see and you will likely be OK." Chuck
    1 point
  42. I once sat in on a thesis defense where the candidate explained how he was adding crushed used tires to add to asphalt to not only recycle tires but to make the road more durable. Question: does the new concrete still work well for creating shoes for undesirable personnel? Curious minds want to know.
    1 point
  43. Excuuuuuse me ...if you hadn't kicked us out and signed your tatty piece of paper in 1776 - you'd be speaking like this, ordering cream teas and watching Cricket matches ...so p00bah !
    1 point
  44. Wish, I hadnt purchased a rust bucket stang. Life would have been easier buying one like this from the get go. Thanks for sharing!
    1 point
  45. 2021 marks our 50th anniversary together.....she has aged far better than I have!
    1 point
  46. 73 Red, white top, white interior (used to be anyway...), 351C, broken top motor, now it's just a permanent soft-top roof, working on replacing the FMX with an AOD
    1 point
  47. It isn't that great of a picture. It does look worse in person. Our bodyman said the metal is "stretched" badly and that it would require more labor than replacing the whole 1/4. Sure wish I had the skills to do the parts replacing myself as this project has now blown out the budget I had in mind. But I really want this for my wife. So it will be done. I could go on and on as to why I am in a hurry to fix up my wife's Mustang. I'll explain it as simply as possible. Maybe there will be some readers that would get it and most may not; I owe my wife a lot for sticking with me as long a
    1 point
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