TommyK

3/8"

Very nice! I am somewhat surprised at the 6300 HP peak with that short duration cam. Should be a lot of fun. Well done.

The electric choke should not have constant power. It needs a switched power source. Many people run power for the choke from the S terminal on the back of the alternator. You can also splice into a switched power source in the steering column wiring harness.

Didn't the Mexican 7173's have Windsors?

In my experience adjusting the idle mixture to achieve highest vacuum usually results in an idle mixture that is too lean. This may be why you are getting a stumble when goosing the throttle with the car idling in park. It could also be the accelerator pump cam and/or nozzle. Also on a 4 corner idle carb after some experimentation you may find the best idle mixture is achieved with the primary screws turned out more than the secondary ones. Carb tuning is about giving the engine what it wants to run best even if it doesn't conform exactly to what the latest magazine tuning article says. Put the screws where it idles best and continue tuning the other carb circuits. Spark plugs have the last word. Also, the air gap manifolds are great for power on modified engines but they can have some driveability issues. For a stock or nearly stock 2V a regular Eddy performer is a better match.

What list number Holley carb do you have? How many turns out are the idle mixture screws? What is the vacuum reading and rpm in gear (if auto)?

Like Chuck I am not a fan of precious metal plugs in the old iron. I would start by putting copper plugs back in. When you turn the idle mixture screws all the way in does the engine die? Big cam with low vacuum can often lead to over exposure of the t-slot giving you sooty plugs. If you don't have control of the idle mixture screws try cranking the initial timing up. If that raises the idle you can close the butterflies a little bit and readjust your mixture screws. If that gives you control of the mixture screws (dies when turned all the way in) then you need to sort the timing and then go back to the carb.

Drive it hard for a bunch more miles. IMO that's all idle/transition marking.

If your immediate goal is simply to get it running start by removing the spark plugs and determining if the engine will rotate by hand with a breaker bar on the balancer bolt. Use OZCoupe72's suggestion to put some lubricant down the cylinders first. If it does rotate I would pull the valve covers and see if all the valves are moving when the engine is rotated and that there are no obvious signs of valvetrain problems. If that all checks out good I would put a battery in it, disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the fuel pump and see if it will rotate with the starter and check for compression. If that goes well I would change the oil, clean the carb and see if I could start it on a gas can.

I have. It is a big deal only in the respect that you need to make a provision to return the vapors to the fuel tank. I would insulate the fuel line and use a phenolic spacer under the carb before resorting to the vapor separator filter. Those measures solve 90% of heat related fuel issues.

Nicely optioned car. Should be a lot of fun. Enjoy.

My understanding is the aftermarket 2 piece rear main seals are not be made to the proper dimensions. In essence, one or both halves of the seal are too long so when installed are not properly sealing. The solution I have read is to file each seal such that the end extends .010-.020 past the end of the block or cap when the other end is flush. Once this crush dimension has been set, you clock the seal have slightly from the parting line and install with a dab of silicone as usual. Or you can buy the Kaase "one piece" rear main seal.

Tommy, Did you utilize the spring in the front, or did you just discard that? I used it. The tension is adjustable.

I solved this problem by using an aftermarket throttle cable bracket that allows adjustment of the cable mounting point. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aed-6601bk

Does the QF carb have a choke on it? If it does that is the likely cause of the rich on start up condition. If it cleans up after it warms up and the transition slot exposure is correct putting holes in the butterflies isn't going to do anything for you.