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About 71fastback

  • Birthday 08/29/1967

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Mustang Sportsroof.


  • Location
    Littleton, CO.
  • Region

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  1. Hi everyone, Quick question...Did 71 Mustangs come with decorative (chrome, etc.) headlamp bezels? Mine just has the bracket that the headlamp attaches to. Just curious. Jason
  2. Can anyone tell me if a 71 302 2v came with a rev limiter? And, if so, what exactly does it do? Thanks, Jason
  3. J..you need to confirm that the wire is in fact NOT a resistance wire. H.E.I systems NEED a FULL 12 volts..It will work for a while but eventually burn out the module. ( Of course it's going to happen at the worst possible time) It's the same mistake the "PRO" who wired my friends pantera made ! Very easy to check if it is a resistance wire. Get a digital volt meter..(walmart cheap!) Pull the wire..connect to the positive of the volt meter, Put the negative of the voltmeter to a good known ground (battery negative) Turn the ignition on & take a reading Should be very close to 12 volts or higher. anything less than it's a resistance wire & you need to run a new wire to keyed 12 volts. That's what I figured Q. I'll check it with my meter and make the neccessary adjustments. It's been nagging me in the back of my mind since I installed the distributor but I never got around to it. Jason
  4. +1 on adjusting the accelerator pump. I had a similar problem and adjusting the acc. pump was the culprit.
  5. Hey everybody. I've been looking at the wiring diagram in my Chilton's manual and at the wiring diagrams that are on this website. I'm trying to figure out if the wire that use to go to my old coil is a resistance wire. The reason I'm trying to figure this out is because I changed out my distributer to an HEI distributer that has a built-in coil. I used the wire that went to my old coil to get 12v to the new distributor. The car seems to run fine but I wonder if I'm causing any harm to the new coil or perhaps losing some performance by using this wire. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks, Jason 1971 base model sportsroof with a 302
  6. Thanks for the advice guys. I'll give it a try.
  7. Hi All! Recently I cleaned the undercarriage and engine with some Engine Brite. After that, I developed an oil leak at the dipstick tube where it enters the engine. I fixed that easily enough by taking out the tube, removing the old, cracked O ring and running a small bead of high temp. RTV where the dipstick meets the engine. After that was cured, I developed another oil leak at the front passenger side corner of the oil pan. I could understand this because when I did my cam swap a while back, I had to lower the front of the oil pan and my gasket kit had two cheesy cork gasket pieces to put on the corners of the oil pan. Well, I used those gasket pieces with some high temp. RTV and they held for a while but now one is leaking. Anyway, I bought a nice rubber Felpro oil pan gasket and some more RTV and got busy taking the bolts off the oil pan (which, by the way, is some chrome after market pan). The pan may be a bit deeper than the stock pan because, when I do an oil change, It takes more than 5 quarts to fill it to the full line on the dipstick and this is after running the engine to fill the new oil filter. To make a long story short. I can't drop the oil pan down far enough to clear the crank and slide it out. I thought about taking the two horizontal bolts out of the motor mounts and then jacking up the front of the engine by putting a block of wood under the harmonic balancer. Does this sound like a bad idea to anyone? I'm only talking about jacking it up a little bit. Just enough to get the pan out. If anyone else out there has had this problem and came up with a simpler solution, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance, Jason
  8. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll give it a try.
  9. Hello to all, I've got a stupid question. What happens when the alternator craps the bed? I mean, what would the symptoms be if were going bad or just not working at all? Recently, I got underneath the Mustang and scraped as much of the 40 years worth of dirt and crust off the frame and block and anything else I could reach. After that, I took the air cleaner off. Covered the carb with tin foil, a plastic bag and put a big rubber band around it. I proceeded to spray Engine Brite all around underneath and around the top and sides of the engine. Scrubbed some really bad spots underneath. I waited the recommended 10-15 minutes and then sprayed the whole thing down with the hose. I waited a while and then started it up no problem and let it idle to dry out the engine. I've driven it around for the last couple of days and started to notice it running a little rough but not too bad. Today, I drove it around running errands and after I came out of Costco and tried to start it up, it wouldn't idle and died. Luckily, I got it going again and made it home but it died in the driveway. But now, It doesn't want to idle and just dies. Sometimes, I can get it to idle and if I rev it up a little, it will die again. I tried adjusting the carb but it still dies after reving it up a little. Any help would be appreciated. 302, Edelbrock four barrel carb, Performer intake manifold, HEI distributor.
  10. 1. Bright Blue Metallic 2. Wimbedon White 3. Bright Red with Black stripes.
  11. Did the 71 Mustang come with any kind of bezel surrounding the headlights? I don't have them on mine and I can't remember ever seeing them on other 71's. Was it only the 73's that had them? Thanks
  12. I lived just south of San Francisco for 31 years. You don't need a rental car if you are staying inside the city. My friends and I use to take BART into the city and we just walked every where. It is probably the most beautiful city I have ever been in (depending on the weather).
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