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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/17/2021 in Posts

  1. Couple shots from this past weekend. Got a chance to really push the new suspension components and they performed exceptionally well.
    11 points
  2. I put the hood back on the car and installed the Argent Ram Air decals. Here are a few pics: The black hood changes the whole character of the the old girl. Makes me wish I'd done it years ago!
    7 points
  3. I painted my hood today. After gaining confidence with the paint gun on the front bumper I figured what the hell, give it a go. Here it is with stencil in place, masked, sanded and tacked ready for paint: Well, moment of truth. After two coasts of single stage and thirty minutes to flash, I removed all the tape. Ta da! I'm pretty happy with the result. Not too shabby for "amateur hour". Going to let it bake overnight and then reinstall tomorrow. I'll wait a few days before putting on the Argent 351 RAM AIR decals.
    7 points
  4. From the factory steel with sports caps. To some Australian made, early 1970's ROH Pro Sprint wheels. 235 / 60 / 14 on the front and 245 / 60 / 14 on the back. Next job, to replace the front drum brakes with disk.
    7 points
  5. I bought my Mach a new friend
    6 points
  6. Hello,I'm still at it.I'm currently working on the outer wheel house filler panels. I have the drivers side fit tight to the quarter and tacked in. Now to do the passenger side then to weld them in. I also made the front and rear flares even larger to better fit the larger wheels.The fronts are done and just have to be edged and I'm working on the rear.The rears also need to be edged.
    5 points
  7. Put the top down and took the pooch for a ride
    5 points
  8. Vintageman - I finally got the stand finished and the engine started. I was grinning ear to ear. My daugher come over to visit and was with me when I started it for the first time. She laughed at my facial expression. Starting was pretty easy with the Holley Sniper setup. Just took my time with all the wiring and efi pump setup. Now back to the car itself. For anyone - any comments regarding the Tremec TKX? Also, 2.5 or 3 exhaust? 3 is what is on it now. Pretty loud. It set my car alarm off 3 times. 351W EFI I short I.mp4
    4 points
  9. FINALLY!!! It’s done!! Brought it home from alignment shop tonight. Drove great. Ran good. Got it all cleaned up and ready to go home. The owner is going to come this weekend to pick it up. Another one out the door.
    3 points
  10. Plan is to start tearing into it this winter.
    3 points
  11. Weekend! Because weather was on the cold and wet side (again), no cruising :( Instead, i've returned to the Saginaw gear thingy... Unbeleivable how many parts are pushed into that thing!!! No matter what, everything needs to go out and be cleaned before even think about how you're gonna put all these back together! At some point, totally high of the cleaning thinner. All the parts inspected, sorted, cleaned and some even plated. You end up with a nice puzzle and it's time to scratch you head about where to start to put it all back together! Thx to 2 manuals, the sheet that came with the rebuild kit and some videos of more recent but similar units on youtube, I've spend the afternoon putting it back together. I won't cover in details, but know that there are 24 bearing balls for the endless worm and these turned out to be different. Each having a different colour and they need come back in an alternated pattern. On the videos that I saw it was obvious, on this unit, much less, so make sure to clean them and their yellowish patina before reinstall and keep them in different containers. Also on none of the doc I had or saw there was anything about how to put them back except it was told it was a "biatchy" experience. Most doc was saying, use tool #whatever without showing it or use a fuel rubber line, plenty jelly etc... So what I did is install the worm with plenty goo and piston without them, rotate the piston to have access to the holes, and with the worm on the farthest position, pushed them in, not forgetting the pattern while slowly turn the shaft. "Was it a dark or shiny ball I just pushed back in??" was a question returning every 2 or 3 balls! Dang it I get older! :D Eventually got them all back in, and the last remaining 8 need to be placed into the bridge (still in the alternated fashion), the bracket and screw secured and the piston can be turned back to the point where the teeth for the section shaft are visible and center. I told that before: using assembly goo made for transmission made a massive difference and became a third hand at times. I've used of course plenty ATF oil as well to make sure all was nicely lubricated. One trick I've learned from my AOD rebuild experience during the servicing of the governor nylon rings is to use a sewing needle to insert them which acting as a guide makes easy to go over the grooves you do not want to populate, because of course, as learned on the trans, they go into these and they do not want to get out easy... This unit has 4 and they come on top of o-rings. For the rear piston, inserting the big nylon ring is easy and can be done by hand, but for worm side, you have 3 grooves with each an o-ring and 3 nylons, lots of fun! The less you distord them the better and that's when it's time to push all these into the bore that you really appreciate the savings on the distortions using this little trick... The kit I've used came with all the necessary o-ring, snap rings, seals and on the exception of the cover o-ring one that comes as a nice metal plate that once folded will allow you to install the cover and remove it with ease (because during fine tuning you need remove the cover a couple of times (because you're getting old and you forgot to check the alignment of the teeth or forgot to add more oil before close). All were, at least using this kit, spot on regarding sizes and near perfect replicas of the originals. May the bushings show play/wear, you can order these separated or buy a more extended kit. Mine being in excellent condition, shaft with zero play and no visible damage, I saw no reason to go through their replacement. Once you have said a few bad words every now and then, cut your finger tip on the sharp bore inside and swore again because you used that bloody tip again while using thinner, let a ball fall on the ground because you can't hold it good using the wrong finger and spend 15 minutes locating it much further away than you'd thought possible. You end up with a not looking too bad Saginaw gear! :D Reinstalling it in the car with the restored hardware with the previously prepped pitman arm was a breeze and all connected nicely with the rest of the steering parts without a single bad word being said!! :D Tho that was for just a short moment as I found out that the coupler ordered by Rockauto wasn't the right one... So now need to contact them and see if they have the right one. And also noticed that the column is not only having a massive play, the coupler plate it's not moving up or down making the install of any coupler possible... something I did not remark a few months back as I took both coupler and gear out together. Soooo, without the right coupler and that stubborn column that will need inspection, my plan to roll the car to the street, turn it and start work on interior/floor rear is delayed... grumblegrrrr Oh well, that's part of the game! :D Oh and asked that already in a separated thread a while back but go no answer, so asking here again... I have bought classic tube stainless brake lines as they are so affordable it makes no sense to even think about making custom ones... But for some reasons, they do not come with holders. So restored for now the original ones that were really rusty so i can install. I would love to know where I could buy some new ones ( or at least the right name so I could et results of my searches). And also where to find the square nylon nuts that are pressed into the radiator support that holds the front healights brackets. Anyway, that's it for this update. Glad that the steering gear is done. It was more work than anticipated! To be continued...
    3 points
  12. I put the console where it fit the shifter well , with painters tape under the screw holes in the console and marked each one with a sharpie. from there I removed the console and heated a piece of 3/16'' brake tubing with no flare red hot and simply melted thru the carpet. Stinky and hard on the eyes, but very effective, just drilled my holes from there, I could actually see where the screws needed to go. That's all I am willing to confess to today.
    3 points
  13. 3 points
  14. Here's my suggestions: For the console box you could get a sheet of ABS plastic and shape a new bottom. I'd go with a rectangle the size of the bottom and adhere it in place from the topside. On the console, fiberglass might work. JB Weld makes some plastic weld that works good on several types of plastics. Use some mesh or some of the ABS sheet to reinforce it on the underside. Good luck and let us know how you end up doing your repairs.
    2 points
  15. Made it to 49 today! Still parked safely in a garage. I started her up and drove her a few times this year but the last startup produced a leaky accelerator pump on the center carb. It's a cheap and easy fix so now that it is cooling off a bit I plan on getting it done and driving her around some while the weather is nice. I want to make sure she hits the road a year from now on the 50th birthday of her rolling off the line. It's weird to think when I got this Mustang that cars from the 30's and 40's were hitting the half century mark. The technology jump from those years to the Mustang were crazy and now, almost 50 years later, it's crazy again.
    2 points
  16. I did it in my car. I had a roll cage built and installed and had to shorten up the rear panels. I used a three sheets of aluminum and glued carpet to match my interior. I piece replaced the trap door, the second piece is flat and the third piece is bent to match the contours of the front panel. I have my battery relocated and underneath where the passenger side rear set would be. Here are a few pictures. https://photos.app.goo.gl/kepqbZ7Ymfdsy2Rp6
    2 points
  17. Put the car back on the lift this afternoon. Using the stethoscope; SUPER LOUD BANGING on the oil pan below the 4 & 8 connecting rods. Pulled an original cobra jet oil pan I had on the shelf, and their is a low profile baffle under the rear 4 connecting rods. I'm guessing and hoping this is the culprit! The pan comes off tomorrow and I'll update with pics! Thanks for your input!
    2 points
  18. Go to the hardware store, buy some 18 gauge sheet metal, and start making patch panels. You can clamp 2x4s or angle iron together for minor breaking (bending), lay it on a couple of boards and stomp on it, beat the hell out of it with a hammer, etc. Watch how Ian Roussel builds panels for his custom cars. You'll be surprised on what you can build. Full Custom Garage | MAVTV Motorsports Network
    2 points
  19. No. This abomination should be made there, sold there and no where else! :D
    2 points
  20. Hi, All... I have a 72' not a 73 and it's time to get these out there. Full set of 73 Forged Aluminum wheels. Not so easy to find today. 14x6 Each one has one or all of the center cap screws snapped off. Some light curb rash on 2 but with some buffing, it will come out. Pick up or ship 250.00 for the set. Located in Cleveland, OH PM me for details
    2 points
  21. Also here a few pics of the original 71 I painted a few years ago. I copied exactly where the factory blackout went to in the doors jambs. I’m pretty sure they changed them slightly in 72. Yours will go a little higher on the body since this car has the decor trim and yours does not. You car is looking great!! Keep up the good work.
    2 points
  22. Hood stencil is looking great. Don't forget when you shoot the rest of the black, to paint the inside edge of the tail lights where the honeycomb goes.
    2 points
  23. Did it come with one of these?
    2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. I appreciate all the input. Justinc1973 thanks for that pic, made the choice easier. My mind is made up. shouldn't be long and i'll be able to put some pics up
    2 points
  26. There's a voltage regulator for the gauges (instrument voltage regulator) that works by contacts opening and closing and reducing the power to an average of around 6 volts, hence pulsing. The purpose is so the gauges don't fluctuate as the alternator voltage increases and decreases with engine RPM.
    2 points
  27. @tony-muscle Thx Tony, but you know, I can't save these parts half! Once you actually do all this routinely, the shine comes almost for free. And that it's underneath or in plain sight doesn't really matters. Plus, once they are under a nice coat, they are so smooth to the touch, it's much more easy to clean than that raw rough steel. @timachone Nothing goes above a Mustang read for breakfast! I was planning to focus only on my new patient, the saginaw steering gear, but as this weekend was looking like the last dry not too cold weekend of the year, I went plan b and use that weather to spray a few things, so I could be able to finish a few things I've started before the misery comes back.. Here's my last weekend, as usual, not perse in chronological order. After some taping and good degreasing, primed, painted and coated my booster. It popped in my mind that a a booster needs a master cylinder to actually do something and as it was in a box for a long time, I totally forgot it (almost). So sprayed it in its own grey and as the clear coat I'm using gave me pretty results on other zinc protected parts, I also took the chinese chrome cover with it. While the booster was drying, made some rubber gasket to fit in between firewall and the unit as I did on my 73. There was nothing left of the original plastic thingy and as its sole purpose is to isolate air to enter the cabine, this should be even better as it eventually takes out vibs too. All hard on Sunday, I've installed the one way valve grommet/valve and I was pretty pleased to see the combo now in a pretty descent state! I'm sure purists will file a complain about the finish... but in my jurisdiction, I'm dang happy about the way they look considering how all this was just a week ago and they match my greys theme ! :D In between spray & heat gun sessions for my parts. I went back to the gear dismantelling, and on one side, you need a special tool to unlock it. A visit to my local shop revealed that the right tool, was just $110... yeah right. Soooo as I have a couple of similar tools that came with past axe tools to change/secure disks, I've cut one, and welded in the missing space. Few minutes later, after first marking the position of the assembly to ease reassembly later on, I used my frankenstein tool and it did great. Tho, after the locking ring is loose, it's not really necessary. I think having it will be handy later on. Oh well, I have it now and saved some money :D The unit had no play, no leaks and I could have just cleaned it up and mount it back, but I'm glad I did not cut corners, as while bushings and pretty much everything is looking good, after 50 years, it was really in need of a good clean up! New o-rings, gaskets etc.. should give it a few decades more! Btw, If you ever service one of these. Keep in mind there is a hole on the side of the casing to get that snap ring out. Don't loose precious time as I did to try get it out the way snap rings are supposed to be taken out, this is GM, they make holes in casings vs use good snap rings! :D The weather still perfect, I also changed my plan that was to first put the gear back together and then paint, because 2 weeks of misery are coming this way and would end up with casing that only wants to rust on me. So after some love, got that casing grease, rust free and after some tedious masking, I've sprayed that baby. Because I know I will have the challenge to not damage the finish on the way back, I sprayed 6 thin layers of coat with 5 minutes in between with heat gun, and ended up with a real thick long lasting surface that should be solid rock next weekend. Installing back faded alumnium parts on a bling bling unit being kinda silly when you own a polishing machine, I gave the top and end cap some love, corrected the many casting flaws with files and sanding paper and got them whoooo sssssssshhhiny! :D My pitman arm and its hardware already done, I realised the sector shaft would be out of tone, but this thingy being really heavy, I would need build some complex thingy to hold it while it took a bath... nah, plan B too there! Went freehand plating :D and before I got some cramp, I ended up with the exposed part looking as my pitman arm. Ater a good rinse, cleaning it went in a freezing bag under a good layer of assembly goo so it doesn't rust on me or collects any debris. Btw, this stuff, is fantastic. made for transmission repair, where it really made a big difference for the 2 trans I did in past 2 years acting often as a third hand. Most of all, it ensures all stays lube, no matter how long it will take before you actually use the parts. Once it warms up a bit it desolves. My forgotten tie rod end also plated and painted, I could also place back the other side. Which gave me a weird alignment where both wheels were going opposite directions. Turning the sleeves on both side corrected that, tho I will only be able to make a "not too shabby" adjustment only after the pitman/gears are back in. Install and adjustments where done with great ease now that all is restored/new. Big contrast with removing them! Turning the wheels is now smooth as butter. With one or 2 hours of sun left, I decided I did enough for the weekend and that it was time to take the lady 73 for a spin... awesome! To be continued....
    2 points
  28. Hi again everybody,it's been a little while.Sometimes progress is just slow. But I have the new wheels on the car and it's perfect. They are Trans Am Race Engineering,Superlites.........all 4 are exactly the same size at 15x10, 4 inches of backspace.I may have to go one size wider on the front tires,but the 600x15s will work fine for now.I haven't changed the flares on the car.I don't really have to make major changes to them ,just tweek them for a bit more turing clearance in the front and hammer more curve into them in the rear. I do however have to trim the rear of the front valance by 1/2''. So now I can continue working on finishing the flares and moving on.
    2 points
  29. Will do. So far I have a Transgo 37-1 shift kit in it. With that alone it shits 1-2 and 2-3 at 5000 RPM WOT. I installed a Governor anti-stick spring (aftermarket) and drilled a 3/16” hole in the end that may have removed one gram. That got me up to about 5150 RPM WOT. Below is a pic of what got me to 5150 RPM. I am hoping the one I just machined gets me somewhere in the 5500-6000 RPM range.
    1 point
  30. The electronic (pdf) colorized wiring diagrams that I have from Forel includes harness routing diagrams.
    1 point
  31. I noted that yesterday myself and Rocketfoot took over 200 seconds while you were in there at 57. If your car goes as fast as you can read you got one hell of a ride.
    1 point
  32. Could be a lot of things. A mildly cammed 351C should be really snappy on the low end, regardless of what's attached to it. Start with the basics, especially your initial timing and the timing curve. The factory specs and timing curve are no good for a performance setup. You can safely run 10° ~ 16° initial as long as you don't have issues with the starter turning it over when it's hot. A 2V headed engine will want in the neighborhood of 36° total. With a 3.00 gear, I'd want that all in around 2500rpm. For vacuum advance, which will help with throttle response and efficiency, I prefer ported vacuum. It'll bring in extra timing right when you open the throttle, which helps get a car with highway gears off the line. You'll want to make sure you don't have an excessive amount of VA, it'll cause pinging on hills and such. Also, let us know more about your setu, it'll help with specific recommendations.
    1 point
  33. Apologies for helping is not allowed in my book! :D After reading it, I recall now I thought back then I should take some notes knowing I'd need one. Guess I forgot like too many things these days! :O Had a quick txt exchange with @Vinnie about this and was thinking about replacing the pins by custom ones. Baffles me that you start the production of parts like these in fairly big numbers without even checking on the cars you make them for! I like the sleeve solution used in that thread. Less work and should be alright if pressed tight. Also thought about another option to somehow keep the old coupler metal and replace just the rubber, but that would work only if the pins are threaded at least on the old one, which is a big question mark. If heat was not a problem, welding would be easy.. Meanwhile, I'll contact Rockauto about this, because it's really not a good practice or even safe to sell important parts like this that you can't install without modification. Even if the design is a fail safe and the pins not that important while the rubber is fine, the smaller hole in flange will not accept the radius of the smaller one anyway. So this part should not be sold for our cars. I have found and ordered a similar kit this morning and even another set with stainless clips that will prolly be nicer with my SS lines. Thanks for the link Tim @Manu Mach1 You can also buy a gasket sheet and make a template. The external shape is the spindle flat surface. The center circle is easy to be cut with a sharp cutter blade and bits of focus. No need for high precision as they are mainly necessary for vibrations and damp the sound the dust shield would otherwise make. For the bolts holes, I use a small tube that I've sharpened on a drill, and I simply slam cut them. Works perfectly and that way you have confettis ready for the next party! :D
    1 point
  34. Im assuming that for that I can seat the convertor fully in, and measure the distance from the mounting holes to the bell housing, and then measure the flex plate bolt spacing to the spacer plate, and it all should match up or be very close?
    1 point
  35. Jeff, I cannot see the photos from my work laptop due to corporate issues but, just a thought that the windshield frame needs to be cut down to enable the much needed gasket at the top. I did not do this and only realized that there actually was a gasket until my car was assembled & driving in the rain... Now, I always have to drive with a towel on my lap.... Thanks, Jay
    1 point
  36. Thanks Tim, I need a pair of them :)
    1 point
  37. Now we need a reminder app added to the forum.
    1 point
  38. I suppose a couple of pictures are in order https://photos.app.goo.gl/smqvBjBBLp32ZdrK6 Still have a little work to do before I can set the body on it for a test fit, but The chassis is about 90+% done. Still need to make a couple of sway bar mounts and some custom end links for them and the dogbone brackets are still not designed, just have it tacked together with some heavy steel plate until I get the chassis on the ground, the drivetrain in, and the body on. Cut down the windshield frame to match the chopped top last weekend and am certainly closing in on making it look sort of like a car
    1 point
  39. Got the car loaded up and dropped off at the alignment shop. I should be picking it up this evening and taking it to my buddys shop to reinstall the exhaust and button up a few odds and ends. Then back to my garage to clean it up and give back to owner. We are close now!! FINALLY!!
    1 point
  40. Huge thanks to @Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs for the detailed info of his blackout write up. Hopefully i didn’t butcher your name. Contact him directly for the write up! The stencil I had wasn’t too horrible but having references and measurements were helpful especially on how far forward to place it. will post another video soon! Be sure to subscribe if you wanna follow the build!
    1 point
  41. Sorry, the transmission has already found a home.
    1 point
  42. Excellent patience. Car looks great as is. Make sure you thank wife in tow who supports your silliness. Congrats on that new baby and hopefully he grows to love the car.! Ron
    1 point
  43. Don, as always is bang on above For what it worth try this out As I am a visual guy, A YouTube video that I watched really helped me understand “pulsing” power better. It’s by a mustang restoration guy who has lots of “mustang how to” videos. Although it is on an older mustang, the concepts are the same for our years. Pulsing power will apply to your gas gauge, and OEM/stock oil pressure and water pressure gauges (if your car was equipped with them). Unfortunately I am technically challenged, and don’t know how to find the link to put the YouTube video here, so you will have to search yourself...maybe someone else can post the YouTube link. Anyways in YouTube, Search “Chris the doc Ingrassia” video “how to troubleshoot faulty gauges in your classic car” it’s about an 8 minute video hope this helps
    1 point
  44. They know that nobody would buy it if they showed it. If it weren't so blatant it wouldn't be so bad. I downloaded PDFTK, tried to get it to open the Assembly Manuals, wants a password. I'm fairly computer literate, but looks like I'm going to have to get my computer progammer son to help me on this one. Edit: I was able to remove the passwords and then removed the watermarks. Now I'll reprint the pages of the Assembly Manuals that I already printed, so I'll be able to read them in the workshop. I prefer the printed versions in the workshop, don't want to grease up my tablet.
    1 point
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