TommyK

Welcome from Newtown!

https://www.cjponyparts.com/motor-mount-kit-mustang-429-460-1971-1973/p/MMK5/

Howdy stranger! Welcome back.

I'm using FPA mid-length headers. Had to ding one tube to get around power steering box.

I know on the early street avenger carbs the instructions indicated the see through sight plugs will cloud and discolor and are for temporary use and should be replaced.

I have been running a Saginaw pump with no cooler for a couple of years with no problems. Unless you are road racing or something I don't believe it's really necessary.

Which Coyote swap kit did you go with?

IIRC there are two different part numbers for the Blue Thunder 351C application. One is for the Pantera and one is for everything else. The difference is the angle of the carb pad.

Holley List R6291 is a 4160 style 600 cfm vac sec carb. Not OEM AFAIK.

As Hemikiller has already stated, the VIN tag is attached to the upper dash panel. The upper dash panel IS EASILY REMOVED WITH A FEW SCREWS. Just because the tag itself appears to have the original rivets does not mean that the dash panel itself has not been swapped for one from a different vehicle. You will need to remove the passenger side front fender and see if the partial VIN is stamped into the underlying sheet metal to try and determine what the correct VIN for the car is.

I believe Modern Driveline makes a retrofit clutch pedal that mounts to the automatic pedal box. Not sure if it is compatible with the factory z bar or if it is intended for a cable set up. Just another option to explore.

Given your description I'm afraid your only course of action is to pull the engine and tear it down. IMO something has catastrophically failed and you need to find out what it is. Sounds like a piston to me.

No personal experience but just looking at it the lines and electrical connector look to tall to fit under the trunk floor. There isn't a lot of room between the top of the tank and the trunk floor.

Get a mechanic's stethoscope and try to isolate the area the noise is coming from.

I have the exact same gauge. It takes at least a couple minutes of run time for the gauge to get some heat in it and start to read accurately. It will start lean and continue to indicate richer as the engine heats up and the fuel gets properly vaporized and combusted. To get truly accurate readings the engine should be fully heat soaked. Is the sensor in the header collector or in the exhaust pipe near the crossover? If near the crossover it could be seeing reversion air from exhaust pulses giving you a false lean reading.