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cazsper

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Everything posted by cazsper

  1. Thanks for the reply. I'll check that this afternoon.. Mike Just took a look at the hoses.. apparently, they are attached to the heater core in reverse. I'll swap them around after the rain subsides and see if that helps.. thanks again.. Mike
  2. Thanks for the reply. I'll check that this afternoon.. Mike
  3. So- I have a '73 with a 4v 351c. I just got some cooling issues taken care of and now I want to tackle the heater. I have one hose that goes directly from the block to the heater core. The water pump actually has two ports but one is blocked off. And of course, the other port is connected to the other inlet/outlet of the heater core. Is this correct? After driving the upper radiator hose is too hot to hold but the heater hose is just warm. And when I turn on the heater or defroster, it's just ambient temperature.
  4. I'll check those items and will get back.. Thanks everyone.. Mike
  5. Cool.. Thanks. Is that more than the '94+ fans? I have been reading they are pretty good.. Any specific year I should look at?
  6. Cool.. Thanks. Is that more than the '94+ fans? I have been reading they are pretty good..
  7. Thanks.. I'll check out the sending unit/gauge and the radiator cap. Then I'll look at a better fan setup. I've always used oil coolers but right now I think it might just be a bandaid.
  8. As I explained to MotoArts- No recent engine work. I've always wondered about that fan setup and shroud. My '95 GT had a supercharged 393w making over 550rwhp and I just used the factory fan/shroud and a Fluidyne radiator. It only went over 195' if I was in the boost for a bit but would quickly return to 180-185'.
  9. Well, there were a number of issues that kept me from really driving the car (wiring, rebuilt the carb and trans, new power steering pump, etc..) so I haven't really driven the car, but when I did, it always seemed to run on the warm side. I just never drive it much. Just a few miles here/there. The t-stat is a Napa part but looks identical to the "factory" Cleveland part except it's a 180'. As for coolant, it's not losing any at all. I've always been curious about those fans. They aren't running in the wrong direction but the don't seem to pull as hard as the fan on my '95 Mustang GT. Is there a magic number (depth) that the fan shroud should be from the face of the radiator?
  10. I have some cooling issues on my '73 Mach-1 and I'm hoping someone can help me out. First of all, my car has a 4v Cleveland. It has a rough idle flat tappet (hydraulic) cam. It has dual points, Air Gap intake, and a 650cfm carb. The trans is a c-6 with 3.50 gears. The radiator is aluminum (looks pretty clean inside) it has a custom made aluminum fan shroud and 2x electric fans (single speed) that come on as soon as the key is on. I have replaced the thermostat already. When I removed the t-stat, I did feel that "disk" that sits right below the t-stat. This is a lot of info- but just in case it helps.. As soon as it warms up, it seems to stay at about 180-185' for about 5-6 miles on the freeway on an 80' day. After that, it starts to climb and will hit 220-230' within another 5-6 miles. Due to the cam, it idles at about 900rpm. I have run radiator flush twice and am using a 180' t-stat. I'm wondering if my fans/shroud aren't the issue.. Any suggestions? Thank you. Mike
  11. Thank you, like the power output of both. my only concern about the larger stup would be drivability.. Precisely why I am choosing the 460 HP one. I have heard the 550 HP run and it is pretty wild. Good to know. I'm that case, I may just stick with the cam I have in my 393w (232/240). Thanks..
  12. Thank you, like the power output of both. my only concern about the larger stup would be drivability..
  13. On my '68 coupe, I have a 393w making just shy of 500hp. With my TKO-500 I am using a fidanza flywheel and a dual Kevlar clutch from Modern Driveline. Now it's not cheap but it works great. Very smooth, easy pedal and no chatter at all.. I drive my car every day..
  14. Thank you.. I appreciate any help I can get. I'm purely using my current setup as a guide.
  15. Sorry.. I should have included that.. Yes, hydraulic roller. I was thinking something in the neighborhood of 236/244 @ .050 540/550-112'. I don't need to spin it more than 6000rpm due to valve float. Again, this is a daily driver..
  16. So, I filled out a camshaft request form from Comp Cams..(hydraulic roller) This will be for a 427w (dart block- 4" stroke/4.125" bore). The cam they recommended is 220/224 @ .050".? The cam they recommended for my 393w in my (daily driven) '68 is 232/240 @ .050". With an additional 34 cubic inches, I was just going to add 4' to my current cam (236/244 @ .050") and call it a day. Is this wrong? The car is a (daily driver) '73 Mach-1 with 3.50 gears, TKO-600 5-speed and 275/40-17's in the back. The motor is a 427w 10:1 compression AFR-205 (maybe 220's), edelbrock Air gap intake and I'm thinking a 750-Holley. Am I in the right direction? Thanks.. Mike I guess I need to clarify my question. If I like the " characteristics" of the cam in my 393w (totally streetable with a slight lope), would I get the same " characteristics" (RPM range and idle) by adding 4' to the existing cam for the larger motor?
  17. I have heard good things about the Hooker Comps. I really wanted to go with Sanderson but have read a lot of mixed reviews about their quality and customer service. But reading above, I'm certainly going to look into the FPA..
  18. To be honest, I personally wouldn't care. My '68 was an original J code. But I wanted a 9" rear w/ 4-wheel disk brakes , I wanted a 351w (stoker) when the motor went, and I wanted a TKO 5-speed. I do understand that mods may devalue the car to someone else, however the car is better to me, it handles and stops better than it ever did..and I also never buy a car with any intention of getting rid of it.. As for a GT-500 or something, I would even want one for that very reason. Id prefer ti make a better performing clone that I would actually drive..
  19. I am wondering if anyone has some 15-rnd mags for Glock-19 (compact 9mm) for trade. I have quite a few Beretta 92 (15- round 9mm mags). I would like to trade.. Thanks.. Mike
  20. Thank you. I actually already built a 411w for my '68. Big bore with the stroke of a 393 and a set of AFR's. I did a 232/240 hydraulic roller with 8.5:1 for a centrifugal supercharger.
  21. That's why I was happy to see a Cleveland block with a 9.5" deck hight. I thought a 427C would be awesome. I really like windsors (grew up with 5.0's). I may still go the Windsor route but it just seems a '73 Mach-1 should have a Cleveland motor..
  22. Lol.. I did see that. I was going to get one...but I didn't win the Powerball. I wonder if a huge Windsor (427-438) would be the answer for now. After all, I'm looking for an engine for a daily driver.
  23. That would be a nice block but $5000 is a bit much. ?
  24. Wow, I thought I was just looking at an aftermarket Cleveland block.. Like the Dart block for the Windsor..
  25. Oh.. Interesting. I was wondering if I would need a Windsor imtake due to the 9.5" deck.
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