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Tomahawk715

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Tomahawk715 last won the day on March 24 2014

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    72 Grande Coupe--302 C4
    73 Mach 1 351c/fmx
    70 Challenger 340 a66
    M38a1 M38 CJ2a Jeeps
    49 Jeepster
    79 Z28
    08 Mustang GT
    1961 Plymouth Belvedere
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  • Location
    Black River Michigan
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. I wouldn’t have even painted the car—lol
  2. Only been like 4 years since Ive been on here. Clearly been busy And I just picked up a 73 Mach 1 at a farm auction last week--wasn't expecting to see a car that day!
  3. We have shared the same pain then brother lol---it was a pita but I think its a much better result than trying to patch the rusted out parts. And a much longer lasting fix. I had thought about doing what you have done to the leaded seam. Ive not decided yet. I moved on to the next of many gaping holes that need attention.
  4. The napa ones seemed to be good steel--I broke one tooth the whole time. I had used the bit for a ton of cuts and it was finally getting dull. I was hogging on it pretty good and moving the drill itself around trying to get it to bite. When it broke thru the top layer the drill was at a slight angle and it caught the edge of the steel and snapped. Which is another tip for anyone using these--keep them at a 90 to the work surface and DO NOT move the drill around like you do when your trying to wallow out a hole. Oh and when you go to weld the sheet metal spot welds back together http://www.eastwood.com/plugweld-pliers.html I wouldnt do it without a pair of these. You can put some heat into it without worrying about drop out on the bottom side. Damn I really need to just do a write up on this lol--
  5. I walked out into the frozen pole barn---walked up to the car----touched the hood and thought I know its a heap but.........it will look like a streamlined butterfly
  6. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Strut-Tower-Spot-Weld-Cutter/_/R-NCP2786007_0380230883 The best Ive found was actually one from napa--the "blades" are double sided--just flips over. Ive used several different kinds and I like this one the best. The trick is to go slowwwww the slower the bit is turning the better. Just let the blades do their job. If you crank the rpms the blades just skate over the metal and get dull almost immediately. I also used a snap center punch--the type you push and it clicks. Keeps the napa style on course. I center punched every spot weld. If your unsure you can also give the center punch spot a quick turn with a small drill bit.
  7. Was clearing out some old photos and found these--figured I would add them quick as a help to someone doing this in the future. If I ever find time I will sit down with all the photos I took and do a write up. Anyway this gives a better understanding of how it goes on--oh and the last photo is installed on the car. These are only phone photos--others I took with camera
  8. Having just removed two coupe roofs (to swap one to other) id say 100 percent thats the roof seam. My 71 had all lead. The 72 only had lead at each edge and then bondo in the center Oh and i would add-- even my "good" roof had rust in this seam. It is not sealed from the back (sealer. Paint. Bahhh says Ford) so its an outstanding breeding spot for rust. From the inside of the car out. There is no access to that area so the best you can do is spray some paint or sealer up in there from behind if your not removing roof. I put a heavy coat of 3m weld thru primer between the two before the new roof went on.
  9. Once you have the top and sides "cut thru" try warming the bottom seal and working the windshield up then down---the bottom seal is the betch---if you work it up and down you can stretch the bottom seal enough to easeeee the top of the windshield out a bit at and actually get something down in there to start cutting the seal--then work it up and down more And by up and down I mean keeping it fairly flat and just inching it (sliding almost) up toward the top of the channel and then down the channel===
  10. I had the solenoid in my CJ7 do this--uses same setup--it would actually stay engaged with the key off. You had to jump out and hit it to get it to disengage. It was a brand new one too--replaced it and never had another issue. The solenoid is a relay with contacts that pass battery voltage/current to the starter motor. The 16 gauge wire closest to the battery cable activates the coil in the solenoid that pulls in the contacts when the ignition is in the "start" position. The solenoid mount is the ground to the body. If the "start" wire is grounding out, there would be insufficient current to activate the coil. Usually if the solenoid fails, the contacts won't connect because of pitting or a weak coil, or the contacts won't release because they weld together, however intermittant contact is possible if the return spring on the coil plunger is broken or weak. If that was it, you might be able to bang on the top of the solenoid with your hand and make it engage. Steve
  11. Title pretty much says it all Shoot me a pic and price I have alot of 66 parts to barter as well---some 71-73 stuff door glass and hardware maybe a decent door spare sports mirror etc Oh and I've got alot of VW stuff too--mostly pre 67 Some later
  12. http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/pts/2719675983.html Dont know if you saw this--I posted it over in the for sale section--Anyway doors were in pretty nice shape--thats about 2 and half hours from you. They are not mine. Or get with MotorCity mustangs on this site--If he has a good set he'd only be 35 min from you and hes a good guy
  13. I dont think you can go wrong with the 500s but totally disagree about the "too modern" thing. Craiger SS have been around since the 60's----when I was in high school your car wasnt worth a crap if you didnt have a set of CSS on them---Everyone wanted them and everyone remembers em. And isnt that part of classic cars draw really?? Taking you back to the things you remember from your youth--- To me they just scream classic muscle. With that all being said I've got a set like Cobra--Of course I picked them up cheap with tires so wasnt a hard choice--and Im not fond of chrome lol
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