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Everything posted by cazsper

  1. '73 (4v 351c) currently has two 12" electric fans (pullers) with a custom aluminum shroud (came with the car). Putting my hand behind them, they really don't seem to moving much air. On the freeway, my car seems to run at normal temp but when I'm driving around town is when the temp starts to climb (which tells me not enough airflow). I have been told to use a better set of fans and I have been tilde to scrap the electric fans and use a flex fan. My '95 GT had a stroked Windsor with a Vortech making over 550rwhp with just a Fluidyne radiator and he factory fan- and it never ran hot. Any suggestions? Mike
  2. Sounds great everyone. Thank you. I also appreciate the pics..
  3. My question is in two parts. First, what size exhaust should I use? Second, will the exhaust flow only as well as the smallest pipe (or muffler) will allow? My car is a '73 Mach-1 with 10:1, a cam, Air Gap intake and Super Comp headers. The original (when I bought it) 3 inch exhaust was all hacked up. When I had the exhaust done, I had it done with Magnaflow mufflers but they did 2 1/4" instead if 2 1/2 " like I had wanted. Then, they only did turn downs because they said the fuel line was too close to the drivers side (exhaust exit). I still want (I think) 2 1/2" dual exhaust. But if I do a 2 1/2" exhaust but only use. 2 1/4" tail pipes, wouldn't that basically make the whole exhaust flow like a 2 1/4" system? Thanks.. Mike
  4. Lol.. I was also checking out the Truglo tritium/fiber optics, but I've heard too many people complain about the fiber optics breaking or coming loose.
  5. Take a look at this article.. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1403-car-crafts-giant-efi-test/ Personally, I have purchased a 5.0L EFI harness, Accufab Throttle body and Pro-M MAF. I will have basically a 5.0L setup but everything will be upgraded for the motor. Anyone who can tune a 5.0L can tune this. It won't look as trick but i won't have to mess around with "will it work?"
  6. I am looking for a set if night sights for a glock-19 (compact 9mm). Not that the gun matters but so you understand the size.. Anyways, I am looking for a set of night sights for it. I am looking at a set of Trijicon as well as XS Big Dot sights.. I'm thinking a I would need something I can get on target quickly (5-25 feet) and that is visible in low light. Any suggestions? Anything I should stay away from?
  7. I just saw an ad for the (9.2" deck) Ford Racing Boss 351 block (for $2,200). Is this a standard Cleveland block or is it different?
  8. I have looked into them. It's just that I have read many conflicting reviews. If "they" aren't using factory manifolds, "they" seem to be using long tubes. I think I should now look at either the Hooker Comps (not super comps) and Ford Powertrain.
  9. I have a set of Hedman mid length on my '68 but they are for a Windsor. Wish they made them for the 4v Cleveland.
  10. Thank you.. I have no problem paying for quality. It's just I have a set of long tubes and they are so close to the ground, it's ridiculous. They are the Hooker Super Comps.
  11. I'm not saying shorties are bad. Sorry for the misunderstanding. I have read that the Sanderson headers have conflicting reviews (they leak/they don't leak, coating flakes off, etc...) . I have used Hedman shorties on my '95 GT and they were great. I'm looking for a pair of quality ceramic coated shorties for my 351c 4v..
  12. I am looking for a quality shorty header fit my '73 with a 4v 351c. I was looking at Sanderson but have read so many conflicting reviews. Does anyone run shorties?
  13. If I am planning to upgrade to EFI, all aftermarket gauges, and a complete stereo system would you recommend going with a modern aftermarket harness (such as Painless or American Autowire)?
  14. If you look at American Racing, they offer the vintage wheels in modern sizes. They look sharp, match the style of the car and allow for decent size brakes..
  15. Not my favorite. Not a bad design but a little too dark for my personal taste. The wheel blends into the tire. I prefer a bit more contrast. But I also prefer a Torque Thrust-D and an Ansen Slotted wheel.
  16. So the 275/35-17's give me a 24.57" tire. From that, how can I calculate what speedo gear I need for the c6?
  17. Thanks.. I'll confirm my speedo and see how it goes. Now I have to figure out what speedo gear I need.. ?
  18. How can I tell what my gear ratio is? When I purchased the car, the previous owner told me it had 373's. All I know is that in the freeway, I'm between 3500-4000rpm. I have a C6 auto with 275/35-17 in the rear. I'm thinking of going with either 3:25's or 3:50. I just want toake sure I don't already have 3.50's. The previous owner also told me it had a 750 Holley with 2.5" exhaust and it ended up being a 650 with 2.25" exhaust. So I can't just take his word for the gears..
  19. Pretty much. That's what I did. By the time I was done, I was able to swap to 4-wheel disk Bear brakes, currie 9 inch, full suspension, TKO-600 swap (from a c4) and a 393w with AFR heads and an Air gap intake. It can be done..
  20. It's more than likely at the flywheel.. It's still pretty impressive. I'm wondering at what RPM range.. I would personally like a motor that made less power overall but more at low-mid RPM. Just me. That sounds like a pretty good price.. Having a nice car is like having a stuck up girlfriend. They either cost you a lot to get or to keep...if not both. But if the body of your car starts to look a little shabby, it won't get offended if you have a little work done to it. Anyway, you can always do what I did. Figure out what you want when it's done, make a lots if those parts, but them as you can afford them and pile them up till you have everything you need.
  21. 350 hp out of a 302 makes me think you will have to wind it up a bit to get that power. Possibly not great low end. I honestly don't know.. If it's just heads cam and intake, I would also compare the cost of a set of AFR heads, that intake (probably a rpm or air gap) and whatever cam you're interested in. I'm thinking you won't be too off from the Edelbrock kit price and the AFR heads are better. A little story- I had a 393w in my '95 mustang GT with Edelbrock heads. Way under cammed so it would pass emissions in California. Anyway, on the dyno, it didn't make the power I had expected. Also, the Edelbrock heads were milled for higher compression (about 10:1 I believe). I was so pissed, I went out and got a set of AFR-185's (also considered a bit on the small side for a 393w. By changing nothing except the heads ( and on the same dyno) it gained over 40 hp to the wheels. Also, the AFR heads were not milled so ended up losing compression. I'm not saying AFR is the best (There's a lot of heads out there). Not am I saying Edelbrocks suck. I just know for me, AFR's worked out better for my street driven engines.
  22. Sorry for bringing up an older post (I tend to do that). I am curious as to how well this would work with a 460 bb.
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