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  1. 4 points
    I've said this before on another entry............The new cars do everything better than our old cars,....but who cares? Nobody. Real car people, or, at least "car people", as I have defined in my mind, don't mind the tinkering, the lack of knowlegeable mechanics at their local garage, or the having to special order darned near everything, including tires, for their cars. Others are leasing new cars, perhaps for write-off purposes or maybe work related, but leasing is not owing, it's like dating. Leasing you can walk away from the relationship without being committed to it. Still others, have no mechanical interests, and have difficulty figuring out which end of a screwdriver is held, and will keep driving the car into the ground, or when the ashtray fills up, whichever comes first. Another segment of the population gets a new car for status, to be seen in, maybe to make them feel like they're big shots, and some foolishly think they can handle a fast car like a race car driver and they drive their new car as the assholes they really are. REAL car guys ( and girls) actually own their vehicle, deal with the maintenance, don't care what you think...they like their car. It's more than a car, it's an old friend that you can hang with, and it's more about the soul and personality our old cars have, than the lack of same in a new car.
  2. 2 points
    I got the dimensions for the member wanting to put the door speakers in. I could never find his post with any search. Here is what I have to report for him or her. The hole for the boot in the A-Pillar is 1.250" I measured a car and I also have NOS speaker kits with the instructions in them that say 1.250" What is odd is that the instructions do not give the door hole size. I measured the door and it is 1.910" with caliper. I measured the NOS boot and one end 2.0" and the other 1.75". That is all I can report I just cannot find the original post. Searched for Door speakers, and several other combinations but nothing. here is pics of the Ford install sheet with the NOS speakers and harness. Does not give hole in door size.
  3. 2 points
    Welcome from Central New York. You guessed right about the old guys around here. You'll get help with just about anything you need. Mike
  4. 2 points
    I got some pics of the cooler install and the one I used. I was able to fab up two brackets one mounted to the radiator support and the other goes to the center grill and hood latch bracket. They both used the factory holes so I did not drilling and did not have to add anything that was not already there. The hard lines coming from the transmission in my car had been altered so I just added a barbed hose connection just behind the radiator support and ran flex hose through existing hole in the radiator support. I use the fuel injection hose clamps they are smooth and do not mess up hose. The cooler came with two barbed connectors if I remember correct. I just put a toggle switch down under it and put a fuse connector at the solenoid. I always unhook my battery so have to go under hood anyway. You could put a switch inside if you wanted. I got a couple brass plugs for the hook up to the radiator to close them off. I figure will help keep the trans cooler and take that heat of the radiator also. The return line is cool when I check it. Don't remember who I ordered from.
  5. 2 points
    If there's one thing I've learned over the past 20+ years of frequenting internet forums (and running a few of my own), it's that "no 2 forums are alike," and "if you don't keep up with the updates, you'll lose control in a hurry." Barry saw the writing on the wall with MyBB and took the initiative to move over to the new platform, which in the IT world, is a Herculean undertaking - think of it like taking the biggest salvage yard in a big city and moving it across town - some things might get lost along the way or just left behind, but eventually everybody will figure out where the things they could go straight to at the old place are now located. Just takes a little time. I can also agree that I too, liked the old format better... but that's mostly because we had it so long that it just got comfortable. When we first started with it, nobody knew where everything was and had to do a little exploring to find it all. We'll all get used to it eventually, because that's what we do with these things. For instance, I know I hated when the TV format went from 4:3 to 16:9, but now I can't even really remember how limited it used to be. Lastly, I don't use mobile devices - period. I do all my online stuff from a proper computer, because that's what I prefer. However, I can certainly understand the convenience and familiarity that most people have in using mobile devices, and can also appreciate the ability for the site to be flexible enough to support all of the current technologies out there - it opens our little community up to greater opportunity to expand and enjoy having more friends with similar interests. Hang in there, guys. It really is all for the better.
  6. 2 points
    I was going to adjust the headlights but ended up having a staring contest and I lost. I'll try again tomorrow.
  7. 2 points
    I'll just say "New" doesn't always equate to "Better". I sorely miss the "todays posts" from the old format. The old search function was easier to use as well. I find myself becoming frustrated by my inability to use the various functions and just log off. Chuck
  8. 1 point
    I liked the old site better too. Still can't get used to this new one. I'm on many different boards for many different things, and I thought the old 71-73 site was PERFECT. Best of them out there.
  9. 1 point
    Most newer EFI systems use wideband sensors. The FiTech uses a Bosch as well, but I don't know if it is interchangeable with the Holley. Probably not. In regards to placement, you want it downstream from the collector, but not too far so if it is used for EFI, then the feedback can be as quick as possible. Per example FiTech recommends "The ideal location for the Sensor is 2-4 inches after the exhaust collector." They recommend locating it in the #1 cylinder bank, or passenger side for us. I have always wondered if there is a noticeable difference between banks.
  10. 1 point
    Absolutely a 73. Mine had the vinyl roof and bumper guards when I found it but chose to remove during resto. This is almost like Deja Vu. Had to check my garage to be sure!! Ha-ha.
  11. 1 point
    Properly welded bung located far enough downstream is highly recommended if you go ahead with the sensor. Clamp-on could have the potential to loosen & develop leak if long term. Probably same amount of effort to install either way so its worth installing bung which (if you are just using to do initial tune) can be sealed with screw-in plug when finished. The ability to use O2 sensor with future EFI depends on the system. Holley uses proprietary Bosch sensor which is outrageously expensive, but is the only one the system will function with.
  12. 1 point
    '73 for sure...that half-vinyl roof is something I don't see often, I believe it was an option, but not really sure I've ever seen it on a Mach. Rear window louvers are an obvious owner touch. Nice looking car from what we can see here.
  13. 1 point
    I have had Verticlescope and some other forum buyer company contact me several times trying to buy...but I wouldn't ever do that! (Well maybe if they offered like a million bucks or something, LOL!) But they do tend to kill a forum when they take over! They also convert all forums to vBulletin which is one of the worst softwares out there to use!
  14. 1 point
    You have come this far so don't stop short. Make sure you do it to last. You should be ok using the hat's from cj or any other place. As mentioned above you might want to buy a cowl and piece out what you need. Just make sure that you address all the rusty areas with some type of rust prevention / treatment product. You must remember that unless the vehicle is kept inside and not driven in the rain/snow that the cowl area collects water and is more susceptible to rust than other parts of the car.
  15. 1 point
    A while back I was reading this thread https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/34961-92-gts-rs-project-thread/?do=findComment&comment=366421 and he did some clever things to fix the cowel. Not sure it's totally applicable.
  16. 1 point
    Yea here’s a few pictures of the wheels. They are American Racing wheels I got off of a fox body cobra a few years ago. I think the are 17x12 in the rear and 17x9 in the front.
  17. 1 point
    +1 with tony. I would only drop it as little as possible that is needed to get the switch out. There is a collar plus a plate at the fire wall that also holds the column in place. You don't have to loosen it but you don't want to bend anything down there either. Also make sure when you replace the switch that you adjust so it is indented correctly for the off position. Most new switches come with a "golf tee" that holds the switch in the correct position during install.
  18. 1 point
    Hello and welcome from SW Ontario. Congrats on getting your car on the road, but just remember it probably doesn't handle or brake like a newer car and you'll get NO respect from other drivers these days. Or at least, that's the way it is around where I live. Just allow more space and distance around you. And that is some advice from an "Old Fart" who's been driving these cars for nearly 50 years!
  19. 1 point
    You don't need to completely remove the steering column. Working out of memory here, but you just remove the two bolts that hold the column under the dash, which will drop the column. In my case the column drops until the steering wheel is held by the front seat. You probably don't want to drop it more than that. This would give you enough room to access the ignition switch bolts. When I had problems with my switch I did it a few times this way. A ratchet wrench may be handy. Don't make the mistake of tightening it too much as I did. I ended up braking the stud. It still worked with one stud for a while until I removed the whole column and welded it back.
  20. 1 point
    I have a set of used original style two-piece rotors from a 70-73 that I can measure when I get home from work.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Heres my attempt to video my install of the Hood Lock Kit (32 piece from Ohio Mustang Supplies) since I was not able to find any YouTube videos on this...don't hate... I'm just a learning as I go and sharing back what I am in case someone else can use it -) https://youtu.be/T0qUKwTL43g
  23. 1 point
    I ordered a new Mach 1 in 1973. The day I picked it up huge rain storm I had 2" of water in the back floor from roof rail leak. The farted around trying to adjust the rear window. I have power windows so the rears do roll down. Ford used a real sorry foam tape to half ass seal it out. Clean for assembly line but not very good. If you get NPD catalog they actually tell you not to use the foam tape but use 3-M strip calk which is what I have used for year. It never dries out flexed and there are so many ups and downs in that roof area it needs to conform easily. Here are some pictures of my car. It also has a vinyl roof which has to seal off to the roof rail also. What was really bad is my build sheet was under the carpet and pad on the side that got water so it was ruined the first day I owned. Those big rectangle holes for locating the roof rail are most likely where leak is but you can see all the layers of steel that has to seal. Be sure you get Daniel Carpenter seals they fit perfect. When you take the roof rail off put a screw driver in the screw and hit a couple licks with a hammer to break the rust and use new screws.
  24. 1 point
    My experience with all year Mustangs are that the horn wires within the engine compartment are the same size/gauge. I've never seen or noticed a difference. The driver's side horn should have two wires going to the spade lead and they should both be the same size.
  25. 1 point
    Thought I would update this thread as its been a while. i have been making some progress as i have finished up all the welding of the floor sections and quarter panels. All the body work from the doors back is done with the exception of final primer blocking/seam sealer and final paint prep. I have the hood stripped and in epoxy and picking up the fenders from media blasting on monday. The fenders will just need some minor body work done to them as they were rust free. Hopefully I can get everything ready for paint before long. Kinda getting anxious to get some grabber blue sprayed on it
  26. 1 point
    Got mine this week in France. Fine !! Fits well (I was affraid by the Us/ Europeen size conversion..) Waiting for the next version, with the right side stripe on the 73.. Thanks for the job done, and for allowing us to wear such an original shirt !!
  27. 1 point
    Erikroy yellow wires usually indicate permanent plus (wires #36 or #37). If you do have the three small gauges in the middle of the dash, two yellow wires are the source for the parallel wiring of this gauge. One one them will connect to the left pole of your starter solenoid, where the big red wire from battery is connected, the other one should be connected to the yellow coloured junction block, where also the medium thick black wire with orange stripe is connected. Please check, whether the connector rings will match. Cheers Frank
  28. 1 point
    In addition to what Hemikiller said, you need some way to get current from the alternator to the battery (black/orange stripe). Does your car have factory gauges, aftermarket gauges, or idiot lights? That will determine on how the current winds up to the battery.
  29. 1 point
    B is the Yellow main power lead that traces directly to the fuse block. That wire goes on the front stud of the solenoid, as well as A. FWIW, you have the incorrect alternator harness. That's the warning light harness. The gauge harness has a white/black stripe wire in between orange/lt blue and yellow/white. The red/green stripe should be at the bottom.
  30. 1 point
    Here is a pic of mine on 73. I has power windows, convenience group, gauges, big alternator and rear window defogger so lots of wires there. I do not have a pic after I cleaned it up.
  31. 1 point
    I sure am diggin' that brand new shiny red Mustang zipping around Vegas. I've zipped around Vegas in my Mach 1, ( not on two wheels though).Many years ago, I was a singer in a relatively successful group, and amongst other venues and gigs did a fair amount of Vegas dates. Between my big pompadour hairdo back then, and my Mach 1 ( which was just as visable and well known ), I could just pull up to valet parking at any casino and just leave the keys with them. The casinos all knew whose car that was, and who drove it. While not nearly as cool as James Bond, here's me then ( on right), and my car...
  32. 1 point
    I use a flare nut crows foot wrench and a long extension to get to the hose fittings on the steering gear from the top. No fluid dripping in my face and easier to get them started when you can see them.
  33. 1 point
    I have a concours driven car. I finished it over 8 years ago and it has less than a thousands miles on it since completion. If you want to drive the car I'd suggest skipping the concours route. I've built several cars over the years and this one is my first and last concours effort. I spent way too much time researching fasteners, finishes, date stamps, and other small details to be fun. The car did receive gold and I was happy about that. When I do drive it, I enjoy it as it has a lot of get up and go (judges can't see what is inside the engine). Decide how you want to use the car, your skill level, your budget, and let that guide your restoration plans would be my advice. Chuck
  34. 1 point
    Stanglover posted a picture of a Boss piston earlier in this thread. See if your pistons look like that. You might also be able to use the snake camera to look for the screw in studs if you don't want to pull off a valve cover.
  35. 1 point
    Yes I will message you later I’m in buffalo ny not sure what shipping will cost but I don’t mind cutting it out
  36. 1 point
    The reason I replied with "Really?", is that I've found that a lot of people have a misconception about running a sleeved block, either just one or all cylinders. What is the determining factor is cylinder wall thickness prior to sleeving. Obviously, a block that experiences core shift to the point of the bore required to sleeve a hole renders a cylinder block too thin, should be passed on. At work, we sonic check ALL cylinders on a block requiring a sleeve to make sure it's do-able. A sleeved block, in and of itself, is not at all a problem. Some factory engines used to come new with sleeves, ( picture an old V8-60 Ford ) many modern new engines today, do as well. A sleeve is centrifically cast, making it a stronger , denser, and more uniform material, than factory cast iron blocks are. Sometimes, we can do a boring bar "push", which, when measurements justify doing, will gain some extra wall thickness around a sleeve. A bore receiving a sleeve is not bored all the way through, but left with a step, which the new sleeve is driven to ,and stops. The top of the sleeve is finished flat to the deck, so the sleeve is captive, and cannot move up or down if it wanted to, and it is press fitted as well so it's not going anywhere. Of course, most ALL aluminum racing engines are sleeved as well, however, they are cast to be so. All engines are not created equal. Your Chevy blocks have much thicker cast cylinder walls. I'd have no issues with boring a 327 Chevy to .060 over, but I wouldn't recommend doing that with your 289 Ford, It may overheat, due to thin wall casting techniques, but not always, so have the machine shop check. I would sleeve before I'd scrap a Cleveland. We just sleeved a Boss 302, no problem. I don't have the numbers on minimum wall thickness when boring for sleeves in my head, Alex at work, who does all of the boring and honing does, but as long as you're good, sleeves will save a block from the scrap pile. Sleeves come in various thicknesses, so oft-times a thin sleeve is preferred when walls bore to the thin side. . So, that's what I know on the subject. If you need to save a block, don't be afraid, just sonic check first.
  37. 1 point
    I created this custom content list and then added it to my browser's favorites. This is where I go everyday to check the latest posts. I hated it as well before I figured how to change the contents. It is now working for me. However, I don't know if this link would work for other users. Give it a try. https://7173mustangs.com/forums/discover/11/?&stream_date_type=relative&stream_date_relative_days[val]=365&stream_date_relative_days[unit]=d&stream_classes[IPS\forums\Topic]=1&stream_classes[IPS\calendar\Event]=1&stream_classes[IPS\blog\Entry]=1 Edit: for search I always used google. It works better for me. The link below is also saved to my favorites. It forces Google to only look in this forum. However, most of the search result links point to the other website and it doesn't work with the new site. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3A7173mustangs.com&oq=site%3A7173mustangs.com&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58j69i59.9663j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  38. 1 point
    I have been using mid grade E-10 for many years with no ill effects. I probably drive mine as much or more than anyone on this site at 7 to 10k a year. That admittedly may help. The only modification I've made to the fuel system is to upgrade the rubber fuel hoses under the hood. I only see a reason for ethanol free fuel when the car will be in long term storage.
  39. 1 point
    Hey guys...I just realized that I never added the Google Custom Search back to the new forum! Well, it is BACK!! You can find it at the top of the side bar on the index page or under the Content tab up top! Now you have two powerful search features to use when you need to find something on the forums FAST!!
  40. 1 point
    Hello Djustham, First I'll say what a great looking Mach1 you have. It would be a check in the plus column if you did have a Boss engine. Depending on how long ago the original engine was replaced , it could certainly be possible. Before these engines elevated to cult status, it was much easier to find Boss engines and parts in a salvage yard. I remember in early '81 I was approached by a person looking for some Boss 351 rods, pistons, and damper. He had been looking for an engine for a project and this one fell into his lap from a salvage yard.There had been zero interest in this engine from anyone looking for a "Regular" 4bl 351. Guess the solid lifter noise and adjusting valves scared off the tire kickers. I personally like the sound of solid lifter Ford engines. I grew up to the sound of solid lifter 427, 271/289's, and Boss engines, pure music! Oh, and the project, he was mounting a 55 Chevy body on 4x4 F150 frame! You have already received a lot of really good ID info. The Mustang Tek site, while not always 100% correct, is a good source for ID info. There was a replacement for the earlier mentioned damper. The original is part# D1ZZ-6316-B (ID# D1ZX-AA) . There was another that was the production installed damper for the '72 351 HO and the service replacement for the '71 engine. Ford part# D2ZZ6316-A (ID# D2ZX-AA). So running changes and service replacement parts can also add to the fun of trying to ID certain parts. Just as a reminder, any number you see on a part is always going to be an engineering and not a part number. Ford NEVER cast, molded, stamped or printed the actual part number on any part. As SVO2SCJ posted, there is a lot that can be investigated without going into the engine. There are many of us that have had experience with these engines in one form or another. So if you need ID help or just have questions, don't ever hesitate to ask. That's why we are all here!
  41. 1 point
    Isnt there something about that? I thought you could go blind? OH.......... thats another action . And whats up with this guy?
  42. 1 point
    Wheelhouse looking great. I believe the clear on the drum will just burn off really quick. I have used the black paint for headers and also black for your charcoal grill. Of course were just raw iron when new.
  43. 1 point
    i was able to finish one of the rear wheel wells today. I torched all the undercoating to check if anything needed to be fixed and then sanded and primed, then painted it. While i was there i stripped the rust off the drum and clear coated the outside.
  44. 1 point
    Guys, thanks for the responses! I am sorry I did not answer sooner but I did not get notified of your responses. I am not sure why. Jasbro316 let me know if you are interested in cutting that part out and selling it. CMM - Thanks for the photos! That is definitely what I need to do.
  45. 1 point
    It would draw a lot of flak from lovers of other marques, but I have felt for a while that the '71 Ford Boss 351 might just be the best factory small block V8 engine ever manufactured. Perhaps I should say smaller displacement engine rather than small block, you get the idea. There is also the '70 Chevrolet LT-1 350, a potent combination in its own right, but I still hold the Boss 351 in higher regard.
  46. 1 point
    Well got a few more things done over the last couple days. Last weekend we pulled out the steering box and power steering pump/lines in order to replace the steering box and lines. I also took this opportunity to change the rubber in the rag joint to the newer polyurethane piece. So yesterday a couple friends came over to give a hand and we were able to get the new Red Head steering gear box back in, and hooked up the lines. Im still working on bleeding the air out of the system since Im sure the extra loop of hose over the export brace, and the factory cooler will make it a bit harder to get the air out. So hopefully after a few more cycles I will have all the air out and it will be good to go. Likely going to change the rear shocks while its up in the air. Its tough to see it but you can see the new box and freshly painted pump and everything in there. Between stuff I also figured I would get some newer more modern looking headlights for it. So I ordered this set of LED lights since they still have a bit of a classic look, but also seem to give much better performance. I still have to take it out at night to really test them out, but that has to wait till the power steering is finished being bled. And then finally, the 3d printed piece that my friend made up to replace the original clock was printed out and done. So I got it everything back together and I am really happy how it turned out. I have a bit of extra wire coming out for now in case I want to slide the tuner up to get at the SD card, but otherwise it turned out exactly as I had hoped.
  47. 1 point
    Fist picture with the cutoff wheel shows cutting the “return” off the bezel. I don’t think this is 100% necessary, but if does make cutting the holes to size easier. Second picture shows all 3 “returns” cut off flush. Third picture shows the left most gauge hole after cutting it to 2 1/16”. Some emery cloth on a piece of PVC pipe made quick work of fine tuning it after using a burr in the rotary tool. I did have to oblong the hole a bit because of the angle of the gauge.
  48. 1 point
    Found one!! 1971 429 4 speed numbers matching! now I’m really part of the group! I’ll be posting a video soon
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Recently bought my all time dream car. ERA GT40 with a 408 small block with a ZF 5 speed.
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