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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/19/2021 in all areas

  1. Couple shots from this past weekend. Got a chance to really push the new suspension components and they performed exceptionally well.
    11 points
  2. I put the hood back on the car and installed the Argent Ram Air decals. Here are a few pics: The black hood changes the whole character of the the old girl. Makes me wish I'd done it years ago!
    7 points
  3. Took it out for a full throttle rip getting on the freeway. Got the blood pumping! IMG_5427.MOV
    5 points
  4. My wife and I went to see our 408c on the dyno. I highly recommend doing this if you have the chance. Very cool! John did 2 pulls for us both producing 468 HP @ 5700 and 471 TQ @ 4400. It was a little short of the around 500 HP that we thought it be but we where all surprised with the torque. We expected the torque to be around 430. All in all I'm very happy with the results and feel the strong torque numbers make up for the horsepower. Hope the video comes threw. MVI_2837.MOVMVI_2839.MOV
    5 points
  5. I painted my hood today. After gaining confidence with the paint gun on the front bumper I figured what the hell, give it a go. Here it is with stencil in place, masked, sanded and tacked ready for paint: Well, moment of truth. After two coasts of single stage and thirty minutes to flash, I removed all the tape. Ta da! I'm pretty happy with the result. Not too shabby for "amateur hour". Going to let it bake overnight and then reinstall tomorrow. I'll wait a few days before putting on the Argent 351 RAM AIR decals.
    5 points
  6. Vintageman - I finally got the stand finished and the engine started. I was grinning ear to ear. My daugher come over to visit and was with me when I started it for the first time. She laughed at my facial expression. Starting was pretty easy with the Holley Sniper setup. Just took my time with all the wiring and efi pump setup. Now back to the car itself. For anyone - any comments regarding the Tremec TKX? Also, 2.5 or 3 exhaust? 3 is what is on it now. Pretty loud. It set my car alarm off 3 times. 351W EFI I short I.mp4
    4 points
  7. Hello,I'm still at it.I'm currently working on the outer wheel house filler panels. I have the drivers side fit tight to the quarter and tacked in. Now to do the passenger side then to weld them in. I also made the front and rear flares even larger to better fit the larger wheels.The fronts are done and just have to be edged and I'm working on the rear.The rears also need to be edged.
    4 points
  8. Figured I’d make a quick post that not only shows the update on the car but talks about what I’m running for wheels and tires! Enjoy!
    3 points
  9. Lots of seats out there that fit your requirements, but unfortunately 99 percent of them are way too tall and leave no room for your legs. The only seats I found that are comfortable, fit in the car, and are practically unlimited as far as adjustability are mid to late 90's BMW M3 seats. More commonly known as "Vader" seats. You do not want the power ones, too many headaches to install and wire with modules. Look for the manual version where everything adjusts with levers. Pretty cool looking too.
    3 points
  10. FINALLY!!! It’s done!! Brought it home from alignment shop tonight. Drove great. Ran good. Got it all cleaned up and ready to go home. The owner is going to come this weekend to pick it up. Another one out the door.
    3 points
  11. Plan is to start tearing into it this winter.
    3 points
  12. Weekend! Because weather was on the cold and wet side (again), no cruising :( Instead, i've returned to the Saginaw gear thingy... Unbeleivable how many parts are pushed into that thing!!! No matter what, everything needs to go out and be cleaned before even think about how you're gonna put all these back together! At some point, totally high of the cleaning thinner. All the parts inspected, sorted, cleaned and some even plated. You end up with a nice puzzle and it's time to scratch you head about where to start to put it all back together! Thx to 2 manuals, the sheet that came with the rebuild kit and some videos of more recent but similar units on youtube, I've spend the afternoon putting it back together. I won't cover in details, but know that there are 24 bearing balls for the endless worm and these turned out to be different. Each having a different colour and they need come back in an alternated pattern. On the videos that I saw it was obvious, on this unit, much less, so make sure to clean them and their yellowish patina before reinstall and keep them in different containers. Also on none of the doc I had or saw there was anything about how to put them back except it was told it was a "biatchy" experience. Most doc was saying, use tool #whatever without showing it or use a fuel rubber line, plenty jelly etc... So what I did is install the worm with plenty goo and piston without them, rotate the piston to have access to the holes, and with the worm on the farthest position, pushed them in, not forgetting the pattern while slowly turn the shaft. "Was it a dark or shiny ball I just pushed back in??" was a question returning every 2 or 3 balls! Dang it I get older! :D Eventually got them all back in, and the last remaining 8 need to be placed into the bridge (still in the alternated fashion), the bracket and screw secured and the piston can be turned back to the point where the teeth for the section shaft are visible and center. I told that before: using assembly goo made for transmission made a massive difference and became a third hand at times. I've used of course plenty ATF oil as well to make sure all was nicely lubricated. One trick I've learned from my AOD rebuild experience during the servicing of the governor nylon rings is to use a sewing needle to insert them which acting as a guide makes easy to go over the grooves you do not want to populate, because of course, as learned on the trans, they go into these and they do not want to get out easy... This unit has 4 and they come on top of o-rings. For the rear piston, inserting the big nylon ring is easy and can be done by hand, but for worm side, you have 3 grooves with each an o-ring and 3 nylons, lots of fun! The less you distord them the better and that's when it's time to push all these into the bore that you really appreciate the savings on the distortions using this little trick... The kit I've used came with all the necessary o-ring, snap rings, seals and on the exception of the cover o-ring one that comes as a nice metal plate that once folded will allow you to install the cover and remove it with ease (because during fine tuning you need remove the cover a couple of times (because you're getting old and you forgot to check the alignment of the teeth or forgot to add more oil before close). All were, at least using this kit, spot on regarding sizes and near perfect replicas of the originals. May the bushings show play/wear, you can order these separated or buy a more extended kit. Mine being in excellent condition, shaft with zero play and no visible damage, I saw no reason to go through their replacement. Once you have said a few bad words every now and then, cut your finger tip on the sharp bore inside and swore again because you used that bloody tip again while using thinner, let a ball fall on the ground because you can't hold it good using the wrong finger and spend 15 minutes locating it much further away than you'd thought possible. You end up with a not looking too bad Saginaw gear! :D Reinstalling it in the car with the restored hardware with the previously prepped pitman arm was a breeze and all connected nicely with the rest of the steering parts without a single bad word being said!! :D Tho that was for just a short moment as I found out that the coupler ordered by Rockauto wasn't the right one... So now need to contact them and see if they have the right one. And also noticed that the column is not only having a massive play, the coupler plate it's not moving up or down making the install of any coupler possible... something I did not remark a few months back as I took both coupler and gear out together. Soooo, without the right coupler and that stubborn column that will need inspection, my plan to roll the car to the street, turn it and start work on interior/floor rear is delayed... grumblegrrrr Oh well, that's part of the game! :D Oh and asked that already in a separated thread a while back but go no answer, so asking here again... I have bought classic tube stainless brake lines as they are so affordable it makes no sense to even think about making custom ones... But for some reasons, they do not come with holders. So restored for now the original ones that were really rusty so i can install. I would love to know where I could buy some new ones ( or at least the right name so I could et results of my searches). And also where to find the square nylon nuts that are pressed into the radiator support that holds the front healights brackets. Anyway, that's it for this update. Glad that the steering gear is done. It was more work than anticipated! To be continued...
    3 points
  13. Put the top down and took the pooch for a ride
    3 points
  14. I bought my Mach a new friend
    3 points
  15. Here's my suggestions: For the console box you could get a sheet of ABS plastic and shape a new bottom. I'd go with a rectangle the size of the bottom and adhere it in place from the topside. On the console, fiberglass might work. JB Weld makes some plastic weld that works good on several types of plastics. Use some mesh or some of the ABS sheet to reinforce it on the underside. Good luck and let us know how you end up doing your repairs.
    2 points
  16. Made it to 49 today! Still parked safely in a garage. I started her up and drove her a few times this year but the last startup produced a leaky accelerator pump on the center carb. It's a cheap and easy fix so now that it is cooling off a bit I plan on getting it done and driving her around some while the weather is nice. I want to make sure she hits the road a year from now on the 50th birthday of her rolling off the line. It's weird to think when I got this Mustang that cars from the 30's and 40's were hitting the half century mark. The technology jump from those years to the Mustang were crazy and now, almost 50 years later, it's crazy again.
    2 points
  17. I did it in my car. I had a roll cage built and installed and had to shorten up the rear panels. I used a three sheets of aluminum and glued carpet to match my interior. I piece replaced the trap door, the second piece is flat and the third piece is bent to match the contours of the front panel. I have my battery relocated and underneath where the passenger side rear set would be. Here are a few pictures. https://photos.app.goo.gl/kepqbZ7Ymfdsy2Rp6
    2 points
  18. Put the car back on the lift this afternoon. Using the stethoscope; SUPER LOUD BANGING on the oil pan below the 4 & 8 connecting rods. Pulled an original cobra jet oil pan I had on the shelf, and their is a low profile baffle under the rear 4 connecting rods. I'm guessing and hoping this is the culprit! The pan comes off tomorrow and I'll update with pics! Thanks for your input!
    2 points
  19. Go to the hardware store, buy some 18 gauge sheet metal, and start making patch panels. You can clamp 2x4s or angle iron together for minor breaking (bending), lay it on a couple of boards and stomp on it, beat the hell out of it with a hammer, etc. Watch how Ian Roussel builds panels for his custom cars. You'll be surprised on what you can build. Full Custom Garage | MAVTV Motorsports Network
    2 points
  20. No. This abomination should be made there, sold there and no where else! :D
    2 points
  21. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
    2 points
  22. Great post and good info. I might try the governor trick. Where did you pick up the anti stick spring from? In regards to the modulators the green strip has a bigger diaphram in it and responds better to low vacuum. I spoke to tech support at Rostra Powertrain Controls earlier in the year in regards to my C6 and was given that information from them. I also attached a pdf on their modulators for trans type and year. rostra-modulator-application-guide.pdf
    1 point
  23. Success. Shifts right around 6,000 RPM and makes me wish I had more traction. IMG_5427.MOV
    1 point
  24. Hi, The chrome strip and rubber come off as one piece (soft hammer or piece of timber to avoid marking glass). You may be able to remove and re-install without removing the window. Not sure on this as I did mine when installing the quarter window wind down conversion. I think you may damage the roof seal if you don't remove the window. As for where to buy - support one of the forum vendors. Shane
    1 point
  25. Place a straight edge across the cam gear and see how far off it is at the crank gear. If the crank gear is closer to the block it will continuously pull the cam gear against the thrust bearing, as well as cause side loads on the links. Did you check the crankshaft and camshaft free end play?
    1 point
  26. Its hard to help without a more detailed description, or better yet some pictures. Can you post a picture of yours.
    1 point
  27. Awesome That's the look I have for my car, too. Dog dishes with white letters but without trim rings. Dig it! My wheels are ready but the suspension ain't yet. It looks fantastic on yours, also love the TuTone Big milestones forward, very cool! Happy to see you with baby-mechanic
    1 point
  28. Don has good suggestions that will work. However, there is another way and that is to use an 80 watt solder iron with a flattened tip. You could file the tip on the bottom side to flatten it, somewhat like a chisel, but not sharp. This is then used to stitch the the crack together from the back. You can probably buy a sheet of 1/8" ABS from Amazon. With this sheet, cut strips about 1/8" or less and use as the filler and weld the crack/repair from the BACK side. Take some time to practice this method. Personally, I use a Seley hot air welder, which is not cheap for a one time use, unless one has the funds to buy one. The downside of fixing these consoles is they are textured and that is very hard to replicate. However, I have had quite good success using a Dremel with a 1/8" carbide burr with a round tip and gently go over the repair to sort of texture it. Then I finish with SEM Trim Black paint. Another alternative is to look for a better console to start with.
    1 point
  29. Hey Mike, Sounds like some excellent customer service from NPD. I had not followed the progress on these springs closely since I originally posted about them in Oct '20. The couple of times I did look, they were on perpetual back order, normal for today's world. At least they gave you a reason for the delay and that you will be notified when the problem is resolved, and your back order can be filled.
    1 point
  30. Will do. So far I have a Transgo 37-1 shift kit in it. With that alone it shits 1-2 and 2-3 at 5000 RPM WOT. I installed a Governor anti-stick spring (aftermarket) and drilled a 3/16” hole in the end that may have removed one gram. That got me up to about 5150 RPM WOT. Below is a pic of what got me to 5150 RPM. I am hoping the one I just machined gets me somewhere in the 5500-6000 RPM range.
    1 point
  31. Still on the quest to make my FMX shift later I put the Governor on a diet. Took it from 16 grams down to 11. Standard on the right- high RPM on the left… Weather is too wet to take it out for a drive - hopefully next weekend I can test it out and report back.
    1 point
  32. The electronic (pdf) colorized wiring diagrams that I have from Forel includes harness routing diagrams.
    1 point
  33. I'd like one too, just like Manu, also in the sexy european guys XL!
    1 point
  34. Well here’s what I have after gently cutting bits away with dremmel cutoff wheels, it’s all solid and welded or brazed together. Going to try to kill of the rest of the surface rust, encapsulate it and smooth it out a bit…
    1 point
  35. Here is my frankencoupler when it was getting installed. It was a mix of all three I believe (original, Lares, Dorman rebuild kit?), but I don’t remember which piece was from which. Hopefully the front and back image gives you an idea.
    1 point
  36. Yes, I have a stethoscope. The target noise is a loud banging noise on the oil pan and a small ticking noise on the block.
    1 point
  37. Great pictures. I like it!
    1 point
  38. Hello Ray, Due to some Covid related family issues, I haven't posted here for a while but visit occasionally. The '73 Mach 1 pictures you posted really look great. I bet that red pops in person. You sure they didn't place it with the Dodge Challengers since our cars are often mistaken for them?!! Most of the time, I don't look at the '73s very long since I favor the look of the sport lamp grill on the '71 and '72s. This one is nice! With the Tu-tone hood and locks at an almost giveaway price of $18.00, it's almost rare to see a '73 without that option. I like "Write me a ticket red", so all that expanse of red looks good to me. If it is original, the owner sure has taken care of her. Having the original flex duct and hot air tube to the exhaust manifold is a good indication of care. I've seen some babied "Garage Queens" with those parts deteriorated. If going for the Concourse level look, the only things I saw that I would address would be to install turn-down exhaust tips and replace the Magnums with the forged aluminum wheels. I have seen so many of these cars just absolutely beat to death and modified to the point of no return; this one sure is a nice change of pace. If you happen to see it again, some interior, underhood, and door certification label shots would be great. At least he is open to "Or Best Offer" and not "I know what I've got, no low ball offers.
    1 point
  39. 1 point
  40. Just a quick update.......I received my test wheel from Trans Am Race Engineering and have it test fitted to the car. It's a 15x10 Superlite with 4 inches of backspacing. From the edge of the front wheel to the edge of the flare is 1 1/2 inches. The same spec wheel will also be used on the rear so all 4 wheels will be the same. So next I will be boxing the wheel back up,sending it back and discussing the finer points of the wheels with TARE,and have a set of 4 made. Then fit with my tires and tweek and modify the flares to fit .
    1 point
  41. Guys, If you add your Mustangs to the Garage, you can upload your Marti Report in pdf format as well for safe keeping! Pretty cool feature!!
    1 point
  42. Not meaning to hijack this but I'd like to see a stencil kit for the MUSTANG block letters across the deck lid on the 71 Convertible and or Grande ! I know there are measurements out there but it's in fraction of inches... :whistling:
    1 point
  43. Yes there are only three Here they are ... The web site will charge 9.95 min shipping If you use paypal I can send an invoice for sending 1st class mail ... pm me if interested Item #1117 71-73 DASH PAD RETAINER CLIP SET Three piece set. Price: $4.00 http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/images/addtocart.gif[/img]
    1 point
  44. i had a nice thread about the rag joint, but the photobucket photos got lost in some upgrade they did http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-check-your-rag-joints-part-1
    1 point
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